Anyway to take out the stripped screw on handguard?

[Astronautcheng]

It just stripped totally, don’t know how to take it out. I’m thinking about finding an online store with repair service and send it to them, but 50 or 60 pounds fee for one screw is kind of unnecessary. 

 

Or maybe just leave it there, but when I have a wobble barrel or broken bucking it will be hard to deal with.

[DanBow]

I cant quite make it out but if it's a Torx, you could try the next size up and hammer it into the head. Or get a flat head screwdriver thats the ssme width as the outer part of the points. Or use a small punch and drift it around.

[concretesnail]

 

Hammer in the next size up tool.

Groove the head for a flat blade.

Removal tool l, which drills into the piece.

Drill it out completely.

All options but I've tried to list them in the order of easiest to try/do without risk.

[Enid_Puceflange]

Just get a screw extractor set.

I used one to get a stuck and rounded 1.5mm grub screw that was embedded in a flash hider.

Dead simple

Use a cordless drill, insert tool into the chuck, have drill set to reverse mode

Apply lots of pressure onto the broken screw and the tool cuts into the screw first, then the aggressive tapered part “bites” into the stock screw and extracts

all done in seconds . 👍

 

Edited February 3 by Enid_Puceflange

[EDcase]

Agree with the above ^

BUT get a good set from a known brand otherwise you may end up with two bits of metal to extract 😁 (I'd go for THESE)

Put some oil on it and leave for a couple of hours.

 

As the aboves...

A slightly larger Torx head or flathead

A flathead screwdriver on the side and tap gently but fast with a small hammer.  (Counter clockwise of course)

 

 

 

Edited February 3 by EDcase

[Dan Robinson]

Is it a polymer hand guard?

 

One thing I've tried (not on pews) is to heat up the, slightly larger, bit on a hob/blow torch to transfer the heat down the threads.

 

You then make use of different coefficients of expansion.  

 

 

Obviously don't melt anything vital.

[Enid_Puceflange]

34 minutes ago, EDcase said:

Agree with the above ^

BUT get a good set from a known brand otherwise you may end up with two bits of metal to extract 😁

Put some oil on it and leave for a couple of hours.

 

As the aboves...

A slightly larger Torx head or flathead

A flathead screwdriver on the side and tap gently but fast with a small hammer.  (Counter clockwise of course)

 

 

 

TBH, the ones above were what I bought.

I was really disappointed when they arrived, looked like typical cheap tat

But actually worked really well, I expected them to be single use too.

did the job, unscathed!

If you ain’t in a rush and can wait like 10 days for shipping 

[EDcase]

They certainly can work but the cheap chinesium will break at much lower torque loads.

To put it in perspective, a really GOOD set is quite a bit more expensive.

 

 

Edited February 3 by EDcase

[Astronautcheng]

5 hours ago, Enid_Puceflange said:

Just get a screw extractor set.

I used one to get a stuck and rounded 1.5mm grub screw that was embedded in a flash hider.

Dead simple

Use a cordless drill, insert tool into the chuck, have drill set to reverse mode

Apply lots of pressure onto the broken screw and the tool cuts into the screw first, then the aggressive tapered part “bites” into the stock screw and extracts

all done in seconds . 👍

 

If I use this I beed to buy a drill. Is electric screwdriver OK? It’s cheaper than a electric drill.

[Dan Robinson]

15 minutes ago, Astronautcheng said:

If I use this I beed to buy a drill. Is electric screwdriver OK? It’s cheaper than a electric drill.

Depends on the driver's torque.

 

Often chuckle when I see a householders DIY tools compared to some of the toys we tradesmen invest in.  Pretty sure my driver has a more effective hammer action than my brother's Ikea drill. 😁

 

[Tackle]

56 minutes ago, Dan Robinson said:

Depends on the driver's torque.

 

Often chuckle when I see a householders DIY tools compared to some of the toys we tradesmen invest in.  Pretty sure my driver has a more effective hammer action than my brother's Ikea drill. 😁

 

Amen 👆

I remember before impact drivers were a "thing" walking in to thanet tools for some stuff & the guy on the counter says "here, think you can drive this massive coach bolt in to 6 inches of solid oak", we laughed at him but had a go, gripping the drill with both hands ready for it to lock up, "nah, one hand" he says, & it was like a hot knife through butter, following week I bought one, previously the idea of spending £250 on a cordless drill sounded ludicrous, but I reckon it paid for itself in a month🤯. 

1 hour ago, Astronautcheng said:

If I use this I beed to buy a drill. Is electric screwdriver OK? It’s cheaper than a electric drill.

No, you'll need a drill with variable speed, & some good quality drill bits, job like that you need slow but with torque. 

No one you can borrow one from ? (can't believe I just said that😱) 

[Astronautcheng]

On 03/02/2024 at 15:44, Tackle said:

Amen 👆

I remember before impact drivers were a "thing" walking in to thanet tools for some stuff & the guy on the counter says "here, think you can drive this massive coach bolt in to 6 inches of solid oak", we laughed at him but had a go, gripping the drill with both hands ready for it to lock up, "nah, one hand" he says, & it was like a hot knife through butter, following week I bought one, previously the idea of spending £250 on a cordless drill sounded ludicrous, but I reckon it paid for itself in a month🤯. 

No, you'll need a drill with variable speed, & some good quality drill bits, job like that you need slow but with torque. 

No one you can borrow one from ? (can't believe I just said that😱) 

I’m new in UK so……yeah I have no one to borrow from. I’ll try find a repair store

[Tommikka]

3 hours ago, Astronautcheng said:

I’m new in UK so……yeah I have no one to borrow from. I’ll try find a repair store

Whereabouts in the UK are you?

A friendly neighbourhood member may be near enough to lend an hand (and become a new airsoft friend)

 

For the cost of paying a tech to do the job, you could manage to buy a ‘good enough’ drill to do the job and still have it for future tasks 

(above members have highlighted the benefits of better tools, and extraction can be a worry - but care and some familiarisation with videos and ideally a practice run on something else will usually get the job done)

 

There could be a local group such as Men’s Shed which are workshop facilities and could have someone willing to give the help to do something like this — complete with many ranges of tools and experienced problem solvers

 

https://menssheds.org.uk/find-a-shed/

PS - Do of course think ahead about not just turning up with a gun looking thing !

 

Try contacting to ask, and then bring it in a case etc!

[Tactical Pith Helmet]

46 minutes ago, Tommikka said:

There could be a local group such as Men’s Shed which are workshop facilities and could have someone willing to give the help to do something like this — complete with many ranges of tools and experienced problem solvers

 

https://menssheds.org.uk/find-a-shed/

PS - Do of course think ahead about not just turning up with a gun looking thing !

 

Try contacting to ask, and then bring it in a case etc!

Player I know makes a lot of bespoke grips etc at his local Shed.

On 03/02/2024 at 12:18, EDcase said:

They certainly can work but the cheap chinesium will break at much lower torque loads.

To put it in perspective, a really GOOD set is quite a bit more expensive.

 

 

Low speed high torque defo required.  All of my gear for the last couple of years is Sealey.  The hammering that their stuff takes would kill cheap tat in seconds.