Iceni

Augs can actually be modified without stripping the gun to have a single fire mode. You just need to grind the plastic safety bar to catch the trigger on a half pull, then make a V notch in the bar so it will lock on the metal shim in that location. Takes about 30 mins to make the modification with a small V file and a scalpel. You take off the upper receiver, pull the trigger to dry fire a single shot and mark it on the trigger plate then release. This gives you the measurement for the amount of material to remove from the safety bar. You cut a chunk out of the upper side left of the bar the same depth as the measurement, put the bar back in and move it while pulling the trigger to find where the bar needs to sit in the hole. Then you mark the point where the metal retainer clips dent is sitting and file the V at that point on the safety bar. When you put the bar back in you will have a new locking point on the safety that only allows single fire, and you still have single and full auto in the original position. The Aug is a nice gun if you spend time on them. Out of the box you get a reasonable gun that is really loud to use because of where the gearbox sits. A bit of time and some padding you can make them very quiet. The gun itself has a lot going for it, nice optic on the A1 and it comes with the gun (can't be removed). Good inner barrel length 509mm, Almost stock v3 gearbox. The only special bits are the airseal nozzle and a second set of contacts for full auto. In terms of parts availability, nothing is really special with them. A new plastic body can be bought if needed, all of the body pins are available, even the ejection port covers arn't hard to find and they tend to be petty cheap. Gearbox wise you can buy a full aug box or a V3 and put the old airseal and contacts on it. It's not modified in a way that means it's a gun specific gearbox at all. New uppers are also available. And there is nothing to go wrong on the trigger as it's a plastic slider with a spring. All of the mechanical parts of the trigger are on the gearbox. The main fault with the Aug is the noise, Your head is resting on the gearbox, the a1 style front grips are poor and some of the aftermarket magazines are poor feeders. Outside of that there a decent enough purchase, easy to strip and work on. It's 2 screws and the slackening of 1 bolt to have the whole gearbox and motor out. 1 bar to have the whole upper receiver off with the barrels and hop. If you had a full spare gearbox you could swap it out in 2 minutes.

Right little update. I stripped and rebuilt the gearbox. (several times!) New full cylinder, m90 spring, shims, Silent head and piston head, solid brass spring guide. On the m90 the gun is shooting 295fps. It's right where it is expected to be since it's running without any spacers on the piston or spring guide. And the new spring guide is a lot thinner at the base. The spring guide came with a plastic 5mm spacer, and there should be a bearing on the piston head that looks to sit very proud, Had I left them in the fps could be up to 320-330 ish. I may test this because 330 is ideal for me. I may get some stainless rod and make some spacers so I can dial the m90 to spec. The single shot has been stripped to the contacts, removed from the gearbox, it's had the trolley polished and cleaned. When I rebuilt it the contacts were out by a fair margin so they got fettled. I also dropped the auto contact to be a touch lower, and filed the housings and trigger stop so full auto has more in-swing and a larger distance between single shot and auto. I've ground the safety to add a single shot setting. Padded some of the internals. The larger side walls, the sides of the magwell, the rear pressure plate and the handgrips. On rebuild this has removed a fair bit of noise but there is room for improvement. It's also 100% fixed the play in the upper receiver, and made the body pin a lot tighter. The body pin has had the top leading edges filed, This makes it push better when you slide it to a locked position. So far the gun feels 100% better, single shot is working well, and is selectable. The gun is pretty consistent on the m90, and it's not slapping so hard. The padding wedged into the handgrip has reduced a lot of the vibrations (I did both the front guard and handgrip). I've also removed one of the dendents from the trigger to make the auto setting smoother now that single shot can be isolated. Jobs left: Rewire with 30 amp multicore and the mosfet. m90 spring tuning. More padding. My bike grease is working well on the gears, but I got some frog lube for the cylinder. The only thing I've broken is the dust cover under the trigger. I figure that bit is mostly for Ak's that have an open trigger at that point so I may not even replace it.

