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Introduction: The lost art of capacitors in airsoft The mythical powers of "capacitor banks" is not a new idea in airsoft, but the original sources and theories are lost in time, with only faint forum posts remain (all the links are dead in https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/capacitor-banks-revisited.8688/). In my pursuit of the ultimate trigger response in AEG, power supply remains a big unresolved issue because batteries (LiPo or NiMH) do not really give enough oomph for lack of a better word. We need something better, I thought, we need supercapacitors. And so I set out to rediscover the elementals of such dark magic from scratch (but based on the same principles). And I believe I have revived this magic which I will share my formula below. And dare I say, the surface of this dark art has not really been scratched, because the predecessors either did not use enough capacity (some examples were in the order of millifarads which is not nearly enough), and did not really use the correct type of supercaps (stacked coin cells hybrid types are not capable of high amps). And perhaps the right modules were not available until very recently, so this study will also represent a fresh look into this subject. If you want the bottom line: Why supercaps at all, isn't LiPo good enough? In short (excuse the pun), LiPo cannot provide sufficient peak current for the amp spikes during start of motor which is often in the region of 45-60 A. These micro-events of shorts (from the perspective of the battery) is also a main pathology of LiPo degrading and swelling over time. These spikes happen every shot in semi, and in the first shots in full-auto. This status quo practice of relying on abusing LiPo as sacrifice for performance does not sit well with me, because firstly it is electrically primitive, and secondly it is a safety risk in this toy gun industry that I think is unnecessary and should be done away with, at least as much as possible. The whole premise of using supercaps is to provide a voltage reservoir for surge power during these initial amp spikes. This is needed because these amp spike often exceed the capabilities of the battery (even LiPo) and the batteries drops voltage in response (for milliseconds) and unable to feed all the current needed for this initial spin-up of the motor. In theory, it can achieve the following: Surge power for much more responsive motor, resulting in snappier trigger response. Stabilised voltage supply for full-auto, resulting in better ROF. Protecting batteries from surge currents, prolonging their lifespan and minimise risks of LiPo fire. My evidence and theorisations are as follows. What is the actual energy requirement? To begin to figure out the solution, we need to ask, what is the minimum capacity to be effective? We can analyse these two graphs from airsoftlab.eu for theorycrafting. http://www.airsoftlab.eu/docs/experiments/motor_current/ To figure out the ballpark of energy levels we are talking about, I have picked two cases representative of a high stress build (with a 16 TPA motor) and a more optimal build (with a 28 TPA). The first graph is with 16 TPA motor, SP130, 13:1, to illustrate a typical suboptimal setup with a low torque motor paired with a high stress spring and gear ratio. The second graph is with a more comfortable 28 TPA motor with SP130 and 13:1 to show a more efficient setup. Just by eyeballing the graphs (and the blog), we can character these spikes (and the energy required to tame them) to be about 45A to 60A, for a duration of about 60ms. 16 TPA: 28 TPA: What do the numbers mean? There is a simple answer, and a more complex one. A simplistic way to translate this to farad (the capacity we need), using the 16 TPA setup as example, 60A for 60ms is 3.6 coulomb, which at 11.1V is about 0.324 F. For the 28 TPA example, this would be 2.7 coulomb, at 11.1 V this is 0.243 F. Therefore we can say our ballpark figure is about 0.25 F to 0.33 F as a minimum target. If we are aiming to create a unit that can work with worst case scenario, let's go with 0.33 F. However because supercaps discharge their voltage linearly (meaning their 11.1 V drops down to zero as it discharges over the 60 ms), we can think of it as sharing the workload with the battery in a 1:1 ratio (this is very simplified), meaning it is only doing half of the work while the batteries still need to supply the other half of the current (which is a big improvement already). Here is a prediction: In this predicted scenario, the amp spike seen by the battery should be reduced to less than half, because the supercaps will react faster to supply the spike, but as the supercap runs out of voltage, the battery will notice the difference in voltage and catch up, eventually supplying the full load in full-auto, but at a much improved stability. And as the trigger is released, the current stops, the supercaps are charged up again to battery voltage as the battery recovers from voltage sag. We can offload even more work from the batteries if we multiply the supercap capacity (say 3 times, to 1 F) so the they will perform in a 3:1 relationship i.e. 75% of the work are done by supercaps, which will stabilise the current even more. If we go bigger, say 1.66 F, the ratio will be 5:1, or 83% of work being done by supercaps. (The actual result will probably be better, the ratios e.g. 1:1 at 0.33 F are just conservative notional numbers I made up for ease of explanation. Supercaps are more responsive than batteries, and the overall lowered battery stress should further reduce overall voltage sag, so the battery should see less than 50% of the peak current, but I don't have the equipments to proof this hypothesis.) So let's say our notional baseline is 0.33 F, now we just need to implement this theory. Designing a supercaps unit Here is our goal: 1. Supercaps with total capacity of 0.33 F or more, bigger the better. 2. Voltage should be ok for airsoft usage. (Say a fully charged 11.1 V LiPo is around 12.6 V) 3. Overall size to be small enough to fit in a typical buffer tube, with room for cable management for most cases. Smaller the better. 4. (Bonus feature) built-in safety to drain residue voltage when unplugged. 5. (Bonus feature) LED to indicate presence of voltage. The obvious (and probably the only viable) strategy is to use 3 no. of 5-6 V supercaps in series to give us a 15-18 V headroom for the maximum 12.6 V we are expecting from a fully charged 11.1. The first problem is selection of supercaps. The second problem is designing the whole package that can physically fit inside the buffer tube. Long story short, here is my blueprint: (Just connect the supercaps in series, and then parallel with the batteries, I don't have a drawing) The Eaton supercaps I am using are the highest capacity that can still fit inside a typical buffer tube and wiring, and with one of the better ESR in its class, and can theoretically suffer 115 A of thermals over 60 ms, and tested to MIL-STD 202G for shock and vibration. They are wired (I'm using some fancy SPEC 44 16 awg wires) to a connector that goes between the AEG wire and battery wire, so it is completely plug and play, and removable for safety and for storage. It can in fact be stacked up (if you have multiple units) to give extra performance. For extra safety I have included a bleeder resistor to discharge the residue voltage in maximum 3 hours after it is unplugged. Also for safety (and aesthetics) I added an LED for visual indication of voltage presence. I am tempted to call it the PASTA 1000 (Pseudotectonic Advanced SupercapaciTor Array 1000 mF) but any suggestions welcome. Here is what it looks like in real life: Testing AEG: Specna E-19, completely stock (which has an X-ASR mosfet preinstalled.) Battery: 9.6 V NiMH, fully charged, measuring about 11.32 V when testing. This is just a simple A/B test to see if the