SSPKali

Ok, did some more testing and checked the fill and exit valves. The fill valve is directly threaded into the back face of the magazine and there is no syphon tube so it is easy to completely fill the gas chamber with liquid propane (or near enough!) Meaning there is little gas available for firing a BB, and shots in quick succession lead to a drop in power due to it taking longer to replenish the gas pressure by boiling off the liquid propane. 8-10sec fill seems optimal. The exit valves on one of the mags was a little sticky so I removed it, lubed with very light silicone oil, wiped the excess off, and refitted. Much more consistent FPS and even gained 5FPS due to efficiency. I did the other mag and found it didn’t make much difference, but that one was always working better any way. Hope this helps anyone else who gets the G&P MWS mags and finds some less than great performance.

Anyone else tried the G&P L Mags (46rd ones)? Seem to be getting some very hot shots for 1-2 BBs then settles down. 285, 276, 263, 260, 258…. My TM STANAG mags give 266fps +/- 2fps. Leaving the mag for a couple of mins and trying again gives shots around 266 which is what I was expecting. I am wondering if a 15sec fill is too much and not leaving enough gas to liquid volume. They don’t have the TM style fill valves that vent the air, so I guess they also lack a fill syphon to prevent over filling? Extra rounds and snappy recoil is welcome I just want a more consistent performance.

It probably won’t wear the nozzle guide much as it will naturally roll the hop wheel and not scrape across it. A non-destructive way of testing would be to put a long strip of gaffer tape in the channel in the upper receiver that the charging handle runs in. That will move the bolt down a hair and may stop the issue. Then at least you know the likely cause and can always peel the tape out after testing.

I think the “gas key” is the nub at the top of that part that fits in the underside of the charging handles. Obviously there are slight differences between the firearm and airsoft M4 designs so not a direct comparison 👍

Hao put the sticker on the upper left face of the BCG (opposite side to the ejection port) it probably needs less than 1mm removing, best to take a little off and try rather than going mad with the angle grinder! I have experienced it with certain combinations of nozzle guides and charging handles. The old worn TM guide and handle was bad for it. Once replaced and the sharp edge taken off the cut out I have had zero issues

The part circled in red is the cut out for the hop up wheel. To make more room you can either carefully file out some more or make the bolt carrier and nozzle guide run “lower” in the upper receiver. Hao achieves this with their BCG stickers for example.

The hop seems to be adjusting itself. This could be the nozzle guide on the top of the bolt carrier rubbing the hop wheel as it moves forward. There should be a small scalloped section, try fettling that a bit and see if that sorts it. the cup seal on the nozzle seems to be causing excessive drag on the nozzle (yes properly lubricated) Some cup seals do that, the Dynamic Precision green ones are great and don’t do this. occasionally an extra BB will just roll out of the barrel. This is likely due to the hop being turned off by the nozzle guide. When the BB is chambered there isn’t enough friction to hold it and it rolls out. Tackle this issue last if it is still occurring.

Fobus IWB from Tactical Kit. Took some heating in hot water and work with sandpaper to ensure the WE G19 fitted properly and I could get the damn thing out again 😂 Craghoppers shirt was good enough for Obi Wan Nairobi so will stand up to anything I put it through 😎

* Glock 19 in IWB * Three spare mags (5.11 Defender jeans extra pockets) * Torch Plenty for CQB games if you don’t go trigger happy.

First thing I would check is pull the bolt and charging handle out and check it and the inner of the receiver for sticking points, burrs and that it is suitably lubricated. While it is apart check the action of the “hammer” and sears that they move and reset smoothly. Some GT85 or similar aerosol teflon spray will help loosen things up. Then check how high the mag is sitting and if the mag gas router is catching on the underside of the nozzle or the bolt carrier.

I missed the last one as I could not find any details and my emails went unanswered. Will look out for the next one as I have a couple of big boxes of kit to shift!

I have found that Bolle Cobra glasses with antifoam wipe (Revision, as above) never fog with me (not that sweaty compared to some) Available in clear, yellow, grey and other lens colours for under £15 but they will stop 6Joule steel BBs DeltaMike face pro for outdoor games, but after some cheek / nose shots <5m in CQB I have a NB Tactical Mk2 mask that I am holding in place with just some 4mm elastic and a cord lock. They will sell you a mesh snood / balaclava for £30+ but that seems to cause fogging and doesn't keep it as secure!

