Rogerborg

It's quite the rush, isn't it? Great to hear that you enjoyed it, and now it's time to blow the lad's inheritance on toys.

Fair question. I've always mounted as far forward as possible, ideally level with the end of the muzzle, to eliminate shadows. Then it doesn't really matter what side it's on, although I'll generally go underslung which I suspect is just mild symmetry OCD. My MP5K has it lefty-mounted rather than righty, but that's only because I'm out of functional pressure pads and so am having to work it manually like some grunting Piltdown Man. But again it's so far forward that I've got the bell-end cable tied around the front sight to stabilise it, making the side largely irrelevant from a lighting point of view.

He really is a prize pumpkin. The legislation is surprisingly clear on this. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1968/27/section/57A (2)An “airsoft gun” is a barrelled weapon of any description which— (a) is designed to discharge only a small plastic missile (whether or not it is also capable of discharging any other kind of missile), and (b) is not capable of discharging a missile (of any kind) with kinetic energy at the muzzle of the weapon that exceeds the permitted level. Shooting glass, or steel, or lead, or depleted uranium from your airsoft toy doesn't automatically turn it into a firearm - what matters is that it was designed for plastic. Unless it comes out at over 1.3J / 2.5J. That's only likely to be a concern for over-volumed guns shooting heavy ammo. Given the density of glass or fused silica is in the region of 2.2 - 2.8 g/cm3 we're looking at 0.24g - 0.31g for glass, so not a concern given that we're already slinging 0.5g (or more) of "plastic" around the field. That actually concerns me more, in terms of elasticity and impulse.

I've formed the impression that there are people who only turn up in order to stand around at respawn pissing and moaning to anyone who will listen about all the CHEETARS that they dumped three mags into. So when I took a gun hit yesterday, I put my helmet on it and held it up above cover to give them something to shoot at and really complain about. Good, I'd like to see it to happen more often. If sites punted the worst player every day, what a hobby this would be.

I'd say some teenager holster-juggling his Glock in front of his mum's mirror for hours on end might give it a close run.

