Rogerborg

With 20-20 hindsight, this edge is too sharp, and will need ramped and redone. But otherwise I think the principle is sound, and by packing with slivers of electrical tape or similar on top I should be able to tune in some sort of hop effect.

But if you're choosing paintball over airsoft, are you really fighting to preserve anything worthwhile?

M3 x 3mm is the smallest grub screw that I have, and it looks to be just a little too long. Still, worse case I can just plug the hole so never say never.

Airsoft and RC disagree on Tamiya connector polarity, and as XT60 is mostly an RC thing I'd expect any converter to be RC wired. Yup. Oh, we covered that here, all you need to swap Tamiya terminals is a very small flat-blade screwdriver or some other way to squish the connector tabs in.

I don't think there's quite enough space for that, although ideally I'll want some sort of adjustment there. For now, I've just gone with s-hopping the AEG barrel. Can't find my RTV, but I did rustle up some Sugrutm. Potatocam pics follow. I'll see how this works out. I might want to take more material off the flat section and replace it with sugru to create more lovely rubbery integrity.

100% agree. Spring change: M150 / 100N / Rapax 2J, be prepared to cut a few links or maybe buy some Rapax spacers to fine tune. Feed it something over 0.4g, and enjoy. Headshots centre mass all day long.

Verrrrry site and style dependent. Indoors CQB, I can shoot as few as a few hundred in a day, generally 0.2g. Outdoors sniping maybe 100-200 0.43g+ sniper shots and 500-1000 secondary BBs in 0.25g or 0.28g (I run an MP5K). Outdoor with a carbine, 1000-2000 of 0.28g, usually towards the lower end, but I'm a believer in aimed shots rather than... "Support gunners" can get through a lot, lot more.

Probably not do-able. It would have to be on the unit itself, and even an M3 x 3mm looks like it would project too far. It'll have to be fixed, and hope for the best. [UPDATE] Oh, on disassembly, the barrel actually has a flat (badly) milled or filed or chewed along the top surface. Here is is (top) beside a spare MP5K (?) AEG barrel. I'll start by putting a matching flat and circlip notch into that, and doing an s-hop patch for the window. If that results in spilled guts instead of glory then I can move on to wrecking the revolver barrel itself.

I'd want to keep the hop as far back as possible, since (in my imagination) you'd want to spin the BB up at the start of its linear acceleration, rather than putting an obstruction in while it's already moving. This is for an HFC HG-132 4" barrel green gas revolver which is already super weak. Also, there's not much barrel there to begin with. Dremel, needle files, and a devil-may-care attitude will be my allies. Oh, now I like that idea. Simpler and safer to centre-punch and drill a hole than to cut a slot, and it could be gradually enlarged until I run out of nerve. The actual rubbery bit I'd do with RTV silicon gasket maker. Put a silicone-oiled 5.5mm drill bit into the bottom of the barrel. Spooge RTV into the hole, and remove most but not all of the excess on the outside. Ideally leaving something like this (not to scale, or connected to achievable reality) Sadly not. The whole barrel moves forward to let the cylinder rotate, then back again to "seal" against the shellazines. Any hop would have to be entirely self contained on the barrel itself. Since we're doing nudey-pics, these are all the components that I have to work with, and where I reckon I could put a hole. The mark in front of it is an indexing indentation for the plastic sleeve/nozzle. As an alternative, I could dremel or file that all the way through into the barrel and spooge in there.

Or: why paintball, when airsoft is a thing? Do they think they wouldn't call their hits? I thought the Russkis were the baddies.

The barrel is intact with no window. It moves back and forth, so anything TDCish is out. Significant parts are a circlip against which the spring pushes, the sleeve / nozzle on the right hand side here which nestles into the (revolver) cylinder, and a keying ridge on top. I can't actually see any point to this at the moment since there's no hop, so it doesn't matter if it rotates. I'd need to retain that to keep it orientated. What I'm imagining is that I could remove the nozzle sleeve and cut a window in the barrel and s-hop it. I.e. put a 6mm drill bit inside to fill the barrel and gloop some silicone in to fill the window, leaving a slight bulge on top, which would then push the silicone into the barrel when the nozzle sleeve is put back in place. Obviously, it would need "tuned" by sizing the bulge on top. Waste of time, or an idea whose time has come?

You are, I'm sure Gun Jesus would love it.

Could be some splatgunz got in with those fUlLy lOaDeD OuT PlAtE CaRrIeRs that folks were mad keen on donating. But, yes, journos.

We never heard from OP again, they doubtless gave up on the idea. You can sell in the classifieds here: https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/category/8-gas-rifles/ If you're unable to post there, make a few comments to get past the spambot filter. Best of luck.

Now being used to farm dopamine on Gun Jesus Wouldn't Like This Faceache group.

