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Are you sure it's the valve? I found the base seal of the mag really doesnt like handling anything stronger than nuprol 2.0

Apart from changing anything, the first and most obvious thing is to properly lube and clean the gun. A clean cylinder glides smoother and doesn't break like a gritty disgusting cylinder. Lube with PTFE as an ingredient is the current recommendation for airsoft moving parts use. To be honest, Just a spit ball - but I do own an SSG10, and compared to my SRS, the action is incredibly easy. In terms of range and (I think) power, it is incredibly similar. Im not saying buy an SSG10, but since the platforms are so incredibly similar (If not the same) then I'd look into what parts Novritsch uses to get his rifle's pull so light. Other than that, I can just +1 what Impulse is saying.

D'oh, yes, I missed that. One hail-Mary to try is drilling a very slight detent into the top of the hop chamber, directly above the feed tube. A few gentle-pressure turns with a 6mm drill bit put up the feed tube, just enough to create a little inverted dimple that BBs can seat into. This fixed, or seemed to fix, a similar issue on my MP5K, although as with anything airsoft it might just have been sorted by another round of disassembly-reassembly. (Detouring...) No worries, and you're right to ask because it's not obvious. What your gun is telling you is that the motor can draw enough current to over-spin, and will do so if the battery can supply it. By using a lower-C battery to fix that, you're now in a situation where the motor is trying to draw more current than the battery can provide. It's probably marginal, and many players are likely in the same situation without even realising it. However, you might find is that the battery heats up with use. It's not likely to become seriously toasty, but it'll be shortening its life to some extent. I mean, it's really not a huge deal in the grand scheme of airsoft lifetimes or costs, but I'd keep an eye on it for any signs of puffing up or alarming overheating. The tl;dr version is that ideally you want a battery that can comfortably supply more current than the motor can draw, and that you fix the double-shots another way, e.g. checking for a worn cut off lever, using an active-brake mosfet (although this then increases strain on the motor), or even by a mechanical bodge like limiting the trigger travel so that the trolley can disengage faster (I've used a blob of hot-melt glue between the trigger contacts to achieve this).

@ak2m4 Measured at 480mm. This doesn't mean the person who owned it before me changed anything but why would they go for a shorter brass inner barrel?

Unfortunately I need to get the front handguards off as it's front wired 😅, appreciate the input anway though Yeah this seems to be the case, just learnt how to take the front sight + gas block etc off alongside the delta ring so I'll be borrowing a armourer's wrench soon to get it tight as I just didn't have anything to grasp it properly Skem 😜, easier to just say it's close rather than try and explain lol

Funnily enough, it's a full/non-ported cylinder. I 100% sure of this as I kept all the parts/spares from this build in it's own box so I didn't get them crossed with anything else.

Welcome to the forum Nobody has a ukara licence, they don't exist. Now I've got that out of the way on to your question. By cover the blue do you mean temporarily while playing or permanently? The former is absolutely fine and can easily be done with a roll of sniper tape. If you mean permanently then IIRC it's technically illegal but if you can show you're using it for playing airsoft (at a proper site, not dicking about in a mate's garden) and don't do anything stupid with it you'll be fine

Lol, your googlefu is stronger than mine. General rule of thumb for s/h stuff in airsoft is considered to be 60% to 70%ish of the cheapest new price at the time of posting. But depending on supply, demand, or even who's using the kit in active service at the time can cause the accepted percentage to fluctuate. Problem you have is irrespective of rrp, not many airsofters splurge £200+ on load bearing equipment of any sort, not with so many good quality copies around for a fraction of real steel prices, with the exception of the hard-core stitch counters, but they're all bonkers lol🥴. Add to that, you've stated yours is a "desert camo", but which one & who uses it ?, that kinda info may give you a better idea of a target market, whether it's airsofters, reenactors, or even the home market of whatever country or units use that camo ?. Good luck, it may not be easy to shift but I sold an Israeli vest to someone in the Lebanon once, at a considerable profit, so anything is possible 😀

The shooting parts of airsoft M4s are mostly compatible and interchangeable, being based on reverse engineering Tokyo Marui guns. All[*] M4s use the "V2" gearbox, which is as close to a standard as anything in airsoft, and the lower receiver, pistol grip, motor and hop units and barrels are also largely interchangeable. That's why it doesn't particularly matter what you use as a base for development. If the printed parts fit on any M4 lower, then they should fit on every[*] M4 lower. I suggested CYMA as they're cheap, tough, globally available, and a de facto standard. It's easy to get lost in airsoft makes and models, and get decision paralysis. However, as adjustable power is a (sensible) goal, as an end user I'd be more likely to choose something with a quick change spring system as a base. Since half the base gun is going to be discarded anyway, a Specna Arms SA-F03 FLEX (for example) would do fine. It's really down to local prices and availability where you are - I mention Specna Arms as those are cheap and readily available in the UK, but it really won't matter what you get as long as it's TM / CYMA compatible. This really is relevant to my interests, by the way, I play in Astra Militarum gear and have long been on the lookout for exactly what you're proposing to replace my current half-arsed solutions. [*] There are exceptions at the higher end, like Systema, but the bulk of M4s are TM / CYMA compatible.

