Wat Am Bset Gnu? for Real Tho)

[Sitting Duck]

4 minutes ago, Davegolf said:

How many fingers do you have?

Do you live near a nuclear power station??

 

 

I have trained to also use my toes so now have 20 pinkies to type with

 

Chernobyl was caused by a Faulty Nuprol Lipo according to Alex Jones

[Davegolf]

Figures, Nuprol stuff is not safe 😂

[Sitting Duck]

11 minutes ago, Davegolf said:

Figures, Nuprol stuff is not safe 😂

 

charging wise I'll agree

AEG build wise, some bespoke micro switch gearbox stuff not thought through

in other areas some stuff is OK & this where stickers/branding gets costly

as usually it's just oem SHS/RA with a Nuprol sticker costing an extra £10 or so

 

Are conspiracy theorists completely mad or just ahead of the curve...

 

[Skara]

Thanks for the detailed answers.

 

I'll get the SHS 16tpa motor then, along with a set of 13:1s to keep as spares once something fails.

 

Meanwhile I guess I'll use it on a 11.1 once I wire the fet in..

[Sitting Duck]

2 hours ago, Skara said:

Thanks for the detailed answers.

 

I'll get the SHS 16tpa motor then, along with a set of 13:1s to keep as spares once something fails.

 

Meanwhile I guess I'll use it on a 11.1 once I wire the fet in..

 

Well you don't want 11.1v AND SHS 13:1 - just 11.1v as a cheap stop gap

 

you don't HAVE TO install the mosfet right away either on a std motor (with tabs)

you could just install a sb160 schotky diode across the cheap std motor with tabs to reduce arcing for a while...

 

 

 

NB - DO NOT WRAP ONE AROUND A SHS, G&G MOTOR

as the two screws connect/short through the mounting plate under end bell 101% of the time

(but are insulated with plastic washers/sometime plastic screws etc... so just stopped from a short)

 

YOU PLACE A DIODE IN A SHS TYPE MOTOR YOU CAN SHORT THE TWO TERMINALS

(in a cheap std "2 tab" motor the poles never contacts the same section at same time)

 

What they do - stop the spikes from motor/inductive load...

 

loads of stuff out there but a before/after...

 

https://youtu.be/F3IsdlBVwSI?t=260

 

& go to say 5:10 to see nearly no spark with diode

 

https://youtu.be/F3IsdlBVwSI?t=310

 

(that spark is same arcing at trolley/switch in gun)

 

So ICS know their stuff for reducing arcing - though wtf didn't they do this by default ???

However only for cheap 2 tab motors, even G&G cheapo 18k motors shouldn't have this fitted

(coz shorting at the lock ring under end bell with added diode on SHS/G&G type motors)

 

What this translates to - you can drop a diode in, run on 11.1v on shit motor and reduce the arcing

thus not needing to install a mosfet straight away, to run on higher juice to squeeze out more zest

 

NB does NOT eliminate arcing at switch like mosfet,

but seriously reduce arcing from spikes for say 20p (on cheapo 2 tab motors) to run on higher juice

perfect for cheapo £100 gun, you want to add a bit more zest with least fucking about out of the box

(later on when it busts, needs a tweak then open & do the upgrades/mosfet etc...)

[Skara]

6 minutes ago, Sitting Duck said:

Well you don't want 11.1v AND SHS 13:1 - just 11.1v as a cheap stop gap

Oh no I'm not going to run 13:1s on a 11.1, I'm stupid but not THAT stupid

 

What I meant was I'm gonna run a 11.1 on stock gears and motor, with just the mosfet wired. When the motor arrives then I'm gonna swap it and run 7.4s, eventually doing adjustments.

 

13:1 gearset is not going to be installed until/unless the stock gears shit the bed. Given that the gun is brand new it's gonna take a while to break.

[Speedbird_666]

I'm kinda tempted to build a 'sleeper' gun out of one of these - 13:1 gears, Warfet, 16TPA motor - something along those lines all whilst keeping the externals completely stock.

 

There's something to said about the old-school furniture - you're quite right @Skara - you don't see many around - it's all rail systems and bolt-ons.

