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Hi all Just wondering what people think is the best electirc M4 to upgrade? I've got a TM NGRS that I've abused and want to get something reliable and strong but also really accurate with upgrades.

TM VSR10 Gspec, upgraded with action army hop unit, i believe a flamingo rubber and has mancraft kit with reg installed in the stock. Comes with 5 mags, novritsch camo wrap, vortex crossfire scope, 4 novritsch mag pouches and a box of co2 capsules (approx 98). Original box included. Any indication on a reasonable asking price would be appreciated

To be honest I've been looking at the TM m40a5 springer and the tac41. Looks great. I don't mind it being spring powered as long as I can upgrade to get the best accuracy I can with a high fps and that can shoot fairly heavy bbs. Of course if I need to upgrade inner barrels, hop ups etc i will. So yeah can you suggest a springer ? Reliability accuracy and power is obviously a must. And aftermarket parts accessibility is important. Cheers. Ryan

Think I've got the lower power version, i think it goes 290 fps 450 then 560 fps...I think anyways. So what springs should I be looking at? Is it just vsr ones?

JG do a g-spec as well, but I think Cyma only do a regular one so if you were looking to get a g-spec the choices are TM or JG. You can get aftermarket parts to convert a full length to g-spec length, but that's more cost. In the end, you will be swapping out pretty much all of the internals to the point where after I bought an aftermarket stock, I was able to then build a third VSR purely out of spare and extra parts I had accumulated across the other two VSR builds I'd done. Mileage varies, but if you go all out on the internals, you're probably swapping out the hop unit, rubber, nub, inner barrel, cylinder, cylinder head, piston, spring guide, spring and trigger unit. And yes, that is literally every internal part that I just listed. There is definitely something to be said with just getting a tac41 instead, as those require a lot less upgrades, but if you're like me and don't really like the aesthetics, that's a problem. Also, in my opinion, a fully kitted out tac41 doesn't perform as well as a fully kitted out VSR, however it's a lot easier and cheaper in the end to get a tac41 that performs well than a VSR that performs as well, let alone exceptionally well. It's a good choice though if you like how it looks. If I was going to compare the tac41 to the VSR, I'd say pros and cons are: + better out of the box + has better air volume for heavier BBs / longer barrels (41cc vs ~35cc in a VSR) + easier to get it shooting quietly + easier to put attachments on such as bipods, lights etc. + has QD mounts for sling, which is probably better than the crappy sling mounts on the VSR + more options for external parts and better modularity + (much) higher performance floor - (slightly) lower performance ceiling - less adaptable for various filmsim or period milsim events or impression kits - heavier than a VSR (even the Lite version is heavier than a g-spec) - less options for internal parts

Exactly like that but built like jabba the hutt 😂 Now I just need Edcase to sell me his latest 2 acquisitions... That CT25 would fit nicely in the VSR stock and would share mags with my drug lord and I could be the Mac king 👑