Right I've picked up some grease. I got 125ml for £5.99. http://weldtite.co.uk/products/detail/cycle-grease-with-teflon-tube-150ml I'm soaking some O-rings in it now to check for any swelling or embrittlement. As far as I can tell it's a mineral oil and teflon based formula. So it should be good for gears and safe with nitrile o-rings, Definitely not safe on rubber o-rings tho. The reason for going to a racing bike grease is simple. It meets a lot of the criteria for airsoft, whilst also have a big industry that has plied research and money on the problems they face. The grease they use for the gear cassettes, wheel bearings, and cranks has to work well. Has to have low friction but also stick to steel, Needs to be highly water resistant, And has to function at great speed. You don't always thing about cycle mechanics but a racing bike at 40Mph is doing 18M/s on a 70c rim that's about 9 revolutions a second. So racing grease is good stuff. I've also picked up the padding for the shells. I couldn't get the self adhesive type without putting it on order, but I found some nice mid desitiy floor matting, It's about 3mm thick and has a woven inner core. And some industrial grade double sided tape. I'm going to start cutting and fixing it later this week.

Yeah the spring was under full tension, Teeth all checked both on the piston and the sector gear. It even has a nice final metal tooth on the piston. The whole thing looks like new bar the grease taint so that is good to go back in. It was the JG piston and head. Flat poly piston head, Poly piston, Counter weighted with the spring lock. I was already looking at the element V3 head set so I'll keep the piston as it was in good general condition, and replace the heads. I'll remove the bearing on that upgrade part as I don't like bearings under shock loads. The element set sits in a good position price wise, and should help with the piston slap as well. I'll lock everything up with threadlock on the rebuild, as for swiss cheesing it I'm not running the gun at a silly ROF so it's not needed. If I wanted ROF then there are better base guns with bigger battery capacities, shorter inner barrels, and less movement on components. Might be a future project building an MP5 or P90 to do that. Been a Yorkshireman by birth BB consumption or rather the lack of it is more of a concern atm. Less BB's of a higher quality on target, Win Win. With an oem spring that has been using the piston spring lock thingy can I just clip and file the extra bit off the spring or is it advisable just to add an M90 and forget the OEM one even existed. I have a chrono so I can test away, I may also see if My friends have a spare M90 or similar for the rebuild so we can gauge it from a known point rather than an OEM unknown. Once I get my parts sorted I'll start to rebuild. This weeks mini project will be the shells. I'll get the trigger blocks out split it to nothing and start to work out where padding can go.

This is going to open a whole world of pain. I have no idea what the gun is going to do once it's got a full cylinder in it! I suspect the ROF will decrease by a huge margin as the piston was previously running without any back pressure! So my ROF will go back to where it should be. The FPS will rise, but by what margin is anyone's guess! I'm suspecting the gun will be do hot after this I'm going to have to strip it again and take a trial and improvement method on spring to get it to rights! I just measured the cylinder that came out. 22mm from the hole to the head. That's an Mp5 cylinder lol! There is no wonder the gun was doing crazy things! How those BB's were not just rolling down the barrel, and how it was getting 270FPS is my mind blown. The only thing I can think is the grease must have been holding back a lot of the air, or the spring is something industrial. I'm going to have the be very careful when I put that spring back in! Teeth and piston have already been checked, There both full sized and have been travelling the full length of the cylinder. So that is at least something I don't have to replace.

You guys are going to love this. Stripped the box to have a peek. It's only got a 50% cylinder in it.... Whacking great hole staring at me. The guy who sold it to me must have had it on the closed side of the box to keep the FPS up for sale lol! The box looks good apart from that!

I don't think it's touching the top of the box at all. The bottom is locking in well but the plate just drops onto the top seating without any pressure. There are various mods. The one I was looking at uses scotch pads as a backing material on the plate. They have enough compression to push without affecting the seating angle of the gearbox. The other options involve sorbo. I'll have to be careful with this mod as too much pressure will affect the plates screw mounts and there only small. The problem is how to make any modification solid enough for rough use. I suppose cable ties and shim with a couple of holes would be the simple solution. Realistically removing those lugs all together and mounting an internal metal system that is bolted to the shells might be better. It's certainly something to think about in the future and provided it is done thoughtfully it should look right. It would involve making some outer plates for over the shell with counter sunk bolts, and then welding nuts to whatever I decide to use inside the shell. Placement of such a system might be problematic with the ejection port baffles on top of the gearbox. The other thing I may do if the bolt and ejection ports do pose a problem is pick up another rubber port grommet. And remove the baffles from the top of the gearbox. Then upgrade the bolt slide internally. If I don't have to slide back the covers to get to the hop I can make the whole bolt slide more solid and provided it has at least 10mm of travel backwards it will still function to lock the barrel. It'll also sort out the bolt handle wobbling and been a point of failure.

