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JinxDuh

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Everything posted by JinxDuh

  1. I cleaned up the gearbox, reinstalled all the inside parts and made sure it all lined up etc, replaced the motor with a new one, replaced the hop with a standard rubber/nub and it fires fine now. It chrono’d at 315 (On average) however there’s no safety and it’s on full auto as neither switches can be salvaged to work. I would say it’s in better condition overall, however without a safety and selector it’s essentially useless. My local shop had a Cybergun Thompson (Cyma spec I believe) which I purchased for a good price of £125 and most of the wooden parts from the ares fits it (Minus the stock) so I do at least still have a Thompson. I didn’t contact the seller further as I was rather upset and didn’t want to make matters worse or be rude towards him, however I just want to make people aware of the issues I’ve had. It seems I’m the second person, as his other negative feedback is from a guy who bought another WW2 replica that was leaking gas on most mags (Sold as gas tight) and also had screws missing.
  2. It was titled as “Ares Thompson M1A1 EBB”, however the EBB had been disabled (Not an issue as I would have disabled it anyway but it wasn’t listed as disabled) He mentions it’s been used for reenacting and airsoft, and is battle worn. Cool, not an issue and was actually one of the selling points for me. He mentions it shoots at 335 fps, has a Zci inner barrel (it does), a maple leaf 60 degree rubber (It did, but the rubber was torn up - Discovered this the day after purchasing when I went to chrono it and 3 mags wouldn’t feed (edit: I only tried 3 mags) I messaged him mentioning this, he said he tested it on the Monday and it was all working fine.), and an omega nub (It did not, it actually had no nub at all.) The advert also said it came with only a few high cap magazines however the majority of them were high caps. The only fault he mentioned was the selectors was loose (Via private message.), no mention of half the screws missing, no mention of the wood furniture handguard being super glued in place because he dethreaded the part that holds it on, no mention of the major screws that hold important parts on (I.E the handguard, the pistol grip) being stripped of thread, no mention of the motor installed failing and almost burnt out, no mention of the selector axis being super glued in place (You have to unscrew these to access the gearbox) It was to my understanding that the replica was in working order, minus the wobbly selectors - when I initially received it I put a battery on and pulled the trigger. It went bang like intended so I thought “Cool, it works” but I don’t have the means to fire bb’s where I live so couldn’t test it until the next day - which is where it all went wrong.
  3. No, Goods and services! I stuck with it as initially it seemed like just a hop up issue, which is an easy fix. It wasn’t until I had the upper off to get the hop up out that I started seeing the metal shavings everywhere and traces of superglue etc. I have had to “modify” it to get it apart to fix the issues, so it’s no longer in the condition that I received it in, and can’t be returned to said condition.
  4. Bought an ares Thompson a few days ago from on here and sadly it’s nowhere near what was described. I’ve spent the past 2 days trying to salvage my £285 investment but it’s not going to happen. It will be sold as parts/boneyard, included is: A (from what I can tell) steel upper/lower receiver that’s been artificially weathered by the previous owner. The Thompson gearbox which works alright now it’s been opened and had the metal shavings removed. 😬 The ares hop chamber with no inner barrel or hop rubber as both was damaged when I received the replica. The motor cage screw has been stripped for the pistol grip screw by the previous owner and has a tiny bit of thread left that does lock on but it’s not great. The gearbox itself, as mentioned above is now okay however the previous owner superglued the fire/safe selector axis in place with the screw. I had to drill the screw out to get the gearbox out to fix the issues it had. As it was drilled out, the axis bar is no longer in a useable condition and the selector switch only just bites onto it via the grub screw however the safety/fire does still work if you manually twist the axis bar. The electric blowback has been disabled poorly by the previous owner and will take some work to get up and running again, possibly modification to a new piston. When I purchased the replica, most of the screws were missing. I’ve added a few of the important ones but worth mentioning. There is also 7 (If I remember correctly) high cap Thompson mags that will be going with the “replica”. The outer barrel assembly, wood pistol grip & stock will not be included however I may be able to provide the faux wood from the Cyma I purchased to replace the ares. Obviously I won’t be able to get back the £285 I got burned for but I would like to recover something at least, but I’m not really sure what it would be worth as a boneyard bundle. I will upload images of said items as soon as possible. Any help is massively appreciated!
  5. Nah m8 kustom painted i know what i got no low balls mags fine just doesnt work
  6. No, the old motor is just, well… old. You can see the copper inside starting to oxidise and as it’s working it’s spitting out the dust. New motor is fine
  7. Anybody with a Cyma m1a1 Thompson able to confirm if the “lower” receiver is plastic or metal?
    Looking at options because the proprietary ares selector axis is impossible to replace, so looks like my recent purchase may turn in to an expensive wall hanger… 😬