supercaps work at all. I will simply alternate between plugging and unplugging the supercaps several times, then take measurements with groups of 6 to 7 shots, until the data are fairly consistent and/or a pattern can be identified. The groups are measured in Audacity and averaged and rounded to nearest millisecond. Also note I am not testing with any magazine inserted because A. that is not going to make massive difference either way and B. it is one less variable to worry about and C. if a BB goes off it is going to affect my measurements with sound. The results: Stock setup (without supercaps), group #1: Trigger response: from trigger action = 83 ms, from motor spin-up = [data missing] ROF: ~17.17 RPS With supercaps, group #1: Trigger response: from trigger action = 81 ms, from motor spin-up = 57 ms ROF: ~17.48 RPS (+1.8%) Stock #2: (I stopped measuring full-auto because it is getting too loud for the neighbours) Trigger response: from trigger action = 96 ms, from motor spin-up = 64 ms With supercaps #2: Trigger response: from trigger action = 74 ms (-23%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-3%) Stock #3: Trigger response: from trigger action = 90 ms (+22%), from motor spin-up = 69 ms (+11%) With supercaps #3: Trigger reponse from trigger action = 71 ms (-21%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-10%) Stock #4: Trigger response: from trigger action = 84 ms (+18%), from motor spin-up = 68 ms (+10%) With supercaps #4: Trigger response: from trigger action = 76 ms (-10%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-9%) Stock #5: Trigger response: from trigger action = 80 ms (+5%), from motor spin-up = 69 ms (+11%) With supercaps #5: Trigger response: from trigger action = 75 ms (-6%), from motor spin-up = 61 ms (-12%) Analysis of results: Definitely a noticeable audio difference in trigger response. The only way to describe it is it sounds more "instant" and there is less of the spin-up whine. I am not sure why the groups vary quite a bit (maybe battery and/or gearbox settling) but I think it is fair to say the supercaps are making a difference. If we average the data after group #3, with supercaps, the overall trigger response is about 14% improved, with the cycling time from motor spin-up is remarkably consistent at about 11% improved. The shorter lag time from trigger action to motor spin-up can be explained by the voltage stability provided by the supercaps. Overall I didn't know what to expect but I would say 14% improved trigger response is pretty good. It is definitely not a negligible difference, and definitely noticeable when compared side by side. But going by feel alone, it definitely feels a bit more snappy. ROF is probably improved a little bit, but more testing needed. The installation: This may be the only draw back. To actually fit the unit inside the buffer tube along with the X-ASR is a massive hassle, which I have to actually remove the original long heat shrink around the three wires to get them to flex, and re-crimp two out of three of the spade connectors to the X-ASR because they were damaged by too much bending. And even when the supercaps are in, it is still very stuck and you need to wrestle the wires to get the battery on and close the butt plate. Although I have done it with the stock fully collapsed and if I install it with the stock a few positions out, it will be easy. Once it's on, it works. But it is definitely not ideal if you have any in-line mosfet like mine. However if you use a proper mosfet inside the gearbox and just have wires in the buffer tube, it should fit very easily, potentially upping the supercaps to 5 F ones for even better trigger response. There is no noticeable sparks or heat or anything when install and in use. It simply lights up when you plug it in and it just works with zero drama. Here is how it looks like installed, with a fully collapsed stock, and without the stock: (it barely fits) To uninstall: If the battery is disconnected with just the supercaps plugged into the gun, the gun will barely able to do one shot and the second shot will be stopped by the mosfet because the voltage will have dropped too low. This is just as expected and fairly consistent with the maths. The LED: When you unplug everything, the LED stays on but slowly dims down over the course of about an hour (just as designed). This shows the draining resistor and the LED are all working as intended. I could also feel zero heat from the resistor, which is great and again matching expectation. The LED still visibly faintly glows even at as low as 2 V so it works perfectly for its purpose as a voltage indicator. The red LED is pretty to look at, although I might change the colour to something like blue or green, because the red can be mistaken as error from the mosfet. I might also move it to the "top" side of the "plug". Conclusion of experiment: The prove of concept is a success. Most importantly there is certainly a performance benefit (14% in my test). All the maths check out. The unit is fully functional and fully match the expectations. It literally is plug-and-play. The installation can be a hassle for wire management but that is purely down to physical space and should not be a problem if you are not using in-line mosfet. Conclusions and speculations More testing is needed with other setups, if you would like one for testing I can make you a copy for a fee. The tech tree can potentially branch into AKs or other platforms or even external compartments, but I don't have any of these for development. Here is a summary of what this device can do. The biggest feature for me is safety, because when the LiPo (or any battery) is shielded from stress they are much less likely to puff up over time and starting a fire. Another key thing is of course the performance. It works very well in my very first little experiment. Electrically the overall voltage floor and current ceiling is improved. Adding supercaps is a bit like transitioning from NiMH to LiPo, but on steroids. There is also where the drawbacks are, because a mosfet is probably a good idea for such power, and if you want to collapse the butt stock you will need a more advanced mosfet that sits inside the gearbox rather than the buffer tube, for cable management reasons. (If you copy what I did you will risk breaking some wires) In terms of use cases, it will benefit NiMH the most because the performance is suddenly brought closer to that of LiPo because the performance gap is effectively closed, making NiMH a viable option again. In fact it makes NiMH better than LiPo because NiMH is much safer. This is also a must if you are chasing the state-of-the-art trigger response or battery efficiency in any build. It will also help with cold weather performance. And the best thing is, this is essentially a "free upgrade" because it is an entirely new component added to the system, it does not replace or compete with any existing parts, and it doesn't need any complicated installation, it is literally plug-and-play. The only downside for now is with wire management inside the buffer tube to make room for it. I am not sure if there is enough space for guns other than an M4 but maybe you can find creative ways to fit it e.g. longer wires. This can potentially benefit rental fleets because it is the easiest upgrade possible with zero overhead on tech, plus it makes your NiMH or LiPo inventory much safer and longer lasting. The savings in overhead for battery management could be worth the investment. And when a gun dies you can very easily transplant it to the replacement gun. In theory, you can actually stack multiple units for extra performance (the only problem is finding the space to put them). Conclusion is, and I am probably biased, supercaps could be the next best thing in airsoft. If the space problem can be resolved. Please do comment if you spot any issues in the theory or in the blueprint. Thank you for reading.

