Rogerborg

Solid performers, decent quality plastic, but zero bells and whistles, and hugely overpriced now compared to Specna Arms, Double Eagle, Lancer Tactical and CYMA equivalents.

I guess she found the receipt then.

tl;dr version: if you decide to go down the bolt action route, just buy a Silverback TAC-41, or SRS. They look expensive, but it's cheaper than finding out that trying to spend less means that you'll end up spending more. Also, ahoy and welcome to the wonderful world of airsoft "upgrading".

I have to know why it's on a teching bench, with some digital calipers. What's he being doing to it?

Ahoy, welcome, and no. No, no, and no. Airsoft uses 6mm plastic BBs in the 0.2 - 0.5g range, at about 1.1J auto, up to 2.5J for bolt actions. Please, please don't show up to show off some "home defence" gear that's legally spurious. Airsoft sniping is fun, but we can all put a crosshair on a target and pull a trigger. After that, it comes down to how well your toy gun is shooting, and the vagaries of weather and airsoft physics. You can forget holdover at airsoft ranges - the way airsoft hop works means that your BB will go pretty much straight, then plummet sharply. I don't mean to come across too harshly, just to be clear that in airsoft most of your shots are going to miss, and that you're there to take hits in good cheer, not to make them. If you come with that attitude, you'll be welcome anywhere and you're likely to find folk who are happy to help and support you. People have played airsoft in wheelchairs, or motorised 4x4 or 6x6 mini-tanks. Whether you can compete is going to be entirely dependent on your local site. Indoor CQB is a good shout, you can have a great time playing a slow walking game and covering choke points, and playing with a light SMG/PDW or pistol is viable. In woodland, you'll find a much wider variety of sites. Some of them are flat, dry and compact with loads of cover, some of them involve lonnnng slogs through swamps to engage and respawn. So please don't be disillusioned if you start out playing at one of the latter sites - other alternatives are available. Give it a try, you'll find that airsofters are a very welcoming bunch. Just ask someone about their guns and see if you can get us to shut up.

Only £185 to perhaps get a working, used, ratty example of £165 worth of brand new gnu + sight + case. Everything we've come to expect from "selling for a mate" flippers.

Sure, although that's a lot to drop on a plastic CYMA. I have a CM5xx, it's solid internally, but given the toytown plastics, I wouldn't spent much on it. It's more of a great starter/backup gun, or for trying out things like the grub screw method. The easiest and cheapest way to get an easier trigger pull is this... No, bear with me: middle finger trigger pull used to be taught by the FBI and police academies for "point shooting" with revolvers. There are solid arguments against it in real steel - weak grip, harder to maintain trigger discipline - which don't apply to airsoft AEGs. I'm a natural airsoft middle fingerer, and would recommend giving it a try.

This thread really needs pictures.

I'd avoid the low end CYMA CM5xx M4s. While the internals are fine, the plastic feels (and is) really cheap. When I say I have no regrets about getting one, it's more because it was a decent base to play around with internally and externally, and it's still in the backup-backup bag as a last-resort gun. As far as I'm aware, there isn't a bad budget G36. They all have a rotary hop unit, the length is fine for CQB or woodland, and I really like the ergonomics. The only downside is that the battery space isn't great, but it's not really a problem either: I run ~1400mAh block batteries and always change at lunch anyway. You can run G36 mags, or with a ~£10 magwell adaptor, it'll take M4 / STANAG mags instead. I'm happy with my Jing Gong G36C, it's my my go-to now. Based on a disassembly video, the CYMA looks essentially identical, and CYMA V3 gearboxen (as used in their AKs) are well regarded. That said, PatrolBase have an "Evolution Airsoft" for £10 more which has a microswitch (meh) and a quick change spring (nice). That's more of an unknown brand though. Might be worth a punt, you might want to stick with CYMA, but either way, I'd recommend it as a platform.

Well, I now generally play with a non-realistic fantasy lasergun, so there's that.

What would you like to achieve with the CYMA that it's not doing now? Do you want to run it as a DMR? True, they're not the best motors, but CYMAs sold in the US and EU tend to come meatier than in the UK. TaiwanGun, for example, reckons about 1.5J for the CM0.32... although GunFire says ~340fps / 1.1J, so, eh, who knows. Just noting that as an aside, I agree with the assessment that it's not like chucking a new spring into a Specna Arms M4.

It what I did, and I have no regrets. Actually, while I bought a two-tone, after a careful reading of the wording of the legislation, I've never played with one. Oh noes, is this going to be come a "wut starter gnu?" thread.

He's literally told buyers where to get them. https://airsofteire.com/ have the gun and mags in stock. Granted, it'll cost you £722 + shipping for the gun + mags, but I'd rather pay less for a new-as-new gun than spooge on the Magpul furniture. Still, as you say, if you have to have all that, and have it now, it's... well, it's for sale.

Ahoy and welcome. Mayyyybe. Going to lipo made a big difference to my CYMA AEP. They do actually work, and will put 0.2g far enough for most CQB site. The trigger response is never going to be as good as gas or a decent electric rifle though, so you're playing in Hard Mode. Waiting for your membership / UKARA is a good opportunity to blag a go on other guns - if you were at my local struggling with an AEP I'd take pity on you and throw a spare AEG your way.

Theoretical practical shooting.

Bingo. The best you can say is that he's shilling random plastic from both Evike and Amazon. Push off, there's a good grifter.

Thrown my tuppence in.

That was an excellent explanation, but the tl;dr version is: don't worry about it. Even the semi-auto reset position will be effected by battery voltage and amp supply, how cold the spring and how viscous the gearbox lube is, and whether you're dry firing, or actually shooting BBs to provide some back-pressure. That last one in particular is why it's not worth trying to "tune" for a perfect nozzle position unless you're doing it by shooting the BBs you intend to use with the hop set for them, and pulling the mag repeatedly. Airsoft is an inexact science, and while trick mosfets can give you a little more consistency, you really don't need them. If it cycles and shoots most of the time, it's good.

Yup, I spotted that. Presumably because it's the bestest motor evarrrrr! With a ~£30 Big Dragon M140 and 11.1V, I can shoot at 1.2J at the very limit of where a mag can keep up. That also strikes me when I watch some of Negative Luke's recent builds going braaaaap. "Nice, right?" Well, sure, dry firing. Now put a mag in, and let's see it putting BBs downrange at that rate without misfeeds.

Ahoy and welcome.

Using the @Cr0-Magnon strategy: "It's vintage".

'ow much? For a Krytac with a spring change, Titan and Warhead? Maybe a radiused gearbox. Not even a custom safe/semi only physical fire selector. How funny would it be to buy that, then rock up to your local site or a milsim and be told "No 5.56mm DMRs, mate, needs to be a real steel DMR calibre to shoot more than 350, mate."

Please do tell us more about what you're selling.