I have done it. Here in the land of cowboys and Indians, we have no rules, and no limits to our wankery Here’s Leo’s simple recipe for making the refs come over and stare whenever you test fire on the range… Traditional wisdom is that fast motors and fast gears are not friends. TRADITION LIED: Tienly makes the best brushed motors on the market, if not the cheapest, followed by Star Wei. Quality build and hand-wound armatures become increasingly important if you want your build to be functional in game without the motor grip turning into one of Gusteau’s Microwaveable Plasma Ultrabirritos. Oh yeah, and shredding your brushes while it’s at it. If built well, a 40K brushed motor can get you to 40RPS when paired with 13:1 gears and an 11.1v. Gears: any solid gear set will work for a while, as long as the bevel meshes well with your pinion of choice. To actually get high speed out of this thing without brute forcing it like some sort of wanker ape, we need to push up the efficiency numbers. To hit 40, you need 80% efficiency. 85% gets you to 43. And so on. SHS/rocket work alright. Siegetek are the best (but seemingly nonexistent in the UK). Solink have a good rep with folks that I trust, and are readily available, so I would go with those. Bearings. You can go bushings if you like with no issue, but real speed demons shell out for J-caged bearings, which can handle the increased stress of what we’re about to do to them. Be wary though, as many of these suckers are tall, and can interfere with selector activities. The “shortest” on the market are 2.5mm thick. Spring. To avoid PME, we need to punch that piston fast and forcefully. PDI makes the best, but Guarder comes in a close second. I would suggest buying at least equivalent of an M130 and M140. And to bleed off that extra spring power we… Shortstroke? No. Not before we have to. Short stroking damages both our tappet timing and our pressure spike, which I’ll discuss in a second, so we avoid it if we can. Instead we shorten our barrel. As any tech knows, all the spring strength in the world means nothing if it all blows out your o-rings and packing seal. This is the same for BB acceleration time. If there is no time to accelerate, it matters not what the ultimate velocity could have been. I would aim for 100-150mm and increase if you can. Cheap stock barrels from various manufacturers can be used to great effect in testing before any expensive parts are purchased. Did you know that most G&G ARP9s come with the equivalent of an M130 installed? Short barrel, fast cycle speed, strong spring. To make sure we can feed the frenzy we need a good stiff tappet and strong spring. This isn’t too complicated. Any stock or upgrade tappet that accomplishes the mechanical demand will do just fine. Guarder makes a good one. King arms does as well. Lube the rails and make sure it slides easily. O-ring drag is real. Double o-rings were invented to solve a design/manufacturing tolerance issue, not a design/airseal issue. Nothing wrong with it if it works for you… but Arcturus, Krytac, and I believe Guarder and Lonex make great single o-ring nozzles that may very well provide better fitment with your nozzle tube and less drag while you’re at it. Pick a strong, light piston with a POM head and ditch those bearings on the PH itself. They’re worthless. You need a total weight of about 15gs to be successful here. The easiest way is to use an SHS blue with the big holes and any decent POM head. Lonex, Gate, etc, etc. You can also remove material from any good quality one. Lonex Red FMRs and Arcturus poly pistons are prime for this. As long as the cylinder and cylinder head seal and don’t have any serious tolerance issues with your other parts, they’ll do just fine. You can easily polish stock brass cylinders to near mirrors of glassy perfection. But if you need to buy one… the Guarder Chromes are nice. As long as you have at least half the cylinder the porting doesn’t matter in the slightest for this. Don’t listen to Negative Airsoft, he does not understand the physics of ported cylinders; the port is not to let air into the cylinder, it’s to allow piston preacceleration. Which brings me back to why we don’t short stroke. When the piston accelerates before sealing with the cylinder, it creates a beautiful little pressure spike that effectively gives you a lot more oomph for less. Ask any HPA user if raising the pressure on their reg changes anything and you’ll understand. Less useful knowledge in this specific case, but great for general teching. Your shimming must be the shimming of Gilgamech and BBkidnu, the great shimmers of yore. We Americans look to George Shimmington. And to power this all, you need a good battery pack. Let’s face it, the vast majority of battery makers and sellers are liars. The packs aren’t IR matched, the capacity and discharge rating are blatant untruths, and the assembly quality is poor. Running your packs at above capacity KILLS YOUR PACKS. If you plug in a beefier battery and your gun gets faster, you’re doing this. You have two ways to combat this. #1 Overcompensate. Recognize the lies, and go so far above and beyond that even the lies place you easily in the green. Turnigy NanoTechs are good candidates. #2 Buy an actually good pack. Kypom are the best I know of. Gens Ace comes second. On the American Airsoft forums we happen to have a guy with a lot of mechanical engineering experience who can actually test cell IR ratings, true capacity, and discharge rates. He’s tested quite a few, and Kypom are consistently closest to advertised. Hopefully some of this is helpful to you! tech on -Leo

Hello. I have a pretty old m4 replica that I really like the look of, so I would like to upgrade it instead of buying a new one. Right now it sounds reallllly bad, each shot you can hear how shimming is out of the way, it almost cries every shot. I dont want to only shim it, I would also like to make it much more responsive (trigger). I dont really care much about RPS if that means anything. So for that, which motor (Europe) up to about 40 - maybe 50 EUR would you recommend for that? Also, what about the other parts like the cylinder, heads, spring, etc? What brand, or even maybe what exact part would you recommend for those. For the mosfet, I am thinking to go with perun. Thanks

