Cr0-Magnon

I sold mine fairly quickly for £115 incl' delivery & Paypal fees (with a mag). As @BigStew says, not having a mag may affect the value more than you think. Bearing in mind, picking up a mag could cost the buyer around £35 delivered to buy separately.

As someone who's done it on this exact make and model, by disassembling and lightly rubbing with brake fluid, I can confirm that it's definitely possible. Of course, I would also argue that the whole process takes something away from that "box fresh" appeal.

Yeah, that bit I understand....however "several" individual trigger pulls?

VFC BCM, comes with an ETU. Seems to refer to pre-cocking as "pre-pull" However the way to disengage it, is somewhat confusing. Surely it's not a case of letting off several bursts in full-auto!? I understand holding the trigger for a moment (like on my Perun'ed G&G DMR) or a single quick burst of full-auto (like on my SSR4).

The battery Novritsch recommends for this (and even the 1.5J version) is 11.1v 30C. According to Titans website: C Rating: 16C (equivalent of a 1600mAh 30C)

Yep and discontinued the VFC one, haha.

SSR4 receiver is the same used by Lancer Tactical, Specna, Evolution etc.. It's the SSR15 which was made by VFC.

As an update: I'm now convinced it's a case of overheating rather than lock-up. I tried the gun again on Sunday, in a much slower pace game (ie fewer direct "targets"). However the same thing started happening before I'd even gotten through 150 rounds. I contacted Novritsch customer support and after a few days they replied that it's likely one of two things: 1) ETU was damaged by me incorrectly inserting the body pin that kept falling out (I highly doubt this, feel like it's a cop-out, besides should I have to sort something like that out of the box?) 2) Motor is not set at the correct height. I've never messed with motor height before, as assumed they'd be put together at the best setting. I did however follow their instructions and by tightening it one turn, the gun was noticeably "cleaner" sounding (more thwack, thwack than whirring/slight whine). So I'm left hoping that's sorted it...or failing that, they give Luke @ Negative Airsoft the thumbs up to work on it under warranty.

420fps on 0.12g's 349fps on 0.20g's 290fps on 0.28g's ....mystery solved? Haha, I know, probably not....but wouldn't that be funny?

Technically you don't need to replace any internals. Mine worked perfectly without stronger springs etc but the blowback motion was very soft. It feels much beefier with the Guarder recoil and hammer spring. I wouldn't worry about the nozzle until it breaks.

So most of the AEG's we get new from retailers, are as they came from the factory but are there any UK retailers who (for extra £) offer a service where their tech opens the gearbox, checks the grease and shimming etc?

@Skara - Are you actually using it in skirmishes now? @Impulse - At this point I'm just looking at it as something to tweak here and there. There's obviously a massive range of external and internal upgrades and being kinda Glock based, I find them easier to work on than Hi-capas. The stock hop adjustment cog on mine was so stiff, I gave myself this weird blood blister thing, by pushing on it. So obviously I HAD TO buy the CNC chamber 😬 I tried flat hopping it at first but it was nothing, nothing, nothing...to the sky! So now I'm just running the nub which came with it and a 50 degree flamingo, still the stock barrel though...seems alright?

TBH, I only check this thread to read the next chapter in AS vs HPA. Maybe we can change the title? I was at Driver Wood in Crawley yesterday. It's definitely had the most invested in it out of any site I've been to and the Marshals do their job well (step 1 - paying attention, step 2 - communicating). It's got some cool "props" too (a helicopter, boat, black cab, double-decker bus and military trucks) but the two times I've been, something's lacking for me. You've got an L shaped open section which most of the aforementioned props are positioned in. On paper these make for excellent cover to push up from point to point. However the general lack of enthusiasm amongst the players, lead to everyone bunching up at the back and wasting countless BB's, mostly keeping the oppositions heads down/preventing advancement. The woodland section adjacent is quite dense too, making sneaking around difficult. A few times I tried, it was met with several "brrrpps" (HPA!) and a couple hundred BB's rained down. The afternoon provided some highlights, as I was able to successfully carryout a few cool "tactical" moments teaming up with a mate. For example when we went either side of a riot shield player and he didn't know which side to defend. I'm not going to be in a hurry to go back, but at the same time I don't really feel like that's the sites fault.....a weird one. Not having a moan but as a note, it's the first time I've felt in the minority as an AEG user. Definitely seeing a rise in HPA players.

Interestingly I removed one of the FPS rings and the FPS didn't drop 🤔 I tried a 9.9V LiFe and it didn't like it at all, sounded very laboured. I've also changed full-auto to three round burst. Will try to use that a bit more tomorrow.

Even on 4/5 for pre-cocking (which is higher than I've ever run it), it didn't look like the compression ring and piston met. I'm wondering about the battery side of things now. It was omitting one short beep every time....

It's not a Gate, not sure if it's optical or not. It's the one pictured below. I'm using 11.1V Titan batteries too, if that has any bearing. I was just messing around with the pre-cocking settings. I couldn't see the difference until 4 out of 5, at which point the piston came back as far as pictured...which I'm not sure is too far or normal for pre-cocking?

I've been using my Novritsch SSR4 quite a bit recently and overall I am happy with it. However the last game out, I was getting lots of what I'm going to assume was "lock-ups" as the gun would stop firing, until I switched around the fire selector..... although they could be solved by switching it back to safe. Would that be plausible for a lock-up or does it always need to be switching to full-auto? I'm possibly guilty of spamming it in semi (it was a "target rich environment") but thought having a MOSFET which is supposed to offer full cycle detection would prevent that? My other question is, is there any correlation between pre-cocking and lock-ups? I'm using 2 x FPS adjuster rings, which add compression to the spring. With that in mind I was using it only on 2 out of 5 on the pre-cocking scale. So I'm wondering whether less or more pre-cocking would be helpful?

Surely that's a skirt, not a kilt though? I'm led to believe on a kilt, all of the pleats are on the back.

Are you after plastic or CNC?

My problem has always been that I'm airsoft bi-polar. Some days I think it's the best thing ever and want to pick up more guns n' gear, others I hate it and resent having so much already invested.

Not going to lie....when comparing them both last night, I did favour how my TM Glock 17 Gen.4 felt in my hand....that and I have about twenty other pistols.

Pretty standard, I ordered, got a few updates and then some weeks later the item was delivered. I wouldn't recommend ordering from any Asia based retailer if you: A) "Need" the item within three weeks. B) Are going to freak-out if it takes six weeks and then you get a notice to pay customs/handling.