 

I saw this real steel video earlier today - it did make me chuckle:

 

 

 

 

[Sitting Duck]

12 hours ago, Skara said:

Oh no I'm not going to run 13:1s on a 11.1, I'm stupid but not THAT stupid

 

What I meant was I'm gonna run a 11.1 on stock gears and motor, with just the mosfet wired. When the motor arrives then I'm gonna swap it and run 7.4s, eventually doing adjustments.

 

13:1 gearset is not going to be installed until/unless the stock gears shit the bed. Given that the gun is brand new it's gonna take a while to break.

 

Well if/when you strip it down for mosfet, check/smooth out any burrs inside according to Luke/Neg Airsoft

 

if you got the std spring guide (non bearing) instead of bearing one...

https://gunfire.com/en/products/qd-spring-slide-for-ar15-specna-arms-edge-tm-replicas-1152224920.html

 

then if you got any spare bearing & races from bearing piston heads...

soak the fucker in hot water, after a while, slide a decent knife or thin screwdriver down between and push off the blue sleeve

fit the race-bearing-race, some bearings/race can be a tight fit & others are just perfect

tap the blue sleeve back on - viola bearing spring guide from some old bits from your spares box

 

other than that, looks pretty decent inside, especially if you got metal rack piston too...

 

 

13:1's could go straight in (not re-enforced at back restricting the faster gears install)

metal rack would be a touch if you want to SS

 

Gotta admit, though the carbine handguard is maybe not my first choice

for the money you get quite a good bang for your bucks with decent internals (after a deburr & regrease)

plus quick change spring (bearing spring guide from your spares box)

and for under £100 even...

 

https://www.onlyairsoft.com/product/specna-arms-rra-sa-e18-edge-carbine-replica-chaos-grey/

[Skara]

Not going for bearing spring guide/piston head unless i SS, the energy output as of now is bang on for my limit (0.95J, 1J limit, I absolutely cannot have a sigle reading above 1J, sometimes people get fuckt over having ONE reading of 1.0000000J).

 

Bought the motor, gears and a bunch of wires. Turned out a bit expensive from our friend at ak2m4 but heh, don't care too much, that's how it is with shipping from the UK

 

I do actually have a bearing non qd spring guide, I don't use it anyway, so should the need for a bearing spring guide arise, I'm covered  Nice tip you gave me there

[Skara]

So, stuff from @ak2m4 arrived, the motor alone gives me 16 rps which is fantastic, I reckon I could get 1/2 more RPS by hardwiring the mosfet (will do it this Saturday) and off we go for its first outing on Sunday

 

Will do the usual shimming check and give it a little grease as I've heard specnas come with zero grease (opposed to the other low cost brands which dump a whole can of grease per gearbox).

[Speedbird_666]

40 minutes ago, Skara said:

So, stuff from @ak2m4 arrived, the motor alone gives me 16 rps which is fantastic, I reckon I could get 1/2 more RPS by hardwiring the mosfet (will do it this Saturday) and off we go for its first outing on Sunday

 

Will do the usual shimming check and give it a little grease as I've heard specnas come with zero grease (opposed to the other low cost brands which dump a whole can of grease per gearbox).

 

Just out of interest - is the outer barrel a one-piece affair with a proper delta ring? Planning to pick one up next month for giggles.

[Skara]

39 minutes ago, Speedbird_666 said:

 

Just out of interest - is the outer barrel a one-piece affair with a proper delta ring? Planning to pick one up next month for giggles.

No idea, haven't taken it apart yet other than separating the receivers to change the hop rubber.

I'll take some pictures when I take it apart again.

Remind me on Saturday

[Skara]

Okay, mosfet wired, gained 0.3 rounds per second.

The gearbox was drier than your mum's twat (hehe I'm funnee, right? Right?), gave it a little grease and added a few shims here and there.

 

Air seal was non existent, kinda sorted that out as well, it's not 100% but it'll do for tomorrow.

 

I'm gonna take it apart again next week to install the bearings and 13:1 gears.

 

As for the barrel, it's a 2 piece barrel that joins around 5 cms from the barrel nut. The delta seems to be detachable though as the two retaining pins are actual pins and not just cosmetics..

[Skara]

@Sitting Duck

You fucking lied to me!

 

Installed the 13:1 gears, didn't install the bearings as per my local tech's words "bushings are more reliable".

Expected 20/21 RPS on a 7.4, chronoed at 27 point fucking 5 RPS and 0.9999999J (might nip half a coil off tho).

