Cyberlawyer

I have no idea what this actually cost in terms of time and materials, and its a long way away from my kind of thing, but I'm pretty sure that this is someones idea of a wet dream and it will sell so fast your head will spin. Any of the sort that use a souped up mk23 DMR in a carbine kit as their skirmish primary will rip your arm off. Lets be honest they have already given up and sense of immersion or realism in pursuit of winning so this will check many boxes for them. I'd be fairly confident you will be able to cover your costs.

Just to correct my previous statement. It should say the ratio between cylinder volume and barrel volume is a black art. However the calculation its self isn't that hard. Just work out the internal air volume of the barrel and the internal air volume of your cylinder and compare them the cylinder volume should be bigger than the barrel volume The maths bit is here https://www.omnicalculator.com/math/cylinder-volume just plug the numbers in.

7 fps is well within the margin of error, so that's not the problem. It sounds like you have covered all of the basics. I might be grasping here but have you done a volumetric calculation between the barrel volume and the cylinder volume? An under volumed cylinder can have a bunch of strange side effects. The ratio between cylinder volume an piston volume is a black art and I'm no expert suffice to day cylinder volume should exceed barrel volume with some margin for error. Also I did mention it previously, but try .3g BBs some guns just like heavier BBs

As someone who owns 4 MWS. It is usually cheaper and easier to just buy a complete separate gun and configure it how you want. It is pretty rare to pick up a separate upper and when they do come up they are nearly the price of a complete gun anyway. One of my guns started off as a spare upper, someone on this forum damaged their lower and managed to pick up a pre-sprayed retailer two tone for a fair price and was very reasonable when selling the unnecessary upper on the forum. As I was planning a DMR upper the bright green front end was immediately going in my bits box anyway so that was fine for me. About a year later I saw someone selling a lower (as they wanted two uppers and a lower in the same gun case) and it was so cheap relative to the price of an upper that I bought it immediately if for no other reason than I would get more for a complete gun than for an upper only of I ever did decide to sell up. Also if you are Looking at a DMR build for your second gun, a complete gun makes sense as you can semi lock the DMR lower so you can up the FPS. Pics of my MWS, just why not....

Ah ok sorry I misread 50ft to be 50m. At 15m that is a pretty poor grouping IMHO. Please bear in mind my main airsoft hobby is target shooting and 3 gun stuff so I am more focussed on accuracy than many skirmishers. First thing is check your power is consistent shot to shot by putting 10-20 bbs in quick succession through the chrono and see if there is a variation. Your nozzle seal might be good on a one off shot, but not quite as good for shots in rapid succession as it gets a bit 'hung up' on the rubber before it fully seats. If this is the problem the solution can be as easy as a thin smear of silicone oil on the nozzle to allow it to reseat easier after each shot. Then look at your barrel. Is it clean, is the bore smooth (I.e free of defects or corrosion that won't clean out) is it straight and is the muzzle end properly crowned. Most of these are fairly obvious, the crowning one is less so, but the idea is to allow the air behind the bb to escape the barrel in a controlled way so it doesn't create turbulence that will upset the BB. All but the cheapest barrels will be crowned fine from factory, but If you did shorten a barrel its something to look at. Then look at your hop rubber. Most rubbers will be fine, but check for internal mould lines or other inconsistencies. More importantly check how it fits with your barrel and hop unit. While the seal might be fine, does it all line up without forcing anything or deforming the hop rubber, does the pressure pad sit fully in the hop window without getting bound up. Personally I love Maple Leaf rubbers in my MWS GBBR, but they only really play nice when paired with a crazy jet barrel as they need a bigger hop window than standard, and then I have to take 0.5mm off of the side tab that fits in the hop unit with a razor blade. If I don't do any of these things it will fit and work fine and even deliver good power, but it has a dramatic effect on consistency.

On an average 1hr range session I use about 1000 bbs, so assuming I get two sessions in a week (which I try my best to do) and also assuming I was only doing pistol drills, the AA would last 3 weeks….

I'm not seeing a problem here. Assuming you are chronoing at 350fps (on .2g BBs) and are at a true measured 50m. I'd say a 12" group with .25g BBs is actually fairly decent, that's pretty much 100% hit ratio on an A4 sheet of paper at that distance (yes I know A4 is only 12" along the longer edge which is why I said pretty much). You will improve your grouping by moving up to .3g bbs at the cost of longer flight time (absolute range may also vary). I think a lot of people under estimate how terrible a ballistic projectile the humble BB is. Remember a 500 fps sniper rifle hurling .4g BBs at 350 fps (approx 500 fps on a .2g BB) is only reaching out to about 80-85m.) In response to the question on zero it depends on what range you set your zero and how you set your hop (i.e. do you set it to have a trajectory as flat as possible or for a lift at the end to get max range). If you zero to 10m then the path of the BB will be pretty flat whatever weight BB or hop set you use). At 20m you will see a difference, if you set your hop aggressively for max range it could be significant, but if hop is set for a flat flight path it will be quite small. Beyond that yes the zero will change.

