SSPKali

Probably need to know a bit more! Front or rear wired? Tamia or Deans? Do they have a MOSFET fitted? Size of battery compartment, etc...

In the thread on this very site! I simply pushed out the trigger pin and removed the trigger and glued on 1mm thick square of plastic to the face where the silver bar contacts it.

Dead trigger is usually fixed by adding a thin bit of plastic to the active trigger face. If the bolt isn't going fully forward into battery try polishing the bolt and the inner case then using a quality light lube.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/H._P._Lovecraft

TM MWSmMags back in stock at FireSupport

Not aware of SMTAN before...wife and child now wonder why I am silently laughing with tears rolling down my face. Your work here is done sir, slainte!

FB is basically a shithole for all communities and attracts (and brings out) the worst in people. If UCAP and various Milsim companies didn't use it for arranging events I would be long gone. Oh, and Zuck is the morally bankrupt reanimated corpse of HP Lovecraft 🤣

I have the G&P recoil MOE and the recoil was meh and quite noisy so I removed the push rod and slider weight out the buffertube and replaced the hollow bolt with a solid M12 one. No recoil but much quieter now 😁 Rest of the gun has been great and never missed a beat!

Take a full speedloader and small can of green gas out on the field with you 👍

Might need a stronger tappet plate spring (or cut 2-3 coils off the current one) to ensure the air nozzle is firmly seated when the piston shoots forward? Also be wary of chronos being super accurate and consistent on full auto bursts!

I have been known to dabble in Kali Linux and Maltego from time to time....purely as a hobby and within the law. If you get stuck drop me a DM. EDIT: Holy thread necromancy! Didn't spot that this was a year ago, I blame the fine IPA I have just finished. Offer stands though.

Probably due to play and uneven / offset spring tension causing binding. It is a really weird trigger set up that has lots of places for friction and uneven loading My fix for this was to strip and clean the trigger parts, note where they were burnished and sand them with fine grit wet&dry then rebuild with 0.1mm shims to remove as much play as possible while not causing it to bind. Takes a while to do but much smoother and consistent now. One thing to check is that you are not getting a light strike...The valve knocker isn't moving with the first stage?

I have been playing over 3 years and got a TM MWS second hand last year...I wish I had skipped all the AEGs I had owned and just gone for that first of all! Would have saved loads of time, money and faffing about with batteries, motors and incompatible mags! Get a TM MWS, 3 spare mags and a TM speedloader. Job. Done.

Probably best to Google that one! Prices in the UK, when they have stock, all seem to be about the same.

MWS for sale on here! (Not mine)

