TheGrover

I dont faff with silicone, you can get an Airsoft Innovation oil pump kit which lets you add the silicone to the gas bottle itself, so you just do it once per bottle instead of two or three times per skirmish

Well, it rocked up today, so like a 12 year old with a new toy, i had to have a play straight away. It feels very high quality, at least compared to my G&P 30mm tube rds and my deceased Hawke RD30. The chunky lens covers can be removed by hand but wont be falling off accidentally, the three turrets feel chunky, the windage and elevation turrets have a nice click to them and have two allen locks which may be useful on a gbb. The power turret doesnt have set power settings, but is an analogue control with red and green on the same turret. The battery can also be removed by hand but is also well-held. The dot is the finest feature though, bright enough to not get lost outside (particularly on green) but can be turned right down for night use. The dot itself is very precise (small) and crisp, many times better than either of my previous sights You can tell that this is intended for real firearms, i cant wait to skirmish with it

I was once hidden in a bush looking about 30m to the corner of a building. I spotted two enemy players on the corner, the first of which was shot by someone in the building above just as i set my sights on him. The second person was stood behind the first, and i didnt hear him call hit, so i assumed he was medicing rge first guy and put a short burst at the pair. The burst must have hit because the first person turned to face me. The way the rules work, either the second person was medicing when the first was hit, and they were both now hit, or he wasnt and the first player needs to step aside and let me shoot the second. However, nobody else called hit moved. I put another short burst his way and shouted "move", but the pair stood still. After the fourth burst, the first guy yelled angrily that they were both hit, and didnt seem too happy. The way i saw it, he should have let me see that the second guy was hit unless he wanted another rinsing

Oh yea, of youre in the way of someones line of fire, you need to step aside or hit the deck or youre gonna get shot some more.

I dont mind talking to people around me when im dead and the area is clear, but i wont talk about enemy positions, their numbers etc untill im mediced back or i regen

It would just spread over everything and after a few dozen shots there would be almost none left where you put iy

I spotted that it wasnt exactly the same just before i ordered one, it doesnt seem to have a cantilever mount. When mine turns up ill let you know how it is

the AI lightweight oil is designed to be added to the propellant, and lubricate the internals similar to how green gas does. to lubricate the slide/bolt or nozzle (or any other moving part) you need a heavier, more viscous oil. ive never used the AI heavy silicone oil but i use GHK oil and i cant fault it one bit

The utg looks good. The amazon reviews vouch for people putting them on 12 gauges, AR15s and AKs without issue in 200-300 rounds. Gman, i found it cheaper at http://www.tacticalscope.co.uk/leapers-utg-1x32-cqb-red-green-dot-sight--2-qd-base-mounts---scp-ds3840w-816-p.asp might be worth a look

Hey guys, Today my Hawke RD30 died a death. i suspect that the shock generated by my G5s recoil has shaken the controller apart causing the dot to switch power modes or even turn off and on with each shot. To find a new sight, is there any good places to look, and any brands of sight that will have the shock resistance required for a good GBBR? Im not really interested in a magnified scope, as I dont feel my G5 is accurate enough to warrant one, and i much prefer the rapid target acquisition i can achieve with a red dot. Are the WE ones currently flooding the market tough enough? or will i have to shell out on a good Real Steel sight... where exactly do you buy real firearm sights? Thanks fellas

my turbo 3000 doesnt have any stivkers

Well, all these regs are given in the various posts around here, i just brought them together

I said a GOOD set of walking boots or PROPER combat boots. Of course buying cheap is buying crap

Nothing wrong with a good pair of walking boots, though i think proper combat boots have better ankle support.

okay, so ive just brought the chrono out again to do some testing. Im using Colemans propanein my room, its pretty warm inside, i guess a little over 20 degrees, adn my fps with a 0.3G bb is about 300 FPS at the start of the magazine (~15fps over the site limit for this weight) and by the end of the mag, its dropped to around 250 FPS (~35 FPS below the site limit). Im using the standard nozzle and widebore barrel, which in the past resulted in an FPS of around 245 on 0.25g BBs. my question is: did i put the nozzle/bolt assembly back together well enough that the FPS has increased? i certainly lubed the hell out of the double O rings on the nozzle. And: Will the FPS come down after a few hundred rounds anyway? Im gonna put a couple hundred rounds through anyway just to see if it settles down, otherwise ill have to crack it again and do a little bit of subtle sabotage to reduce my FPS so that its under the limit at the START of the mag Thanks guys EDIT: Answered my own question, FPS is down to 20FPS below the limit Job well done, now time for a celebratory skirmish...

sorry, should have been more specific, the first one (one of the smaller ones) is from fleabay so it could be from anywhere, the other two were genuine british armed forces surplus items

