Jump to content

alxndrhll

Members
  • Posts

    988
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    17
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by alxndrhll

  1. Potentially stupid question to ask before dipping into advice if there is a leak (it'll tend to be from the hop if there is one), are you covering the end of the inner barrel itself rather than the end/whatever device you have at the end of the outer barrel? It's damn near impossible to do this type of compression test if you're not covering directly over the inner barrel, it's seemingly hard to explain what I'm trying to say with words. I can try and throw together a shit example on paint if I'm making zero sense. Edit: I went ahead and did my shit paint drawing to try and better illustrate my question. Yellow is the inner barrel, black is the outer barrel. If you're currently covering the end/cap of the outer barrel as shown above by the red arrow you'll be losing air out of the inner barrel... hence appearing to be a leak. If you're covering the end of the inner barrel as shown above by the green arrow (I'm assuming requiring the removeal of the end cap) then you're likely leaking fro your hop chamber. It'll vary depending on what bucking you're using, I believe you had a FAST hop you were putting in it? Historically I found Silverback buckings in the FAST hop needed a very small amount of *whispers very quietly* PTFE tape to ensure a seal. There are a few of them out there, but this is probably the best 'how to put an SRS back together' video I've seen. There are some aftermarket parts which he has but the method is largely the same irrelevant of what you're running.
  2. Suffice to say great work for catching it, raising awareness and to all that have acted on insisting some proof of safety standard is provided until sales can continue. If you want to peddle 'custom made' wank to anyone daft enough to buy it then I guess more the fool them. But safety equipment is where a pretty firm line needs to be drawn. Grumpy old twats as we may be, excellent work folks.
  3. As much as I agree I’ve just come to accept it as a colloquial term for ‘not stock’. As many in airsoft are it’s literally just a throw away term, much like many folks think the moment ‘CNC’ is attached to something that it’s of superior quality to something manufactured in a different way (hard truth for some, not always the case). I pretty strictly use the term ‘aftermarket parts’, but I’m aware I’m cutting my nose off by doing so because just putting ‘upgraded’ would likely attract more attention. You/we have the benefit of being educated as to what will and won’t make something perform better (for the most part), the ‘fuLLy upGrAdeD’ ads (at least I suspect) are more targeting buzz words to catch folks none the wiser. And unfortunately it works, or at least seems to given the rate at which they tend to sell and the lack of rant threads from folks claiming they’ve been ripped off. Does it make me cringe? Yup. Has it been around for forever? Yup. Will it continue? Yup. Am I glad this thread exists for momentary grumble? Abso-fucking-lutely. Edit: I’m in no way denying upgrades exist, but to be an upgrade there needs to have been a measurable improvement by some sort of metric from a baseline. If you’re selling something that’s been upgraded and you can’t tell me what the improvements are as a ‘before and after’ then how do you know it’s actually an upgrade?
  4. Some EPMs for the NGRS to fill a void until I can stumble onto some pmags, opened them up as soon as they arrived and did some weathering/shading on the ‘bullet’ inserts because they look awful without it. Managed to find some Gen M2 ranger plates in stock so grabbed those immediately, make EPMs look so much nicer IMO. And to wrap up, a Ferro 45 degree QD mount... just an aesthetic upgrade over the Magpul one I’ve used on and off.
  5. I believe that's the hop adjustment lever (or 'trajectory adjustor' as ICS call it in the manual). Source: ICS MP5 Manual
  6. I wouldn’t say it’s a flaw at all, just a way of ensuring you’re comfortable with the level of information you have before doing things. I’m sure everyone has similar things, just perhaps less pronounced. Was purely raising it as a ‘if you’re going to look at advantages versus disadvantages it should probably be a bit more objective than scribbles on a napkin which sync up with your bias’. As stated in my prior posts, as long as you’re happy with it that’s all that matters. You’ve picked the RIF, at least based on what you’ve said here, entirely on the fact it’s your favourite of what is currently out there... and there isn’t really a better reason for buying a RIF than that IMO 😊.
