mightyjebus

yeah, I'm upping the infill to 100% and I'm using bolts.

update on the grenades, I had 3 break, friends steal 5, had one go off in my hand killing 9 of my teammates which was a comedy gold moment and generally they performed as well as I hoped they would. I'm going to knock up another load (and increase the infill on the parts that broke). they cost about £1 to make and I can't fault them.

I found that by flipping the spring over (i.e. what was at the top is now at the bottom) fixes that issue. I ended up printing 10 of them and I also found that my Quake impact deadly customs holder is a good fit.

So the parts arrived and I fitted the new diode and amp and.... it still doesn't work but it's not all bad news. I can connect a battery and go into dry fire mode and it happily flashes blue however as soon as I pull the trigger in either mode it turns solid red. I stripped it back down and I found that one of the mosfets has a short between source and drain. I think I missed that when checking the board. I've ordered some however it's from Aliexpress and no where else seems to have the SM4391NSKP mosfet even listed on their site. When they turn up I'll replace all 3 and see what happens. On another note, I found that if you get a solid red light followed by 3 quick red flashes then you have a motor issue.

Building a load of these impact grenades. It cost's about £1 to make and they work flawlessly. big shout out to the original designer (FULCRUMAIRSOFT) and the files can be bought here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/airsoft-micro-grenade-impact-cap-gun-ring-sound-grenade-meteorite-meteor-lite-e-fulcrumairsoft

weirdly I ordered some UMY1NTR's when I ordered the other blown diode replacement. I'll fit them both when they arrive and update. might be useful for other people that have a blown ECU.

ok, still can't identify the mystery Y1. I traced the tracks on the faulty board and below are the results. pins 1 & 3 are chained together and end up at the programmable PIC16 IC. Pin 4 is ground and pins 2 and 5 go to the Gates on the Mosfet. I think pins 1&3 enable Y1 which puts a voltage on the mosfet gates allowing the mosfet to pass current. Basically when you pull the trigger, pin 28 goes high which tells the mosfets to fire via Y1. This also makes sense with the 3 round burst as the PIC will be programmed to stay open on pin 28 for a time duration (3 rounds worth). Could Y1 be an amplifier?

No but I've got another MP5 here. I'll plug a battery in and see what's happening on the pin-outs of the 5 pins.

buggered if I can find a 5-pin Zener. It's off the MP5 ECU and probably only needs to handle the TM 7.4v lipo so I'd imagine the 9v would work if I could find one

Anyone good at identifying SMD components? I think this is a transistor but not 100% sure if it is and what type it is. Any help would be appreciated.

I think the person with the most confirmed hits or the biggest gun collection should represent airsoft, not some bunch of blokes who feel important enough to start their own "body" and like John Snow, know nothing.

Doing a bit of maintenance and thinking about adding some Mosfets: Classic Army DSA FAL King Arms FAL Para JG DSA FAL

anyone know the WELL airsoft homepage. my googlefu is simply awful today.

A couple of additions. G&G FAR9 - basically a folding ARP9. It works with Classic Army midcaps which is a bonus. Other addition is the Well PPK20 Pro. It's basically the new Russian version of the PP-19. The Well version is pretty much all polymer so lightweight and the trigger response is really fast. Add to that an insane auto of about 25bb per sec makes for a pretty cool little AEG. If plastic isn't your thing then Arcturus are bringing out a metal receiver version some time this year. Oh and the ambi selector should be put on every AK from now on as it's a great idea.

They did and I've said before that I think this is the best AEG TM have made so far. It will be interesting to see where TM go with the design. I'd imagine a MP5K is on the cards with a stupid battery option in the front grip and hopefully after that a G3 recoil. TM have a history with making G3's so I can see them going down the G3 route again hopefully.

why don't you call it the Smokey Wolf Mk2 since, internally,it looks to be exactly the same as the Smokey Wolf I have here.

I picked up the 10W Elegoo Phecda for £185 from their website. it seems a bit pricier now at $385 but I'm sure it will go on sale again soon.

bought myself a new toy for Xmas and just trying out a few things. Still trying to get to grips with using a Laser Cutter/Engraver but it seems promising.

I had an evike shipment arrive to the UK the other day.

Lambda GHM9 in all it's plastic glory. Metal receiver and metal front end ordered from Asia and will be fitted once they turn up.

If you UKARA/Site Membership isn't valid then get the site to provide a email or letter with your game days over a 12 month period along with a copy of the Sites public Liability Certificate. This is enough for Border Force. The letter from BF should state they are seizing but also offer options for why it might be released.

had a look at the A4 this weekend and they have removed the wiring from the front handguard and put the wiring for the battery in the full stock. plenty of room in there for a big battery. Downside is you can't easily swap out the stock for something that folds without rewiring the AEG.

with the white marker on the fire selector facing the pistol grip, pry up the selector while pulling the trigger. The 2 red flashes means the ECU is dead. A diode sits across the + and - inputs from the battery and if reverse wired blows. Problem with the original A5 board was it took too long to blow and caused all sorts of IC's to blow. The SD has a newer ECU design and might be salvageable as I've not played with one yet. The diode is replaceable but it's really a question on what else has blown. Spare ECU's aren't available from TM as they class it as a factory item, meaning the AEG needs to go back to the factory for repair (I got WGC to ask them about spare ECU's). Occasionally Impulse101 sell complete lowers and this is probably the only way to get it working again if the ECU is totally goosed. I've got an original ECU here which I'm trying to reverse engineer to see how much it would cost to get made.

I like it when a plan comes together...finished results

Been teaching myself Fusion 360 after too many years working with Sketchup. Not bad for my first project and it's on the printer now (it's a MP5SD5 Foregrip with Picatinny rails built in for the TM MP5SD5 NGRS)