Is it too late to upgrade it to a CYMA or Double Eagle? https://www.youtube.com/@NegativeAirsoftTech/search?query=vfc

I happen to know some American manufacturers for quality sights, accessories, barrels, lots of stuff but small, in-house manufacturing trying to complete with the likes of holosun trijicon Magpul but I don't know how much air softer are willing to spend...but these are actual work accessories. I wanna know how they operate on the field, QCB, or long distance (as far as is possible)... May I suggest: cyelee calf or wolf series rmr or micro red dot. Features shake awake technology and auto off after 5 min rest. Range from 80 bucks to 250. durable as trijicon rmr. Or any of the at3tactical.com Reddot scopes and sights for Under 300 and for 120 you can get a durable 12 brightness with hogue armor and riser in full or co witness and auto on for under 180...lasers sights and scopes on here too. DaggerDefense is a vet owned optics manufacturer with multiple reticle option on there optics for decent quality and clarity. Many have said the SIG Romero3 on wish is the exact same as the real thing @66usd...but buy at your own risk...other good American manufacturing ideas may be to call Francis Tuttle votech school in OKC,OK and offer a bulk rate proposal for distribution. They do CNC machining, cad, welding and any metal work you could pay for...let me know if any of these sound good or work...also I have an AT3 reddot if anybody is willing to try it on a setup. I'm not really worried about it I wanna upgrade. Just need notes.

