Davegolf

At last someone speaking sense ?

As before there’s loads of different mounting designs so until you have one it’s impossible to say. Some may need an adapter ring, some might not, some might need extra ring shims or some material removing for clearance

There’s so many variations most things will fit with a little ingenuity. Unless it’s a dedicated product expect to have to do some minor modding.

You have to take the rail off to remove the hop unit etc. Buy a normal M4A1 or CQBR and get a MK18 kit for it.

BB feed tubes etc should be bone dry. If you live in a humid place is it possible your BBs have swollen? Load up a mag and manually ping them out with a plastic barrel unblocking rod, does the magazine follower keep pusshing up ok?

Not your BBs is it? I never had that issue with the 85 mags

Always time for lube ?

The Modify bucking is quite tight and made of higher friction material than the TM one, so if everything is bone dry it can stress the nozzle return spring. The 150% springs work fine, if not the same, they just pull out a little prematurely ? or not in your case. Before changine anything though make sure its functioning properly 'as standard'. Is the inside of the bucking worn where the nozzle mates? Is the bucking swollen at all making it even tighter fitting? Is the bucking properly seated into the hop unit?

Are you using gas with suspended oil or dry propane etc?

Can we see the whole gun

This is a good barrel for the money https://www.socomtactical.net/prometheus-370mm-m4a1-mws-6-03mm-barrel/ PS you are not getting any more range or accuracy from a barrel once you exceed 300mm, only FPS increase

It is strange how people are around differing products, activities and interests with regard to friendliness and help!

?

Using a spare fire selector you can modify it to be semi auto only. You can also modify the stock floating valve and make you own npas, covered 20ish pages back i think. You can adjsut power with all available gasses on a standard MWS from sub 300 to 360

Do you know what gas and at what temperature this happened?

Supergrade!!! Nice ?

Yeh the trigger boxes are normally pretty slick, and have a less gritty takeup and faster/crisper reset once deburred, profiled and fine wet/dry

No i havnt, where have you heard this? do you have a link?

@TadsJ2 can you expand, explain, what product you are talking about? Theres quite a few buffer products out there! Nice bit of kit for sure! Worth noting that what you experienced from the old trigger unit is generally resolved by a good clean out and deburr. The dead trigger is caused by excess friction from parts that have marred over. I actually find the old/worn trigger units once sorted out are better than new ones!

@HorribleSkrub are you sure the dial is moving / have you counted it’s position?

The nozzle return spring only breaks through fatigue from extended use, it’s not a necessary upgrade, just a spare to carry. Only needed to be a genuine one or E6 150% one ?

If you want to be sure, yes strip clean, inspect and re greae all the o rings / seals, check for any obstructions/swarf, check the force required to push the output valves.

Difference in your output valves, damaged/worn gas route seal, actually different internally?

I think he’s just trying to make it look like the MP5K in RS with no compensator threads. How you doing anyway Ron ?

I agree with what you’re saying @Cyberlawyer but even fully fettled they are not a patch on the TM. Its the size of the TM that’s irritating.