What would be a good DMR?

[BlueberryMuffin]

1 hour ago, Iceni said:

The G&G m14 is fantastic.

The gearbox on them is a bit funky but workable. I like the solid wood ones, but the plastic ones are significantly cheaper.

Mosfet goes in the buttstock, There's a fair amount of space for a good battery as well.

Most of the internal gearbox parts are standard, gears, bushes, piston, cylinder, ect. The triggers contacts are different, and they have a unique layout. It's a Version 7 gearbox in the M14 so do a little reading on those.

There are 2 hop units commonly used depending on the model. There's a long tube M14 specific (cyma and some TM's have this), and an AUG style rotary hop with an extension tube. It depends on the make and model as to the hop type. I believe G&G use the aug style. It's a decent hop unit, plenty of spares available, Metal and CNC variants are also easy to find and reasonable in price. The plastic stock aug unit is a decent out of the box unit.

The G&G should comes with a half decent inner barrel 6.04, and it should shoot well out of the box with no upgrades.

You have to be careful selection the model you want as some are locked to semi auto only.

The plastic top cover is probably the worst bit of the gun. Even the wood ones have it. So take a good look at that top section and if you can't live witht he plastic there then move to another model.



The LCT G3 is unparalleled externally. It's pressed and welded steel. The parts that are plastic like the foregrips and stock are solid and feel like the real thing. Internally it's decent, Good gears, reasonable motor, 6.02 inner barrel. Decent hop unit. Out of the box mine shoots very well. It is compatible with real steel parts, and will take wood furniture with minimal modification. There is loads of battery space in the stock, and a mosfet would also fit there without any issues. Gearbox is a standard Version 2 rear wired.

The downsides of the LCT are it's steel, and needs the edges knocking off the pressed parts or they will cut you to ribbons, The midcaps have a feed issue that can be corrected with shimming, They don't have a mosfet. Mag compatibility is 0. You must use LCT mags.

Out of the box you may need to shim the magazine (takes 5 mins and needs 1 allen key). The plate on the bottom of the mag comes off and there is a space at the front of the mag where a length of plastic rod 5x6mm can be inserted and cut off. The range and accuracy stock are very good, I have yet to do any modification to my gun other than the shimming.

The LCT G3 looks fantastic, Feels right, and there is 0 wobble on it. You could use it like a club. They have to be seen and held to understand just how frighteningly real the thing is. It also takes all of the real steel claw mounts, Ris mounts, and slings.



The Ares SLR I know less about, the guy I go shooting with has an older no longer produced king arms steel variant. The Ares is the newest SLR in production and should have the best mag compatibility and internals. But you would have to research the model.





On track with what everyone else is saying, You don't need to go with a long rifle at all. Any gun with a 300mm or longer barrel will give the same accuracy if setup right. The most accurate out of the box guns are not the longest, or the most expensive. It's the one that gives the right upgrades. A decent inner barrel and hop, setup well on a perfect airseal should offer no more advantages than anyone else with an equal configuration.

Any of the decent brands should offer you this. ICS get a lot of love because they get the quality control right at the factory. Other brands vary in QC, but all guns that are solid should be capable of shooting well. It's just some take a little more love.

And just to make you want the LCT here's a few picture of mine! LOL

https://www.flickr.com/photos/iceni_photo/albums/72157693949766564






 

This information is something i'm going to have to revise a few times so it sinks in!!!   That is an attractive gun you have there, must be said....i've seen a few LVAO C models ,  this one in particular http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft/mk-ii-war-sport-lvoa-c-black.htm#.WsPb6yOZOAw  

 

Would you say this has quality on it's side?  I love the shape of these guns, think it's beautiful...internally speaking, they boast it to be decent.

[BigStew]

13 hours ago, Rogerborg said:

 

There's only three things happening to the BB: puff, spin, point.  Improving two out of three sounds great, but why not go crazy and start by increasing the puff, then fitting a hop and barrel to match.

i personally don't see the point of losing full auto for not much gain.

[L3wisD]

@BlueberryMuffin - just buy this.

It's had all the work done already, is TM and is a decent price!

 

 

[BigStew]

Also i have to say the CYMA M14 is brilliant value  sub £100 good range and accuracy out the box and you could make it something special for half the price of a TM M14

 

[Iceni]

2 hours ago, BlueberryMuffin said:

Would you say this has quality on it's side?  I love the shape of these guns, think it's beautiful...internally speaking, they boast it to be decent.

Krytacs have a reputation for been expensive. And also for getting a hell of a lot of things right.

You can't go wrong with them if you have no problems paying for them.

You can get pretty much the same features in the £250-300 bracket with G&G, ICS, Ares. ETU/mosfet, Bearings, Shimming done, Metal body ect ect. The difference is Krytac have spent a little extra time making it as perfect as possible before it left the factory, and it'll have the colt trades.

