Silverback SRS Thread

[Steveocee]

3 hours ago, Asomodai said:

 

Cheers for the advice!

 

I just had my first range test. I have to rack up the Fast hop with stock rubber to the max (8 or 9) to lift a .48 to around 100 Google metres. Does that sound about right? I have seen many people saying they only have to put it to 4 to lift, but thats with aftermarket rubber and nubs. 

 

Skirmshop UK have just restocked the 2J springs. (as a sidenote).

 

That does sound wrong. My FAST with SBA nub and rubber is only about 4 to hop 0.48's, sayin that though I don't like any tail end "lift" on my BB's, I prefer flat then drop so maybe I'm shooting less distance than you. I tend not to try for 100M as it's a rarity I can find a game area to make them and even then I find 500FPS is probably a touch low for that distance.

[Asomodai]

20 hours ago, Steveocee said:

 

Skirmshop UK have just restocked the 2J springs. (as a sidenote).

 

That does sound wrong. My FAST with SBA nub and rubber is only about 4 to hop 0.48's, sayin that though I don't like any tail end "lift" on my BB's, I prefer flat then drop so maybe I'm shooting less distance than you. I tend not to try for 100M as it's a rarity I can find a game area to make them and even then I find 500FPS is probably a touch low for that distance.

 

I put a shim of rubber around the connecting to the arm part of the nub which has increased pressure so i can have the same amount of hop at around 4-5, however it doesn't hop any more then it did previously. Turn the hop up more and it just jams. Any ideas?

 

I guess its slightly disappointing considering my upgraded VSR can go beyond that and rises at the end of the trajectory. I guess I am looking for a flight path where when the bb slows down it rises at the end of the travel. Where at the moment with the SRS it just falls from its initial trajectory.

[Steveocee]

On 06/08/2020 at 11:07, Asomodai said:

 

I put a shim of rubber around the connecting to the arm part of the nub which has increased pressure so i can have the same amount of hop at around 4-5, however it doesn't hop any more then it did previously. Turn the hop up more and it just jams. Any ideas?

 

I guess its slightly disappointing considering my upgraded VSR can go beyond that and rises at the end of the trajectory. I guess I am looking for a flight path where when the bb slows down it rises at the end of the travel. Where at the moment with the SRS it just falls from its initial trajectory.

 

Interestingly a friend is also having similar issues only he is needing 6 to lift a .43.

Advice I gave him was to chuck a couple hundred through it to try and wear the bucking in a bit.

 

Could always drop to a 50shore or change the nub out, something like a tigra(sp?) applies slightly more down the length of the patch.

[Lollingsgrad]

4 hours ago, Steveocee said:

Could always drop to a 50shore or change the nub out, something like a tigra(sp?) applies slightly more down the length of the patch.

 

That's what I'd advise; I think the problem with R-hoppish rubbers is that they present a flat edge to the BBs when lowered far enough into the barrel. The limit stops being how much back spin the mound can apply but how deep it can go into the window before the BB smacks into the wall. Something I've been meaning to try on an AEG I've got a similar problem with (Maple Leaf bucking) is to cut a little slope into the front of the mound to see if this helps prevent the pinch jams by removing the wall.

[Pop]

Hey guys, I have just ordered my SRS A2 Sport. Wanted to ask about the spring quickly: 

 

I've heard Rapax is the way to go so I'll certainly heed the advice - I'm wondering whether to get the 2J or 3J spring and cut some coils off. Seems to be a 50/50 with general consensus. 

 

Would would you suggest, Rapax 2 or 3J? 

 

Oh and I'll be using 0.45s

 

Thanks,

[JamesWills]

So I recently got my SRS A2,

currently got an SA Fasthop with Chub Nub and running a Rapax 2 Joule spring and getting about 2.1 Joules with  0.43g BB's

I've ordered a variable mass piston to get it to the magical 2.3 Joules, anyone else got a similar set up and know what weight they are using the VMP at?

[Asomodai]

  

On 06/08/2020 at 11:07, Asomodai said:

 

I put a shim of rubber around the connecting to the arm part of the nub which has increased pressure so i can have the same amount of hop at around 4-5, however it doesn't hop any more then it did previously. Turn the hop up more and it just jams. Any ideas?

 

I guess its slightly disappointing considering my upgraded VSR can go beyond that and rises at the end of the trajectory. I guess I am looking for a flight path where when the bb slows down it rises at the end of the travel. Where at the moment with the SRS it just falls from its initial trajectory.

 

Hey all. 

 

Had my first skirmish with mine, Fast Hop, M150 etc. Had lots of problems with the outer barrel shifting forward until Really tightened the screws on the side.

 

The Hop unit wheel keeps moving down the more I use it. What should I do with the O-Ring underneath the wheel to prevent this from happening?

 

BBs floating off to the left slightly and I feel that I cant hop .48s as much as I'd like. Effective range is 75 metres and 85 max, so going to purchase a new nub. Looking at the Longbow Chub Nub to get me extra lift. Anyone got any opinions on it?