Recently got a noveske N4 and absolutely loved it but ran into a few things with the main bits being air seal. So it’s airsoft so I started tinkering to fix some issues to see how we nice we could get this shooting. Initial review out the box it shoots great but on green gas ( vorsk v6) I was only getting 0.8j, the lock back was very intermittent and struggled to hop 0.36g or higher BBs wit the stock bucking rubber. Upgrade 1 - Nozzle and upgrade springs i planned on installing a NPAS so i could have some finer adjustment of the FPS and everywhere flagged the DE nozzle just doesn’t work well. This is where the first upgrade comes into play Guns modified 3.5 nozzle, this was a smooth change over while is was going this I upgrade the nozzle return spring this was entirely needed as the stock DE is strong then the standard TM but has also been flagged as a point of breakage so dropped in a Waldo custom MWS 140% spring. After the upgrade we are now sitting at 0.9j with very little deviation while also helping bb feeding. Upgrade 2 - Bucking & Barrel I think I got one of the earlier guns where the installed barrel was pistol length of around 130mm this is a fast way of keeping the FPS low. So was always going to be upgrade to a full length. Prometheus 250mm barrel was installed with a 4antum bucking. I wasn’t trying to break the bank so went with something that was tried and tested. I use 4antum in some HPA builds and lifts 0.32g and higher easy with great consistency and the Prometheus has also been great bang for buck inner barrels a step up from ZCI but not as high a edgi. After the upgrade we got a huge boost to 1.1j which was great boost but also helped the grouping hugely. Upgrade 3 - Mag fixes On playing a few games the stock mags are not great I struggled on some mags to getting through a full 35 rounds. The best upgrade would be to get TM mags which seal better and have better efficiency out the box. BUT if you have already purchased the DE mags like I had you do have ways to help improve. One the gas routers aren’t great so the best swap is guns modify cold weather router which allow a great deal and work well in cold weather. The mags are also known for leaking and this is where gasket seal is your best friends. I used gasket seal in the top and bottom of the mag seals leaving 24hr to fully dry. While I had the mags apart I also trimmed down the tube inside the magazine to a 1/3 of its sizes which allows more gas into the magazine. after 24 hours and checking the seal I am able to get 2 1/2 reloads before needing to top up gas which is a huge improvement. After upgrade I found the seal and efficiency to be better this also helped push my joules upto 1.2j. Upgrade 4 - ZET plate and Feda Valve After getting the seal, mags and feeding consistent. It was team for the zet plate to help the lock back function and install the npas. I went with the Jaeger precision in stainless steel which is the same as the BavTac one which is in titanium so you can save some money there. It’s really easy to do once you remove the trigger box which is a lot easier than the TM MWS. The Feda valve is a straight replacement and doesn’t really offer a performance upgrade but allows you to adjust FPS to make sure your within site limits. Just to flag as I had already swapped the nozzle to a guns modify it meant this was a smooth insteal of the Feda valve but original DE nozzle are thicker and may need to be glued down to get the NPAS fitted. the zet plate has allowed more consistent lock up once the mag is out of BBs. The NPAS allow me to adjust FPS from 0.8j - 1.4j depending on gas on the fly without doing a full strip down. overall the upgrades have been really nice to help improve the performance which are a lot of the issues the TM MWS also has ( apart from the mags ). On full tilt on green gas it hits 1.2j, red gas pushes it to 1.4j. What makes this great is the entry point of the DE N4 it’s almost half the price. For now I’m really happy with the performance and may look into getting a HPA adapter so will drop a update on this once I tested a few out but absolutely loving the DE a few upgrades and it’s matching a upgraded TM for a fraction of the cost. Upgrade 5 - Airtac MWS/ DE HPA adaptor This took a little bit longer as my first airtac had a leak and really wasn’t sent up for the DE. So it’s not as smooth as a drop in that they claim but the dudes at Airtac were great. Sent my Airtac back and indicated I will be running it in a DE which meant the added a green spacer to help it engage the knocker easier ( this as well as spare lips are included) I still found even after this the fit was very lose which resulted in the FPS being a bit all over the place. Using some plumber tape I was able to shim ( which swap this out for Velcro ) this to sit better. This helped my consistency so much I’m getting constant 282-288 on 95psi which was great for a system which is running on air tank given me great performance all year round ad I struggle with the gas mags in anything below 10degrees. Using HPA you will need to regrease kit bolt and trigger unit more as you don’t have the silicone from the green gas to coat bits. Even with the extra weight of the tank, line being a bit more restrictive the increase in reliability of the feeding, constant FPS is great and you have the great tuning being able to push the adapter all the way to 150psi which gives you a really strong kick and have the npas I can balance it out and get the Js I need.