As a note, brushless motors have a lot more torque than brushed. This varies with build and motor, but, as an example, The T238 brushess motor I use in my main build runs at about 99% efficiency (shooting 1.5J), rather than the more typical 80%. I can also highly recommend the T238 brushless motors. I use two, and have a few hundred thousand cycles combined on them. I've had no issues (yet...), and have found that their pinions mesh beautifully with both stock style Chinese/XYT sets, and "upgrade" sets such as SHS. Are they worth it? That depends entirely on you. For my purposes, the answer is yes. They don't go in every build, but on my go to replica that I pick up and play with constantly, the low power draw, no heat, smooth cycling, and reliability is nice. But, of course, they cost 3x a normal brushed motor that'll do just fine, and 1.5x a really nice brushed motor like a Tienly. It's all up to your personal opinion.

I've been trawling the net and it would appear that there are so many different variations when it comes to upgrades. Everyone has a different method. I've devised a selection of parts based on my research and i woukd like to find your opinions on my choices Action army trigger box+piston Laylax spring guide Maple leaf stainless cylinder M150 spring Pdi hop chamber Maple leaf macaron 60 deg Zci 6.02 barrel I'm going to diy the barrel stabilisers Your opinions will be welcomed

Don’t know if it’s entirely useful information, but I run a Warhead Standard Black on a base set of gears and a 9.9v LiFe and it’s pretty bloody snappy and very efficient on battery life. For me, before everything a Warhead Motor is now the first upgrade before anything else

I've been trawling the net and it would appear that there are so many different variations when it comes to upgrades. Everyone has a different method. I've devised a selection of parts based on my research and i woukd like to find your opinions on my choices Action army trigger box+piston Laylax spring guide Maple leaf stainless cylinder M150 spring Pdi hop chamber Maple leaf macaron 60 deg Zci 6.02 barrel I'm going to diy the barrel stabilisers Your opinions will be welcomed

So I’ve decided to have a bit of a clearout, I normally have a policy of not selling gats but tbh I’ve reached the point where I’m only fielding a couple of guns so not much point keeping everything. First up is a boneyard vsr clone, cost me £20 for the bare gun deactivated and with a few hand-me down parts she’s just about functional but not any better than a stock gun, maybe a good base if someone wants a shell to start off a build. Mainly got it to try out bolt guns and it’s just not my style. Shooting ~0.8j, consistency is ok just a weak spring for our 1j limit. Reckoning maybe £40 scope included? Next is an even more boneyard cybergun (kwc?) 1911, no mags and don’t let the externals fool you she’s pretty much dead inside, especially the trigger mech. Pretty much only good for parts, or if someone wants a pre-weathered a1 style body No idea what she’s shooting, hasn’t been functional in a long time. No mags. £20 tops methinks? Now we have a lockdown boredom project m4, built off an old king arms receiver, has an e&c qd gearbox and a hodge podge of internals, good compression although reckon the hop-nozzle seal isn’t quite right as she’s about 0.6j. she’s wired for a GATE mosfet, currently has a nanohard fitted but a warfet would be a straight swap. only cutoff lever I had that fit had been modded for an internal mosfet so she’s locked to semi. The red dot has a crack in the lens but is still functional. Again, another parts/project gun. Maybe £75? Finally we have a VLTOR front rail, pretty weathered but very much a solid piece of fore-end. Comes with the flip up sight and whatever bolt-on rail sections I can find. Was always too heavy for my liking: No idea what these are worth, whether it’s legit or a clone, so any advice welcome. First up is a “battle worn” tm hicapa, perfectly functional with 2 leak free mags. Mods wise she’s just running a pdi 6.01 inner barrel and home-brew tritium night sights (they’re not very bright but readable in darkness). Nothing wrong with her shooting wise, I just prefer running a makarov. Was keeping her as a night gun but I doubt I’m going to be doing many night shoots these days: Reckoning £75 all in? Next is a 40mm launcher of unknown provenance, bit rattly and the safety has been removed to get enough movement to fire a 40-mike properly, otherwise perfectly functional if not pretty. Comes with a pair of 40-mikes that have seen some use but pretty good nick and work just fine. I just don’t get close enough to justify the extra weight of a tube…. Reckoning £100 all in (£20 for the tube and £40 apeice for the shells)? next are a bunch of Cyma 140-round ak midcaps, fielded a couple of times but i preferr the straighter 5.45 type: £20 for the lot? And finally we have this heretical beast: She started out life as an AGM mg42, but the split gearbox design made reliability atrocious as an aeg and the receiver was pretty weak (dropped it and she bent). She’s been straightened up and has had a pair of 10mm steel bars mounted inside the receiver to re-enforce it, possibly one of the rare guns where “gun hits don’t count” might have some actual validity. the bipod snapped at the pivot point and has been bolted back together as solid as can be done. She’s running a polarstar jack with a modded sr25 nozzle. To get her cycling well at 1j the inner barrel is much shorter than the original, but I’ll include the original (all 650mm of it). Fps is of course adjustable and for added hilarity she can also be switched to semi-only operation if you want the worlds worst cqb gun. The right hand half of the fcu screen doesn’t display numbers but the programming works just fine (you just can’t tell what the actual number is). Currently she’s setup for firing .2’s at ~1200rpm (to match the original rof) I’ve no idea how fast the box feeds but she should be capable of faster. The original magazine mech was pretty godawful and blew up immediately, much of her life has been spent gathering dust while I figured out how to get something decent on there. Currently it’s a classic army M249 box mag, this is entirely external (it’s a hicap that cuts off when it’s wound up) so it’s entirely feasible to do actual mag changes if you had another box and the box adaptor is removable if you want to revert to classic configuration. Comes with original gurttrommel shell, the plan was to try and 3-d print an adaptor to put the 249 box mech inside it (there is space). Also comes with a polarstar mini fcu and m4 jack nozzle (modded for low-flow but can be reverted to default, it’s just some glue plugging the ports). The sling is a pkm sling. Not the worlds most accurate gun and it’s a pain to carry, but it makes one hell of an impression. Reckoning around the £500 mark? Any tips on how to the hell you post a package that big would be appreciated, it’s a lot of gun and not light….