Which RMR are you looking at? The one I got from Amazon for my Cybergun FNX was a direct fit no adapter required... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0773G4P53/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm also a fan of Lowa boots - For skirmishing I use their Recce boot (now discontinued but still readily available). I also really like the Altberg Sneeker as a light weight option. Problem with boots is everyone can comment on features and build quality, but the single most important feature in any pair of boots is fit and that is an incredibly personal thing. My advice would be to go somewhere that have loads of options in stock with an open mind and try on everything and pick the one that fits the best, and buy those ones. Just a note that 'best fit' and 'most comfortable' are not exactly the same thing although there is a high degree of overlap. For example Lowa Recce boots fit me well and provide a high level of support and as such I find them pretty comfortable and am able to wear them all day without issues. However the most comfortable boots I have ever had are the Adidas GSG9 boot. Here the improved comfort was due to an excellent fit and also the fact that they are very soft, lightweight and breathable. The trade off for the extra comfort is that they are not that hard wearing so have a much shorter lifespan than the Lowas or Altbergs.

From personal experience I actually have an AA Glock in pieces in a box of bits somewhere around here. As a general rule I don’t comment about guns where I don’t currently own one (and can prove it with pics) and have at least a couple of range training session with it. I bought the AA as on a visual inspection it looked decent and the price was too good not to try it. I had the same idea as the original poster that if I was going to change a whole bunch of bits I might as well save as much money on the base pistol as possible. Like RDB my measure of performance is practical pistol style shooting. limited use (around 3000 BBs) showed that the tolerances and materials were not particularly good. There was extensive wear on the parts and consistency was poor by my standards (for torso hits at 10m it was ok but at that distance I expect at least a consistent 6” group which is well within the capability of a WE Glock straight from the box once the hop rubber has broken in). Based on the current wear on my example my best guess is that it’s probably more than 50% worn out so probably only good for about 6000 bbs before it makes more sense to buy a new one than repair the one you have. I Have several WE glocks that are way over this with nothing more than a new hop rubber and a hammer bearing. Mag is still going strong after a few new o rings so not a total wash out.

Here I have to disagree the TM isn’t better in every way…… just almost every way…. As someone who owns both, I wish Marui used the double action mechanism from the VFC, where even in double action you have to rack the slide on a fresh mag before it will fire rather than the mechanism from a 1980s cap gun Marui chose to use. It’s much more realistic The trades are also slightly nicer on the VFC and the airsoft branding more discrete, but as I’m not really bothered by trades that doesn’t matter to me.

True, all companies even the mighty Marui drop the ball on occasion and WE have a few notable lemons (yes the MK3 HP is right up on that list and I would happily junk mine if there was another more reliable option). However the WE G series is very good and given the cost you can see why they are everywhere. There commonality is one of the reasons why many people are desperate to use anything else,

Sorry to be so blunt but the best upgrade for an AA Glock pistol is put it in the bin and buy a WE. You will spend more on the AA and it still won’t be as good as a stock WE. for Glocks in general not much is needed. A bearing for the hammer is a good upgrade for smooth cycling as is a maple leaf hop chamber, rubber and a crazy jet barrel. Nothing else is really needed.

Just ordered this: https://www.opticswarehouse.co.uk/vortex-sparc-solar-red-dot2-moa I have had enough with 'reproduction' optics. They are so hit and miss in finding a good one unless you are lucky that the warranty easily covers the relatively small difference in cost.

I really rate replacing the solid cummerbund with an elastic one. I have done this on both of my warrior plate carriers. The integrated pouches are pretty useful for magazines, cleaning kit, radios, mars bars or anything not too bulky, IMHO they improve the comfort hugely, and you get a quick release 'tubes' to boot. They are also pretty cheep. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001639575631.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2bae3d20cAsCrc&algo_pvid=9a9e5fb1-3ac3-4c41-ae5d-9f5b64c51983&algo_exp_id=9a9e5fb1-3ac3-4c41-ae5d-9f5b64c51983-0&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000024657800959"}&pdp_pi=-1%3B15.67%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BGBP%3Bsearch-mainSearch I managed to get an RG set and Multicam set for my two carriers, but can't find a link to multicam. If I get a second later I'll dig out a picture of mine. Will only be a problem if you like to put large pouches round the side of you PC, but I prefer slick sides so I can get to stuff on my belt easily. Update: Just found a link to the MC ones if that is your preference: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002823664864.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.1.2c014c43flJ1dn&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.274681.0&scm_id=1007.13339.274681.0&scm-url=1007.13339.274681.0&pvid=bb2c9594-e5cc-4158-b896-d7520d26abe2&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.274681.0,pvid:bb2c9594-e5cc-4158-b896-d7520d26abe2,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238114%231999&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000024658119576%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%223339%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B15.31%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BGBP%3Brecommend-recommend