Adolf Hamster

afaik isn't it supposed to be limited to stuff appropriate to the re-enacement groups theme? eg if you're a ww2 re-enactor you can buy all the mg42's, m1 garands, lugers etc you like but can't technically get any flavour of ar?

a scientist at the lhc managed to get caught in the cooling system, when they got to him his body temperature had dropped to -273.15°C fortunately he was 0k

pretty much my feelings, given even with the variable i left it set on 4x all the time anyway. didn't really feel any need for less than 4x as you'd just use the dot, and even at 4x it was mostly for checking "am i hitting or has this guy got plot armour on?" found the same with the pso on the dragonuv- i was so often tempted to pull the optic and just run irons....

the problem i have with those is the "1" isn't really 1 in the same way as running a dot would be (ie zero eyebox if you see the dot you're good). i found with the stacked setup i ran for a while the lpvo stayed stuck on 4x constantly with the stacked dot being used for 99.9% of engagements, but it was just a shift from chin to cheek weld if i needed to use the magnification.

whilst you can run without sights, having a repeatable point of reference really helps for anything beyond a few feet. needless to say proper irons are better than barrel sighting, red dots better still. magnified optics are tricky, they're useful for shot tracking (ie verifying your pew is shooting where you think it is) at extreme range, and checking target honesty but at the cost of speed in terms of getting into the eyebox and onto the target. as a general rule i tend to stick to red dots on rifles and irons on pistols, not a fan of pistol dots as the few times i've tried them it seemed to be no better than irons by the time you've used them to find the dot anyway.

Just because it came up when meme fishing; What do you call a broken can opener? A can't opener.....

must admit, some of these bread jokes are a bit stale.....

More than 15fps in arma? Imma be pressin X to doubt that: X

can i just ask, how long are your arms that you can use the foregrip that far out?

few things are questionable: -picture down the sight looks like it's from someone's balcony -the dude by the helicopter is using a different optic -distinct lack of streetlights in the "night vision" pic -might be camera work, but reticle doesn't look any clearer than the cheap red dots we're used to? -lot of cash to find out it's a fraud probably explains why i never buy anything from aliexpress, too damn cynical

yep, for sure you can throw together a zci hop+barrel with ml guts and call it a day, but this sort of product is catering to those who care about that last 5%.

yep, same here. can't even contemplate trying to get it plugged in without breaking on an m4.......

Will have to put that on the list, although going by my typical standards that means i might get round to watching it sometime this decade.....

Man i havent watched any jackie chan stuff in ages, might have to next time i'm in the mood for something cheesy Could be interesting to run concealed, although not something that really works for an airsoft game. Currently imagining how you could do scenarios, thinking like ttt only with a bunch of civ's milling around to blend in with.

i wouldn't be the one to know, haven't even seen a .2 in years

is there something to be read into the fact that i see this right as i decide to binge watch a bunch of 007 movies on prime?

fair enough, i can get the desire, i'm still wondering if retro-bodging a hop onto the We luger might have made it bearable to shoot..... one of those situations where running lighter ammo ironically ends up the order of the day tbf, there's a lot of satisfaction to be had from getting hits with a gun like that, i bought the ct25 as a joke thinking "if it shoots 20 feet i'll be happy" only for it to turn out to have stolen some of tm's fairy dust from somewhere.....

wow, there was me thinking the ~0.6j i got out of the ct25 was a bit on the light side

the tabs on them are very weak, even knowing they're weak it's still difficult to get the wiring etc fitted and grips installed without exerting enough force to break them. guess it's a design flaw that doesn't seem as big a deal on paper as it does in reality. gotta be more than that? brushless was well established in rc even before i started pewing.

it'd have to be a fine thread, take a sliver of a bolt and cut a slot in for turning. but that'd still need some more meat around the inner barrel to engage in, the wall thickness just isn't there otherwise.

yeah, not a lot of room to work with, only place i can think to put an adjustment would be on a sleeve between the circlip and current rubber seal, but there's not a lot of meat there to have both threads and room under for a nub of some description.

it's not strictly necessary for it to be placed at the chamber, the main reason most designs to it that way is to have a method of keeping the bb from rolling out the barrel, but that doesn't apply here. the thing i'd say with that diagram is i can see the rtv peeling off the inside and changing the hop dynamics/blocking the barrel pretty much immediately i'd go light with any centre dabbing lest it deform the barrel too, but drilling a ~3mm hole and stuffing a solid aeg nub into it or cut up section of o-ring is more where i'm thinking, nice tight fit so it stays in position, if anything it'll be wanting to be pushed out by the bb/gas pressure. any room to perhaps shorten the spring and add an external sleeve to the barrel for the purposes of mounting an adjustment?

i might be inclined to move more towards the WE ct25 style where the hop is a separate piece slightly further down the barrel. part A07 is the actual hop with A09 being the grub screw adjustment through the outer barrel. 2 main downsides are getting the slot cut in the barrel, really needs milling, and the seal quality isn't going to be great although tbf that's probably a worthy trade for actually having some hop. certainly with the WE as-is i didn't find it lacking in terms of being able to reliably yeet .32's at a meagre 0.6j, with the results being hilarious given the comically small nature of the gun. another possibility, maybe simpler, is to drill an undersized hole for a solid circular nub (same idea as the ct25 but minus the tab/slot which prevents the nub falling into the barrel) which you can press through with enough friction to prevent it falling out. edit: in both these case i'm guessing you'll have some ability to fit a tdc grub screw into the outer barrel for adjustability?

that'll be a tricky one then, best bet would be go back to a more conventional bucking unless you can find a more "standard" type arm that will fit that particular unit. i wouldn't suggest filing out that stock nub, it can be done but getting it to sit nice and square will be an absolute nightmare leading to shots curving off according to whatever way it's sitting. you could try a maple leaf, the patch won't be held in it's ideal shape but i've done that before and it's worked ok-ish. it could be you've got enough travel to get it to the jamming phase, remember you've gone from 2-3mm of "squishy" material to sub 1mm. you might find it'll accentuate other issues, eg accuracy if it's very sensitive to velocity. i've had guns in the past where even the round count in the magazine was enough to trigger it's sensitivities.

looks like you're getting 4 issues: 1. flat hopped buckings in general have very sensitive "sweet spots" 2. the hard plastic nub shape combined with barely any material on the bucking is making it even more sensitive 3. that's not really the right shape for a flat hop (see 'borg's pictures above), the additional length of the nub is important as it increases contact length for the bb 4. you may well be running out of travel on the hop arm, flat hop nubs are thicker to account for the loss of material in the bucking and mitigate issue 2 your 2 solutions to this are either to revert back to a more conventional bucking, or change out the hop unit so you can use proper nubs.