Realistic, short and lightweight in the same sentence can't coexist. I went with Specna Cores for my M4s because of the polymer body and QC 8mm gearboxes, also they are silly cheap (paid €120 for the one pictured, 150 for my other M4), over time I have replaced EVERYTHING inside them, including gearbox shells. You can pick up pretty much whatever you want, G&Gs used to be great bases to work with but as of today, there are plenty of alternatives that give more bang for buck (Specna, Dboys, Evolution, Saigo - these all come from the same factory, same guns different coloured plastics.. Cyma is great too). Upgrade wise, find out what you want from your gun first and then upgrade as needed. It doesn't make sense to empty the whole thing and rebuild it if you don't know what you're looking for, you will just waste money and have something that doesn't put an evil grin on your face every time you plug the battery in. My M4s, for example, are twin builds as I've put the same exact internals in both, bar the inner barrel and spring. The train of thought behind them was to have the most reliable gun possible that could still provide a decent full auto ROF of about 20 to 24 RPS, decently snappy semi auto response and be as battery efficient as possible. I've gone for Warhead 36k,Retro Arms gearbox, SHS/Rocket 13:1 gears, 8mm steel solid bushings, FPS compression parts, Perun Hybrid FCU, Maxx ME hop units, Maple Leaf 70° hop rubbers. As mentioned above the only differences are found in the spring rating (M90 for the long boi, M100 for the short) and inner barrel (6.05x247 and 6.05x185 respectively). Externally I tried to keep things light, so the choice of stock was the King Arms PDW (which is now impossible to find anywhere but from KA themselves and good luck buying one with their insane shipping rate), carbon fibre outer barrels and AliExpress handguards (back when you could find them). The carbon fibre stuff I source from Mac Airsoft, which I happen to live just 40 minutes away from.. We're both based in Italy but he does make CF barrels, stocks and handguards for many brands (Monk Customs and the likes) so you will find his stuff pretty much everywhere. He also makes very neat CNC'd aluminium receivers, but I prefer plastic. My guns aren't realistic at all, they're just functional to what I do with them. Pic of my other M4 for boasting purposes (2.2kg)

It's the only upgrade I can think of for my 416D. I don't understand why VFC did away with it in that version... Any suggestions on that other than RA-Tech ?

Hi Guys, hope this is the right place to post, looking for some advice. I bought a VSR-10 several years ago, my friend said they had sunk ~£700 into it but it needed some tinkering. As with many projects it took a backseat and has never been used...! Sadly I don't have the time, inclination or know-how to get this setup properly. It all seams to work fine but it's very heavy to pull the bolt. I'd like to put it up for sale in hopes that somebody else can get some fun out of it. Any suggestions of what it's worth? TM VSR-10 G-Spec 4 Original Mags All original internals (in bag) Original suppressor 3x9 Scope Bipod Longbow 0.4g BB's Upgrades Some tuning kit installed, don't know brand - "Dan S(?)" on trigger New inner barrel installed Additional 120SP Spring in box Additional Maple Leaf 300mm Crazy Jet inner barrel, seems to be unopened