Ahh OK, I think that might be to do with the hop chambers, barrel cut outs and general build quality. Plus pushing 0.36g BBs in an AEG needs some BIG cylinder volume and spring pressure (same for HPA set ups, higher PSI and volume) and then you are still using a hop unit designed for 0.25g BBs at 1J....

okay...this might be a long post! With AEGs you have a fixed cylinder volume and spring speed. This is usually matched to barrel length / diameter and BB weight you want to use (others can chime in with formulas and typical set ups) With a GBBR when the trigger is pulled the gas is vented down the barrel, and as there is a BB in the way it is at a high pressure. This keeps the rocket valve open and gas going down the barrel. Once the BB leaves the muzzle the pressure drops, the rocket valve closes and vents the gas backwards to cycle the bolt. Now BB weight influences how much energy can be imparted to it (assuming barrel, gas, temperature, etc remain the same) If someone gave you a pingpong ball and a golf ball (same diameter, ignore the dimples, you are not throwing that hard!) and asked you to throw them as far as possible, which would go further? The golf ball, being heavier, allows you to transfer more energy into it from your arm. Light BBs tend to leave the barrel too soon before maximum energy is transferred to them. So a GBBR with light ammo would be better with a much longer barrel (as it will have longer time to be accelerated, remember gas continues to vent until it exits the end of the muzzle) but would require more gas volume and still end up with less range. So a short barrel will limit time to transfer power (which is why TM use 250mm barrels to suit Japans 1J hard limit and 0.25g BBs used) Heavier BBs work better as they have the same cross section / drag as light BBs, can get more angular momentum (hop) and lose energy slower than 0.20g so go further. Time to target is negligible difference until much further out where 0.20g probably won't reach. I have 0.28g and 0.32g for my GBBR, the lighter ones to "Joule creep" the power down on hot days. This is why you chrono on the weight you use as if I used 0.20g BBs it would be 0.6J, not the 1.05J the 0.32g give me!

But the Federal one is just a copy of the AngryGun one with the “pegs” at the back rotated 90deg to work with a regular valve stop. If it works as well as my modded AG one they will be more consistent and easier to adjust than the RA Tech ones

I picked up a can of the new ASG Orange (164psi) gas to test yesterday. I have been running my MWS on the ASG beige gas for ever and just bought 6 more cans from Firesupport 😁 Testing was done in 20degC, averaged over 10 shots, with my MWS, mag #1 and 0.32g BBs. YMMV… in fact I am sure it will! This info is only an indication or relative output. ASG beige: 261fps ASG Orange: 267fps They also do the green (135psi) and red (178psi) versions to drop or increase the power. I would GUESS around 220fps / 290fps….will confirm if I get to test any!

Playing about mounting my Kywi pouches with 1” velcro one-wrap and with some off cut paracord made this quick access TQ* mount. Pull down on the red handle and it is instantly accessible. Probably 1001 things you can do with one-wrap, need to order a big roll as so handy for strap / cable management. *don’t buy knock off TQs unelss you clearly mark them FAKE. If you carry a real one get some basic first aid training (hint: very little of it involves tourniquets!)

With some modification (cut a flat, file round circumference) the AngryGun NPAS can fit the much better quality GM or TM nozzles. FPS consistency was much better than the RATech or G&P NPAS, looking +/-2 fps with 0.32g BBs and ASG gas. Shame you can’t buy them with out the nozzle (although the v2 ones seem better quality plastic)

Having fielded my MWS at the great RIFT Airsoft REDCON-2 site at the weekend I found that the old TM hop rubber was on its way out and my GunsModify nozzle damaged (probably from a shattered tracer BB earlier in the year) and this led to a couple of gas dumps at in opportune moments 😂 I also noticed some drift to the left beyond 40m. By 60m it was missing the torso sized target without some serious aiming off! I fitted a Maple Leaf bucking which gave a better air seal so dropped in the spare AG v2 nozzle and NPAS to offset the now very spicy FPS. I have some more GM and G&P nozzles if needed but the RATech NPAS are such a pain to adjust and not that consistent. Once cooler weather is here I’ll go back to the GM fixed set up. To keep the hop perfectly vertical I added a 0.1mm AEG shim to the outside left of the hop unit, between it and the outer barrel / brass collar. This stopped it rotating a fraction when snugging the barrel nut up. Now I just need to get to a range with 60m+ but it certainly looks perfectly level. Tested all my mags and FPS was 278 - 292 over the 7 mags, with each mag within +/-2fps on 3 shot of 0.28g Warhead BBs Mag #5 was the spiciest so marked that one and will chrono using it 👍

I have had the same issue with a stock set up and Laylax arm. Using card board as a temporary shim to keep it central during barrel nut tightening is a great idea. Mine was resolved by twisting the barrel a fraction off centre then tightening up the barrel nut. You don’t need to crank down on it, just use some Blue Loctite 👍 My set up also had some side-to-side play on the arm but a 0.1mm AEG gear box shim either side eliminated that and still let it adjust smoothly. One less factor to influence trajectory.

In my mind the Clutch cover of fortunate son (much better than CCR - fight me!) or the Doom Eternal remix soundtrack. In reality “yackity sax” (Benny Hill theme)!

ASG gas in the beige / sand coloured cans. Only ever go to Abbey 144a or Nuprol Red at extremes of weather!

370mm barrel will increase the power, cool if you are after that but a pain if you end up over chrono limit 😂