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Spring or hop upgrade?


Frosty0769
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Hi All

 

I went outfit my first game with my new G&G T4-18 Gen2 last Saturday. The RIF looks an feels great. However it is underpowered. When chrono'd it came out at 298 with .2's. At there is s distinct lack of distance compaired to those I was playing wit and against.

I know the gun is new and will take some time to bed in but if I'm correct IT won't get any more powerful. I played with the hop a fair bit but this just ended up with the same lack of real useful distance of with the bb flying straight then shooting vertical from mid flight.

I tried .25's and it went a little further and more steady but still achieved the same results.

So my question is three fold. Do I upgrade the spring to get it nearer 350, replace the hop or let it all bed in? Or maybe all?

Thanks in advance.

Frosty

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that seems really low for a new G&G, they are usually shooting around the 330'ish mark (my cm16) upto 340'ish (my g&g sr25)

 

but i agree with monty.

 

Just out of interest have you field stripped it?

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clean the barrel before you do ANYTHING else.

I have a barrel cleaning rod, but tbh I've not really looked at it. Do I need small cloths to run through like on a real rifle or does the rod not need it? Sorry for my lack of knowledge.

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scraps of lint free cloth work well, I've used cut up kitchen roll to good effect in the past too.

soak it in a heavy duty solvent like meths to get the grease out of the barrel, repeat it with a new piece every 'pull through' til it comes out clean, then run one dry piece through and you should see immediate performance gains.

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Also worth checking that when you put it back together you're getting a good airseal. 298 does seem a bit low for a new G&G but it wouldn't have me reaching for a new spring straight off.

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My T4-18 gen 3 started at 315 but its dropped to 295 after a couple of games. I suspect the airseal is to blame as I know these guns come with M100 springs. The airseal on my CM wasn't good so I suspect the toptech airseal isn't much better considering the parts that are in it. But I haven't yet cracked the gearbox open to see if that is the issue, just my suspicions after working on my other G&G gun and how the performance has dropped over time.

 

I too have range issues, its not just the FPS however its also the core accuracy of the gun. At range it will spread out very wide and be very inaccurate. I initially thought it was the hop but I think its actually the inner barrel and airseal on mine.

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just a question, how do you check the airseal? It's a shame because my site doesn't chrono, and I have no way of finding out how my gun is shooting, what would good airseal feel like and also bad airseal?

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What!? What sort of site doesn't check the guns?

IK, thats what I thought. I have had no issues so far. And also, its 400 for bolt action snipers, however there is a marshal there that always carries an ares MSR, upgraded to 500 fps. And to top it all off, he doesn't wear a Hi vis jacket. APart from that the site isn't half bad. It may seem bad though tbh, it is still a very fun site

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If you are going to work on your guns yourself you need to buy a chronograph. Think about it this way, if you do determine that the airseal or something needs fixing, get some parts or do some mods to repair it then put it back together the next time you'll find out is right before a game when they are checking if your gun is allowed at their site. This is not the right moment to be finding out its shooting at 200 fps or 400fps. The right moment is when its back on your bench and you can test fire it and look at the results and take it back apart and determine the cause of the change. If you work on your gun yourself you need a chronograph. I went through the same thought process, I even paid a shop/site to chrono and then realised if I was going to do the work and learn how to I was going to need one. Essential purchase, have used it far more than I would have predicted.

 

As to the airseal the easiest way is to just remove the pneumatic parts from the gearbox, that is cylinder, piston and nozzle and then take the piston all the way back while covering the nozzle with your thumb and push. If the piston just goes right to the end and the resistance to you pushing wasn't really very tough then your airseal sucks. The ideal is that when you do this you push and it a point where the air is compressed in the cylinder and held there and none is escaping and you can just keep it under pressure like that without it escaping. A little bit of escape is ok, but no apparent resistance is the normal for a stock gun. You should try this experiment with the nozzle both flush to the cylinder head and extended out, it will test how the nozzle seal differs to the cylinder/piston as this is a very common area where seal is lost. It can also be lost from the gearbox to the hop unit so you need to make sure these sit nice and flush on each other as well and you might need to replace the hop unit if its not sealing well. The way you can test that is having eliminated the gearbox internal seal now if the FPS is still going up and down by more than about 2 fps then you still have an airseal issue, could be the bucking, could be the hop unit onto the gearbox.

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TBH now that you have cleaned the barrel, if your FPS is reading any less than 323, on average of 10 shots, I'd take it back.

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So, I've stripped it down and polished the barrel. I'm popping to Airsoft Zone in Romford tomorrow to get some supplies. I'll get it chrono'd while I'm there and if it's still coming up short I'll get them to check the pressure and possibly upgrade the spring.

 

If there is a pressure problem I'll have to go on a road trip to Pro-Airsoft Supplies to see if the can fix or replace.

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can airsoft zone not do that? I heard the guys there are very good, so even if they can't they will be honest I reckon, always good to have people who care for the sport rather than just trying to sell you as much as possible :)

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They could do but it's a long way out of my way. They're quite close to where I work, only 30 mins on the northern line. But I'm on holiday this week and going to Romford tomorrow any way. If it does have a problem I may drive on to PAS. If it's going to cost £20 to fix at Romford though I'll get it done there as it will cost £30 in fuel and congestion charge to get to PAS.

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