Hi Guys, hope this is the right place to post, looking for some advice. I bought a VSR-10 several years ago, my friend said they had sunk ~£700 into it but it needed some tinkering. As with many projects it took a backseat and has never been used...! Sadly I don't have the time, inclination or know-how to get this setup properly. It all seams to work fine but it's very heavy to pull the bolt. I'd like to put it up for sale in hopes that somebody else can get some fun out of it. Any suggestions of what it's worth? TM VSR-10 G-Spec 4 Original Mags All original internals (in bag) Original suppressor 3x9 Scope Bipod Longbow 0.4g BB's Upgrades Some tuning kit installed, don't know brand - "Dan S(?)" on trigger New inner barrel installed Additional 120SP Spring in box Additional Maple Leaf 300mm Crazy Jet inner barrel, seems to be unopened

I do like the idea of building my own, but wouldn't know where to start!... Would I pick up a second hand gun and upgrade/modify? If so, what would be a good donor gun for quality, realistic externals? And then, which parts to upgrade, what brands to use, and where to source? Also, where to source the lightweight parts you eluded to? It sounds good, but to me it also sounds complicated?!.. Any help/guidance/advice gratefully received! Cheers

Today, I went to Splatoon in Essex, a site I have been to a few times before and always had an enjoyable day. About 90-100 players were present, a mixture of old (I chatted with a 72 year old chap who was playing for the first time and was there with this grandson) and young, experienced and newcomers to the hobby. The first game was a fallback; we were defending and the attackers had to clear each of four areas in turn, not being able to attack the next section until they had cleared the current one. There was a 30 second time penalty for every enemy player still alive after the attacking team called the area clear. Defenders had one life in each area, while the attackers had infinite lives, respawning on a marshal who was just behind their rearmost player. We put up a great fight in each area, with the attackers finally taking the last area, by someone reaching the grey helicopter, with about 90 seconds of the game remaining. After a short break to refill mags, the game was reversed; we stormed through the enemy, setting a new site record for completing the objective, even allowing for a 30 second time penalty when we overlooked a still living defender. Following this, we played a game across the whole site, which involved controlling the three spinners that are situated across it; control of a spinner was shown by turning it so that your side's colour was facing upward. Both sides had infinite regens on their start points. This was a really fun game, with small groups of players roving over the site, popping up in unexpected places and many small and large firefights breaking out and then fading out. I was mostly in the lower section of the field, where the yellow team claimed the spinner in the last seconds with a brilliant run from a lone player. At the end they also controlled the spinner in the container field, while we held the central one. After another short break to refill mags, we played a search and recovery game. 15 small missiles were spread across the entire site; the teams had to recover as many as they could and store them in their helicopter (there are two helicopters on site, one at each end of the container field). A player could only carry one missile at a time and the regen rules were as in the previous game. This was enjoyable mayhem, with small groups roving the site looking for missiles, trying to get them back to their helicopter, trying to ambush enemy players transporting missiles, and attempting to raid the other team's helicopter. When the game ended, we had 9 missiles and the enemy had 6. It was a good, fun day of airsoft with some great play from both sides and interesting games. Weapons used: Hurricane/G&P SR47 DBoys AKMS ASG XP18 Commander CO2 (a massive upgrade on the Cybergun M1911)

Edit: yes I know sniping isn't for everyone, I've been at it for a while Never had an airsoft sniper, I kinda of want one. Just want to check if I am going about it the right way thou. Since they tend to end up just being a mishmash of aftermarket party, I feel like buying a "premium brand" might be a bit of a waste of money? I am thinking of going the path of getting a VSR-10 clone*. I already plan to swap the barrel for a shorter one, the hop obviously, as well as having a DIY stock eventually. So yea, any feedback on this plan? * Taiwangun** recommended this one for me, any reason I should prefer a JG BAR10? https://www.taiwangun.com/sniper-rifle-spring/mb03ae-upgraded-version-520-fps-black-well **is this still the preferred shop for EU residents?

Hi guys i have a JG bar 10 which is upgraded with AA hop unit, AA trigger and piston set and a couple of other bits. i installed a rapax 2j spring in it yesterday and had to cut a couple of coils, now I find that I have to yank it really hard back for it to properly cock and hold to shoot. It’s not slam firing once it’s cocked, it just doesn’t like to lock without a lot of force at the end of the bolt pull. do I need to adjust the sear height? Is there something else I can do to stop this from happening? thanks

TM VSR10 G Spec Airsoft Pro Ver.4 trigger kit Airsoft Pro Black steel cylinder Airsoft Pro Straight cylinder head TNT Barrel and bucking (+spare) Stalker pantera hop arm and nub Barrel and cylinder spacers 4x32A0 Scope 6 mags Dampened stock

Rightly or wrongly I have purchased a Well MB04A Sniper Rifle. I have started to upgrade it with a 450FPS (ish) spring, piston and piston guide from Patrol Base and a new metal trigger box due to the added strain of the new spring. Unfortunately it is only putting out 375FPS with 0.2g weight balls. I believe I need to upgrade the Hop Up unit and bucking and perhaps the internal barrel, however finding the right items online appears to be problematic as there does not seem to be site where you can just ask for compatible parts. Does anyone have any advice on which parts to get as a sniper rifle that fails to reach 50yrds seems a bit useless.

