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g&g mosfet burnt out


vialli
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Planned to do my 1st game since 2016 at driver wood Airsoft next weekend .I have a g&g top tech tr418 bought in 2016 and ive only used it once .thought I'd test before going next week so connected a 9.6 nun chuck NiMH but after 2 shots and the fuse blew.obviously things have moved on since 2016 so what are my options?can I just use it without a mosfet? If so is it just a case of disconnecting it or is there a better one to use.it has three wires going to the mosfet, the black and red but also a plug in wire , what does that wire actually do?

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If you're blowing fuses that's not blowing the mosfet, the fuse is protecting the mosfet.

The wires going into your stock mosfet though are battery + and - and then the white plug is the data cable to your trigger contacts. The devil in me says to look at swapping in a Perun ETU++, they're inexpensive, give more functionality and a 3 year old could install one but I'd probably be doing you an injustice as a fuse blows for a reason and you probably need to resolve that first.

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Is the battery that old too? Mosfets don't like low voltages. They burn. However, I don't know how exactly and how that affects the fuse. My non educated guess is that the low voltage doesn't open the mosfet enough, resulting a kind of short circuit, which then blows the fuse.

TLDR: try with a good, fresh battery.

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G&G mosfets are shit and should never be trusted.

 

Ditch the whole thing and go for a Perun V2 Hybrid, installation is stupid easy and costs pretty much a couple beers more than a complete G&G SHIT-TU.

 

The Perun ETU Upgrade Kit/ETU++ are good options too but then the weak link becomes the G&G trigger board, which is rather flimsy because the micro switches it uses (three, one for the trigger, one for the selector and one for the COL) are also the cheapest, flimsiest (yes i know), lowest quality pieces of junk G&G can find.

 

Oh and G&G mosfets generally don't work with 7.4s because some utter mong thought it was a good idea to set the battery protection to 11.1 only :D

 

 

if it wasn't clear enough I hate G&G with every inch of my soul :D

Edited by Skara
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Just swap the cylinder (or rotate it so the small port and the blowback system aren't aligned anymore). Keep in mind that disabling it will boost your energy output quite a bit, as all the air now is used to propel the BB, but in the long term yeah, disabling that useless gimmick is the way to go.

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Thinking about it,mite get rid of it as never been happy with since I got it new,BBS going left at the end of the flight, forward assist not working,bolt catch only worked sometimes and now the MOSFET burnt out,think I'll put a sign on it at driver wood on Sunday saying "free to a good home" then good riddance and get something else ,must be some better quality 416 replicas about these days.

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13 hours ago, Steveocee said:

a fuse blows for a reason and you probably need to resolve that first

 

Was the battery also lying around for years unused?  If so then sight unseen I'd guess it wasn't capable of pulling the spring past compression, the motor stalled and the fuse threw itself on its sword.

 

Unless there's a particular reason you want to stick with nimh then I'd agree with going 7.4V lipo, and I'd also lube the gearbox.  At a minimum, get some silicone oil in there via the nozzle and the cut out slot, then blow it out the nozzle before putting the hop/barrel back.

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8 minutes ago, vialli said:

mite get rid of it as never been happy with since I got it new

that's top tech shit for you.

 

Also brace yourself as at some point in the near future the gearbox shell will most likely crack, they're known for being super flimsy.

 

Plenty of companies do 416s nowadays :)

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42 minutes ago, Rogerborg said:

 

Was the battery also lying around for years unused?  If so then sight unseen I'd guess it wasn't capable of pulling the spring past compression, the motor stalled and the fuse threw itself on its sword.

 

Unless there's a particular reason you want to stick with nimh then I'd agree with going 7.4V lipo, and I'd also lube the gearbox.  At a minimum, get some silicone oil in there via the nozzle and the cut out slot, then blow it out the nozzle before putting the hop/barrel back.

Yeah not been used for years ,charged up ok and works fine in my ics m4 and JG mp5

35 minutes ago, Skara said:

that's top tech shit for you.

 

Also brace yourself as at some point in the near future the gearbox shell will most likely crack, they're known for being super flimsy.

 

Plenty of companies do 416s nowadays :)

Yeah fuck it I'll give it away can't really be arsed with it anymore

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Hi all ...just got me a G&G Wildhog 12" ...and was looking at the Perun ETU Upgrade Kit/ETU++ ...but then have seen the Perun V2 Hybrid.

Now as someone said ..this is the better option.

Will this fit my wildhog ...guessing mine has the V2 gearbox ...only had it a week and new to all this airsoft stuff lol.

Ow had new upgraded barrel fitted .

Any other recommendations for upgrades on this unit.

Any help most appreciated.

Karl

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Honestly i don't want anything for it ,at driver wood on Sunday I'll put a sign on it saying"free to a good home" but if someone wants it and get to Egham Surrey before Sunday then come and get it. My £80 Jing gong mp5 A4 outperforms this supposedly "top tech" load of shit.Not going to bother spending anymore time or money on it ,just want to see the back of it.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 30/08/2021 at 13:58, Rogerborg said:

 

Was the battery also lying around for years unused?  If so then sight unseen I'd guess it wasn't capable of pulling the spring past compression, the motor stalled and the fuse threw itself on its sword.

 

Unless there's a particular reason you want to stick with nimh then I'd agree with going 7.4V lipo, and I'd also lube the gearbox.  At a minimum, get some silicone oil in there via the nozzle and the cut out slot, then blow it out the nozzle before putting the hop/barrel back.

I agree that this is the most likely scenario.

Fuses just don't blow without an overload from a high current draw.

 


 

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