  7. I think that statement is pretty disengenuous personally, lest our bias sway the conversation away from where it is. The difference in cost isn't insignificant, and if you know what you're doing (or at the very least know which resources are, and are not trustworthy) a VSR can keep up with an SRS for much cheaper. Again, not to say you shouldn't go with the RIF you actually want... but I wouldn't worry about trying to justify it by boiling it down to statements about advantages and disadvantages. They both absolutely have a place, the only thing an SRS can do which a VSR can't is be THAT quiet (without HPA'ing/CO2'ing anyway), VSRs can be made very quiet but I'm yet to hear one that's as quiet as an SRS. Though there is absolutely an arguement to be made that given MEDs you don't actually 'need' a RIF to be as quiet as the SRS can be. That aside, I'm sure you could cowboy/bodge the top rail longer if you absolutely wanted to but a cantilever should be more than enough. If you're planning on running it with a helmet and ear pro I suspect you're going to wind up with that scope being on stilts, but as you say, that'll be trial and error. My post was largely there as a 'this is something you should be aware of' rather than a 'this is a definitive fix for a common problem'... if that makes any sense at all! Other thing to add to the pile of things to consider is parts availability, SRS parts can be a bit of nightmare to get your hands on. I can't speak from experience but I imagine that's only become worse since Brexit/COVID. That's not to say you need a boat load of tat to throw in/on it, but I know you mentioned liking that side of things in your initial post so felt worth mentioning. (More than happy to be corrected on this if stock level issues have changed in the last 6 months). While on the subject of teching, neither RIF is particularly hard to tech on but the SRS is significantly easier to fine tune simply by the nature of how quick it is to tear down. That's not to say I think it's actually easier to work on versus a VSR, it's just more... convenient. FWIW having had both my personal preference lands with the VSR, but that's largely down to how much I use the RIF. I feel much less guilty leaving the VSR in the case to use other RIFs than I did the SRS. I think the SRS is a great option for folks that are all in on 'sniping', but as a RIF for when you want to dabble the VSR is just a better fit.
  8. Seems like you're narrowing it down based on the most important criteria which is simply (if budget isn't really an issue) 'which do you want more'. Points worth considering in regard to the SRS which I haven't seen mentioned elsewhere in the thread (the second of which I hardly see mentioned anywhere but was a massive deal for me): 1) Getting used to the action for the bolt is weird, it's worth noting that if you have experience with RS bolties expect much more resistance than you're familiar with (you're compressing a spring manually after all). Alongside that bear in mind that the stronger the spring, the harder it is to compress... which can exaggerate how uncomfortable it can be to rack the bolt. The Rapax 'light pull' springs are worth considering, last I'd looked Skirmshop UK carry them. 2) Get some/a 'Very High' scope rings/scope mount. Failing that, take a look at risers. Unlike a more conventional 'rifle' styled boltie you're sitting pretty much flush with the rail when you cheek the pad so you'll want to bump that scope up a bit so you can get a nice picture on your scope consistently without clanging your scope with the bolt handle. The latter being a larger consideration if you start to look at aftermarket bolt handles. Obviously it'll vary based on a number of things (eyepro, face pro, your own preferences on eye relief etc) but worth considering. This is specifically something I never see mentioned with the SRS and I found it a really big deal for comfortably skirmishing with it until I found the solution which worked for me. Which was 'High' a 1 piece cantilever mount with the cantilever rear facing to get the scope closer to my eye, on a UTG riser to get it at a natural height FWIW. I never found the weight to be much of an issue, granted I had an A2 and completely stripped it down to a G-Spec using a carbon fibre suppressor, but the two things I've noted above were absolutely things that were an issue and ended up taking either extra time or extra cash to solve. Not intended to disuade you at all, just food for thought. I hope you're extremely happy with whatever you land on!
  9. "I can't hear you on comms bud, all I can hear is something that sounds like someone breathing through their nose." Fishing for reactions aside, I feel like this is the sort of thing firmly targeting newer players and pushing for deeper scrutinisation before someone that doesn't know any better winds up with some long term injuries is absolutely something to chase for if possible.
  10. Entirely depends on what you're looking for 'feature' wise. If you like the idea of having modern features (and/or just gucci kit in general) which largely counter the disadvantages of running a 2 point sling, then as mentioned by others the Ferro Concepts Slingster or T-Rex Arms Sling are generally seen as the 'class leaders'. Note in both instances with these that the slings themselves are £50-£60 and that's excluding fittings so you'd need to pick up some form of mounting fittings .My prefered tends to be either HK/clash hooks which are £5-£8 each or D-Loop QD swivels which usually run about £15 each. Don't cheap out on your fittings... no point running a good quality sling if the metal hardware is garbage. If you're looking for something a bit more budget, plenty durable but less feature rich then again as mentioned by others your other main option would be surplus.
  11. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • For sale
    • As new