The SSG10 is VSR-10 based, but with a unique trigger box. It's a case of "why don't all triggers work like this?" Silverback have gone their own way. I went for the TAC-41 because it has a TDC dial hop, larger magazines, quick-change spring, and I slightly prefer the ergonomics. However, the SSG10 really does make a good argument for itself if you prefer VSRs.

Guys - I need help deciding if I screwed up. I’ve brought a gate eon gearbox to stick in the shell of an old ICS CXP MMR. Now I didn’t realise but they run a split gear box thing. Does that mean if I’m replacing the whole gearbox etc the one I’ve gotten(v2) won’t then fit. I’m not keeping any old parts from the gear box. I’m also fitting a Titan. It’s not a drama if not as I can fit on another weapon but I’m hoping I can still use it on this

Latest acquisition for Christmas. Saw it and found the concept interesting, but won't be able to test it until the new year. Don't know if I should have gone for the slightly longer version, as the short one seems to be lower powered than advertised; around 1.6J Vs the stated 1.9J, but I'll try it and see! *Edit: just tried it again with heavier ammo and an Action army VSR mag and it's now up to around 1.9 to 2J, so more than adequate. I don't know if it's just joule creep, the AA mag seating in better, or the thing's just warming up now but it seems to have improved. Can't wait to try it out, the thing is just so ridiculously light though!

Sweden. Organized events tends to be a bunch of dudes in multicam with Systemas claiming they can hear the bbs bouncing of their kits but in reality they never notice when hit - same as everywhere I suppose 🤷🏻‍♀️ When I was active we used to just fill a couple of cars on the weekends and head for the forest or some abandoned site and do our thing. I don't like bureaucracy ^^ This answered the question I do appreciate this but I am very aware of it also- see my forum stats and this reply Either way it is more about adding VSR platform to my loadout than anything else ^^ and I do appreciate your help!

Me three. I've popped stock fuses (20A? 25A?) with stalled motors, and now upgrade by deleting them and applying electromechanical sympathy. Batteries - particularly NiMh - can look good by producing voltage without being able to supply enough current, so I'd agree with trying another one, i.e. a 7.4V lipo rather than spending more money on last-last-generation technology. The other thing you can try, short of a gearbox stripdown, is shoving a long ball-end Allen key or similar up the nozzle, feel where the piston is, and see if you can get the it moving a bit. I've used that to push a stalled / locked up piston back past the release point. Be aware that it'll then want to come forwards rather assertively.

