SSPKali

First thing I would check is pull the bolt and charging handle out and check it and the inner of the receiver for sticking points, burrs and that it is suitably lubricated. While it is apart check the action of the “hammer” and sears that they move and reset smoothly. Some GT85 or similar aerosol teflon spray will help loosen things up. Then check how high the mag is sitting and if the mag gas router is catching on the underside of the nozzle or the bolt carrier.

I missed the last one as I could not find any details and my emails went unanswered. Will look out for the next one as I have a couple of big boxes of kit to shift!

I have found that Bolle Cobra glasses with antifoam wipe (Revision, as above) never fog with me (not that sweaty compared to some) Available in clear, yellow, grey and other lens colours for under £15 but they will stop 6Joule steel BBs DeltaMike face pro for outdoor games, but after some cheek / nose shots <5m in CQB I have a NB Tactical Mk2 mask that I am holding in place with just some 4mm elastic and a cord lock. They will sell you a mesh snood / balaclava for £30+ but that seems to cause fogging and doesn't keep it as secure!

Ahh OK, I think that might be to do with the hop chambers, barrel cut outs and general build quality. Plus pushing 0.36g BBs in an AEG needs some BIG cylinder volume and spring pressure (same for HPA set ups, higher PSI and volume) and then you are still using a hop unit designed for 0.25g BBs at 1J....

okay...this might be a long post! With AEGs you have a fixed cylinder volume and spring speed. This is usually matched to barrel length / diameter and BB weight you want to use (others can chime in with formulas and typical set ups) With a GBBR when the trigger is pulled the gas is vented down the barrel, and as there is a BB in the way it is at a high pressure. This keeps the rocket valve open and gas going down the barrel. Once the BB leaves the muzzle the pressure drops, the rocket valve closes and vents the gas backwards to cycle the bolt. Now BB weight influences how much energy can be imparted to it (assuming barrel, gas, temperature, etc remain the same) If someone gave you a pingpong ball and a golf ball (same diameter, ignore the dimples, you are not throwing that hard!) and asked you to throw them as far as possible, which would go further? The golf ball, being heavier, allows you to transfer more energy into it from your arm. Light BBs tend to leave the barrel too soon before maximum energy is transferred to them. So a GBBR with light ammo would be better with a much longer barrel (as it will have longer time to be accelerated, remember gas continues to vent until it exits the end of the muzzle) but would require more gas volume and still end up with less range. So a short barrel will limit time to transfer power (which is why TM use 250mm barrels to suit Japans 1J hard limit and 0.25g BBs used) Heavier BBs work better as they have the same cross section / drag as light BBs, can get more angular momentum (hop) and lose energy slower than 0.20g so go further. Time to target is negligible difference until much further out where 0.20g probably won't reach. I have 0.28g and 0.32g for my GBBR, the lighter ones to "Joule creep" the power down on hot days. This is why you chrono on the weight you use as if I used 0.20g BBs it would be 0.6J, not the 1.05J the 0.32g give me!

But the Federal one is just a copy of the AngryGun one with the “pegs” at the back rotated 90deg to work with a regular valve stop. If it works as well as my modded AG one they will be more consistent and easier to adjust than the RA Tech ones

I picked up a can of the new ASG Orange (164psi) gas to test yesterday. I have been running my MWS on the ASG beige gas for ever and just bought 6 more cans from Firesupport 😁 Testing was done in 20degC, averaged over 10 shots, with my MWS, mag #1 and 0.32g BBs. YMMV… in fact I am sure it will! This info is only an indication or relative output. ASG beige: 261fps ASG Orange: 267fps They also do the green (135psi) and red (178psi) versions to drop or increase the power. I would GUESS around 220fps / 290fps….will confirm if I get to test any!

Playing about mounting my Kywi pouches with 1” velcro one-wrap and with some off cut paracord made this quick access TQ* mount. Pull down on the red handle and it is instantly accessible. Probably 1001 things you can do with one-wrap, need to order a big roll as so handy for strap / cable management. *don’t buy knock off TQs unelss you clearly mark them FAKE. If you carry a real one get some basic first aid training (hint: very little of it involves tourniquets!)

