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THE TM MWS thread

Wo1f

By Wo1f,
in Gas Guns

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AlphaBear Veteran

AlphaBear

Posted
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I’m just wondering if you cut down the gas tube, even in a MWS mag, would this procedure help you having to vent your mags when filling them up? In case  there is an air pocket or something in the mag. Or is there some other knack we can use. Like 5 second bursts and tapping the mag a few times or do you go for a straight 20 second full burst till the gas spills out the valve? 

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C-Diddy
C-Diddy

Well, many days after starting, I've finally finished all 200 pages. Apart from figuring out that I really need to do more with my spare time, here are my main take homes from the thread: The MW

Wo1f
Wo1f

As a lot of threads end up with one of us recommending the Tokyo Marui MWS, and i get PM's asking about it, i figured I'd start a thread to keep all of the information in one place. Here i plan on cov

mightyjebus
mightyjebus

so I eventually joined the MWS club and to make it have a variable FPS because of the crazy UK weather I fitted an NPAS I was worried that the little adjustment tool would disappear into my

SSPKali Mentor

SSPKali

Posted
Posted
25 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:

I’m just wondering if you cut down the gas tube, even in a MWS mag, would this procedure help you having to vent your mags when filling them up? In case  there is an air pocket or something in the mag. Or is there some other knack we can use. Like 5 second bursts and tapping the mag a few times or do you go for a straight 20 second full burst till the gas spills out the valve? 

I use 2 second fill, then do the next mag and rotate around the 5 mags until all have had a 10 second fill in total. Easily enough for 3 mags worth of BBs (either modded Gen1 or stock Gen 2 TM MWS mags)

 

If you over fill the mag you end up with lots of liquid in them (so lots of shots) BUT not much of a gas layer above which is what propels the BB. After a couple of shots you will need to wait for more of the liquid to boil off into gas and get up to pressure before you have enough for the next shot. Less of an issue in hot climates but for the UK it can be a pain as there isn’t much residual heat in the mag body to do this or avoid cool-down.

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AlphaBear Veteran

AlphaBear

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2 hours ago, SSPKali said:

I use 2 second fill, then do the next mag and rotate around the 5 mags until all have had a 10 second fill in total. Easily enough for 3 mags worth of BBs (either modded Gen1 or stock Gen 2 TM MWS mags)

 

If you over fill the mag you end up with lots of liquid in them (so lots of shots) BUT not much of a gas layer above which is what propels the BB. After a couple of shots you will need to wait for more of the liquid to boil off into gas and get up to pressure before you have enough for the next shot. Less of an issue in hot climates but for the UK it can be a pain as there isn’t much residual heat in the mag body to do this or avoid cool-down.

That’s a good idea actually. I’ll give that a go next time I play. All my mags are gen2 and I don’t want to particularly open them up and chop the gas tube if there is no need to. 
 

The only other thing I noticed last week was that many people were running Nuprol 3 and I was told they got better performance than running Abbey Ultra Predator. I guess that’s probably coz N3 is proper green gas whereas AUP is 144a on steroids?

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SSPKali Mentor

SSPKali

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1 hour ago, AlphaBear said:

That’s a good idea actually. I’ll give that a go next time I play. All my mags are gen2 and I don’t want to particularly open them up and chop the gas tube if there is no need to. 
 

The only other thing I noticed last week was that many people were running Nuprol 3 and I was told they got better performance than running Abbey Ultra Predator. I guess that’s probably coz N3 is proper green gas whereas AUP is 144a on steroids?

I am using ASG Ultrair as it is consistent and on offer at PatrolBase. Nuprol Red is Propane with some Ethane to boost the pressure a bit (nuprol Green equates to pure Propane according to the Wiki article on the gas pressure at 20degC


Unless it is close to freezing Nuprol Red is overkill.

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AlphaBear Veteran

AlphaBear

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Posted (edited)
30 minutes ago, SSPKali said:

I am using ASG Ultrair as it is consistent and on offer at PatrolBase. Nuprol Red is Propane with some Ethane to boost the pressure a bit (nuprol Green equates to pure Propane according to the Wiki article on the gas pressure at 20degC


Unless it is close to freezing Nuprol Red is overkill.

What sort of FPS do you get with ASG ultra air? temp dependent and all that. 

Edited by AlphaBear
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SSPKali Mentor

SSPKali

Posted
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31 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:

What sort of FPS do you get with ASG ultra air? temp dependent and all that. 

Std bolt and nozzle on 250mm barrel =335-340fpd on 0.20g and about 265-270fps on 0.30g at 20degC

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AlphaBear Veteran

AlphaBear

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Just now, SSPKali said:

Std bolt and nozzle on 250mm barrel =335-340fpd on 0.20g and about 265-270fps on 0.30g at 20degC

Awesome!!! Those are super stats..

 

And the offer on PB is superb. Thanks for the heads up. I’ll order a few bottles at that price and give it a go. 