I'm trying to find a UBACS that fits well underneath my PC and has sleeves long enough to cover my whole arm. Ive tried three so far, two smaller ones (actually different sizes) whose arms are so short i need about another 5-6 inches in the length to cover my forearms sensibly, and one large size, which had the correct sleeve length, but was comically loose on the chest. Is this just the design of the shirt? or am i just picking the wrong size? Thanks

ok, so ive fitted my WBB and just tried the high power nozzle for the G5 to see if i can bring the FPS back up. here are the muzzle velocities for different setups: Stock barrel, stock nozzle - approx 290 FPS w/ 0.25g BB WBB, Stock nozzle - approx 245 FPS w/ 0.25g BB WBB, High power Nozzle - Approx 360FPS w/ 0.25g BB WBB, High power nozzle and 144a gas - Approx 330 FPS w/ 0.25g BB Clearly, the high power nozzle is too much for me. i tried it hoping for an extra 50FPS and i got an extra 100 Now ill have to swap the nozzles back and find another way of getting the FPS back to something sensible.., maybe joule creep will bring the FPS of 0.30s to something preferrable? time to get the tools out again! EDIT: Okay, swapping back to the Standard Nozzle gives me approx 260 FPS with 0.30s, only 20FPS under my calculated site limit of 350FPS with 0.20G BBs. i guess taking it apart and giving it some love found a little more power somewhere... does anyone wanna buy a high power nozzle for a G5?

Ah, i'd never thought of the regulations surrounding the control of gas containers, but it all makes sense now. I always understood the dangers, After A-Level physics where we did the number crunching with gasses under pressure, i got my head around what gasses do (ask me to explain GBB cool down, i dare you). With most properly designed products, there is no real risk of spontaneous explosion, but as you said, a bit of DIY using a fag-packet sketch is just asking to be overfilled in a cold environment then moved into a hot environment, and lack the structural strength to hold all that lovely flammable gas safe. I guess ill have to find a small bag and keep my propane in there, ditch it at the regen point for each game and hope than no cheeky bastards fancy a free refill.

well im guessing that since the Acog has a Dr sight that its a 4x magnification, in which case a good sight like that will set you back at least £100. so if the gun fires already and your'e confident enough to tune it up, its a steal to me. Ive never had any experience with King Arms, but my brother had a KA Sig 556, which promptly took a shit and is now a glorified wall hanger spitting out around 20fps, it was an issue with mags not fitting, and by ramming them in, we think the hop chamber is goosed, and its not a standard M4 type and there are no spares. If someone can vouch for King Arms making a good M4, i'd snap that up, again, providing that it does actually shoot somewhat well, and you dont mind getting stuck in with some tools.

I saw your FB post Im not sure that the nozzle will affect the recoil, as all three nozzles should perform identically once the valve in the nozzle closes and starts the blowback, but using a longer/tighter barrel will let you reduce the FPS. Now im slightly concerned for mine as ive just fit a 6.23 barrel and am just waiting for my high power nozzle to arrive so i can get the FPS back up from around 276 fps something has just struck me, That FPS is actually calculated from the energy, as in, I actually measured a 0.25g BB and converted its energy to the equivalent of a 0.20g BB, but chronoing on a 0.20 gave me 245fps from memory, thats a 12% increase in energy! I,m gonna break out the chrono later and check that again...

okay, a few potential causes off the top of my head: are you releasing the trigger too early, leaving the 'box parked with the cut-off lever depressed? if it works fine in auto, this is what is most common could the tappet or selector mechanism be interfering with any wires or connectors? Thinking about it, its probably the first one, ive done it myself more than a few times in heated situations when forced to use semi. Basically, the way that Semi works is that there is a small lever in the gearbox that is pressed by one of the gears at the same point in every cycle. Unless the gun is on full auto, this lever disconnects the main power until the trigger is released. now, if the motor is cut off early by releasing the trigger and the gear happens to stop in this position, the power will be cut to the motor by this lever, though it can easily be bypassed by switching to full auto where the cut-off switch/lever is not used.

if the hop up is working somewhat okay, then its probably just the bucking or nub seated incorrectly, or possibly damaged. neither is expensive, even for high-grade replacement parts (a dog's bollocks Prometheus Hop rubber will cost a tenner, you dont even have to spend that much)

Not having had an M4 i dont know about the first point, but as for the second, just try taking the barrel out, disassebling the hop unit, and putting it back together, checking that everything is seated nice and square. look through the hop unit (with the barrel out of the gun, looking from where the nozzle sits) and put the hop on. if everything is seated right, the bucking should look straight in the barrel. if the bucking is lower on one side than the other, have another go at putting everything together. It might take a few tries, whilst flat-hopping my G5, i must have spent half an hour trying to get the nub to sit right before i was happy enough to put it all back together.

Not good man, what pressure were you running your HPA setup at? could that have been giving the bolt more force than Green or Propane? other than that, all i can think of is that you love your G5 and youve put so many rounds through it that it just reached its time