Rogerborg

It's a good shout, I run my M4 as a DMR, or with a spring, barrel and barrel extension swap, as a CQB gun pretty much interchangeably.

Like, Madonna nasty? Bad things happen, but when avoidable bad things happen due to someone else's negligence, you do want there to be pockets deep enough to pay all your bills for months, years, or indefinitely.

I wonder what the costs for one-off liability cover is for them - and whether they're actually obtaining it. It seems likely that there would be both higher chances of injuries happening and more chance that they will be attributable to negligence, in a venue with minimal time and money invested in it. That said, I take it on faith that my regular venues actually have cover.

It should do, but airseal is king. I just wouldn't go throwing money at it. Get some silicone grease, and work on the stock parts. If you don't have a good seal, then you can stretch the stock o-rings by taking them off the piston / cylinder head, and stretching them over the cylinder. Apply some heat, or leave them there for a while. Or if your piston o-ring is suspect, BS910 o-rings (19.18mm ID x 2.46mm section) are very slightly bigger than the typical stock ones and can give a good seal.

The very cheap ones have no bells and whistles, but they are generally robust. They're built to run at around 1.5J, and are under-stressed when sprung down to UK limits. I'd have no concerns about reliability. As the de facto standard (just through volume of sales) you'll generally find aftermarket parts will work in them, if you do want to "upgrade" anything. I say "upgrade" as the best airseal that I have is on an £80 CM.516 with the stock plastic single-o-ring piston and plastic nozzle with no o-ring.

What makes a £150 gun worth £180? The flaking red paint? One he's taken it off with a wire wheel, it does at least raise a point: is swapping a RIF covered by VCRA S36? Hmmm. 🤔

Welcome to airs- oh, right. Everything that we've come to expect, from airsoft to Apple: "yOu mUsT Be hOlDiNg iT WrOnG." [and it's nothing new*]. Retailers know fine well that almost nobody is really going to see them in court, and that we'll grumble a bit then bodge it ourselves. In this case you could tap out new threads and replace the screws with larger ones, although you really shouldn't have to. That's what they should be doing, or replacing the gearbox if they can't retap them. What they almost certainly did was just screw them back in, maybe with a bit of loctite. You're past the short term right to reject, but two failed repairs wouldn't be reasonable. I'd get the gun back first in whatever form it's in, then assert that it's not fit for purpose, not of satisfactory quality, and that as it's within 6 months of purchase, the fault was there when sold. You'll need them to cover cost of having it repaired by an actual tech, e.g. Luke, or Kingdom of Airsoft, at something like £45 an hour, plus postage both ways, plus any parts up to and including a new shell. Then it's off down the usual track of letters before action, and whether you actually want to pay to initiate a small claim in court (which you can do online now). Best of luck. [*] H.G. Wells, The War in the Air, 1907 When the [defective bicycle] hirer returned, a heated pedestrian, Grubb would ignore all verbal complaints, and examine the machine gravely. “This ain't 'ad fair usage,” he used to begin. He became a mild embodiment of the spirit of reason. “You can't expect a bicycle to take you up in its arms and carry you,” he used to say. “You got to show intelligence. After all—it's machinery.”

You could do all of that, but you don't need to, just throw in the bigger spring and see how you get on. 1.88J isn't really that much for a gears-n-piston gun. In particular, I'd stick with bushings over bearings - you're just introducing a new point of failure. Shimming is always a decent shout, AOE / tooth removal, eh, you might as well, but you're picking up the piston at the point of least resistance so it's not like a heavier spring is going to radically alter what's already happening. I would focus on air seal, but with the stock components: replace and/or stretch the o-rings and silicone grease them. Other DMR owners will disagree in order to justify what they've spent on making the bestest DMR evarrrr, and they may even be right, but my rule of thumb is that if you change everything at once, then you'll have no basis for believing that any particular component added the magic.

You know, I have seen that on Facebook groups. OP sounds like he knows what he's doing, although granted I could go off on a rant about thinking and talking in Joules rather than fps.

