MrTea
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Posts posted by MrTea
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Krytac LVOA-C. Used in 3/4 outdoors games. Comes in original box and is fitted with;
- Standard iron sights
- Standard stock changed to Magpul CTR style stock
- Prometheus 6.03mm tight-bore inner barrel
- Prometheus metal wide-use hop unit
- Maple leaf Macaron Yellow bucking
- Maple leaf Omega nub
- Magpul style RIS QD sling mount
Cosmetically there's some scuffing on top RIS rail where I was mounting/removing optics (see pictures). Selling due to not getting used any more as I prefer using my DMR outdoors and have other AEGs if I wanted to use one so this is surplus to requirements.
Not sure what to list it for.
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If you want in-ear protection; i've used the Earmor M20. They work, don't cause your ears/side of the head to get hot but at the same time, you can still got shot in the ear which sucks. Can pick these ones up on ebay for about £40 new.
If you want over-ear, i've used the Earmor M31. Again, they work. They protect your ears but your head/ears tends to get hot.
As a note for both Earmor offerings; they don't go completely silent when they detect loud noises. The best way I can describe is that they cut out all of the top end so you can hear the 'loud' noise but at a safe volume level. In comparison, I have an unbranded headset (comtac knock offs) that cut all sound completely (depending on how loud it is) and fades sound back in afterwards. -
On 28/12/2023 at 21:55, Cannonfodder said:
Having posted that I'll upgrade to a PS4 if the reboot of Hogs of War happens
I see you fellow man of culture! I've bought one of those retro emulation console devices so I can play old stuff like this. -
19 minutes ago, DaktariT said:
Getting the feeling that I should just stick to the single player offline
I played it offline the whole way through and it was a quality time because I wasn't taken out of my immersion by other people.21 minutes ago, DaktariT said:but the sods make it so you have to pay for the online services for the updates (I'm that much of a fossil I maybe mistaken).
On console, this wouldn't surprise me at all. -
2 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:
As long as it doesn't have any metal brushes/other components, dont want to be scratching the barrel/tearing at the hop unit.
I did always keep a plastic rod i got with the mg42 in the kit bag with a few strips of cutup microfibre which is handy for when you forget to clean the barrel ahead of time.
It has a few bronze bristles but not a lot. That section of the bore snake seems narrower than the rest of the snake too. I've mainly used it on my MP5 which has a stainless barrel and i've never noticed any degredation in performance if it was damaging the inner barrel.
If you really want something like this without brushes at all, you can get something called a 'bore-whip' or trying pulling out as many of the brushes as possible. -
1 minute ago, DaktariT said:
The graphics are getting better but to me the games aren't getting better, I think the industry is getting stuck in a rut.
Baldurs Gate 3. What i'd consider an almost perfect game. Demolished the competition at The Game Awards resulting a lot of seething from Spiderman fans. -
18 hours ago, BigStew said:
long cleaning rod
As an alternative to this for actually cleaning the barrel, I use a 5.56/.223 bore snake (also known as a pull through). Tight enough that it cleans the entire inner barrel in one pass and doesn't need loads of force to pull it through.
Only tools I take are allen keys, screwdriver set and the bore snake just incase the inner barrel gets dirty/fouled. If I can't fix my issues with these alone, then I have a backup for a reason. -
If you're looking for smaller unit purchases (though more often) i've never had an issue using 0.25g tracers from Rebel Precision alongside Tippmann 0.28g bio tracers. I've not used both companies non-tracer BBs but can't imagine the quality/performance is much different from their tracers. For outdoor/regular BBs I use just about anything (never had jamming issues) but my current stock are BLS for 0.28g upwards which I use exclusively for outdoors.
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King Arms mid-caps work perfectly fine in my CYMA P90 so I can't see why they wouldn't in a Krytac one. P90 high caps are a bad idea. To wind them up you need to remove them from the gun, wind them up and re-insert after... go for the box of 5 mid-caps on fire-support for £62 plus mid-caps don't rattle like a maraca.
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On my MP5, before I was doing my own tech work, I had a tech fit the cheapest mosfet they had (Gate Pico SSR3 - £15) just so I could run 11.1v LiPo safely. It has exactly zero features of the pricier MOSFETs and i've never had an issue with it to be honest. Having 13:1 gears and a HT motor means the trigger response is great anyway and i'd probably not gain a lot from going to a AB++ or a Hybrid.
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Interested in a 260mm for the P90. Very interested to see how these perform.
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3 hours ago, RostokMcSpoons said: }
Whew that's a nice looking gun! -
1 hour ago, Yashy said:
asked a local they said they aint got nothing.
Could you link me any recommendations?
Is there anything I could work on? and something i can just open up?
My main gun is a SA-H22 and I DO NOT want to open that up!
Are you looking for a working gun (regardless of gearbox type) to pull apart and see how it works? I've got a CYMA CM.028A AK just sat in the corner doing nothing. It was boneyard as the previous owner snapped a screw hole which i've repaired with an original part. It works but sucks ass IMO because of the creaky cheap plastic. -
2 hours ago, RostokMcSpoons said:
I have no room for that sadly, my spare guns stay in the loft ?
I ought to thin out my collection somewhat, but that's not going so well ?
Congrats on buying the SIG btw, I would have been sorely tempted by that (too?!?) if I didn't already have a JG version that I bought as a boneyard from AH, and which is now working pretty well
LOL. I was looking at the RIF you bought too thinking "damn, for £100, should I???" but then realised AH boneyard sells quick and finished my checkout. By the time I came back you must have snagged it! I was interested in the WE glock too but just couldn't justify it atm. -
If you don't like how it feels or handles, just wall hanger it?
