The_Lord_Poncho

No experience with the CTM, so I can't answer the first part of your question. But re. your second - rotate the holster to your preferred angle and then fully tighten the centre screw (good idea to use loctite - blue- but I've never needed to). Don't leave it slightly loose otherwise it will be spinning around in no time like some kind of weaponised comedy bow tie.

To be fair, I used to exclusively use an MP5 or DE UTR smg on indoor CQB, but even then found the length of those restrictive. These days i almost exclusively use a pistol indoors - enabling getting onto target around door frames/walls etc much quicker whilst presenting less of the body for the enemy to target. And supremely satisfying at the same time!

Mixed morning at Driver Wood this past Saturday. I opted to play the first game with the L96 bolt action and upgraded Mk23. Had some great success - achieving around 7 or 8 'eliminations' in equal part with each of the Mk23 and the sniper - whilst only being taken out myself 4 times. Quite pleased with that ratio, and the newly opened up/cleared area of the site really lent itself to the longer range guns. My el-cheapo chinese leaf suit really came into its own - i only wear the jacket, and have modified it by sewing on patches of hessian threads to augment the nylon lines of fake leaves. For something so lightweight and cheap, it remains super effective whilst being breathable and non-snagging enough for a more active/mobile style of play. DTD holster riding on a padded molle belt was great for the MK23, but i need to rethink my storage for the rifle mags - they were a pain to get in and out of the little zip up pouch i had squeezed them into. Second game, i opted to bring ditch the leaf suit and rely on the rather effective Partizan/SS Leto camo suit and run the Cyma M14. Unfortunately it seems to be suffering a bit of an intermittent wiring fault, so cue some rather comical moments when i should have got the drop on handfulls of enemy players only for the rifle to refuse to fire, with inevitable consequences. I also tried running .28 bbs in it for the first time (not bringing any .25s to the site with me), and it was stubbornly refusing to lift them. A bit of a strip down, re-wire, and a upgrade with a macaron is in store i think! Might also try to pop in a ZCI tightbore at the same time to make use of the 20fps headroom that i have before hitting the 350fps site limit....

Yep - i think actually, the current batch have been reinforced following feedback, so you are probably ok. I keep on meaning to put some velcro and a patch on the back of mine to reinforce it, but never got round to it. Just take care when using the supplied punch to make the hole at the top of the goggles - that you both get it in the right location (i tried to get it as close to the lens as i could for comfort), and that you don't scratch the lense. Masking tape to protect the lens and a wooden block under the rubber goggle surround to elevate it/give a firm surface against which to hammer the punch through worked for me.

Mines been great actually. In actual fact, that type of goggle (Pyramex are the OEM) do amazingly well on their own for fogging, but the Novritsch antifog thingy has worked superbly for e.g. CQB, and the magnetic interface between the goggle insert and the tubes works really well.

I'm thinking an oldskool M16A1 would look great with the plastic furniture clad in that wrap as well.... In actual fact i spotted what looked like an A1 with wooden furniture in an episode of 'The Continental' on amazon a week or so back (cracking viewing if you haven't seen it yet).

Nice work - i'd love to progress to where i can design my own files for 3D printing. At the moment I use a simple circular end cap with a lip from an existing 3d file, and just scale it up and down to fit the various pre-cut perspex discs you can get off ebay - and the various scopes, sights, and torches that i use.

Well, looks like you have done a great job! I'm now scouring the usual suspects for stock - so far come up blank!

As a bit of an aside - apologies - that's a lovely looking gat. Do you mind me asking what particular model is it (looks somewhat different proportions to my hastily googled 'JG G3' hits!), and is that real wood or some form of wood effect wrap/plastic?

That's a great shame - obviously only one perspective, but the bloke sounds a bit of a knob. I look forward to the reincarnation, hopefully it will continue to stock some of the bulldog stuff, as their combats are some of the best fitting for my long legs that i've found!