One of these fellows. I have no idea about pistols, I think it's some sort of Colt Python .357" Magnum PI inspired thing. I bought it because, well, I don't have a revolver, and I might want to use it in Very Hard Mode in Very CQB. Out of the box: Quality is mixed. The outer barrel is metal, and there are metal weights under the grips, giving it some nice heft. The frame is a decent solid plastic, I don't have any robustness concerns there. However, the grips are a cheap feeling hard plastic, there are too few points of contact with the frame, and too much free play in both the grips and the weights under them. No big drama, I've packed it with tape. The mechanism feels OK. The plastic cylinder is solid enough and the shells are metal. When flipped out, the hinge feels fairly robust, but I doubt you'll be doing that much, if ever, should you be inclined to field it - read on for why. The inner barrel and nozzle that keys into the shells is sprung to press it back and engage solidly, without making closing or rotating the cylinder too onerous. Initial range shooting: A disappointing and inconsistent 0.3 - 0.5J with either 0.2g or 0.25g on ASG ULTRAIR green gas at 15C - the minimum recommended temperature. The note in the box from Bullseye claimed 242fps on 0.2g (0.54J) with Swiss Arms 130psi gas at 14C. The energy inconsistency is reflected in shooting inconsistency too. It's 90% accurate, 60% of the time, but there are a lot of wild fliers. The rear sight adjusts for uppy-downy and sidey-sidey, although that's somewhat of a gimmick given the inconsistency. Some sellers claim there's a fixed hop. Nope, nothing, you'll need to lob beyond point-blank ranges. It's gas efficient and I put about 80 shots through it without refilling (or needing to). Bad Influence Airsoft tested its HG-133 sibling and saw 150 shots out of it. After investigation: On disassembly (careful now, the 4 screws are in 3 different sizes), it turns out that the gas is routed from the reservoir and valve up a channel on the inside of the frame, sealed by o-rings at top and bottom. They were essentially unlubed, and the frame side needs to be screwed on as securely as possible without stripping out the plastic in order to get a good seal. I've silicone lubed the seals now, or you could alternatively just spooge as much silicone as you like into the nozzle that feeds into the back of the shells - there's no hop to contaminate, so go wild. The excess will get blown out. Another issue is that the cylinder is rotated by a bar attached to the trigger. Cocking the hammer pulls the trigger partially back and raises the bar, but not quite enough to completely rotate the cylinder. Only when the trigger is pulled does it complete the last of the rotation and line up the shell, and it seems that it can still be slightly misaligned when it spurts. Cocking the hammer and then giving the cylinder a tiny nudge to get it fully aligned before pulling the trigger seems to help. Since the most effective way to use is pre-cocked, this isn't as onerous as it sounds. With it lubed and the cylinder aligned, I am now actually seeing the advertised 0.6 - 0.7J out of it. It's still not super-consistent and the lack of hop means it's still a short ranged plinker at best. Loading: Yes, the shells come out, and the shell extractor works well enough. There are no spares though, so doing so is fraught with hazards. At about £10-11 for another 6 shells, reloading via shells will get expensive, and you'll doubtless lose them as fast as you buy them if you actually try reloading in-game. However, it turns out that you don't have to. Just point the gun up at your face, and drop a BB into the front of each shellazine as you rotate the cylinder. You can press them in individually with a finger, but you don't even have to do that. Fill two, rotate, fill two, rotate, fill two, then do another complete rotation and the nozzle will push each BB back to exactly where they need to be. With practice, you can reload this thing in-game that way, and quicker than fumbling around with shells. So I reckon that if you actually want to skirmish with it, you'll never bother to actually open the cylinder. [Update] Play: The real effective range against a fully exposed target is maybe 40 feet. To be fair, HFC do list the range as effective/maximum 37/48 ft which is surprisingly realistic, although it lies about the hop and magazine so I suspect it's from the wrong gun or just random text. So is it useless? Well, no, not quite, and the most memorable kills I got with it were point-blanking folk in a killhouse. With the hammer cocked, you can get an effective close range shot off. However, the double-action trigger is so heavy that you're unlikely to get a second. This wasn't a problem in practice given the intensity of the action, and surprisingly, neither was the capacity. Most hits were trade-offs, I never lived live long enough to get through 6 chambers, and it can be reloaded on the way back to respawn. It's daft to try and use it versus just about anything else, but this is a daft hobby, and I had fun with it in that specific situation. tl;dr summary: It's a working revolver, it shoots BBs about as far as a cheap springer or (unhopped) AEP, and you can just about skirmish it. For £53 plus postage, I'm happy enough with it, although (e.g.) an AA R17 can be had for much the same money and will outshoot it all day long.

<them-feels-bro.png> We know, it's ridiculous. Particularly when air guns that look identical to either the real steel and the airsoft version can be bought and sold without any sort of loicence or defence; or you can buy a two-tone airsoft IF plus a rattle-can of matt black from Poundland if you have stick-'em-up intent and don't know that air guns exist. Given the attitudes to anything remotely gun related, and the gradual legislative creep towards prohibited-by-default and prove-your-innocence, it's a wonder that we're still permitted any of the above. I'm just enjoying it while it lasts, and It's not rocket surgery to find ways around the UKARA wait.

That sounds like a smart technique, although I'm surprised that it's necessary. Given that you can pop a 10mm ring spanner over the nozzle nut, I was able to use that to push down and then screw it in without any problems with a 100N spring. That said, it's entirely possible that the Rapax is longer and fightier. I was going to buy one (they're back in stock at skirmshop), but the 100N is performing just fine and the bolt pull is already pleasant.

My "iron" sights are hacked out of EVA foam, and my new secondary is a revolver. Oh, yeah, HFC HG-132 arrived today. Fun, in very short bursts. The plastic grip isn't secured that well, and the claimed energy levels for the 4" barrel version are hugely optimistic. I'm seeing 0.5J, barely above AEP levels. Consistency is meh too, not even 12" at garage ranges, making the adjustable rear sight a bit of a gimmick. Apparently it's got a fixed hop but whether it does, and what it might hop, remains to be discovered. Still, it's a revolver, it's a little better than a springer, apparently very gas efficient, and you can load from the front of the cylinder fairly quickly rather than dumping the shells. Any hit with it should be a "Yass!" moment.

They were out of stock when I was buying, so I don't have the Rapax. What's the specific problem that you're having? If the bolt isn't locking back after the spring is in, this might be down down to the stopper not being aligned with the flat facing forwards.