So after lets just call it at least a decade away I finally feel that I'm back, so I thought it'd be interesting to share my journey as attempt to get my head around the changes in tech & re-develop my loadout to match my play style which hasn't changed in the meantime. First off, I'd forgotten just how much I'd missed this both mentally and physically. I've been laid up in and out of hospital the last few years - to the extent that I've gone from superfit to completely broken. I finally found something which I could actually do without landing me back in A&E last October & thanks to a push from my wife - I tried out a game at my local airsoft site. I sold up pretty much everything (it was around the time of the in-fighting over setting up UKARA - alongside some horrible personal issues that was the final straw). So I had my old ICS552, my custom WA S&W 1911, my 8mm Redhawk & a battered CYMA M3 rip off. Despite the WA utterly failing in the cold weather, the SIG shedding parts & developing the fire selection switch developing the attitude of a teenager I had a whale of a time. Finally picked up my PASS & the intervening time let me try out the modern "toys" and get my head around what I enjoyed. I've never been a kit nerd when it comes to fiddling/upgrading or to achieving a particular loadout "style". Instead I've always ended up picking out what for me is the "best of breed" in terms of what does what I need it to, hence you could politely describe my look as that of a scruffy mercenary - as opposed to that of someone as likely to sell you a big issue as shoot you. I did get an ego boost from being described as a "Ukrainian nutter" though So in terms of clothing/webbing I just go with what is comfy. At the moment its a pair of yard boots (closest thing to trainers in terms of comfort), an old pair of combats, norge, appropriate layers & a russian OMON style vest. Its light, room for 3 spare M4 style mags, shotgun shells, 2 blank firing grenades & some high energy shack items. I then go with a belt running two bianchi holsters & spare revolver shells/pistol mags. Its nice to be able to dump the belt at the safe zone or go down to one sidearm without having to reconfigure everything. So my general "normal" loadout now is as follows ... SA-15 Edge - Batteries have moved on! Being able to fit a single battery in the stock which is enough capacity for a full day's play is a revelation. Battery capacity was always a factor in the past - so its great to be able to pick something I love the feel of without worrying about having to change/carry a spare. Aside from the tight inner barrel I didn't think there was much point in going for anything gucci. My AEG has always been a tool first. Hops have come on - I remember the old TM hop with its tendancy to unwind randomly (I ran both an M4 & SR16 for a while) but this is easy to set how I want it - and it stays that way. I also hated M4 mags - partially a look & feel, partially having to spend so much time keeping them working & feeding. Very much a fan of the new S-Mag style, plus no feed issues with either hi or mid caps. 3 spare mags in the OMON vest. Shotgun - a reliable backup and sometimes main for CQB/thicker woodland. I love tri-barrel shotguns. I sold my modded M3 when I quit - so I picked up a BO Fabarms one to replace the battered CMYA one. Its similar size & weight but definitely has more poke & consistency just like my old TM but at way less than half the price. Will run as a spare as looking to get hold of a Secutor one as its even smaller & looks sexier (sorry). I figure it'll be even easier to carry slung on my back but for the moment, for the money I'm liking this a lot. Spare shells in the sling which goes over my vest so she sits on my back. If I'm ditching the AEG then even more shells in the vest on the shell loops - saves having to take time out reloading in the safe zone TTI JW 4 - GBB's are so much improved. And I say that as someone who loved them. This has now replaced my beloved WA 1911 and I can't believe I've gone back to a double stack 2011. I tried lots but when I picked her up something clicked. The hop/takedown are quick, mags suffer less cooldown and in terms of range once I got the hop set - well she's perfect for pulling out and "going light" with a BFG or two. Very much feels like one of the old WA Inifinities - after I'd spent a fortune on metal gubbins, internals etc. but better - out of the box FFS! Pair of spare mags in an old mil-tec twin mag pouch on the belt (will be replacing soon as its knackered), gun sits in a Bianchi M84 on the belt. Lovely - you can keep your new fangled plastic holster things Marushin 8MM Redhawk - yes she's an antique but with a thorough clean and lube she's fine. Fill valve needs a strip and bit of plumber's tape every few months but in winter - on red - she's up to her old tricks. There is something so pure about considered shots with a 6 shot shell loader ... it honestly feels amazing. Pair of .44 magnum speedloaders on belt, she sits in a Bianchi Cyclone holster. When she gives up the ghost .... who knows. Might have to look at a den wesson if only to be able to keep my love of using nothing but a revolver & speedloaders in game occasionally Oh, and if anyone knows a source of 8mm BB's that's be great, although I'm down to my last 700 they should last a few years as I tend to only get through a dozen every skirmish. So that's where I'm at. It kinda feels comfy - like a modern upgrade of the kit "style" I know and love. When the weather warms up a bit I'll start venturing further afield - heard great things about the "x" site in Mold. Much prefer sneaky, muddy bog snorkelling/woodland play rather than speedball - although in building CQB does lead to me making disturbing sounds as I play. Airsoft is definitely more popular. the kit better, the choice in the UK so much wider (anyone else remember the says of WGC shop/Den trinity importing *everything*). People messing around with Western Arms kit - endlessly upgrading/fixing seems to have been replaced by a different bunch of people endlessly upgrading/fixing HPA guns - but I'm really enjoying getting back into this

Hi, I'm currently looking for an AEG that can last for a long time, while being fool-proof, sturdy and upgrade-friendly for when the time comes. Mostly for CQB games and mid-range engagements (35-45m max.). I don't have any platform preference, I've used M4s, MP5s and AKs, and felt comfortable with all of them. And although I have a clear metal preference, I won't refuse a sturdy and well-built reinforced polymer body. These are some of the replicas that I've been looking at, I'm totally open to recommendations (250€ approximate budget for the weapon, not counting upgrades or mosfet). https://www.taiwangun.com/es/fusil-de-asalto-aeg/replica-cm-045c-cyma https://www.taiwangun.com/es/fusil-de-asalto-aeg/replica-cm-077c-cyma https://www.taiwangun.com/es/subfusil-aeg/la-cm-041l-upgraded-version-cyma?q=cm.041l&campaign-id=14 https://www.taiwangun.com/es/fusil-de-asalto-aeg/replica-m906c-fire-control-system-edition-de?q=m906c&campaign-id=14 https://www.taiwangun.com/es/fusil-de-asalto-aeg/replica-m907c-fire-control-system-edition-de?q=m907c&campaign-id=14 If you know about some models that would fit better, like some Specna (I know about the roulette that their gearbox is), Rossi or G&G (ARP9, PCC9), don't hesitate! Here to learn! Thanks for your time!