To be completely honest, I have a number of well set up DMRs, a well set up HPA Sniper (L96), and an assortment of AEGs. The most accurate, long ranged, and consistent of my AEGs (a bone stock Krytac) has almost the same real world performance (range and accuracy) of the DMRs and Sniper. The extra 1J between them doesn't really count for that much in the real world. But - that’s not to say the play style that comes with each category isn't fun, and its nice to mix things up a bit. From the above, it sounds like this is half your aim? Unless you are indicating that you aren't going to be playing with it, but rather just using it in the garden. In which case, i'd venture that a garden that is big enough for you to shoot an airsoft sniper within is also big enough for you to construct a half decent backstop and enjoy the infinitely superior accuracy of an air rifle. But if its is a blend of ultimate performance and aesthetics that you are after with the sniper, and you are after a light bolt pull (with the gas system you specify) - maybe consider building a half decent rifle up from a cheap VSR (Cyma are often used as bases) or an L96 (e.g. a Well MB01) - throw in a load of parts (the building is half the fun), and consider one of the these parts being an HPA drop in kit - e.g. the Mancraft SDIK.

I do my own tech work except on pistols, which I just don’t like working on. I get where you are coming from with regard to hi-fi kit. There is so much bullshit used to sell overpriced tat that is claimed to give a massive upgrade; it is very much like airsoft really.

Marui MP7 GBB - £299.99 - https://airsoftdirect.uk.com/product/tokyo-marui-mp7a1-gbb-mp7-gas-blowback/ Marui MP7 GBB Magazine x3 - £120 - https://www.bztactical.co.uk/tokyo-marui-tm-p7a1-spare-gas-mag Metal Front rail - £24.99 - https://highpressureairsoft.co.uk/products/fma-mp7-rail-system-type-2 Laylax 6.00 - £35 - https://www.firesupport.uk/laylaxnineball-600mm-power-inner-barrel-for-gbb-mp7a1-1455mm.html Steel Sear - £27.98 - https://eagle6.co.uk/product/ddc-industries-marui-mp7-gas-blowback-enhanced-sear Maple Leaf Bucking - £10 - https://www.bztactical.co.uk/maple-leaf-transformers-autobot-hop-up-rubber-vsr-gbb Pro arms return spring - £10 - https://www.socomtactical.net/products/pro-arms-130-marui-mp7-gbb-nozzle-return-spring-pack-of-3?srsltid=AfmBOorRUQ6M-7codaOGQszVQA402B8bIDk4ZQlFPuW-3Ynxli9Jl6jo RGW Socom 46 silencer/flash hider - £49 - https://www.mlemart.com/products/rgw-sf-socom46-mini-dummy-silencer-for-tokyo-marui-mp7-gbb-12mm-ccw-bk?variant=42492516237560 VG6 Offset mount - £5.56 - https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005004839343107.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2vnm WADSN Modlight OKW - £47.99 - https://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/product/wadsn-ml-fde-okw-18650-weapon-light-black-13106 WADSN DBAL with blue laser - £63 - https://www.apextacgear.com/products/wadsn-dbal-a2-integrated-blue-laser-ir-pointer-light-aimming-device-black?variant=33991361200187 WADSN Unity riser - £19 - https://www.thecageairsoft.co.uk/wadsn-un-ap-small-mount-black/ Evo Gear Sig Romeo 4T (its a 4T, not a 6T) - $140 (£104) - https://www.egtactical.com/home/922-romeo-4t-red-dot-sight-w-fast-micro-mount-.html DD Swivel Mount - £69.90 - https://www.brownells.co.uk/AR-15/M16-RAIL-MOUNT-QD-SLING-SWIVEL Total raw cost for new - £886.41 70% of total - £620.49 That's a lot of ceiling...

