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concretesnail

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Posts posted by concretesnail

  1. Bang rules are dumb, too much ambiguity. If you're that worried about getting hurt run the site with a lower fps. There have been a few uk based cqb site I've played at that require a lower fps and semi only and some that didn't allow grenade use simply as they were in a highly urban area.

     

    Surrender options. Fine. You call it and they have to option to take it, in the knowledge that of they don't they could be getting hit at the mich closer closer range.

    Giving players that choice can make for some quite memorable moments, I know I've had few.

     

    Dummy grenades. If it doesn't go off it does fire so it's a dud. I know I've used my bfg when it's not primed. Roll it in and when they are running for the exits follow it in and shoot them as they flee.

     

    Knives. After covid we'll have to see how things go. But they should be allowed. It should be a silent option. A tap on the shoulder, a whispered knife kill, no hit call out, just take it and walk away, if someone has been sneaky enough to creep through then they should be able to continue that advance.

  2. The first think I'd look to change is that rubber.

    The omega nub is one of the harder nubs available, and its very good as as it can apply pressure over a wide area.

    As you need to crank the hop to get backspin to lift the heavier bbs I'd guess that rubber is too slick and doesn't have the 'grip to hold the bb and the high pressure is being used to compensate.

    If you swap the rubber for something softer which will grab better, but wear slightly quicker.

    I use a maple leaf rubber in my dmr and its great.

  3. As a quick guess, assuming that there is nothing in the gearbox causing excessive strain then it is just the draw that the electrical components require. 

    Ias you are already using 11.1 upping the voltage to reduce amp draw isn't the first thought for a fix so I'd suggest that the battery packs aren't up to task and that they aren't able to cope, suffering sagging voltage and increased draw.

    The first I'd try is to look to run a higher draw pack and go from there.

     

  4. Like you I'm in the shorter leg category, but need to wear knee protection with work as well as play. I've found over the years there's no sub for good kit. 

    I've moved most of my kit to clawgear of late, as they are tailored well and the knee protection is adjustable as to its position and fit.

    I appreciate it is not the cheapest of gear but I've found both the raider and operater to be great.

  5. Having had to wear eye pro for years with work and then on the airsoft field it's not worth chancing anything "cheap" you only get one set of eyes.

    The boiler safety glasses have stood me well for years with work so picked up some trackers for airsoft. They worked great, I treated mine with mucoff anti fog, as I do all my goggles, and they were fog free always. 

    However they did recently fail. On a night game they took a round directly to the frame just on the bottom curve, by the bridge of the nose, and the frame split popping the lense out of the frame.

    Not a great issue at the time as I always carry a second set of eye pro in a pouch but worth worth noting, through they did there job and always consider eye pro as a perishable asset.

    Currently I'm wearing ess ice glasses and i feel they are even better than the bolle. More coverage, lighter and interchangeable lenses. Worth the extra cost.

     

  6. I have a 5.11 vtac 2 on my 308, and its been great. Its really easy to set up it, really comfy and it dries really quickly (I always seem to get soaked on night games).

    It's the same as the viking tactical (Kyle lambs designed) sling I think, just in 5.11 colour ways.

     

  7. I'd certainly look awaiting the rear plate for a bladder of some kind then, use it as a way of adding weight to the rear of the carrier. But use water so you can fine tune the weight. If you don't want it sloshing foam can be used as soft baffles.

    I have a source bladder in the plate pocket if my was901 back panel which worked a treat balancing epg gas mags for my masada.

  8. if you want a plate carrier then have a plate carrier, but its true that you get what you pay for.

     

    Whe i first started playing i when for a plate carrier, a cheaper on, and it did carry mags well but it didnt breath well, got very hot, it was tricky to adjust and if you wanted to change the pouches it wasnt something you could do mid game (all my rifs seem to be different calibers), addmitted ly the last wasnt an issue when starting.