With some modification (cut a flat, file round circumference) the AngryGun NPAS can fit the much better quality GM or TM nozzles. FPS consistency was much better than the RATech or G&P NPAS, looking +/-2 fps with 0.32g BBs and ASG gas. Shame you can’t buy them with out the nozzle (although the v2 ones seem better quality plastic)

Having fielded my MWS at the great RIFT Airsoft REDCON-2 site at the weekend I found that the old TM hop rubber was on its way out and my GunsModify nozzle damaged (probably from a shattered tracer BB earlier in the year) and this led to a couple of gas dumps at in opportune moments 😂 I also noticed some drift to the left beyond 40m. By 60m it was missing the torso sized target without some serious aiming off! I fitted a Maple Leaf bucking which gave a better air seal so dropped in the spare AG v2 nozzle and NPAS to offset the now very spicy FPS. I have some more GM and G&P nozzles if needed but the RATech NPAS are such a pain to adjust and not that consistent. Once cooler weather is here I’ll go back to the GM fixed set up. To keep the hop perfectly vertical I added a 0.1mm AEG shim to the outside left of the hop unit, between it and the outer barrel / brass collar. This stopped it rotating a fraction when snugging the barrel nut up. Now I just need to get to a range with 60m+ but it certainly looks perfectly level. Tested all my mags and FPS was 278 - 292 over the 7 mags, with each mag within +/-2fps on 3 shot of 0.28g Warhead BBs Mag #5 was the spiciest so marked that one and will chrono using it 👍

I have had the same issue with a stock set up and Laylax arm. Using card board as a temporary shim to keep it central during barrel nut tightening is a great idea. Mine was resolved by twisting the barrel a fraction off centre then tightening up the barrel nut. You don’t need to crank down on it, just use some Blue Loctite 👍 My set up also had some side-to-side play on the arm but a 0.1mm AEG gear box shim either side eliminated that and still let it adjust smoothly. One less factor to influence trajectory.

In my mind the Clutch cover of fortunate son (much better than CCR - fight me!) or the Doom Eternal remix soundtrack. In reality “yackity sax” (Benny Hill theme)!

ASG gas in the beige / sand coloured cans. Only ever go to Abbey 144a or Nuprol Red at extremes of weather!

370mm barrel will increase the power, cool if you are after that but a pain if you end up over chrono limit 😂

Small alteration to my Direct Action Gear dump pouch. I already had the Esstac Kywi in it but I added a molle popper to keep the 3rd column of molle against the belt and hold it open better. Then I added some elastic cord and cordlock to allow a can of gas to be stowed in there too. The cordlock is ziptied to the back of the pouch so I can grab the knotted end and pull it tight one handed.

