Skara

At one point I swapped the hop arm with a Madbull Ultimate one I had laying around.. But in all honesty you're better off with a different hop unit.

AEG rubbers and barrels. These are pretty much the only aftermarket parts available along with the short axle motor, the rest is proprietary.

Yup, WellPro pumped out a few versions, some with increased mag capacity (from 1200 to 2800 rounds), longer barrels, different grips and in one photo there seems to be a retractable stock. Since we're here: I ordered some slightly wider o-rings (16.5mm ID x 2mm thickness against the stock 16x2 ones)to attempt to fix the air seal. I'm now looking at hop rubbers, usually I'd go with maple leaf but a) there's 5 and b) I only run 0.25s in this so ML is overkill, I don't need mega accuracy but I would like a few more metres of range to be on par with a half decent non r-hopped AEG. suggestions?

Snap it off with a pair of pliers, doesn't get easier than that.

Your system draws a lot of current then. I run 7,4v 1450mAh 30c batteries in my M4s and my average BB consumption per game day is about 2000 (say 5/6 fully depleted Lonex Flash Mags). The battery tester I use says that with the above conditions I get my battery from 99/98% charge down to 30ish, now I don't know that the percentage refers to, but all things considered I think my builds are at okay efficiency.. All this in full auto for the most part. Also keep in mind that semi auto fire draws way more than full auto, the current required to get the motor going is much higher than the current needed to keep the motor going once it's already spinning. It's not hard to imagine that thirsty motor + semi spam will deplete an average sized battery in a short time, but 500 shots is definitely a sign that something needs addressed in your gun. p.s. I'm confident I have butchered every electrical term and principle with this comment, sorry, I build houses and survey the land, not an electrician/electrical engineer

After 6ish years of use, my Crispi Boots started to fall apart, they became ultra rigid, lost all the grip, can't be resoled.. Gore-Tex membrane is still okay but they're not suitable for my needs anymore. So I bought these La Sportiva ones, Ultra Raptor II model: Hopefully they'll be comfortable and last a long time

My Crispi boots are giving up after 4 years of use, sole has become rock hard which is disappointing as I can't resole them without sending them back to the manufacturer, so I have decided to replace them with these: https://www.lasportiva.com/it/ultra-raptor-ii-mid-leather-gtx-uomo-marrone-34j805811 I *may* have fucked up the sizing as I may need the wide toe box version, but thankfully changing size shouldn't take too long.

Big necro Got tired of taking my Fiesta where it's not supposed to go, so I bought this two months ago: 1999 Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5. (I still love and use the Fiesta, just a bit less now)

A bit late, but it could be the trigger board or the harness that connects it to the etu++ G&G units aren't known for their reliability.

All these well maintained and well thought pistols.... And then there's me, doing silly things. There is a pistol only objective in next weekend's 27h event and I figured out I'd put together something that would still give me an optic to look through but at the same time comply with the "pistol" type of RIF.. Could have used my SMG'd AAP but the organizers specified that it cannot have a body kit nor a stock. Could have also used the TM G17 with its 6 seconds mount but I don't trust the AA mags as they tend to make the gun light strike at random. It looks front heavy and it is front heavy, I thought it'd help with eliminating whatever little recoil this thing has to begin with

Nope, massive over spin if I do.

Took the ak out for a spin today. Performed really well except for: Hop up, I need to slightly shave the rubber piece between the arm and tensioner as it was overhopping 0.32s without any hop applied; Mags, back then I had bought a few Cyma 5.56 flash mags, some fed flawlessly, others didn't feed at all; Stock, as much as I like the looks of the triangle, I think I will replace it with something else to give me room for adjustment (a touch too long length of pull for my liking). Game wise... Let's just not talk about it 😔 mags being iffy made me reluctant to push and play as I usually do. Or maybe I just had a bad day, sometimes it happens.

Yeah unfortunately I didn't take a picture when I took the box apart, all the bushings stick out inside the gearbox by 1/1.5 millimeters. No side to side movement, they're solid in there. But anyway, I think I managed to fix the mag issue, I was using the E&L magwell spacer because I thought it was better than the cyma one, big mistake. Cyma spacer in, went through a full cyma flash mag without skipping a beat. So next step is to play with it (tomorrow) and then take it apart to replace bushings and maybe throw a set of 13:1s in there.

No rof reduction, 20% ab, then irrelevant stuff like trigger sensitivity and no battery warning (warhead takes care of that), no precocking nor any other bollocks going on. I'm using the stock cyma solid bushings (I believe they're 7mm), that I do not really like but currently I am just testing things out, I will replace them with better quality ones once I have everything sorted (along with a set of 13:1s). Also in the gearbox there are currently 3 shims because that's all the bushings allow me to use. Overall it's decently shimmed with very little drag It is a couple of BBs per second faster than a bone stock gun, I say it's okay considering that a stock motor is 30ish-k RPM on 11.1s.

Tech question for the AK gods: Cyma shell and motor cage. 18:1 gears, 4 teeth short stroked from the pickup side. FPS/guarder/Slong compression parts. Warhead 36k, Perun Hybrid, shs m100 spring. 99.something m/s on 0.2s which is on the money for my limit. Here come the questions: 7.4v 1450mAh 30c nets me 14 RPS. 11.1v 1200mAh 15c nets me 20/21. Seems a bit low? 65% efficiency? Little drag on the gears, no drag on piston nor tappet plate. Motor height is set. Also, have you ever experienced having to pull mags towards the gearbox to make them feed? All my mags have 2ish millimetres of play at the back, I was thinking of either replacing the mag release or bodging a spacer for it.