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. JinxDuh

      JinxDuh

      It’s a simple design in theory, so possibly! Thanks for confirming though guys

    3. JinxDuh

      JinxDuh

      Same question but for the snow wolf Thompson, if anybody knows?

       

      Edit: Snow wolf also is a polymer lower

       

      🤢

    4. JinxDuh

      JinxDuh

      Had to settle for a plastic lower version (Cyma), the Thompson I bought on here for nearly £300 is nothing more than a paper weight. Half of it is super glued together, feel like a right c word 😒

       

      Hopefully the Cyma one is better 😂

  8. If you’re just getting into the hobby, my advice as disheartening as it is, is simply - don’t. The maintenance and upkeep, as well as the cost of magazines, the limited ammo, the weather, the type of gas and play style differences are massive factors. Based on your budget, you’re already setting your sights low. However, I think one of the most forgiving and easier GBBR’s to get started with is a WE G36. Cheap, reliable, and mags are robust. Alternatively look through classifieds and see if you find anything that’s within budget.
  9. The blue dust motor was a black no brand one that came with the random AK parts I got from on here a while back. The new motor was out of a Cyma and works fine!
  10. I stuck the motor into my AK, blue dust appeared so the culprit is the old motor. Sadly there’s a screw that’s been glued so had to cut and drill to even get the gearbox out so progress is halted until I can fix the broken piece. Rather disappointed I’ve had to carry out repairs on a gun that was sold as fully working but such is the way of life 😂
  11. Nothing in the gearbox, so I’m assuming it’s the motor. Possibly copper wires corroded/corroding
  12. Having to drill out one of the screws as it was fully rounded off, to then be able to get the gearbox out. Only time will tell what the mysterious blue powder is! Probably for the best anyway as the pew is missing nearly every screw anyway 🥴 That makes sense actually, possibly the brass piston!
  13. Very pale blue, mixed with metal shavings I’ll put it back together and get it firing again to get “fresh” blue powder And a better example of the colour
  14. The sounds look so pretty 😍
  15. Hey guys. Bought a pre owned replica from here a few days ago, changed out the motor as the one it came with was on its last legs and wasn’t cycling properly. Testing it with the pistol grip off, as it cycles a fine blue powdery dust is coming out. It’s an Ares Thompson, and I can’t work out how to get the gearbox out to disassemble it but there was a lot of metal shavings around the gearbox too which is worrying. Any ideas what this mysterious blue powder could be?
  16. Now he’s giving away the chance to win a Glock, only £20 a pop! Definitely not a scam
  17. The $5 spring pistol isn't good?
  18. It’s a springer. The slide tends to open up when pulled back due to the sheer super high quality of the Chinese makers. To be honest, count your losses and bin it. Get something decent that isn’t a springer if you can.
  19. Anything WE, Kyairsoft is the place to go. RA-Tech has a lot of hype however there’s a lot of horror stories of bad QC, tolerance differences messing up. Personally I haven’t bought any RA-Tech parts based on the poor feedback I’ve seen though. In terms of longevity, my WE G36 is my most used GBBR being fielded pretty much all summer for the past few summers and the internals are all holding up well!
  20. My local charges £40 for the box to be opened, any work inside said box carried out, a generalised service and reassemble/test. Parts are down to the person to provide, which is fair enough. Other services like hop up changing etc is £10 - £20. Most places tend to be per hour though, from my experience.
  21. https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/element-airsoft-an--peq-2-battery-box-with-red-pointer-20mm-rail-ex426-bbs-29234-p.asp might be of some use? Seems to be relatively good quality.
  22. Not 3d printed yet Working on an airsoft SA80 BFA, it’s very rough currently but hoping to get it working asap
  23. Awesome. Well, not really… but at least I have a lead! 😂 Thank you so much guys for the help!!!
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