Cr0-Magnon

So most of the AEG's we get new from retailers, are as they came from the factory but are there any UK retailers who (for extra £) offer a service where their tech opens the gearbox, checks the grease and shimming etc?

@Skara - Are you actually using it in skirmishes now? @Impulse - At this point I'm just looking at it as something to tweak here and there. There's obviously a massive range of external and internal upgrades and being kinda Glock based, I find them easier to work on than Hi-capas. The stock hop adjustment cog on mine was so stiff, I gave myself this weird blood blister thing, by pushing on it. So obviously I HAD TO buy the CNC chamber 😬 I tried flat hopping it at first but it was nothing, nothing, nothing...to the sky! So now I'm just running the nub which came with it and a 50 degree flamingo, still the stock barrel though...seems alright?

TBH, I only check this thread to read the next chapter in AS vs HPA. Maybe we can change the title? I was at Driver Wood in Crawley yesterday. It's definitely had the most invested in it out of any site I've been to and the Marshals do their job well (step 1 - paying attention, step 2 - communicating). It's got some cool "props" too (a helicopter, boat, black cab, double-decker bus and military trucks) but the two times I've been, something's lacking for me. You've got an L shaped open section which most of the aforementioned props are positioned in. On paper these make for excellent cover to push up from point to point. However the general lack of enthusiasm amongst the players, lead to everyone bunching up at the back and wasting countless BB's, mostly keeping the oppositions heads down/preventing advancement. The woodland section adjacent is quite dense too, making sneaking around difficult. A few times I tried, it was met with several "brrrpps" (HPA!) and a couple hundred BB's rained down. The afternoon provided some highlights, as I was able to successfully carryout a few cool "tactical" moments teaming up with a mate. For example when we went either side of a riot shield player and he didn't know which side to defend. I'm not going to be in a hurry to go back, but at the same time I don't really feel like that's the sites fault.....a weird one. Not having a moan but as a note, it's the first time I've felt in the minority as an AEG user. Definitely seeing a rise in HPA players.

Interestingly I removed one of the FPS rings and the FPS didn't drop 🤔 I tried a 9.9V LiFe and it didn't like it at all, sounded very laboured. I've also changed full-auto to three round burst. Will try to use that a bit more tomorrow.

Even on 4/5 for pre-cocking (which is higher than I've ever run it), it didn't look like the compression ring and piston met. I'm wondering about the battery side of things now. It was omitting one short beep every time....

It's not a Gate, not sure if it's optical or not. It's the one pictured below. I'm using 11.1V Titan batteries too, if that has any bearing. I was just messing around with the pre-cocking settings. I couldn't see the difference until 4 out of 5, at which point the piston came back as far as pictured...which I'm not sure is too far or normal for pre-cocking?

I've been using my Novritsch SSR4 quite a bit recently and overall I am happy with it. However the last game out, I was getting lots of what I'm going to assume was "lock-ups" as the gun would stop firing, until I switched around the fire selector..... although they could be solved by switching it back to safe. Would that be plausible for a lock-up or does it always need to be switching to full-auto? I'm possibly guilty of spamming it in semi (it was a "target rich environment") but thought having a MOSFET which is supposed to offer full cycle detection would prevent that? My other question is, is there any correlation between pre-cocking and lock-ups? I'm using 2 x FPS adjuster rings, which add compression to the spring. With that in mind I was using it only on 2 out of 5 on the pre-cocking scale. So I'm wondering whether less or more pre-cocking would be helpful?

Surely that's a skirt, not a kilt though? I'm led to believe on a kilt, all of the pleats are on the back.

Are you after plastic or CNC?

My problem has always been that I'm airsoft bi-polar. Some days I think it's the best thing ever and want to pick up more guns n' gear, others I hate it and resent having so much already invested.

Not going to lie....when comparing them both last night, I did favour how my TM Glock 17 Gen.4 felt in my hand....that and I have about twenty other pistols.

Pretty standard, I ordered, got a few updates and then some weeks later the item was delivered. I wouldn't recommend ordering from any Asia based retailer if you: A) "Need" the item within three weeks. B) Are going to freak-out if it takes six weeks and then you get a notice to pay customs/handling.

I have and would say they're "legit" in the sense you're asking.

OK cheers, gonna stick with the stock blowback unit and nozzle for now. I have ordered the Waldo customs snappy boi thingy though. I've had this new one since Friday and so far have installed a CTM trigger and lower (in Ranger Green). I can see myself getting a new upper and the hop unit at some point...jeez, this is going to be an expensive one isn't it...

What tips do people have for maximising gas efficiency? ie lighter blowback unit? How are the aftermarket nozzle sets?

I did actually feel like the gun was very snappy on semi-auto with it in....hmm, will have a think. Cheers!

So I'm back in the AAP club after selling my Black Mamba build some time ago. Before I'd fired a shot, I installed a CTM FUKU-2 (great name, huh) trigger, which I really like the look and feel of. However I probably spent more time trying to get the perfect position on the overtravel grub screw, than it took me to actually get the trigger in there. I'm still not happy with the grub screw, especially as it's wobbly and I don't really want to screw glue it. Can someone explain "overtravel" to me and if I really need to use the grub screw? I also don't know whether to keep the upper stock, go for another Black Mamba or a CTM two piece job (although IMO they're overpriced) 🤔 As much as I love the look of the Black Mamba, it did seem to negatively affect cooldown, quite significantly.

Realistically this applies to everything you sell. The amount of times I've listed something and received ten enquiries in the first hour, practically begging for it. Makes me think I could have asked a bit more! Plus everyone fancies themselves a wheeler dealer these days #wotsyabestprice

I believe you'll find they still have a rule about when full-auto can be used. ie not at all in certain games and also not when you're within a certain distance.

Something I've only just worked-out is that you need to ensure the inside of the bucking fits through the barrel window nicely. For example I love 50 degree Flamingo buckings but they don't work in barrels with narrow cuts. I would advise checking that on yours. Also you would need to pair it with a suitable nub. I know in AEG's a lot of the stock hollow nubs just get squashed if you try to hop heavier ammo.

IMO, the TM MP7 is the best venture into GBBR's - even if they're not a full length rifle. They're so versatile, decent range and mine has never even thought about cooling down. I would assume the AA R36 is a case of buy cheap, buy twice if you're considering doing some serious skirmishing with it.

Cheers, have messaged him.

Apologies if it's already been asked but can anyone recommend a company who offers a reasonable turnaround time? I'm only after an AEG handguard doing. The last company I used took nine months and cerakoted over the tritium sights.