I managed to snag the ICS Sig552. Now I need to find mid-caps for it.
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Did you change the bucking or barrel? Try going back to the stock bucking first. I've had bucking cause this exact issue when building my DMR. If the stock bucking is producing the same variation, change back to the stock barrel and try again.
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23 minutes ago, Joe142 said:
It’s one of my fav camos at the min ?
Where'd you get that top if I may?
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1 hour ago, Cannonfodder said:
They're definitely fun in CQB I know what you mean about them either being underpowered or you need arms like Arnie. If you want to run a shotgun as a primary then definitely go with gas. Yes they're a bit more expensive but they're so much more fun
For the sake of ~£50/£60 I might experiment with this just to see if it's viable to get a 'good' spring shotgun on a budget.
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1 hour ago, Impulse said:
As much as I love shotguns, and I feel everyone should own at least one
I think shotguns would be a fun alternative to an AEG in CQB (not as a first RIF obviously) but the performance is what puts me off despite them being <£100. Can you do much (or anything) to spring shotguns to make them reach the higher end of UK limits? My understanding is their FPS is usually around 250fps and (on spring pump actions) and if you install stronger springs it makes the pump action really difficult from i've read. Most tri-shot shotguns are all fixed hop too right so are picky with what BB weight they'll use though I suspect some DIY could resolve this.
At some point I'd love one of the APS shell ejecting shotguns but they're expensive
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Warrior Pathfinder chest rig. 4x M4 mags, 2 utility pouches and molle space that fits another 2x M4 pouches or whatever you need.
I've also used a Haley Strategic DC3R-X knock offs. 4x M4 mags, 4x pistol/40mm grenade pouches, 2x utility pouches.Currently having to figure out a different load-carrying style because P90 mags are looooong and will not work in my chest rigs.
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Have you solved the issue of your tester rounds leaving behind the residue I told you about marring the floor of my local indoor arena? I'm almost out of the magflash rounds I bought and I'd love to get some more.
The "large" flashbang tend to work the best when I bought some. -
6 hours ago, The_Lord_Poncho said:
A common issue with the Macaron rubbers I hear. I've certainly experienced it too. I can't say for certain, but i believe that the later 'super macaron' rubbers - the ones with the wavy lines/ribs around the outside rather than the earlier straight ribs - do not suffer from the same problem. Unfortunately they are somewhat harder to find for a good price, I'm reckoning that retailers bought up a large stock of the earlier rubbers and are still drawing down on that stock before they re-stock with the super macaron.
Only ever had it happen to me on the A&K Masada DMR that I've been building. A&K being a Chinese company appear to use different specs where ML rubbers don't work well. It never caused feeding issues just wildly inconsistent FPS; about 50-60fps difference across 10-20 shots.
After all that of me acting like a smart-ass thinking i'd fixed it, the issue returned when I went to show it off. I grabbed my other P90 that's in a storage bag (which just so happens to be stock) and watched the nozzle as I fired it. That nozzle never stopped in the feed tube/port/window once in semi-auto where the CYMA P90 would regularly be visible, as can be seen in previous pics. Knowing that it's an SHS part the previous owner has installed, I had ordered a 20.75mm and 20.7mm nozzle so I tried that next and went straight to the 20.7mm nozzle knowing the SHS nozzle was 20.8mm.
Took a full mag and fired it in full auto with no miss feeding. I'm hoping, praying, that I might have gotten to the bottom of it. Across 15 shots in semi the FPS is consistent at just over 300fps on 0.2g BBs with less than 4fps difference between highest and lowest reading which is surprising because the compression parts feel pretty poor and it's still using a plastic piston rack. I'll have a dig around for an M100 spring to get it closer to the limit and i'll re-try using the ML Macaron rubber to see if it still causes the feed issue.
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On 11/11/2023 at 19:49, Pseudotectonic said:
new tappet plate - is it sliding without friction?
sometimes new tappet plates don't slide well, might be too thick etc
As an interesting bit of info. I was picking peoples brains in different places and someone suggested just trying different hop rubbers before you rip open the gearbox again. I went back and grabbed the standard hop rubber and a prommy purple in addition to the ML Macaron already in place.
It looks like with the ML Macaron, the feed lips are a tad too long and are protruding into the feed 'channel' enough to cause feeding issues. The first pic is basically how both the stock rubber and prommy purple rubber look, they're almost impossible to see as the lips are a tad shorter than the ML ones.
I tested it by firing half a mag in semi auto (which worked fine) and then half a mag in full auto. The full auto struggled to keep up just because the gun is cycling that fast but never stopped feeding where I had to fire in semi or a small burst to get it to feed again. I could probably remedy this by using a .1mm or .2mm shorter nozzle while not preventing a proper airseal from being formed. Something to test going forward. Just got to get this into a skirmish and see how it performs.It's annoying I ran into this issue again and didn't think about it sooner. Had literally this exact thing happen when building my DMR.
Specna Arms Core feeding issues
in Electric Guns
Posted
Strange. I used a Specna Arms core-04 with the standard 's-mag' mid caps, Nuprol n-mag mid caps and Battleaxe mid caps and never had an issue. Like Colin said, try holding the mag in a couple of different positions and see what works, you can then either use velcro or even layers of electrical tape on the magazine so it always goes into the position it feeds best in.