Nick G

Now I think about it I've got a genuine Colt Canada cary handle on it and a genuine stock too. Good call onthe M16, will look awesome with some real furniture on it.

My GBBR L119 A1 is based on the WE M4 and its a perfectly decent gun to skirmish. I've got 3 WE GBBRs and use them all. Worth fitting a maple leaf rubber (think I've got 50's in mine) and as mentioned you will need an NPAS. Get plenty of mags too ! Run all mine on red gas all year with no issues. Cant speak for the TM but quite a lot of Real steel parts work with the WE , mine has a buffer tube and charging handle on it and I've got a bolt stop on order to try too.

Check out the ups hate groups on facebook , honestly they must be the most inept couriers on the planet. I always ask now which delivery companies anywhere uses and if there is an option other than ups I take that. a confused snail would be a more reliable bet ! Nick

I've certainly got guitar picks older ! And come to think of it I've still got the MG I bought at 17 , which is way more than 30 years ago !

That's a great result though 🤣

Has anybody mentioned temperature ? how warm are the mags when you use them ? A cold mag makes a hell of a difference to fps. Just been out testing my boneyard combat master and the difference between a cold mag and one thats been in my pocket for a while is night and day in terms of kick. Nick

On my GBBR's I just fit an NPAS . Granted mine are WE not GHK but I cant see there being much difference, I suspect its fit one or the other. Nick

It's not about fps its about Joules (power) . Most sites work to 350 fps measured with .2g BBs for guns capable of full auto fire , Adolf Hamster just beet me to it ! 🤣

Sorry ! Was a bit too good to pass up !

Boneyard Combat Master from Patrolbase . It's the Army Armament one , listed as a faulty slide catch and leaking valve in the mag. The slide catch was replaced with a 1911 one from my spares draw. The leaking inlet valve was interesting, someone had overtightened it to the extent that the head had sheered off leaving the threadede section still in the mag. Drilled out nicely and replaced with a spare. Total cost to fix was effectivly zero as it was just a couple of bits from the spares.

I've also used a couple of E&C boxes in my L119 builds, very pleased with them. I have also used a Tomtac QD box in a 416 build and have to say that is also very good.

Welcome, and prepare for an empty bank account 🤣 it's adictive ! Nick

Captain Tom Moore has passed away today. Rest well Sir, a true gentleman and hero on many levels.

Air seal issues are likely to be hop unit or piston. Gearbox should not be airtight at the back. Probably a daft question but you did try it with .20 BBs not heavier ones ( Ive done that before !) Nick

Also you get answers from people who actually know what they are doing rather than ' my mate's brothers , bosses dog walker reckons' Nick

On their website it says that the store is closed due to covid but they are operating on line Nick

If you want to build accurate replicas start with the blank recievers and then look for parts to fit. I've used E&C boxes in both my 119's but Tomtac boxes do fit in cyma receivers too . I do have a Krytac Nautilus box that I had considdered using in the A2 for the ambi controls but although it did fit somehow I wasn't happy with it. Or barrel length It's an absolute sod, since my A1 gas build i'm now looking at my AEG's and thinking 'that stock tube needs correcting' 🤣

Also check the thread direction, G&P have been known to use clockwise threads rather than CCW, you might be trying to tighten it !

If all else fails, you could get a real ambi selector and get your existing one drilled , tapped and slotted to fit it.

Glueing a selector on the other side will also make it impossible to take it out. Can you post a pic of the selector ( out of the gun) so we can see the shape of the 'inners'

My A1 is based on a G&P receiver, BUT, the trades are actually C8 not L119 and G&P do tend to go their own way with certain parts. Thread for the barrel nut for instance is different to most others. My A2 build is bassed around a blank Cyma receiver that I then got engraved and machined . Internally they are very similar, I used E&C gear boxes , however the A2 build was actually easier because of fitment of parts. Also depending on how accurate you want to get there is machine work needed on the upper for an A1 which the G&P will still need doing. My gas A1 has all the correct upper work, trades and even the correct mod on the buffer tube , all done by LCs engineering. They have a waiting list but for a bloody good reason, they are excellent. What length are you going for .long or short ? Feel free to message me and i can give you a rough list of parts i used for the AEG's . A1 and A2 AEGs and the gas A1

Interesting topic, and i think we all agree just dont pretend be what you are not is the way to go. For my part I only wear British kit. Usually DPM and yes it has the British flag on it of, which I am fiercly proud. Insignia wise though it's just the team patch and UNIT badges for a bit of DR Who fun ! I do wear a set of wings on my sleve from time to time , but I got my licence years ago with the cadetts so I've earned those. I've got mates who have served, some who are serving and some who served and never came back, and would feel that I was disrespecting them if I wore any 'real' unit insignia , not to mention doing an accurate loadout involves running around in way more kit than I've got any intention of lugging about !

Both my AEG L119s are scratch builds, I actually had very few compatability issues (but there were some) , however I refuse to work out how much each build cost me !

I generally use Geoffs too, never once had an issue with them.

Thanks ! They were very helpful. Rang them for a chat then emailed them with the exact details of what I wanted, had a reply in a couple of hours. Ordered over the phone and with me in a couple of days. Now mine are fitted I've got to do the other set for a mate 🤣