Prompted by the lad asking about how to get an airsoft gat for playing in a field, I was going to suggest gel blasters as I'd seen dayglo / stickerbomb ones for sale. But, well, well, well, looks like they've gone full RIF. For example https://gelweapons.co.uk/collections/gel-blasters/ You can even find them for sale on Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blaster-Goggles-Upgrade-Version-Backyard/dp/B0DFP99WQY (I've reported that one to see if they care). These are quite obviously RIFs. They're not airsoft guns, and they can't claim our defence. They seem to be over 1J, so would notionally be "lethal barrelled" air guns (just because they're intended to shoot gel balls doesn't mean you couldn't drop steel BBs in). They might even need an air gun licence in Scotshire. Heck, full auto and "lethal barrelled"... I'm assuming that the sellers and owners are just getting away with it because, well, nobody cares. Just pure disinterest from the police and trading standards. At this point, I rather suspect that having a defence and a defined non-firearm category is the only thing that's making airsoft retailers ask for a defence.

I just worked out what you were thinking then. m110 is about 360fps... on a .2, but I imagine the online power converter when you were running the numbers through that was doing 360fps on a .3, which would be 1.8J. This is not how springs work, so just assume the M rating is related to speed on .2s. The best way to work out which spring is best is... trial and error, honestly. Not all springs are created equally, and there are other factors that will go into the power at the end. An m150 spring is the most accurate for getting to the 2.3J limit on a .2, but it won't work in all builds with all BB weights as there are other things that go into it. When I put an m150 spring in my VSR setup it got me to 2.8J because of my setup, while my friend needed to put an m160 in his (it was shorter). I have another with a bore-up kit that I put an m135 spring in and it was 2.6J, so I reckon I might need to put an m120 in that one to get it below 2.32J. At least springs aren't expensive. I went through quite a few with my VSR builds finding the best ones for the builds I did.

Very much a day of two half’s at Driver Wood yesterday. For me, the morning was a rather frustrating affair, and for the first time ever, I left a game slightly early to head for lunch as the enjoyment just wasn't there. The morning revolved around two games of circa 1 hour - although with the larger numbers now experienced at Driver Wood since the demise of DogTag (I think there were 117 in attendance) the game time was eaten into rather a lot by dawdling players (despite pretty good efforts from the marshalling team to chivvy them along). A slightly garbled brief from a relatively new head marshal (although by far not the worst I’ve experienced), which ended in the team count being messed up, with one team having 40 players more than the other. As people were already grabbing their arm bands when this was identified, it seemed to only be partially rectified. The two games that then unfolded were excruciatingly one sided, most notably the final game of the morning - my entire team was pinned into a 40- 50m radius around our spawn in the corner of the site, barely able to move out of it before getting shot. Tempers were flaring up as well, with several shouted arguments between opposition players (not sure if it was just one 'bad apple' that was the root of it) - something that I haven’t really come across much before at the site. I also received a bit of verbal aggression myself when i attempted to re-spawn at our teams second spawn (Driver Wood have a 'hard spawn' and a roaming spawn marked by the teams flag) to find that the enemy had captured and surround it, despite our team flag still being there. I know the opposite team didn't have the best couple of games either, with some of them complaining that our team 'just weren’t moving about' (well - there was a reason for that!). The afternoon was much much better - the numbers were lower with some leaving at lunch - and the teams were re-balanced (properly!). Some great game play, once again able to pull off some sneaky moves, and use the full expanse of the site. Guns used - HPA L96 (not shooting as accurately as I would have liked), M16 A1 (with faux wood furniture), Mk 12 DMR, MP5. The Mk12 and MP5 were the stars of the show, particularly pleased with the Mk12 as I had built that from parts (supper accurate and long ranged), and the Cyma MP5 - with a simple upgrade to a MR hop rubber - was shooting beautifully (accurate and snappy).

Hi all, bought the maple leaf mlc 338 last night and picked it up this morning. Now this was an impulse buy I must admit haha 😄 so the only reviewing I've done is literally looked at a few pics online. Now the one I've bought comes with a fluted barrel...the spiral outer barrel. The ones online that I seen don't have this. On the box it does say the deluxe version. And the tag for the testing that they did before they shipped it says 2024. Just not sure what version I've actually bought. It doesn't come with the fake mag holder either so im a bit lost with it.Also any upgrades for higher fps hop ups etc please let me know thanks. It's shooting great out of the box but it's a bit of a project gun that I'd want to upgrade if possible. Thanks for your time.