Bringing Airsoft-forums kicking and screaming into the 21st Century I asked ChatGPT to summerise the previous 275 pages. Question for experienced users, how did it do? n00bs - take with a pinch of salt! The thread on the Airsoft Forums UK about the Tokyo Marui MWS spans numerous pages and provides extensive insights into various upgrades, performance enhancements, and common pitfalls to avoid for this popular gas blowback rifle (GBBR). ### Key Upgrades 1. **Barrel and Hop-Up Units**: - **Prometheus and PDI Barrels**: Users frequently recommend upgrading to a tight bore barrel from brands like Prometheus or PDI to improve accuracy and range. - **Maple Leaf Buckings and Hop-Up Units**: Maple Leaf hop-up rubbers and units are favored for their consistency and performance in varying weather conditions. 2. **Bolt Carrier Group (BCG)**: - **Guns Modify Enhanced BCG**: Upgrading to a Guns Modify bolt carrier is advised for enhanced durability and smoother cycling. - **Ratech Steel Bolt**: For increased longevity, especially under high-stress conditions, Ratech steel bolts are popular among experienced users. 3. **Internal Parts**: - **NPAS (Negative Pressure Air System)**: Installing an NPAS allows for easy adjustment of FPS, making the rifle versatile for different field requirements. - **Upgraded Nozzles**: Users often suggest upgrading to reinforced nozzles from brands like Angry Gun to prevent breakages under high-pressure gas use. 4. **Magazines**: - **G&P and Prowin Magazines**: These magazines are noted for their improved gas efficiency and reliability compared to the stock versions. - **Magazine Valves**: Upgrading to high-flow magazine valves can enhance the gas efficiency and consistency of shots. 5. **External Parts**: - **Handguards and Stocks**: Many users customize their MWS with Magpul or BCM handguards and stocks for better ergonomics and personal preference in aesthetics and handling. - **Rails and Mounts**: Upgrading to lightweight rail systems from brands like Daniel Defense or Geissele is common for reducing weight and adding accessories like optics and grips. ### Things to Avoid 1. **Cheap Internal Upgrades**: Avoid low-cost internal parts that promise high performance but often fail under pressure, leading to more frequent repairs and inconsistent performance. 2. **Overpowered Gas**: Using green gas or other high-powered gases can cause undue wear on internal parts if not properly upgraded to handle the increased pressure. 3. **Non-Specific Accessories**: Generic accessories that are not designed for the TM MWS can lead to poor fitment and performance issues. It’s essential to use parts specifically designed for this model to ensure compatibility and reliability. 4. **DIY Modifications**: Unless you have extensive experience, DIY modifications to the gas system or hop-up unit can lead to more harm than good. It’s recommended to use tested and reviewed upgrade kits. ### General Tips - **Regular Maintenance**: Regular cleaning and lubrication of the bolt carrier group and other moving parts are essential to maintain performance and longevity. - **Field Testing**: Always test your upgrades in a controlled environment before taking them into a game to ensure reliability and performance. - **Community Insights**: Engage with the airsoft community for advice and reviews on the latest upgrades and modifications to keep your TM MWS in top condition. For detailed discussions and personal experiences, the Airsoft Forums UK thread is an excellent resource where community members share their insights and updates on the TM MWS【6†source】【7†source】【8†source】【9†source】.

Air seal as stock on many guns is pretty bad. Just a case of eliminating it step by step. Piston head to cylinder, cylinder to cylinder head, cylinder head to air nozzle (always bad with those plastic ones!) and air nozzle to hop up rubber. With a good air seal I have got 1.05J from an M90 spring

I have been wondering about this too - AirTac make the mag well adapters (either M4 or MP5 mag versions) but you need to borrow some parts from a donor MWS MAG. I have seen people put the line direct into the fill valve of a MWS mag and refill from a speed loader. Probably better for DMR applications where getting through rounds is less of an issue!

So the M105 spring (which should give about 105m/s) was giving 118m/s! Seems the air seal and shimming is really good. M95 ordered from AK2M4 and fitted with the 40shore piston bumper on the cylinder head and full tooth sector gear. Now out putting 278fps on 0.28g with a little hop and seems a little quieter. 6 beeps of precocking and it is really snappy and can give 21rps although I have it on 3rd burst to conserve ammo. Turningy 1000mAh 7.4v fits in the hand guard really well and I have heat shrinked the cables to the barrel to keep them out the way and make battery changes less of a ball ache.

I have a few different shore rating spacers on their way to me and I’ll give them a go. I read up on the silicone mod and it sounds a bit fiddly but can be tuned to suit the build and customised. Just rebuilt the gear box with a full tooth sector and M105 spring - might be running a little quieter and an extra beep of pre-cocking it is still very snappy. Still need to check FPS but that is a bit of a PITA and I need to take it apart again for the buffer pad 😂

Never cone across that before, although I have seen the silicone pads that places sell to replace the std rubber pad on the cylinder head. How durable is the silicone? I have a spare SHS cylinder head so can give it a go.