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sp00n Veteran

sp00n

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Well I cut my gas tubes in half (64mm removed), it now holds a lot more (up from +/- 5s to 15+s) gas

 

semi shot count is also up massively (was 30-40 to 80+Before cooldown/tail off)

 

very happy now 😎

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sp00n Veteran

sp00n

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13 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:

Going back to the topic of the MWS green gas mod... Is there any specific length the gas tube should be cut off? 


bespoke airsoft has a vid where he cuts them down to 1” long … but if you have gen2 mags I am told it’s not needed 🤷‍♂️

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MalcyFett Collaborator

MalcyFett

Posted
Posted

I should be receiving my 1st MWS CQBR  this time next week, in the meantime I've been slowly grabbing bits to tart it up with. That said I'm a bit of a noob with GBBR's so I'm hoping someone can help with a couple of questions.

 

I've read through the whole thread, but I'm just after some confirmation. I'm still deciding if I'll turn the CQBR into a MK18 or an URGI, if I go the MK18 route, I'm guessing that one of these https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/madbull-mk18-95-inch-daniel-defense-sopmod-iiris-ii-desert-tan and https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pts-adapter-ring-for-marui-m4-mws-gbb plus a few washers for the screws for the rail would be ok?

 

As for a mk16, if I grab the Z-Parts 9.3" handguard, I'm guessing I don't need anything else to make it fit?

 

 

 

 

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AlphaBear Veteran

AlphaBear

Posted
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1 hour ago, MalcyFett said:

I should be receiving my 1st MWS CQBR  this time next week, in the meantime I've been slowly grabbing bits to tart it up with. That said I'm a bit of a noob with GBBR's so I'm hoping someone can help with a couple of questions.

 

I've read through the whole thread, but I'm just after some confirmation. I'm still deciding if I'll turn the CQBR into a MK18 or an URGI, if I go the MK18 route, I'm guessing that one of these https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/madbull-mk18-95-inch-daniel-defense-sopmod-iiris-ii-desert-tan and https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pts-adapter-ring-for-marui-m4-mws-gbb plus a few washers for the screws for the rail would be ok?

 

As for a mk16, if I grab the Z-Parts 9.3" handguard, I'm guessing I don't need anything else to make it fit?

 

 

 

 

Yup that's what I have... the Madbull Mk18, the PTS washer and a few shims are needed... When I mean shims it's the lay lax barrel shims.. I have three 0.5mm on mine I believe.

 

https://eagle6.co.uk/shop/catalog/product/view/id/269/s/laylax-f-factory-front-end-shim-set-0-1mm-for-m4-next-generation-recoil-shock-series/

 

.

Oh I had to add some washers on the bolts too... Nylon ones work fine..

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GothicGhost Mentor

GothicGhost

Posted
Posted

Does anyone have any experience with fixed stock kits?

 

Would the metal buffer slow down the fire rate and the snappy response I have with stock mws?

Also what the three black bits and clear tube for?

Thank you.

Screenshot_4.png.1d1700e0e19effe9646f055f1ec21f9d.png

 

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SSPKali Mentor

SSPKali

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, occidio said:

What are your experiences with alloy / high speed bolt carriers? and can  the trigger box  hold up to the extra speed?
 

I have the Dynamic Precision light weight bolt and it works fine in my MWS.  Not sure why the trigger box might not be able to keep up? Or do you mean the bolt hold open on empty?

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occidio Contributor

occidio

Posted
Posted
37 minutes ago, GothicGhost said:

Does anyone have any experience with fixed stock kits?

 

Would the metal buffer slow down the fire rate and the snappy response I have with stock mws?

Also what the three black bits and clear tube for?

Thank you.

Screenshot_4.png.1d1700e0e19effe9646f055f1ec21f9d.png

 

 

snappy response = Gets noticeably worse

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occidio Contributor

occidio

Posted
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9 hours ago, SSPKali said:

I have the Dynamic Precision light weight bolt and it works fine in my MWS.  Not sure why the trigger box might not be able to keep up? Or do you mean the bolt hold open on empty?

I saw a review where he said that the trigger box would be worn out after some 1000 shots.


But 1 review is not the same as that it is true, so I thought I should just hear the experts in here :) 

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SSPKali Mentor

SSPKali

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3 minutes ago, occidio said:

I saw a review where he said that the trigger box would be worn out after some 1000 shots.


But 1 review is not the same as that it is true, so I thought I should just hear the experts in here :) 

Probably put that many shots through it and my trigger is still ok! I can’t even think by what mechanism that might happen…but I am obviously not an “expert reviewer” ;)

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TadsJ2 Enthusiast

TadsJ2

Posted
Posted

sorry to interfere in your discussion, but i was searching on the web and couldnt find any comments so maybe you could help me out:
how is Dytac MWS SLR upper and lower receiver kit? Is it compatible with TM bolt&trigger box or should i get G&P bolt&trigger box?

 
 
 
 
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GothicGhost Mentor

GothicGhost

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23 hours ago, occidio said:

 

snappy response = Gets noticeably worse

Yeah that what I was thinking as the stock one pretty light.

 

I guess then my other concern if I was to DMR the gun to  I would need to replace the plastic buffer with a stronger one ?

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