    After deciding i needed a change so went for a chest rig, much easier to move, much cooler temperature wise when playing fast, just as much space for pouches and as it happens it was a scalable setup, being that it was a Warrior 901 chest rig, so i could add back panels etc at a later date.

    if i were starting again, or advising someone who wants to get something now but like the idea of plate carriers then Id suggest looking at the small warrior chest rigs, which are velco back and can connect to the new style of modular PC.  the smaller rigs are affordable, and can be found second hand, strong and well designed so they will last, and if you do want a pc in the end you can just remove the straps and clip it on to the PC. itll give you something to start with and progress to a better design and much better rig if and when you do.

     

    eg. currently i use a warrior recon carrier and changing primary i just rip off the front panel and swap for a different setup, and grab the appropriate rif

     

     

     

  9. Skyrc make solid chargers do various models to suit different needs, have one and its been great for the years that I've owned it.

    I also use an isdt charger. They aren't quite as simple but offer a great deal more flexibility.

    The imax chargers are fine if you get an original but the rc and quad world is plagued with clones and knockoffs which, having seen inside some of them, are potentially dangerous.

  10. I have the 308 variety of the tr16 and so far it's been great. Went 308 as the site I play want dmr in calibre greater than 5.56, meaning long m4 doesn't count. I have the parts to dmr it I just haven't done it yet as it was so good running it as a battle rifle.

    Size of mag well aside, they are more or less the same internally.

    Weak point would be the mosfet, but perun make an upgrade unit which is cheap and plugs straight in.

    The only other change I'd note is that the piston head isn't ported but not everyone wants ported. 

    It hopped point 3s out of the box and ran about 338fps (on .2s). 

     

    Would I buy it again. Yes.

  11. 7 hours ago, snuff said:

    Silly question here but do people cripple lipos?.I tried one of those alarms when I started using lipos was a PITA and would alarm at sustained auto fire due to the draw.

    I have smoked lipos in the past, nit with airsoft use though, I'd rather be safe than sorry.

    If your using the alarm.and it keeps sounding when your firing then the battery if suffering voltage drop.

    This can often a symptom of the battery not being able to supply the amp draw that is being demanded  by the system. High C batteries are less susceptible to it but it will come down the setup as to how draw is being put on the battery.

  12. 6 hours ago, Skara said:

    if it's a EFCS-piece-of-wank you can use the programmer and set the battery protection to whatever voltage you're running.

    It has the efc but it is the earlier version rather than the later blue version, which is the same as the one as the honey badger had/have, and can be programmed. 

    The information I found online stated that it is the blue efcs units could use the card.

    To be fair it's been fine over the years and never stopped running and has performed well.

    7 minutes ago, Speedbird_666 said:

     

    How about this one? - it's a smaller, inline version that plugs between the battery and gun:

     

    image.png.e8484102f13451f26575a763b1a9c8f7.png

     

    https://www.componentshop.co.uk/in-line-low-voltage-alarm-deans.html

     

     

     

    That might be good. Thanks I'll have a closer look.

  13. 4 hours ago, Speedbird_666 said:

     

    You mean a LiPo battery alarm? They are £3 posted from eBay. Plug into the balance plug of the LiPo, stick it in the foregrip of your G36. It'll beep if the cell voltage drops below 3.7v

     

    image.png.ed4783f9e7369f5b8183a9dc15d97e94.png

     

    I have a few if these but they are tad tight so I was hoping for something much smaller, similar in size to the likes of a perun etu++ unit but without all the functions etc.

  14. morning all, i have an ares g36c which is gettig some work thrown in to it and i would like to be able to run it on lipos without having to run a voltage meter display thing. It also has the ares electronic trigger in it so a full V3 optical might not fit so didnt want to drop a load of funds on it. So really what i need, is an inline voltage piece that beeps for dectected voltage drops so i dont cripple a lipo. Anyone have any ideads as to what is about or recommend one they have used for similar safety measures?

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