[Lollingsgrad]

5 hours ago, Asomodai said:

Looking at the Longbow Chub Nub to get me extra lift. Anyone got any opinions on it?

 

I bought a set but returned it without using it. It's a 3D printed part, both the nubs I was sent were poorly finished. Lots of flash and neither of them were actually square. It's possible it doesn't matter and they would've worked fine but I've had bad experiences with 3D printed nubs before because the tolerances are generally awful. They're cheap though so you could give it a shot, I just wasn't willing to waste another game day on a shoddily made 3D printed nub. One dude on Facebook who had a build from Longbow including the chub nub had nothing but good things to say about it.

 

Something worth noting is it's just a flathop nub so you could just try buying an after market one like Modify or maybe even making one. Don't believe the stuff about the chub nub perfectly filling the window though, from what I saw there's no way the tolerances are good enough they can guarantee that.

[Kaleeb]

Hi guys,

 

Looking at getting an SRS A2 and have my eye on the 16” covert. However does the 22” make much difference in terms of accuracy/noise etc?

[Steveocee]

3 hours ago, Kaleeb said:

Hi guys,

 

Looking at getting an SRS A2 and have my eye on the 16” covert. However does the 22” make much difference in terms of accuracy/noise etc?

 

Nope. Longer barrel means easier to get higher FPS. Thats it.

[Kaleeb]

Thanks steve. A few more noob questions if I may? So if I buy the A2 covert it comes with a .308 muzzle brake. To make it compatible with the .338 silencer is it just a case of buying the .338 muzzle brake converter? I’m guessing this is purely cosmetic and doesn’t change how the rifle operates?

 

Thanks in advance

[JamesWills]

3 hours ago, Kaleeb said:

Thanks steve. A few more noob questions if I may? So if I buy the A2 covert it comes with a .308 muzzle brake. To make it compatible with the .338 silencer is it just a case of buying the .338 muzzle brake converter? I’m guessing this is purely cosmetic and doesn’t change how the rifle operates?

 

Thanks in advance

I am pretty sure you can use the .338 on the .308 muzzle brake but the .338 muzzle brake is sexy af so worth the money

[Steveocee]

8 hours ago, Kaleeb said:

Thanks steve. A few more noob questions if I may? So if I buy the A2 covert it comes with a .308 muzzle brake. To make it compatible with the .338 silencer is it just a case of buying the .338 muzzle brake converter? I’m guessing this is purely cosmetic and doesn’t change how the rifle operates?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Disappointingly you can keep the .308 break and use it in the .338 suppressor. The .308 suppressor has slightly shorter internal thread than the .338 so if you had a .338 break and tried to fit a .308 suppressor it just wouldn't screw all the way on.

 

Nothing else different between them (other than .338 suppressor being 25mm longer and having 3 maybe 4 more foam doughnuts in it).

[Kaleeb]

So I've decided to bite the bullet and when I can find one in stock get the A2 Covert. I want to be able to use 0.48's in it with decent FPS and hit at similar range to my VSR - 10 (80+ metres) but most importantly I want it to be nice and quiet. Here's what I've come up with so far, will this work?

 

SRS A2 Covert 16"

.338 suppressor with .308 muzzle break

Rapax 2J Spring

WASP Piston (is there another variation similar to this as it's out of stock?)

Some sort of bucking but not sure what type is appropriate here

 

Things I'm not sure I need - 

Hop system?

Nub?

 

Thanks in advance. 

[Steveocee]

20 hours ago, Kaleeb said:

So I've decided to bite the bullet and when I can find one in stock get the A2 Covert. I want to be able to use 0.48's in it with decent FPS and hit at similar range to my VSR - 10 (80+ metres) but most importantly I want it to be nice and quiet. Here's what I've come up with so far, will this work?

 

SRS A2 Covert 16"

.338 suppressor with .308 muzzle break

Rapax 2J Spring

WASP Piston (is there another variation similar to this as it's out of stock?)

Some sort of bucking but not sure what type is appropriate here

 

Things I'm not sure I need - 

Hop system?

Nub?

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

SRS A2 covert

.338 suppressor

Rapax 2J

Silverback FAST hop unit

Clean your barrel.

 

^^^ Would do the job perfectly well. The "new" red piston has a silent head on it so you don't necessarily NEED an airbrake anymore and the variable weight isn't massively needed unless you want to fine tune to the 0.1 of a joule.

FAST hop is easier, lifts better and gives you a new SBA 60 bucking with flat nub. 

[Kaleeb]

Thanks Steve that's really helpful! When you say "new" red piston, that I assume is one of the A2 upgrades that comes as standard out of the box?

[Lollingsgrad]

3 hours ago, Kaleeb said:

When you say "new" red piston, that I assume is one of the A2 upgrades that comes as standard out of the box?