I suspect the motor is running fast due to the poor airseal. It doesn't look like the stock motor but it has no branding, I've done the RPS with 2 chronos now and both times it was over 20. My own element E1000 gives 23RPS, the xcoretech on site was saying 21RPS so I have no reason to doubt those numbers. And in a short game the gun will happily eat a 330rnd high cap when only using short bursts. I'm actually thinking I need more 170rnd MAG mags as the 2 I have are simply not enough!

Thanks for that. It's defiantly the contacts that are having the problems, I took the gearbox out last night to check. All the trigger does is push back on a block with a spring and den-dent. Even on the naked box you can make it misfire on single shot. It's a common fault on an unprotected lipo, I just wasn't expecting it to show after a couple of games. The Aug having separate contacts for single and auto means it's actually pretty easy to fault find. I suspect when I open the contacts out I'll either have a warped contact or arc blackening. Even if I have to fashion new plates that is not a hard problem to sort out for good. The truck is still working as intended so it has to be the simple fix. The airseal is another matter. I'll only know once I get it open and can see what the deal is with the internals. It's on the stock white nylon bushings atm so they have to go. I'm not risking them oval-ing and taking out the gears for a £10 modification. Same goes for the spring guide, It would cost me more to replace the other parts if it fails than to just put a more durable on in from the off. I'll have it in bits so I'll pre-empt the failure and replace it before it becomes a problem. Motor wise the motor is decent enough. It's pushing 23 rps, and I'd actually like it to be slower. She burns ammo without a reliable single shot. The airseal should reduce it a little but I see not point in swapping the motor out when the one I have is more than enough. I did almost 3K bb's last game, and realistically I'd like that to be 1K or lower. Don't worry about the pricing of parts. I'm not spending more than the gun is worth. I'm happy with the Aug as a gun and system. I like the fact the gun is an open design, The internals have room, the parts are interchangeable without needing anything special, And provided I can get it constant with a decent range I'll be more than happy with the system. I don't think that is ever going to happen. The model I have is an A2 with added bits. The real A3 is 100% different and I don't have the tools needed to cut and lower the top rail, then CNC out a new front end. You can make it look better with the blanking plates but it's still not an A3 it's a tarted up A2. At some point one of the companies might start to produce the correct upper receiver, when that happens the conversion to a real A3 would be possible, but cutting something up just because it ircs you isn't the right way to modify a gun. If the A3 I had bothered me that much I would have got the A1 or A2 wariant to begin with. Those models however have a feature I saw as been a model failure. The front hand grip is a weak point and if the small lugs it attaches to fail then you have an expensive repair (new upper reciever $50 evike) to make the gun right again. The A3 whilst looking wrong can use a more solid front grip and the added sound absorbing materials should rebalance the weight.