Right, grab a cuppa as this is a long one with charts and graphs! So, having found that my current MWS set up was less than consistent on FPS I decided to play about with the parts I had to find the best (ie most consistent) set up available. Quick Notes: RA Black NPAS - Lose fit in TM nozzle, very lose fit in Angry Gun nozzle (probable source of inconsistency) Requires safety-pin to stop it rotating while using special tool to wind in or out. Hard to see in nozzle when adjusting. Angry Gun adjustable valve - Good fit in Angry Gun nozzle, was too large to fit in TM nozzle. Had a drop of superglue added to rear of grub screw to prevent it unscrewing and flying out the barrel! It was a good tight fit in the screw threads so unlikely. Easy to adjust with allen key, nozzle marked "+ more / - less" on the nozzle to aid adjustment RA Silver NPAS - Had been sanded around circumference to fit smoothly in TM nozzle, was a bit lose in Angry Gun. Easier to see when adjusting it, again it requires safety-pin to stop it rotating while using special tool to wind in or out. Things I did not change: Nuprol Green Gas / v2 MWS magazine, unmodified / 0.28g G&G BBs. Modify Tan Bucking / Laylax hop arm / Crazy Jet 250mm barrel. G&P highspeed buffer / SixG HSB / std recoil spring. Xcoretech X3200 Chrono The weather, sunny 22deg C. All tests conducted out of direct sunlight Dynamic Precision green nozzle cup (moved between test setups) Magazine given a 10s charge, left for 30mins. Given a 4s top-up and left for 5mins between tests What I changed: Initially I used the Dynamic Precision lightweight bolt for tests #1 and #2 Test 1: Angry Gun Nozzle and valve, Dynamic Precision nozzle spring. (GREY plot) Test 2: TM stock nozzle, RA Silver NPAS, Dynamic Precision nozzle spring. (ORANGE plot) Test 3: TM Stock bolt with RA Silver NPAS, Dynamic Precision nozzle spring. (RED plot) Test 4: Dynamic Precision bolt, Angry Gun nozzle, Dynamic Precision nozzle spring, RA Black NPAS (this was conducted a couple of days ago, and kicked off the investigation, otherwise all the same) (BLACK plot) Results: Have a look at the two charts, both have the same data, but the scatter graph has the best-fit line added to aid in looking for the most consistent set up. The setup #3 was the most consistent, but changing to the DP bolt(#2) gave almost the same consistency but slightly higher FPS (maybe more gas efficient?) The one outlier at 305fps spoilt it somewhat so maybe over 20-35rds it might be just as good as #3? The TM bolt, due to the extra weight, gave more recoil, but probably at the expense of gas efficiency. I feel this is an acceptable trade-off as the action was still pretty snappy (thanks in part to the SixG HSB) and full auto was still fast enough. The DP lightweight piston probably saves a little gas and can eke out a few more rounds from a magazine but it will likely be marginal and at the expense of recoil felt (if you want low recoil and high RPS....get an AEG!) Conclusions: The TM Nozzle with the modified RA Silver NPAS seems to be the most consistent, it is likely that the bolt (TM or DP) has little bearing on the outcome in terms of FPS consistency. Recoil and gas efficiency is where these make a difference. The TM Nozzle with the RA Black NPAS (built for the MWS system) is a loser fit and will likely have a wider variance, but not as bad as the larger internal-bore Angry Gun nozzle! (I would guess it would be around the 17-19fps spread...maybe one day I'll check!) So, if you use Angry Gun parts...use the whole thing and don't change out valves/NPAS. Or better yet, if other experiences are to go by, just stick to TM! If you are sticking with TM nozzles try the RA Tech Silver NPAS and spend 5mins with some fine wet&dry carefully sanding the external diameter until it drops in and moves freely. If you can find a Black on that is a suitable alternative...oh and in both cases carry a safety pin in your tool box to adjust it

G&P MOE repainted with graphite grey engine paint, Octarms 13" rail and over-barrel carbon fibre moderator. Camo Krylon stripped from the rest of it. Internally I have put in a non-wobbly spring guide and M105 spring (minus 1 coil!) to give me 292fps on 0.28g BBs. Still got the Titan basic and SHS gears. PEQ box for the battery as the MOE handguard was a nightmare and looking a bit old skool. Waiting on BCM rail covers in grey and maybe one of their hand stops if I can find one in the UK as US shops refuse to post due to ITAR regs 🙄

That is really consistent! my RA silver NPAS manages +/- 6fps and after 10 shots it really drops due to mag cool down. Got my AEG +/- 1fps but pretty sure a GBBR won't do that (or need to) Just tested it and on 0.28g it is between 278 and 290fps (one outlier at 294fps, so still under site limit) DP lightweight bolt, AG nozzle, DP springs and the RA NPAS almost all the way closed. Modify Tan bucking hopping 0.32g and a Crazy Jet 250mm barrel. No idea on bore as previous owner installed it.

I love this idea! I always wondered why a RIF *had* to be a copy of a real gun amd how you could lay things out if starting from a blank slate. I will be following this 😁

I have found the Ares mid-caps (with the little fold out mag-pull tab) work with every thing I have tried them in, but not a Cyma Platinum...yet! So tempted to get one after NegAirsofts review of them.

I tried those with my AI propane adaptor and MWS mags....still didn't fill them Gave up and spent the £££ I would have thrown away "solving" the problem buying green gas in bundles

On that basis it should have been an MP5!

The two signal wires exit the gearbox in the same place as the old trigger wires (front LH side) and go straight up the left hand side of the gearbox shell to the top of the shell and under the cable keeper bit of the gearbox top cover thing and to the MOSFET. They are covered in green heatshrink in the photo below as they are quite thin gauge. Motor-to-Deans wires fit exactly the same as the old ones. They are the ones to the rear next to the 5585EX sticker. I went for thicker gauge silicone wire and measured them up carefully before adding the spade connectors and male Deans plug. If I get time I'll strip it down to get photos but it is a bit of a ball ache TBH.

Just an M4A1 with no A-front sight but more nasty RIS to hold onto / fill with crap 🙄