Father's day blast at the Spec Ops CQB site yesterday (or The FirePlace to give it is proper name I think). My son got me an airsoft combat knife for father's day as he knows I'm partial to a sneaky knife kill, so now I no longer have to tap people on the shoulder, instead I can fumble getting a knife out of a holster, drop it and get shot at point blank instead. Also fielding my Double Eagle with it's new Guarder SP100 spring and my new ICS XAE pistol. The Eagle had been down on power for a while, hitting around 0.8 joules depending on ammo weight. With the new spring it was right back up to the joule limit on .25s. Got through chrono fine, but might invest in one of my own as I want to see if I get any joule creep with my usual .28s. New ICS pistol was pretty solid throughout the day, there is a bit of inconsistency with the hop, but that may settle down as it beds in. The hop wheel is stiff as a day old corpse though, so making fine adjustments is difficult. I may strip the hop unit down at some point, but to be honest at typical pistol engagement distances it's good enough. Easily clears a mag and a bit with a full gas charge and doesn't struggle too much with cool-down, though we were indoors in a roasting hot barn. Pretty happy with it for £65. We were in the afternoon slot today. When we arrived there were a group who were there for the full-day plus some other afternoon arrivals. First half of the session was really fast paced, there were a decent number of people (15 to 20 odd) with a mix of experienced players and rentals, the rental players were getting well and truly stuck in alongside the more experienced players so it was a real hail-storm of BBs. Hit taking was mostly pretty good, I had to tap a couple of people more than once but overall everyone played along. Had some solid trades during the day at near point blank range so have some good welts to record my visit. As the day wore on some of those who had been there since the morning started to thin out. Before departing a couple of guys let me waste a ton of their ammo trying out their TM AKM and HPA-tapped Saiga 12 SBS (didn't get their names, but if you are on these boards then cheers!). My first try of anything from the TM stables and despite reading up on their general high quality, it instantly becomes apparent how slick they are once you use one. Close of the day saw only 7 of us left, which to be frank I thought would be crap, but on the contrary it was the most fun of the day. We ran a mix of 1v1 and 1v+1 (when someone dies they can bring back an extra person from respawn until the entire team is wiped out) games and then a couple of rounds of defend and hold, where the defending team of 4 had to secure a couple of buildings and hold off the assault team of 3. Most airsoft games in big groups just turn into a shit storm of people running around like headless chickens under a near constant deluge of BBs, but with smaller teams communication and tactics suddenly came into play and I loved it. Honestly if you get the chance to play a CQB site with a small group it's utterly brilliant.

I'm also going to be stocking spares etc, so bearings, esc etc al. All going to be pretty cheap should anything be damaged. The major ass is the time it takes to desolder the controller to access all the parts

Classic Army CA90 / P90 / CA049P and probably many other names it seems. At first the battery did not fit and having received a much smaller battery that at least does fit we find it does not shoot properly. Not having one before we are being rather cautious not to break anything. Instructions were unclear how many turns to wind the magazine so we gave it one turn and it fired a few BB's. 3 turns and it fired a few more but still not many. Gave it 5 turns and when fitting to the gun we heard what we now know, was the magazine unwinding itself rapidly. From some googling it seems although it's a 300 capacity mag it's likely to shoot 30/50 in one go and may need winding again? Or have I got that wrong? Anyway, I tried winding slightly less and slightly more and it still unwinds when fitting to the gun, tried fitting it slowly and quickly with the same results. Checking the magazine with a strong light and some magnifying glasses I can see cracks all over the magazine. Seems like they picked the worst plastic possible for it. Any tips gratefully received. Thanks.

To all those people who said I'd never accomplish anything because I procrastinate too much... ...just you wait and see.

As above. Take photos too so if there's anything you're unsure about. Yes, how it connects to the upper receiver. Both of those are too short for the M4A1 look, they MIGHT fit but you'd need to swap out other parts too