Hey I'm starting my Aug rebuild from stock. The base model is the ASG Aug A3. It it the non mosfet early model. The work-up is to make a gun capable of using 7.4 lipo's. Be reasonable accurate, Have better than stock range. And be more durable. The gun itself was purchased second hand. It has a few purchase issues, That will be worked out with the rebuild And this thread is to make sure parts and theory crafting are correct. The work will be done by me. And it will be a learning curve. And issues I will read, re-read, and find information before I make a silly decision and create more problems. External modifications. A new shim for the body pin is needed. The ASG original one is bending under stress and doesn't have the spring in the material to hold shape under tension. Meaning the body pin falls out when moved from the locked position. I still have the original so I'll template it out and make a new one with better steel. I have a decent propane torch so I'll heat the steel to red, make the bends, then re temper the steel. Taking it to red quenching, then back to blue. I'll drill it with a diamond ball tool. Should give me the correct level of spring and make a durable part. Shell sound damping. Either sorbo or car speaker damping. I'm thinking the car stuff might be better as it will give the gun more rigidity whilst damping the gearbox. I'll have to have the shell split to sort this out so I'll use the same product on the magwell to reduce BB's dropping into the body. The gearbox retention plate needs shimming, and a metal contact strip making to spread load. Barrel modifications. From stock, Madbull 6.03 and a Madbull hop rubber. I know there are better hop systems out there but this has to be something I can do without too much effort. These seem like the best compromise on price to performance. And will be replaceable in the field should I do something silly. The hop itself will be polished to have the internal mould lines removed. Gearbox Electrical. Because of the lipo and the fact it has already made single shot unreliable I have to do a few modifications here. Home made NB mosfet (already made). Rewire with 30 amp wire. I need to amp test my motor and see what the total draw is. A future modification may be the removal of the replaceable fuse for an automatic breaker but not atm. I need to clean and re-bend the single shot truck contacts. Depending on the lipo damage I may have to replace contacts as well. If this is the case I'll template out the contacts and make new ones in thicker brass. Gearbox mechanical. New bushings. 7mm Stainless steel with a re-shim. Silent head and piston. (It slaps pretty hard atm, and the piston and head are more for my ears than anything else!). Re-grease. Tooth removal from piston New spring guide to a metal one. Polishing of the gear mesh, and casings. The air nozzle needs new grease, and a check of the seals. I suspect it has no grease, and is giving a poor seal. If I find this to be the case then there are o-ring variants available that should clear up the problems. I understand that the aug is problematic on this particular part. The gun last chrono was at 270fps. I suspect the air nozzle seal is poor so that will need to be addressed, The single shot is intermittent so that needs fixing. I don't think the gun needs a new spring. I think the low FPS is air leaks. So I'll fix the air problems before I look at a spring upgrade. I did have a good chat to an Aug man at my local site. He runs 3-4 bodies with 3-4 different set-ups. They all work really well. I didn't get some information I needed from him but he can be called at any time if I need the specialist aug parts. He also showed me a selector mod for the safety that I may implement.

For that model I would add some of the GW washes to the skin to give it some tone. Reikland Fleshshade And to the pouches to give a little definition. Agrax Earthshade Most of the work on that model is decals. Once you get the right chemicals they go on really well. Micro Sol and Micro Set are the 2 best products you can buy for any project. When you use them with a hair dryer on a gloss finish decals will look painted. Then kill the shine with some flat clear coat. Glue wise, I like brush on glues, I have a super thin Tamiya and a thicker revell contacta, The brush makes applying them cleaner. And to fill cracks I've used a lot of products, Green stuff, liquid green stuff, Miliput super fine. But the one that works the best is Perfect plastic putty by deluxe materials. All my weathering is either GW washes or Humbrol weathering powders. The GW stuff is easy, The powered less so but you can apply and fix it with decal set allowing you to build, smear, or wash with them. All the paint is Revell Aqua color. And I apply it either with a brush, or a cheap airbrush kit. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Microscale-BMF128-Micro-Sol-solution/dp/B0006O9K5Q Micro sol http://www.amazon.co.uk/Microscale-BMF129-Micro-Setting-Solution/dp/B0006O9K4W Micro set http://www.amazon.co.uk/Deluxe-Materials-Perfect-Plastic-Putty/dp/B0076LAVFK Perfect plastic putty https://www.expotools.com/acatalog/AB603-Expo-Airbrush-Deal-AB605.html Airbrush kit

This is the last one I did. Typhoon 1B. Italeri kit I think. The next one on the block is either a Trumpeter BF109, or one of the Airfix club BF109's. I have both kits already it's just a case of inspecting the plastics and deciding on how much detail I want to paint.

Might be well off the ball here but what about the L85 AFV http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/product_info.php?products_id=6878 It's never going to be a high cycle gun because of the blowback, but it will clack rather nicely. It's mostly metal including the body unlike most bullpups. And it has a far better inner barrel length than most of the CQB guns. It also uses M4 mags. And comes with a red dot sight that is shaped like a SUSAT. The big problem with them is to change the battery you need to unscrew someparts and it only has a small battery compartment. But you could just use a battery enclosure on the side.

Email them with the picture, and tell them there not fit for purpose, site will reject them. Hopefully they will just send you another pair.

Tell them it's the only thing keeping you from joining the army. It'll twang every pacifist nerve they have. Job done.