Ahoy and welcome and yes. Given that we know these turn into shitfests, I'd wonder if some (not all) folk are going to them now to have a whanger weekend where the normal rules of airsoft (starting with the first one) don't apply. Either way, it's not something I'd rush to sign up for.

Ahoy, and welcome, and oof. That does sound like random air seal issues. There are loads of things that it could be, I'm sure you've checked some of them: Piston-to-cylinder seal. This is really down to the o-ring around the piston, I generally replace and/or stretch them, then lube with a little silicone grease. I'd check that the ports in the piston head aren't clogged with anything, but then you replaced the piston. Then the cylinder head o-rings: again, replace, stretch and/or lube. Nozzle: lube, and one possibility is that it's wobbly on the cylinder head. Pressure from the BBs can skew it and cause issues. If it's loose, you may be able to expand the cylinder head tube slightly by very carefully tapping a tapered swage into it - see Negative Airsoft's YouTube channel for this. Nozzle to bucking: is the hop unit being pushed back against the gearbox with a spring? Is the barrel secure in the hop, without forwards/backwards play? C-clips can be very vague.

bUt tHeY'Ve lIsTeNeD To tHeIr pLaYeRs aNd lEsSoNs hAvE BeEn lEaRnEd aNd iT WiLl bE DiFfErEnT NeXt tImE.

[Looks around for any site owners] More like 100 instead of 1,000.

Yes, that's a great price, especially if you're already paying postage on something else anyway. I was sceptical too, but haven't experienced any problems with them. Of course, it's possible that the only "bio" thing about them is the word on the bag, and manufacturers can go rogue at any time - looking at you ASG.

Ahoy and welcome.

Eh. Advert is honest[*] enough, and some folk might want to save £25 - £35 over retail in return for a warranty that probably wouldn't be honoured anyway because "clearly been used with the wrong colour of CO2, mate". [*] Although I'd raise an eyebrow at the claim that someone who does basically nothing but flip guns isn't effectively a retailer.

I use those particular Evolutions (0.28g bio), they've been fine so far.

True, but that's the retailer's contract with the manufacturer, which isn't relevant to the consumer's contract with the retailer, and our statutory rights regarding fitness for purpose, freedom from defects, and durability. Those lie with the retailer - any manufacturer support is a bonus. I'd be astonished if any UK retailer is actually sending broken toys back to the manufacturer. Maybe at the TaiwanGun level, but even PatrolBase just punts them on as boneyard guns. Anyway, to answer the original question: I can't think of many. Kingdom of Airsoft will sell you a new gun from a very limited range and a service for it, or a by-the-hour rate of £45. I wouldn't pay that much for someone else to work on a toy, but then I'd expect paying less than that to create more problems than solutions. PatrolBase don't list services, but they do a lot of tech work, so you could always ask. Again though, what quality are you really going to get from an assembly line?

Ah, I wonder if that's BBs in the feed tube pushing the nozzle up too hard. Luke at Negative put a video up recently showing the difference between a wobbly nozzle and a firm one (fnar) and suggested very slightly flaring the end of the cylinder head tube (inside the nozzle) using a swage to minimise the slop.

It's a technical limit, and you could probably live several lifetimes before finding anyone who knows, let alone cares. What you do with it is much more important, i.e. don't come to the attention of the State, and it will never be an issue. That said, I'm quite careful with mine, especially a bolt action sniper (with a 2.5J hard limit), because of the risk of falling foul of the Scotch airgun legislation. If you do want to limit a V2 gun to semi auto, it can be done by filing a small amount off of the selector plate to stop it disengaging the cut off lever. Always a good idea. I'd expect a stock hop unit and rubber to be able to over-hop 0.25g. That means that with the hop wound fully on the BBs should be arcing upwards initially. Then dial it off gradually until the trajectory starts to flatten out. When you get it dialled in just right, you should end up with a spookily flat trajectory, before the BB then rises just a little right at the end before dropping out of the air. Oh, it's always worth cleaning out the barrel and hop rubber on any new gun - hopefully yours came with a cleaning rod. Yup, I have to run with active braking on my JG G36 with 11.1V (and a Big Dragon M140 motor). I'm using a programmable Perun AB++, I'd hope that the NanoAAB would Just Worktm out of the box. One of the joys of the G36 is that you can solder the signal wire to the trigger tab outside the gearbox, no need to even open it up.