To achieve optimal results you will have to fuck around with voluming For a bodge, I guess slap the supplied 120 spring in there and give it a go. Won't be pretty, but again it's a bodge. I do recommend you do things correctly, it'll preserve your internals and up the overall performance of the gun. Specna gearboxes aren't the strongest so correct voluming will avoid premature breakages (as of now the piston impacts when the BB has long left the barrel, which means that it'll dump its whole energy onto the cylinder head, which in turn transfers it to the front of the gearbox). You could also knock a few teeth off the sector to bleed some extra air volume.

Checking them requires you to disassemble the gun and gearbox and you need to test each pair of components, starting from the piston head against the cylinder-cylinder head assembly: Plug the nozzle with your finger and push the piston, if the air seal is good it'll go down to a certain point, stop and bounce back when you let go of the piston, otherwise you'll hear air escape from either the piston head or the cylinder head. If it happens, you either need to lubricate the o-rings or replace them. You will then need to check the nozzle: With the same apparatus add the nozzle and tappet plate, have the nozzle in the forward position by rotating the tappet plate until it rests on the cylinder head "semi circular thingamajig", plug the nozzle and repeat the previous test. If the nozzle leaks and doesn't have an o-ring, replace it with a o-ring equipped nozzle, make sure to check the length and order accordingly. Don't forget to lube it too! Once the gearbox side is done, it's time to check the barrel assembly: Generally speaking hop rubbers tend to seal perfectly against barrels, moreover the hop unit will slightly squeeze them together so an air leak from there is unlikely unless either component is damaged. A VERY THIN wrap of ptfe tape around the front of the hop rubber (where it meets the barrel) may help, but in most cases it's not necessary. One thing you can do is have the gun assembled with the nozzle fully forward, point a torch down the barrel and look through the hop unit feeding tube, there should be no light coming from where the nozzle meets the hop rubber. If there is, your nozzle might be too short. Then get a chrono and look for any velocity/energy deviation: A good air seal will yield very little FPS/J deviation, regardless of the output.

Everything you see in the first picture kinda needs replacing. What you broke is the valve knocker lock (or firing pin lock) and it's the second part that breaks in an AAP after the hammer itself. You can source an original replacement but at this point I suggest replacing the whole trigger/hammer mechanism with CowCow parts.

Whether it's worth the money or not is completely up to one's expectations. To me it's worth it because I know I can turn it into a decent shooter and I'm not too fussed about looks. It does stand out from the sea of M4s, if that's your thing and it has a certain "fear factor" when your target is quite close. Keep in mind that for a similar expense you can get a generic M4 to fire at the same ROF, if not higher, and not have to worry too much about breaking things (and you get decent ergonomics on top of that) Wouldn't run it on 0.2s because they just lack the performance, especially since this thing comes out at 0.7-ish joules and as of now there are no spare parts available.

Alright, took it apart after today's game and: The internals are proprietary except for the motor, inner barrels and hop rubbers. The springs are vsr-like, but half the length and of odd diametre (11.3mm OD, 8.90 ID). Piston heads (consequently "cylinders" and cylinder heads) are smaller than AEG spec at 20mm OD. Nozzles are proprietary and don't have o-rings. Barrels are supposed to be 226x6.03 but I will check this later. Performance wise it's a hungry beast. Just setting the hops will chew through half a kilogram of 0.25s, it's far from efficient as well, drawing 30odd amps to start and keeping 24A during function, but that is due to the motor being a meh ferrite one. The upgrade plan is: • sort the air seal with new o-rings; • replace the motor with a less thirsty one, even if the overall ROF goes down; • replace hop rubbers to get the maximum possible range on 0.25s; • [optional] replace the inner barrels to bring the power up closer to 0.99J without putting unnecessary stress on the mechanical components. Alternatively make some spacers to go between piston heads and springs to compress them a little more. Pro tip for long term storage: Unscrew the barrel assembly, due to the way it works 4 out of 5 springs are always under tension. Edit: a full sized, picture filled breakdown and "review" will come once I have upgraded it.

Is there that much dimensional difference? Or can one bodge a regular v3 with a dremel, a file and a drill?

I mean, every Ares out of the box needs, as a bare minimum to keep the gun going for *at least* 6 months: New bushings, New piston body, New o-rings, New nozzle, New tappet plate, New hop rubber. That's out of the box, no matter what gun or gearbox version it is. Once you do these things you still have a gun with proprietary parts that can't really be modified without spending way too much. Back on topic, I did ask Ares about something a while ago and it took ages for them to respond, but at that point I had already sold the gun.

People who still buy Ares deserve the horrible experience they get. Change my mind

70° mainly because it can withstand high raters of fire without breakages (lips on the 50 tend to fold at 25ish rps, causing all sorts of bad things to the gearbox and its internals). If semi only is your thing then a 60 should be fine.

Well yeah I don't expect much accuracy/range from this, but having a general idea of where the swarm of angry bees will go is nice when catching someone off guard