I'd avoid it. It's outdated a little and not really a gaming machine. The CPU is probably an overclocked 4300. Nothing special about it. It's the bottom of the AM3+ lineup £40 cpu with some tweaking to core speeds. The R7 240 again is a budget component. You wouldn't be playing many games at full graphics on it. It's a £40 graphics card. The ram will be the cheapest DDR3 they can get hold of, and the same with the motherboard. £30 for the ram, £40 for a motherboard. Hard drive £35. DVD drive £10 Cheap china Keys and mouse £20 (it's probably a Nemesis Kane pro set) Cheap speakers £10 Cheap monitor £80. Cheap case with PSU £25. All retail prices from novatech. £330 retail. http://www.novatech.co.uk So even on base price it's not a good deal. And it doesn't even have an operating system. My advice to non savy PC users is get one made from a reputable company. I like novatech they have good customer service. This barebones system. http://www.novatech.co.uk/barebonebundles/view/bb-44608a.html Intel Core i5 4460 - 8GB DDR3 1600Mhz Customise it. Add the corsair carbide spec 01 case G.Skill RipjawsX 8GB GeFore GTX 750Ti 2GB And stick the hard drives and optical drives from your current PC in it, and reuse your current version of windows. £475.67 (atm prices are volatile).

You've got the grange, It's a small local site. Not the best site in the world but it's not bad for a day of care free skirmishing. The advantage to the grange is it has a well stocked professional shop that stocks a good range of guns and parts. They tend to do a full day 9am - 4-5pm. You get a meal with the walk on fee and free cofee and tea all day. The games tend to be 30mins with team rotation. So yellow attack for 30 mins, then the same mission but yellow defend. The games are fast to organise and start and generally you get a pretty packed organised day. It's the site I use to keep my Ukara, as it is local, has a shop, and you can pretty much just walk on without needing to know the other players. http://shop.suspensionofdisbelief.co.uk/ Map https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/The+Grange/@52.384388,-1.6613377,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x4870b5ce4b38ada9:0xb9c8e4dc7c07d0a5 The other site I go to from Coventry is Fireball in Bassets Pole. The site is fantastic, It's dense woodland, with a few buildings and a well organised team running it. The site has a shop but it is basic, selling BB's, Pyro and a few other items but the stock changes. Fireballs games are much harder than the grange. They don't do short games. It tends to be multiple objectives and continuous play until lunch. With the terrain and the fact the better players all tend to go on the same team it can be a touch frustrating to play there, but once you get in the swing of the site you will find out it's a really fun place to play, where concealment, silence and avoiding the paths pays dividends. The fireball access is also closed during game time due to the adjoined paintball site using the road. So you have to be there early, and you can't leave until the game is over. It's generally not a problem game wise but it does mean no half days, or just going and having a chat to the players. http://www.fireballsquadron.com/joomla16/ Map https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Fireball+Squadron+Airsoft+club/@52.5905416,-1.7767918,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x4870af467f8a387b:0x5d2fbd8a7b3ee63d I would recommend both sites. If you don't have a car The Grange can also be got to via train to Berkswell then a 1/2 hour walk to the site.

MP5 with a remote double bollock mag. http://www.evike.com/products/29150/ That mag will auto wind when the gun fires.

Type 95 sas smok with the wired hood. http://www.thearmystore.co.uk/acatalog/British-Army-DPM-Windproof-Smock-Grade-1.html http://www.britishmilitarysurplus.co.uk/shop/jackets/dpm-windproof-smock-grade-1-1123346.html The hoods have an inner draw string to get it to stay on your head, and the wire outer rim lets you shape it. They zip right up to your mouth, and are wind and rainproof in all but heavy rain. They also keep you nice and dry when your on the deck prone. The one thing you might not expect is how warm they are. Been windproof and fairly long you will heat up fast in cold weather. I wear mine all the time to work because it's the perfect UK jacket, warm enough on cold days, waterproof enough, and not thick enough to cook you if it warms up. The army got that smok very very right. The other thing that might suit you is a motorcycle/motorsport balaclava intended for under helmet use. They tend to be thin soft and not very insulated because they have to be worn with a helmet. You'll struggle colour wise, as they tend to be black, white, red, or blue. A black cheap one might be worth a punt tho, and should give you about as much protection as a t-shirt. So enough to stop a cut but not a welt. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GO-KART-BLACK-BALACLAVA-BIKE-RACE-RALLY-ROTAX-TKM-/370288197659