It's actually a very hard comparison to make because at the top end £250+ all guns blur. They all have the better end of the component selection, mosfets, bearings, shimming done right. It becomes less about the internals as you are far less likely to open it up, And more about the look and feel of the gun. It takes an exceptional gun to break out of that, be it through welded steel construction (E&L/LCT), Real steel parts, Trades (ASG/Krytac), Or performance (TM/TM High cycle).

If you are looking to spend as much as that it would be very difficult to actually make a bad decision.

[callumbagshaw]

I have a Krytac CRB (which has been upgraded - not out of choice, a few things broke on it so I put some high quality parts in there)

 

I also have a KJW KC-02 (this is also sold under a re-brand as an ASG STC - or Special Teams Carbine)

 

I can tell you FOR SURE that the best value out of both of them is the KC02. Don't get me wrong the Krytac is an amazing AEG but it's just not as satisfying to use as the KC02.

 

IMO - here are some of the top qualities of the KJW KC-02/ASG STC:

 

They have a shed load of room for upgrades, despite being great out of the box.

They have a wonderful community such as FB pages etc. which explain a load on how to take them apart, how they work etc. - this makes them a great GBBR option for beginners who are willing to learn.

They're cheap (enough)

They're light

They're durable

They're accurate, and have great effective range.

They fit a lot of M4 externals, such as pistol grips or butt stocks, but they are actually modeled on the ruger 10/22, which means that most 10/22 real steel stocks and parts fit!

They're incredibly versatile, you can use green gas, C02 or HPA to operate.

 

 

If someone said "you have 1 shot to hit this object from xyz meters away for £1million" - I'd be picking up my KC02.

 

[Wo1f]

^^ further proof that gas is the answer to long range. 

[Careless]

was going to mention the kc02 , a few guys at my local have them , one is fitted with a ruger 10/22 stock looks awesome!! changing out the stock to a rifle style stock seems easy enough aswell as theres no motor or wiring to deal with  , nice gun if your into modifying your kit , even though im not keen on the standard look of that gun , think of it as a blank canvas!!   google images = KC02 build , some seriously sick looking builds that anyone can do!

[Airsofter69]

I can spend $250 on a gun and $50 on upgrades what’s the best I can get and if there is a gun that costs $300 that’s better than the $250 with small upgrade tell me 

Actually what’s the best I can build buy it doesn’t matter I just have $300 to get or build the best in the price range

[Impulse]

Ok, I have some potentially weird opinions on this so bear with me.

 

To me, a DMR should always be a longer gun. It should always be a rifle that can be used as a DMR in the real steel world. I like immersion when I play airsoft, and even at a skirmish weekend will usually headcanon some sort of narrative behind my participation in games. Walking in with an arp9 converted to be a DMR is going to make me go ":(". I'll never tell people they can't do it, as people can play however they want, even weird roleplay nerds like me, but it's really not my style.

 

With that said, the Cyma M14 is a fantastic option. Whether you go for the full size or socom, both are fantastic platforms for a DMR (but full size is best because muh immersion). However, the v7 gearbox is a pain to work on. Perhaps getting some sort of sr-25 or mk12 SPR would be an idea as their gearboxes are far simpler to work on and you'll still very much have that long range DMR look. I would advise against getting some premium brand RIF unless you're made of money and want full trademarks, as much like in the world of bolt action sniper rifles you're going to be stripping a lot of the internals out anyway if you're serious about going DMR.

 

However, I am also one of those people who think building a DMR (in terms of upping the power to 1.6J) a bit too situational. You'll gain minimal range, but lose a whole 20 - 30m of MED. I've been having fantastic results with my cyma M14 that I've kept at 1J, outranging most of the snipers at my local field, and all I did was buy an Umbrella Armory r-hopped tightbore into it because I didn't want to open the fresh hell that is the v7 gearbox again like I did on my TM. I still use it like a DMR, as I don't think I've fired it on full-auto since I bought it, but without the MED, which is also the same as bolt actions at 30m at my local site.

 

Also in my opinion, I think HPA is the way to go with DMRs. You get the silence, but you also get adjustable power so if you don't feel like dealing with an MED for the day, you can adjust the regulator to drop the power to 1J. HPA systems are also really expensive to build though. I want to convert my own m14 to HPA at some point in the future, but I also want a mortgage more xD

[Arwen]

For what it's worth, I turned my Falkor Defence Recce into a "~1.1 joule " DMR. For two main reasons:

1. I am terrible and judging MED in many locations.

2. I didn't feel the range increase vs the med to be worth it if I upped it to a "proper" DMR. 

 

It's currently shooting ~340fps with .2's. I can't remember what the fps is with .25's that I normally use it's easily shooting around 75m in range (measured on google maps... See picture 😅, it shoots the first red box on the left, but struggles to reach the red box on the right of the road at the corner of the building).

 

It's upgrades centered around range and accuracy rather than rapid fire. It still shoots full auto with no problems, but it's not anything exceptional there. 

 

I'd have a long hard look at your playing style and your regular playing sites to see if a DMR is actually worth it, or if you should just get a range focused aeg/gbb.