 

It is; incidentally I found that the thing that quietened my A2 down the most was the Rapax spring. Don't particularly understand why, it just did. Note it wasn't loud to begin with but now it's just a tiny pop.

[Kaleeb]

So there’s no point adding something like a TNT inner barrel? Would it not improve the accuracy much?

[Steveocee]

4 hours ago, Kaleeb said:

So there’s no point adding something like a TNT inner barrel? Would it not improve the accuracy much?

 

Stainless coated brass barrel sold on a step no other AEG barrel has ever needed? Nah.

 

Maybe if you were thinking of a Lambda, PDI, Laylax or EdGi then yes but not needed, the stock barrel is pretty decent to get going with. 

[Asomodai]

On 10/08/2020 at 17:31, Asomodai said:

  

 

Hey all. 

 

Had my first skirmish with mine, Fast Hop, M150 etc. Had lots of problems with the outer barrel shifting forward until Really tightened the screws on the side.

 

The Hop unit wheel keeps moving down the more I use it. What should I do with the O-Ring underneath the wheel to prevent this from happening?

 

BBs floating off to the left slightly and I feel that I cant hop .48s as much as I'd like. Effective range is 75 metres and 85 max, so going to purchase a new nub. Looking at the Longbow Chub Nub to get me extra lift. Anyone got any opinions on it?

 

Hey all. Against advice I went ahead with the Chub Nub and 70 degree bucking as it's relatively cheap and nearby. 

 

I installed them both, I can now lift .48s properly so they rise at the end of max range, which is pretty good! 

However I still cant get the nub inline with the bb feed on the hop unit. If I straighten up the hop unit to the top of the barrel, the nub seems pinched to the left/off centre and the bbs curve to the left, if I move the barrel in relation to the nub then the bb feed is not straight with the top of the hop unit. 

 

It's almost as if the bottom of the fast unit does not align with the top of the unit. Slight miss drill. Anyone have issues with that?

 

It's too windy to get a proper test, though I get the feeling it is still firing to the left despite aligning it best I could. 

 

Please see slightly exaggerated diagram.

[Steveocee]

@Asomodai I always get this problem when I try to use my Faceless Rhop and FOW. I spend far too long trying to realign the 2 parts of the FAST unit onto the barrel with 1 degree turns to try and get it perfect.

 

Funnily enough when you throw a FAST hop with SBA bucking and SBA nub together they tend to sit perfectly.

 

I think you'll find it's just the inner part of the FAST not correctly aligned to the outer (note perfect alignment of the 2 parts doen't correlate to nub being perfect, align on the nub). Sort that and you'll be good to go or just throw in a 60 and hop 0.48's with the SBA nub like we all said 😁

[Asomodai]

3 minutes ago, Steveocee said:

 

I think you'll find it's just the inner part of the FAST not correctly aligned to the outer (note perfect alignment of the 2 parts doen't correlate to nub being perfect, align on the nub). Sort that and you'll be good to go or just throw in a 60 and hop 0.48's with the SBA nub like we all said 😁

 

The inner and the outer do seem a bit amiss when putting together. Sadly it didn't seem to make much difference how they were aligned. 

 

I did have standard Nub and 60 degree, but it wouldn't hop at the end of the travel as it should have. Hence why I changed. At least I am getting hop now!

 

I am quite impressed with the Chub so far in terms of its lifting capabilities. 

[Steveocee]

@Asomodai I've not yet seen one, prioer to that the Stalker Tigra was very intrusive, so much it jammed me on setting 4.

https://www.skirmshop.co.uk/srs-tigra-nub.html

I use a PDI barrel though so only have a very small hop window comapred to most, a prowler would likely be a better fit for the stock or other barrels.

 

Whats the finish like on the chub? Seen a few reviews that weren't too favourable of it.

[Asomodai]

16 minutes ago, Steveocee said:

@Asomodai I've not yet seen one, prioer to that the Stalker Tigra was very intrusive, so much it jammed me on setting 4.

https://www.skirmshop.co.uk/srs-tigra-nub.html

I use a PDI barrel though so only have a very small hop window comapred to most, a prowler would likely be a better fit for the stock or other barrels.

 

Whats the finish like on the chub? Seen a few reviews that weren't too favourable of it.

 

The Chub is better made then I was expecting, no moulding lines, seems pretty clean and even. It works all the way up to 8 before jamming (This is the taller version)

 

This could be an option for the more discerning gentlemen such as myself.  https://www.skirmshop.nl/en/srs-hopup-barrel-alignement-tool.html But it might just confirm the Fast Hop was off spec... Which requires another £30! 

[Steveocee]

@Asomodai Incredible what people will buy to put their mind at ease. Takes less than a minute to take it back down and re-adjust it. It would certainly solve your issues though (or highlight the bad part). At £30 for the alignment tool though it's FAST money so yeah you'd just buy another and keep the first for spares eh?