You could always go with an FN Fal, It's pretty much an SLR with a short barrel. Plus there are JG V.3 gearbox versions. http://www.evike.com/products/37789/ Searching for the SA58, LK58, FN Fal, might give you a few more hits. And while I know it's not an SLR, It's a damn sight closer than an M4. http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airosft-era-and-other-guns/sa58-electronic-blow-back.htm#.VmOia7-QhEA http://www.taiwangun.com/en/electric-air-soft-guns/lk58-jg You could even add some length to it with a suppressor, or barrel extension. I wouldn't alter the inner barrel length tho as you might need to change the cylinder if it's ported. It also solves the upgrade problems as the JG on a v3 gearbox shouldn't be too bad out of the box. You would need defence to buy it tho, but that taiwangun link works out about £130 atm so it's not overpriced at all.

Start the rebuild of my Aug with the after-market parts I've ordered for christmas. Build some NB fets get them tested and fit them to the guns. Work out my actual field kit. I'm wanting to drop all webbing and use a satchel instead to speed me up, and let me drop to prone without fearing wet mags. I think the big thing for me this year is going to be getting in the field and playing more. The extras this christmas will free me up from been reliant on friends for the little bits of kit I have missing, like a lipo charger, and reliable batteries. So I can set my gear at home, Get ready and be off from home even if they have to work, Thats a big thing because up to this point I've been having to sofa surf the night before a meet to get everything ready. Gun wise the Aug is having a typical rebuild. New piston head and cylinder head, New barrel, hop rubber, Re-shim, bushings, spring guide, airseal nozzle,AOE, NB fet, Sorbo lining, and a paint job or cloth wrap. I'm just finalising grease choices atm and waiting for present day so I can get started.

What about the stanag Aug conversion. There are numerous pages on converting the magwell to take stanag mags, and a real steel version as well I believe. You'd have to keep the motor cage because it makes up part of the gearbox attachment internally. Outside of that you would be free to take the gas pipe out any way you wanted. Through the plastic or through the butt stop. Internally the aug would also be well suited. They strip fast, you can remove the barrel in seconds, you can remove the whole metal receiver in seconds. This means you can have a Para short barrel and a regular 509mm on the same setup. You could even take both to a game and swap out as desired in the safe zone or on the field in seconds.

Santa always gives me a budget. Chrono, Madbull 6.03 509mm, madbull 60 hop rubbers, 6mm bushes, shims, Silent head and piston head, Solid spring guide, Miltec tactical messenger bag, 7.4 lipo, lipo charger, and enough parts from farnells to make 3 protection mosfets. It's all already here! In a suspicious box in the corner.

Hello! I've recently made the purchase of one of the older JG/ASG Aug A3. The gun is 100% stock and I'm looking at a few upgrade parts specifically for this gun. I want an RPS increase, and a single shot accuracy increase. The stock parts that are on the gun are a little lacking but with a few additions I think it should be a good main gun. Am I right in thinking that my best gearbox upgrade path will be: Steel bushings Spring guide Shim set Piston and head. With a motor been an option later down the line. And for the rest of the gun I'm thinking of adding: Better buckings 6.03 stainless barel With those upgrades in mind are kits like the AUG hurricane kit worth the money? This is the kit I'm thinking of. http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/product_info.php?products_id=3268 That covers most of the basic things I was going to change for the time been but are the parts of a reasonable quality? And would it be a better investment to source parts individually?

Weekend update. While the aluminium repair worked, The heat from it has shown that the casting is suffering more cracks that couldn't be seen. When I came to fillet the lugs I used a water bath to stop the casting getting too hot on the already soldered side. Steam and bubbles appeared in a lot of locations, So either the metal is porous, or the casting has catastrophically failed. So I took a different approach to the problem. I removed both locking lugs and a good section of cast material. I then dry fitted the gun parts and took a few measurements. With that information I went and looked at my pitiful home steel stock, I only had 40mm x 3mm angle section that was suitable, everything else was a little big. So I split a 12" length of angle down the seam, Cut off some parts from the newly made 35 x3mm flat bar and got to work making a steel shoe. The shoe isn't finished yet, I have to grind back the faces, Add in some filler sections, Grind out the rear side for the receiver covers, and drill 2 holes for the screw mounting. As a dry fit without any screws at all it's so solid you can pick the gun up, wave it about, hold it at either end in any orientation and it doesn't move. It takes 2 hands to split the gun and some considerable force as well! Pictures will follow in an edit.