Tis on a 7.4v 1450 mAh 20c.

[Sitting Duck]

On 19/09/2020 at 12:34, Skara said:

@Sitting Duck

You fucking lied to me!

 

Installed the 13:1 gears, didn't install the bearings as per my local tech's words "bushings are more reliable".

Expected 20/21 RPS on a 7.4, chronoed at 27 point fucking 5 RPS and 0.9999999J (might nip half a coil off tho).

Tis on a 7.4v 1450 mAh 20c.

 

Well to be fair...

 

I said 16rps on std gears could be 16~18rps if deans & rewire etc... with SHS motor

so wasn't far out

 

I've done 2 x hot CM.517's with a G&G Blue (25k ferrite) 13:1 SS 3 teeth to get 19.5rps @ 335fps

 

& I think many have done a SHS HT with 13:1, maybe a bit of SS to get a 24rps 340fps

 

so how the heck you got 27.5rps at around 325fps (1 joule mark aprox on 0.20's) is amazing

no I'll rephrase that...

 

FUCKING AMAZING

 

The shimming must be more perfect that Roger's (Shut Up Gears)

The amp draw must be low like 13 amps or less

Basically everything must be THAT close to perfection - you got ultra lucky fortunate in how it all went

Everything must have meshed perfectly & I mean fucking perfectly...

The pinion to bevel 101% bang on, plus rest of gears bang on, the box all smooth inside, no burrs

The motor angle in grip in precise alignment, the motor tab connectors as tight as fuck - near soldered on

 

What wire did you use - Alpha Eco or something or fucking wire for an electric shower or meter tails

I know Alpha 16awg is good & thin/stiff as fuck thin but tough insulation wall - but jeeeez

to squeeze out what is probably 101% potential efficiency out of a build is very fortunate indeed

(just shows how much std wire can choke a gun's performance)

 

and you are are still on solid bushings, not even cross bushings filled with grease

let alone bearings or ceramics - so to get 27.5rps is mental

I mean you could have got mis-labelled 12:1's is about the only thing I can think of

to push the rof beyond a 24~25rps best expectation of 13:1 build on 7.4v

 

and the battery is perhaps better than 20c rating to supply that much energy too

 

The results obtained are way beyond a GOOD BUILD - 24rps would have been expected at say 340fps

maybe 25/26 tops on 325fps - but that is going some on a SS build

 

if you got 27.5rps, on a full stroke with a modest 7.4v 20c LiPo, even 8.4v max fresh off of charge

well fuck me backwards...

 

YOU WALK ON WATER SIR is all I can add and ffs LEAVE IT ALONE

I would NOT OPEN IT just to cut spring or SS to bring down the power, park it overnight instead

as it likely is pre-cocking from over spin, so I'd just leave it parked to fade or bed in the spring a smidge

(might get even a smidge more rps once it fades, but time the motor gets some carbon build up it will cancel out)

 

nah leave it alone, not saying you got "lucky" but certainly you was very fortunate it went together so damn well

 

Deffo walk on water on this build

if/when you do open it up again - though as said leave it alone for now ffs

but if it goes tits up and you need to crack her open...

test if the gears are 13:1 or 12:1's perhaps

mark bevel with pencil line, see how many turns of bevel it takes to fully rotate sector 1 revolution

(multiply bevel turns by 3 = actual ratio of gear set)

if 4.25 or less = 12.75:1 or 12:1 gear set

if 4.50 there abouts = 13.5:1 or 13:1 gear set

 

it's probably 13:1 and you got very lucky fortunate, but just wondering if Pete got some mis-labelled 12:1's

(like it does happen at times with the Chinese lottery etc...)

 

FUCKING VERY VERY VERY VERY WELL DONE SQUIRE indeeeeeeeed

[Adolf Hamster]

^is there any higher praise of a build than duck telling you to leave it the hell alone?

 

 

edit: perchance a theory for this performance boost over predictions is the Italian weather? batteries do tend to perform better in the warm

[Sitting Duck]

The more I keep thinking about this, the more I think you got 12:1's

 

I mean you 16rps on the motor at first

even if you got 18rps on std 18:1 gears

when you fitted the 13:1's you gained over 50% rps ???