Ahoy and welcome.

Sure. 7.4V for reliability, that will generally perform as well as the 9.6V nimh that yours came with. You can try 11.1V to increase maximum ROF and semi-auto response at the risk of getting double-firing in semi, plus more wear on the components. I wouldn't sink any more money into nimh, and cheap chargers are the falsest of economies. We like the SkyRC range, and the S65 will do anything that you need. M100 or thereabouts, but everything in airsoft is approximate. It'll increase wear on the gears and piston rack. Yours seems to have a metal (I won't say steel) rack so go for it. Everything is replaceable if it does break. Your stock motor might start to struggle as you go heavier, you can then upgrade that, run it on 11.1V, or live with it. As noted, if it becomes capable of shooting any BB at over 1.3J on full auto then legally speaking it ceases to be an airsoft gun and becomes a Section 5 prohibited firearm. If it's only in this configuration on your property then that's a tiny, tiny risk, but it's not non-zero. Tight-ish. ZCI barrels offer decent value for money, and I've had luck with AOLS. As with everything in airsoft, changing a component may not result in an "upgrade" no matter how much you spend on it. As an FYI, that refers to the style, i.e. V2 is typically used in M4/M16s (and MP5s other than the MP5K). And there's no real standard, so one V2 gearbox might not be a drop in replacement for another, or take the same parts easily. However, I'm not aware of any particular quirks with the Cyberguns. The best airseal I have is on a sub-£100 CYMA with stock barrel, piston and nozzle, the piston and cylinder head o-rings stretched and greased, and some more ports drilled into the piston head. Again: spending more doesn't necessarily get you more. VFCs and Krytacs costing twice as much can break twice as fast. The best amount to spend for that purpose is zero. Or at most, shim and grease it, then see how it performs. Stock parts generally work well enough together. Once you start changing them out (I won't say upgrading) then you're adding unknowns and new points of failure. As above, the hop unit and rubber is where to start. I can't see any info on what hop unit is in yours, so it's probably an older style dial unit. Rotary units tend to work better, and the ZCI plastic rotary units are much loved - if you can find one in stock. Rubbers, the Maple Leaf macaron and omega nubs (e.g. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs/maple-leaf-macaron-60-nub ) are popular - not the clear silicone ones! - although everyone has their favourite, like Prometheus Purple or G&G Green. It's very much a case of finding out what works well in your gun. Feed it the heaviest BBs that it can lift. Through the magic of square-vs-cube physics, a heavier BB will come out slower but will go further, at the same muzzle energy. Also, ahoy and welcome to the money pit.

Sorry that it's let you down, and best of luck with the sale, but I would point out that you're going to be offering a non functioning pile of parts for not far short of the price of a new SSG-96, with a warranty. If you don't manage to find a buyer, and if you have the original parts, then you might consider putting it back to stock and selling it as a working gun, and the parts separately.

As apropos a time as any to recommend Lucifer as a jolly fun watch.

Ahoy and welcome. If it's been a gradual process, then I'd suspect the battery. But I'd diagnose rather than assuming. A basic £5 multimeter takes all the guesswork out of it. What are you charging it with? They come with the dumbest of non-balance USB chargers, and if you're going to stick with airsoft then I'd suggest getting something half decent like a SkyRC S65. I'm not 100% sure on the connector on that battery. It looks like Deans, but may be some weird variant. Do you have anything that you can use to test the voltage, both across the whole battery, and per cell via the balance cable?