Another corker at Area-66. The briefings were more traditional (i.e. over-complicated and under-explained), marshalling was the usual lackadaisical affair, but the mood was great, the play was fair, and the smiles-per-minute was off the chart. I was wearing my Astra Militarum gear for the first time outdoors, so a new bunch of folk got to go "Ooh, is that what I think it is?" or "The planet broke before the Guard did!". My G36C / "lasgun" crapped out completely: the motor totally disengaged, the fire selector popped off, the anti-reversal stopped anti-reversing, and the hop stopped hopping. But the Machine Spirit was beseeched and all was sorted over lunch. In the meantime, the TAC-41 was busted out and wow, headshot after headshot. Like a WuTube video, without the fakery. Then I came home to find my new HFC HG-132 revolver had been delivered from Bullseye, days earlier than I'd expected. So much win today.

I'd go for nose protection, it's not like it's going to deflect much breath upwards at your eyepro. Depending on what guns you run though, I'd caution against full mesh as you may not be able to get your eye in line with the sights or optic. For M4s, a mesh-fabric mix like the OneTigris inspired masks work better. For pistols or if you're running a rail riser, sure, full mesh all day long.

I got mine - in beige, the best colour - largely because I hadn't seen many others around. Then my local site of course switch them them as rentals. I'll not wax too lyrical. The two-piece V3 trigger is always going to be vaguer than a single piece V2. That contributed to mine locking up fairly easily on semi with the mediocre stock motor: plenty of cut-off-lever locks that needed an auto burst to clear them, and also a couple of a hard locks where the motor stalled out completely with the spring fully compressed. But with the motor upgraded and learning not to try and semi-spam too fast, it's run flawlessly. The rotary hop is pretty decent, and it feeds well off of M4 mags via the adapter. It takes upgrades easily enough, and here's the kicker: I've never opened the gearbox. Not once, even to shim it. You can solder onto the external trigger tabs, and I just spooged some chainsaw oil into the bottom half and silicone oil into the cylinder, and it's run sweetly. "Workhorse" isn't too unreasonable a description.

Could be down to objective reality versus perception. With RC racing, you can't kid yourself that your toy is the fasterest ever when it gets left in the dust over and over. With airsoft, every laser-shot out to 150m is definitely a hit, and it's just those OMG CHEETARS that keep your confirmed kill count down to numbers that humans can conceptualise.

Frankly, I think all P-90s should be P-Chans. It's the least gopping incarnation of them that it's possible to achieve.

You'll need to tell that to the guns that I'm using which have Maple Leaf bucking but whatever random nub, or bit of wire or biro tube that I've thrown in there. The omega nubs work well and can help to lift heavier BBs, but I wouldn't call them essential.

Oh, sorry, I totally missed this. Hopefully you've got it sorted by now. If not, then you need to remove the C-clip that holds the barrel in place. The barrel will then pull it. It may be a bit sticky, but it'll come out, possibly leaving the bucking behind. I'd suggest lifting out the hop arm and removing the nub before removing the barrel. If you wind the hop all the way off, you can sometimes get the barrel in and out without displacing (and potentially losing) the nub, but it's best to be sure by removing it before you take the barrel out, and putting it back after you replace the barrel and bucking.

I know cynicism is the UK national hobby, but really, isn't it great to see a site runner actually planning the best experience, rather than just muddling through?

Google maps link for those wanting to play along.

I'm off work and putting more coats of paint and wax on my Space Soldier costume, so this is done during drying downtime. Well, that's my excuse this week.

It's the closest to one that sellers have got, although a Home Office circular phrased as little better than an opinion by some rando is very thin gruel. Er, purchase and private possession isn't an offence. If you can get your hands on it, job done. Or modify an IF into a RIF. Yup, and I'd argue that since the permitted activity is future use that having game days booked satisfies that intent more than having played in the past.

Now I want a Folcon with a Gunbody and a Metal Forearm.

God was knocking, and he wanted in bad.

FTFY. Gentlemen, this is peak performance. Y U NO puttee tho?

Ye can wi' a Cannae Drive. Given the entirely imaginary results from it, I suspect that it's based on Tokyo Marui technology.