A good evening game at Driver wood last night - £15 for 4 hours of quite closely packed game play which i thought was very reasonable. We used one of the paintball fields, so more open terrain, small buildings and towers and artificial cover interspersed with trees. A good choice, as the dense packed undergrowth of the rest of the site would have led to boring and uneventful game play, as well as a significant amount of blue on blue. Aside for one particular game where flashing pucks needed to be collected from around the field by our team - and where the opposing team hadn't heard the Marshalls whistle to start the game (!) culminating in them leaving their spawn 5 minutes in, it went off smoothly. It was nice that there was some flood lighting dotted around the field, randomly changing colour every now and then to add spice. Still plenty of dark corners to hide in, but it was just enough so that players weren't forced into the tedious dilemma of using a torch to try to spot the enemy whilst simultaneously giving away your position. At least, not all of the time. The games were chosen to work well on the field, and meant that it was generally fairly predictable which rough areas of the field the friendlies and the enemy were in, reducing the annoyance of constant blue on blue. Reaffirmed my view that tracer units - whilst undeniably fun - have more negatives than positives in the dark, literally highlighting your location to all around. A decently dialled in red dot did me proud last night, atop my L119a1ish. Oh, and, following on from the (rather accurate) posts earlier in this thread about the green team always winning - nice to see the Orange team winning each game last night!

Ah yes, now you mention it, I think i saw the brass plaque on the Zil, commemorating that event!

Ah, I'm with you now. That will be interesting. I don't think I ever really saw that truck being used for cover.

Which is exactly what the UK Scout Assn has done - so yes! Or, this forum could buy a 'crowd funded' licence to be used by all of its members. But, I completely agree - stick to allocated or PMR frequencies, and from a practical perspective, nothing will happen.

Like yourselves, I rather like the dense foliage. However, I'm rather confident that, unless there is a low pass from a B52 spraying Agent Orange, the sheer amount of rhododendron there will mean that there will still be more than adequate opportunities a for sneaky play and flanking. After playing there rather a lot over the past few years, I'm actually quite looking forward to a little change! Where has the new bus been plonked?

Thanks Piman. To be fair, I hadn't even considered the bucking - I'm not sure why not (its my first thought for feeding issues in an AEG). The bucking I'm using is by Unicorn Airsoft - it came packaged with the unicorn inner barrel. Looking it up online, seems like the bucking is a 60 degree. The nozzle is the original stock AAP one. Whilst the Unicorn Bucking seems reasonably well regarded, perhaps ought to swap it for a Maple Leaf and see if that makes a difference to the feeding....

Cracking choice. Any plans to do a bit of work on it? Classic choice would be a slightly longer inner barrel, hadron designs TDC, I/H plate, and a chopped down suppressor. All somewhat unnecessary of course (especially as you've gone for the excellent TM original), but fun to tinker...!

What time do the Wednesday evening games finish up? I work down that direction occasionally, so quite tempted to give them a try...

I managed to do a little more testing yesterday. Conclusions: - WE mags producing around 80-FPS higher than Army Armament mags and the original Action Army mag that came with the AAP. - The Vorsk .32 bb's don't seem to feed as well as alternatives (ASG blaster .25) - Mags generally aren't feeding when filled to capacity. 75% filled mags are feeding better. any thoughts?

Mine certainly was - quick change spring to tweak the power to the right limits (useful for an SMG that is switching regularly between woodland and CQB), and the damn thing is ultra solid (heavy). I might be tempted to pop a new rubber in there at some point, but that's just for something to do, rather than necessity.

Buy your Double Eagle Noveske before you do (!) so you have a spare to lend him just in case it doesn't go to plan!

Last time i played, there was a new chap, with rental gear. I usually encourage them to tag along and actually quite enjoy random ad-hoc pairings on the field, but this guy was a little different - really crashing around, and insisting on shouting despite the enemy being rather close and us being somewhat behind their forward line. After quite a few unsuccessful attempts by me and another guy with us to quieten him down, I'm appalled to admit that we encouraged him to pursue 'a flanking manoeuvre' into an enemy base to get predictably lit up.... Well, it's all a learning process!

2-3 times per month for me - at least 1 woodland weekend morning, and at least one Wednesday evening CQB. The weekday evening games are easier to get a 'pass' for, but not quite as enjoyable - at least from me! I'm lucky to live only 15 minutes or so from the place I generally play at, so as I only play mornings at the weekend, i can be back home by 12:20ish, thus not eating into too much family time.

If you are going to the trouble/expense of upgrading the barrel and hop unit, then yes, it would seem to make sense to put in a quality bucking. I personally use Maple Leaf (look up the pro's and cons of decepticon vs autobot and silicone vs rubber), and ensure that you choose the correct hardness (expressed as 'degree') - 50 degree would probably be optimal for a pistol. I hear that Flamingo buckings are also highly rated, but I've never used them myself.