as someone else stated above, all tm pistols are reliable. Both of the pistols mentioned in the real world would be double stacked magazines - makes no difference in Airsoft but means you have a larger gas reservoir than say a traditional 1911. Both have pros and cons in my opinion. m&p pros - highly ergonomic and really comfy in the hand and looks a lot nicer ( only my opinion) cons - not as many after market parts as hi-Capa. hi Capa Pros - lots of upgraded parts easily available cons - not as aesthetically pleasing as the M&P. I have a 5.1 and it took a Kimber style externals to stop it looking so square. I’ve owned most types of pistol over the years; I’ve found the ergonomics of the M&P to be the best in my hand. alternatively if you’re willing to venture away from the options you listed; the HK.45 is really good - once again a highly ergonomic pistol. Or the FNX.45 is also an excellent choice but lacks upgrade parts.

VSR G Spec stock This was mk1, didn't survive being cocked unfortunately, mk2 in ABS coming shortly after some tweaks.

Noone is going to care about the upgrades or not. If anything the second I see 'upgrade' I am avoiding like the plague, especially a high ROF RIF which just screams broken internal potential. The money you are asking is ludicrous. Entirely your right to do so but ludicrous none the less

Just wanted to say hi, i been playing for about a year and i have a few guns, but i just got myself the E&C 203 417 DMR. I have never really upgraded my pews pews before i have always left them standard out of box. But i want to help this one to be able to deal with the heavier BB's like .38. So am i just needing to upgrade the hopup rubber and bucking? Or the whole hopup system with a Maxx or EON? If a Rubber what type do i need for a DMR? This 75% 50% kinda confused me to be honest. Thanks in advance.

First off, hi! Secondly, the go-to for DMR building is this thread here: https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/the-holy-grail-of-building-your-dmr-aeg.892/ You're looking for consistency shot to shot in the main. If your hop is struggling to lift heavier BBs and your power is where you want it, there's no air leaks and minimal variance on power between shots then I'd say start with the hop rubber and nub. Maxx and Eon hop units aren't always an upgrade, while they are made to higher tolerances than a lot of hop units, this can work against them if they don't work right in your gun. If you have inconsistent power or you can't get to the power you want with just a bigger spring then you have other issues which will affect the accuracy and consistency of the gun.

Seems fair. I figured that might be the answer, but good to have confirmation - cheers! I need to have a dig around in the loft to see if I still have the original box it came in. If I'm in luck, I might have kept the packaging some of the upgrade parts came in too. I had tried digging through old emails to retrace my steps but wasn't having much luck.

Recently got myself the LEVAR 15”, it runs 320-340fps on 0.2 bbs My Vision is to run it as a sniper, my sites limit on 0.36 bbs are 373fps I’ve been able to HPA tap it successfully with the CQB Russian GBB HPA Adapter what would everyone recommend to get my FPS up to that desired 373 on 0.36s (translates to around 500 fps on 0.2s) After extensive research I plan on making a 3d print out of polycarbonate with less room for the gas to escape. other than this does anyone have any other recommendations?

Hi, I’m looking to upgrade my WE-Tech AKS-74U gbbr stock pistol grip to a Bakelite/fakelite grip. I understand that it will not be a straight drop in, as the WE-Tech grip uses small tabs to stay in place and real steel pistol grips do not. I was wondering if anyone has any experience modifying real steel AK grips to fit WE-Tech, and what it entails. I also understand that some older Bakelite grips may contain asbestos, and I would therefore like to do as little modification/filing/sanding as possible. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Many theanks!

Vague description of the item and the seller is expecting people not to ask any questions. If people are asking questions about your advert then then you probably didn't invest enough effort. Not to mention the ''upgraded this'' and the ''upgraded that'' but there are no details about the ''upgrade'' part such as brand or model. My personal favourite is the ''selling for a mate'' First of all, what prevents your mate to create an account and submit an advert. Secondly, if you do sell on behalf of someone then you'll be responsible, can't blame the ''mate'' if something turns out to be not as described and you'll have to provide after sales support. And then last but not least: The fully dressed RIF with optics, lasers, lights on the pictures but they are ''only for show''. Why the hell would you put on a full range accessories if they are not included in the sale? Nobody cares about how sexy your WADSN torch and FMA PEQ15 is 😂