Daily Mail Sadface Intensifies. Boys will be boys, we used to get up to much worse back in the day with actual air pistols, scrumping dinosaurs, and so on. But it's not back in the day, and gold isn't one of the colours in the 2007 regs. That's a RIF. Dibble should be looking into who sold it to her, or worse, to him. Tough on the lad, but the deck was already stacked against him. Where's his dad?

Another decent day at the very-CQB Biohazard. High intensity, not too much faffing around between games, and generally fair and good natured play. The newer upstairs area is great, with a killhouse maze in the middle that saw the bodies piled like cordwood. I'm surprised they don't make more use of that floor. The usual complaints regarding marshalling. Too much generic lecturing at briefings, too little enforcement in game. I got cheat called by a gobby grenadier who was adamant that I wasn't behind hard cover and so he must have got me. Every time I shot him, he came back and had another shouty moan about it. Unaware that there was a marshal standing right next to me who'd told me not to take his grenade hit. Funny up to a point, but she could hear him cheat calling and didn't do anything thing about it. Don't say it if you're not going to enforce it.

Seethe and cope, this is what peak performance looks like. That whole thing is put together to invoke screeching from purists: there are no Assault-Rifle-16 variants with a solid stock and short barrel, and yet it lives.

My tall-boi tribute to the latest operator fad for raised optics. Or: "You just went full Fudd. You never go full Fudd."

Oof, that'll go from too little to too much just by thinking of touching the wheel. The last thing I'd do there is to use a flat bucking. Maple Leaf all the way, get as much squish in there as you can. The arm from a ZCI rotary hop might fit. There's a spares kit available, although currently out of stock at AK2M4. Or, have you tried throwing the hop from your G&G in there to see how close the fit is? The flanges on the side of yours don't go as far forwards as on a ZCI V2 rotary, but files exist if the problem is too much material. On that, you could try to file a notch into the arm's bell end to hold a nub. There's not much there to work with, but with a small enough file and some precision and luck, an h-nub might be doable. If that goes wrong, you could just flatten it off and cut up a rectangular pencil eraser nub, the traditional pairing with a flat bucking from circa 2005 Reddit. I've done that with a ZCI rotary hop and it does work, hopping 0.28g just fine. It's a gamble though, and pointless now that Maple Leafs exist.

That just raises further questions. Do you have a picture of this hop arm? With a flat hop, you need a larger nub to press more of the bucking through barrel window. Examples: Or you can cut up a piece of pencil eraser or similar that just fits the barrel window. I'll stop guessing now and wait for more info.

So we're all on the same page, what exactly did you do to flat hop it? What bucking did you use? What nub are you using? What is it chronoing at with the hop off, with it hopped for 0.25g and 0.28g? When you look down the hop unit and barrel while winding the hop from minimum to maximum, can you see the bucking pressing progressively into the barrel? At minimum, is it only just visible? And out of interest, why flat hop rather than throwing in a Maple Leaf bucking and omega nub? I ask because I have done a successful pencil-eraser flat hop out of historical interest, but it's essentially pointless now that Maple Leaf is a thing.

Edited for brevity. I don't really disagree with you, but neither do I kid myself that we're going to see a return to facts-and-reason-based discussion. Demographics is destiny, and our trajectory is towards Idiocracy, not Star Trek. I'm just enjoying what's left of the ride.

There are no guarantees in airsoft, and little quality control. Everything is a gamble. Here's what I've found: 11.1V is the cheapest way to make your motor spin faster. Dumb brushed motors aren't complicated: the more voltage you put across the terminals, the quicker they'll spin. They'll also heat faster and wear out faster, but, meh, airsoft, pretty much everything is a consumable. Whatever voltage you're using, you'll want a battery capable of delivering the highest possible amperage (i.e. capacity * C rating). The one thing I am certain of is that you should never let the battery be the limiting factor or you'll put the heat there, and cook it. 11.1V and a £30 Big Dragon M140 motor from AlieExpress with an M100-ish spring (i.e. ~1.1J) gets me an auto fire rate that I wouldn't want to push any higher because of the risk of premature engagement, plus a decent semi auto response. However, if you make your motor spin faster by whatever means, you can then get overspin and double-shots on semi. This may or may not be an issue for you depending on your site and intended usage, especially if you can pop in a weedier battery just for chrono then restrain yourself on the field. Adding a mosfet with a pre-cock setting, e.g. a Perun AB++ takes care of the double-tap and improves the semi-auto even further. It also adds the option of bursts, and even of reducing the fire rate if you're over-cooked it. Some Specna COREs have an X-ASR mosfet, some don't, but it's only there for trigger protection, and mine gets in a sulk over current if I put even a Big Dragon M140 or M160 in, even on 7.4V. Sorry, I've no experience with motors in your price range.