 

Even 12:1 @ say 12.75:1 compared to 18.65:1 = 46.25%

and with the extra strain from gearing ratio expect a 40% max increase

 

and on 13:1 over 18:1 expect say a 33% increase in rps than say 38% actual increase in rps

 

Even so @ 18rps std gears a 40% increase from gearing = 18 x 1.4 =25.2 rps

and even if you obtained the full ratio increase from 12:1 @ 46.25%

equates to 18rps x 1.4625 = 26.325rps

 

and you never quite get the full stamped/marked ratio or true actual ratio in real use

coz the ratio slightly adds to the force of the drive chain

hence 12:1 vs 18:1 never means 50%, not even true 46.25% but more like 40%

(and 13:1 vs 18:1 = say 33% increase)

 

so even a 12:1 set which it "could" be the rps would only go up by 40% or 1.40

and it seems you was about 17rps tops than 18rps

Though I think with very thick wire and ultra lucky assembly you could have nudged near 19rps on 18:1 SHS HT

but to get 27.5rps - you gotta have 12:1's than 13:1's imho

unless the spring dropped in power and you got a much superior seal & transfer of power/bucking/nub etc....

(basically dropping the spring power say m10 & excellent seals, gaining fps, resulting in a couple more rps etc...)

 

Or motor is say 35k not 30k but then you would have got more than 16rps initially I'd have thought

 

I tend to lean it was a lucky fortunate build where EVERYTHING went 101% perfectly

and perhaps gears were 12:1's instead of 13:1's

 

I'm not try to take nothing away from ya though,

it really is a FUCKING AWESOME BUILD sir, seriously 11 out of 10 sir on bushings too ffs

 

but just trying to defend & justify where my Vulcan calculations may have differed from the final result

or failing that Mr Spock would simply say...

 

[Adolf Hamster]

59 minutes ago, Sitting Duck said:

but just trying to defend & justify where my Vulcan calculations may have differed from the final result

 

@Skara i think you've broken him

[Sitting Duck]

4 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:

 

@Skara i think you've broken him

 

Just saying...

Pete has had incorrectly labelled stuff in before

 

[Skara]

@Sitting Duck

I used the red/black AlphaWire 16AWG Pete sells on his site.

 

I was amazed when I saw the chrono results, it did run a little bit too fast for my expectations when I dry fired the thing after reassemby, but fuck me that thing is FAST now.

 

I have to be honest though, I didn't do the shimming entirely by myself, my team's tech helped me a lot with that.

[Sitting Duck]

Well thanks for your 200% honesty on the shimming

as said EVERYTHING went 101% perfectly I'd say

Your team's tech is very pleased too at the results I'd expect

 

24rps would be a good build say 340fps on that spec (30k + 13:1 etc...)

the extra 3.5rps could be 12:1's

or if the slightly lower 325fps would equate to that much extra zest

 

Yeah that Alpha wire is damn good stuff - max wire capacity available

wrapped around a very very thin but tough insulation

bit stiffer than usual wire but is 16awg in 18awg thickness so easy to install in tight spaces

(maybe leave a review for the Alpha Wire as Pete took the plunge to stock it)

 

Not only did you get expected good results - you got fucking AWESOME RESULTS

Congrats to both you & your tech friend

effectively doubling the rof & turning it into a sleeper gun or wolf in sheep's clothing

11 out of 10 - nope make that 12 out of 10

[Speedbird_666]

1 hour ago, Sitting Duck said:

 

 

Yeah that Alpha wire is damn good stuff - max wire capacity available

wrapped around a very very thin but tough insulation

bit stiffer than usual wire but is 16awg in 18awg thickness so easy to install in tight spaces

(maybe leave a review for the Alpha Wire as Pete took the plunge to stock it)

 

 

Gotta say, I was pleasantly surprised with the 16awg Alpha Wire that I got from @ak2m4. Easy to work enough to work with in my Cyma AK. I'll pick up more of it at some point for when I need to do some work on my other guns.

[Shamal]

On 28/07/2020 at 21:13, Skara said:

No, for that one I may actually go full ham on custom made carbon fibre parts and hpa.

I have a friend that makes them, along with cnc all the things.

I just want an m4 lol.

 

Specna C02 or C04?

Just got an e-05. 

Worth a look?

Regards 

[Skara]

10 minutes ago, Shamal said:

Just got an e-05. 

Worth a look?

Regards 

the Core version (C-05) was one of my choices for my other gun (tournament wanker gun)