    Hi folks, Quick note, relisting this as I'd marked the prior listing as complete (withdrawn). Getting out of HPA, so this is all surplus to requirement. Prices are including PayPal fees and shipping: 4500psi Stirrup Pump w/ filter - SOLD 36" Black HPA Custom Line - SOLD 42" Black HPA Custom Line - SOLD Balystik HPR800C Regulator - SOLD Redline Mini SFR Regulator - SOLD 36" Green HPA Custom Line - SOLD 7 Litre Airgun Cylinder w/ filling whip and quick disconnect fitting - Never filled, completely unused - SOLD Valken 48ci 3000psi Tank - WIll be emptied ahead of shipping - SOLD Cheers, Alex

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    Sale, Greater Manchester - GB

  12. Anyway, with that aside. Barrel length doesn't do a huge amount for you, though it's wise to have some degree of volume matching (which I'll assume won't be the case from the factory) if it's 'peak performance' you're ultimately shooting for. As with any of the cheaper brands (and more expensive ones these days unfortunately) the biggest gamble you're taking is with QC. Generally speaking that's more of a roll of the dice with your more budget brands, but it's not to say the more 'premium brands' are immune to it by any stretch. The reason this is generally more significant is it can render the prior experience of folks that have used/use this RIF somewhat moot. The advice ultimately being the same it is everytime something along these lines comes up, if you just want a new RIF for whatever reason then go for it. If the actual thing you want is purely just a bump in performance, that cash would be wiser spent on bumping up your current RIF. Figure out which of those two statements is a better fit and pick your poison as appropriate.
  13. Bar the zips and the materials used for the attaching straps it seems pretty much identical to the Crye 6x6x3 GP pouch (though based on the dimensions provided by Spiritus it's .5 of an inch smaller in height and width). Nalgene pouch is exactly what you'd expect, I'm not personally a huge fan of the S.A.C.K. I found it too big for what I want a dangler for, I'm not sure anything would ever replace the Ferro Mini Dangler for me... but that obviously depends what you want it for. Where many of the other danglers feel like they get in the way doing various crouching/prone movements the mini dangler does not. As always, YMMV based on what you want out of it... just figured a few words might be useful if you're looking at making some more purchases :).
  14. Because I have zero self control I gave into the pull of the Spiritus delivery at TK. Bought some bits for a plate carrier I was intending to be selling 😅.
  15. For sure, it certainly feels like 'less of a toy' in the weight department but not heavy enough for me to think I'll struggle using it for a day... at least not with any notably increased amount of ache across the following days. Aye, it's something I've seen mentioned a few times. Any recommendations in terms of what to use?
  16. Being entirely honest it's lighter than I'd been expecting based on what I've read, and it only stands to get lighter as I swap out the E&L Zenit front end with the real one. Built like an absolute rock though.
  17. The E&L arrived today, what an absolute lump it is. I wasn't expecting my biggest take away to be 'fuck me, that smells good'... but here we are. Just waiting on a delivery from Russia and we’ll finally be underway on getting it together.
  18. Having read my initial post back I could have been clearer. The 'offensive' bit I was refering to was the phrase we agree is no longer acceptable. The dipping into the identification subject was, in my opinion, inappropriate and unneccesary within the topic of conversation. I felt the conversation was starting to go in an inappropriate direction, explained why, and left it at that. I was very concious of not pointing out that I was offended, and was simply raising that it may not reflect well. If you're happy to accept that it may not reflect well, and think the humour is worth it, then as you were. I won't waste my time trying to convince anyone that they should consider what they think is humour could be offensive to others. I'm a straight white British male (as imagine the vast majority of the folks that make up this forum are), I'm/we're fortunate to not have to deal with that sort of stuff on a daily basis. As expected the term snowflake has now been thrown in there, so that's good. I'm more than aware of the general demographic for airsoft, alongside the general demographic for forums so I can't say I'm surprised by the reaction of being challenged on it. I agree that it is all subjective, what isn't subjective is that if it hadn't been said at all then there would have been no risk of offending anyone. I won't drag it out any further, I've said what I wanted to say and I genuinely appreciate you taking the time to give a reasoned response so I felt I should do the same.
  19. It may well be the bucking needs to bed in a bit before it'll 'play nice' with .32s. Might worth intermitently dipping back to .32s every thousand rounds or so to see... though the more expedient way (if .32s are what you want to use) would be to play around with different nubs/remove some material from the nub currently being used in Monkman's case. I'd never had any issues with .32s with mine, but admittedly my G&G green is anything but fresh out of the packet, I dread to think how many rounds that thing has seen. G&G may have also changed the design/material slightly since I picked mine up, but I feel like that'd be something plenty of folks would pick up on had that been the case given how many folks use them in a veriety of RIFs. Nevertheless, good to hear that shots aren't hooking anymore.
  20. I'd like to think I've got a good enough gauge of you both over my time on here to know there was no malice behind it, just felt like I needed to call out that it didn't feel appropriate. I'd hate for the contents of some of those messages be folks from LGBTQ+ communities first (and lasting) impression of how inclusive this forum is. The fella throwing 'fags' around as an insult though? Yeah, long walk, short cliff.
  21. I dare say it's safe to say this thread has run its course, before we start (or continue) to dip into offending people (be that intentionally, or unintentionally). More than happy to get flamed to kingdom come for it, but I don't think the sexuality/gender/indentification is particularly appropriate. If you're genuinely confused by it, there are plenty of great resources to become better informed.
  22. I'd also say, @Skara aside, this forum isn't really the place the moan about folks being clowns with their RIFs. And Skara is far enough away that we don't have deal with his 'you're all pussies' antics on the field . Folks that tend to frequent here all sing from the same hymn sheet in the grand scheme of 'twats are twats, and will be twats with whatever toy they're using'. More than within your right to find the hose and tank harms your personal immersion, but enforcing your preference on others only serves to put further barriers on what is already niche hobby. That latter of those statements doesn't exist to devalue your opinion, it simply runs parallel to it. It's a shame your work around is to limit the sites you attend, but I'm glad you've seemingly found a 'solution' that works for you.
  23. Modding the bolt to being straight pull will get you there 😅.
×
×
  • Create New...