Speedbird_666

So I've made a temporary repair to the Spring Guide (added a wrap of electric tape to metal inner part) so I can check that the rest of the GB is working OK. I've got a ZCI one on the way. Good news is that it sounds and turns over so much better than before. Bad news is that it blew a load of metal filings out of the gap around the QD spring guide. The guide is pounding the hell out of the back of the gearbox on firing, wearing it away. So I can say with some certainty, that the stock spring is far too short, so short that it is barely compressed at all in the piston-forward position. This means that there is not enough pressure on the spring guide to keep it firmly seated when firing - you can watch it jump around when doing so. A change to a 'normal' M100 spring, which actually sticks out of the end of the gearbox and needs some force to insert (uh...phrasing) seems to have fixed the problem, spring guide is now static and no more twanging! I wouldn't be surprise if the short spring caused the spring guide failure in the first place. Thanks all.

Yeh, but it's got to be finished in silver, a folding stock, and come with a cigar in the box.

Nope. I think buffer tubed AKs look cool. That's why I own one. Even FSB run with buffer-tubed AKs and Kalashnikov Concern/Izhmash are equipping them out of the factory on their AK-12/15s. Then there's the US companies such as Meridian Defense and Rifle Dynamics spitting out boutique AKs. 'Old school is cool' n'all that, but buffer tubes on AKs do make a lot of sense.

When you say fire, are we talking about catastrophic destruction of the Gearbox or a puff of magic smoke from the Mosfet? If it's the former, then OK. But if it's the latter, just replace the trigger board. The board and full wiring setup is pretty reasonably priced: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/gp-i5-gearbox-trigger-board

Thanks, I had spotted the ZCI QD Guide after @Skara’s post, I’ll order one in the morning and give it a go.

Unfortunately, it's an E&L Gen2 with a QD Gearbox. It means that I have to buy another E&L QD Spring Guide, or a new GB shell altogether. Problem is - I can't find a UK stockist for the spring guide.

Ok, might of worked it out. When the spring guide stopped...guiding...the base was allowed to move about when the gun was firing. This caused a bit of damage to the casing, sending metal shards everywhere, including the gears and piston o-ring. Luckily no damage was done to any other components. The gearbox was absolutely caked in what can only be described as earwax for grease. The gears would barely move. So, gave it a good clean and re-grease - they now spin freely in the GB case, with a minor tweak to the shimming. Just re-assembling now (fuck you V3 triggers).

The end of the metal inner piece that holds the bearing is ‘barbed’ at the end so to speak, with the plastic guide having an internal lip to hold it on after being press-fit together. Problem is, that internal lip is no more. I’m going to try and epoxy it back on, leaving a small gap to allow the bearing to rotate, but I’m not holding much hope that it’ll hold.

Well, this doesn't bode well. The plastic centre bit was floating around inside the spring coils. The inside is mulched. Wonderful.

Did you buy the gun new, or off the forums by any chance?

I might go down the WarFET route, I have a couple of Nano ASRs still in their boxes that I could use as a placeholder (wiring wise) until I can put down the cash for a WarFET and programming card. I checked with the previous owner - it was only a wall-hanger and he was flogging off his (mostly E&L) AK collection, there's no evidence of disassembly at all, other than a pistol grip swap. It's slightly longer than krink length, I did wonder if it's over-volumed, but after watching a couple of breakdowns, including the exact model I have, I'm not so sure: Basically, it just doesn't feel as smooth or effortless to turn over compared to my previous CYMA. I was expecting...better. Perhaps it's just my example. I'll strip it and check it over internally. I do like the fact that I don't have to remove the outer barrel/front-end to get the GB out.

Thanks. I've got a bunch of longer M100 springs, I'll swap the stock one out and give it a go. I'm going to check the shimming/motor height at the same time.

I'll try and keep this short: - Purchased an unused E&L Gen 2 AK from these forums. - No complaints about the seller, excellent service - and the gun was as-new on arrival. Needed a couple things tightening up, but I believe this common with E&L. - Arrived last week, finally got a Deans connector soldered-up today (been busy). - Gearbox is loud. I know LCTs can be, was not expecting it from E&L. I can't place the loudness, but I don't think it's the shimming as such. I'm not talking muzzle-end noise, but the operation of the GB itself. - The spring makes an intermittent loud and pronounced 'twanging' noise on cycle completion. - The gun is a little slow in full auto (11-12 RPS) with a fresh 7.4v. - Turns over OK in Semi, although it feels a tiny bit laboured. - Tried an 11.1v LiPo at storage capacity (~11v) - constant over-spin double-shots. So my questions to E&L owners: is the above 'normal' OOTB performance for E&L guns? If the answer is yes, then I can say that it's a bit disappointing, as the CYMA CM.045 that I sold (to fund this) felt significantly better to shoot - snappy, decent ROF (15RPS with 7.4 LiPo, stock GB internals and SHS HT Motor) and was considerably quieter. I'll probably ditch the stock (22TPA?) motor for an SHS HT and crack the GB open over the weekend to check the shimming. But so far......meh.

I take it this is one and the same?

Whilst I don't know where @Alimcd purchased his, they are readily available on AliExpress via the Holy Warrior official store: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/910570041?spm=a2g0o.detail.100005.1.2a026a1aJZhOAV

I hate to say it, but I understand why H&K developed HKey. MLOK is proprietary to Magpul, and H&K would never license a product from another country, especially when H&K supply to governments that may end up on the US' shit-list. Keymod standard (which is open source) uses imperial measurements, which does not compute with our European friends. HKey is a metric equivalent to Keymod, but with some extra tweaks preventing cross-compatibility so H&K can charge $60-70usd for a teeny tiny rail section.

Doesn't sound like there's much CYMA left in the 621 😜

Doesn't help that there's Real Steel spec and Airsoft Spec KeyMod. Whoever thought that it was a good idea not to back-bevel the keys to essentially create a separate standard needs to be shot.

Don't judge me... Got it NIB for well under retail for my 13 year old middle son to use. I've been fairly critical of G&G and their pricing/feature set, but I gotta say, I can't fault the external quality of this blaster for the money I paid. Right...need to order a Perun ETU++

Prior to Brexit, when ordering from TG was less fraught with issues, £118 for a CYMA CM.045 was an absolute steal. You can't even get a Combat Machine from a UK vendor for that money.

Having just sold a CYMA AK (CM.045) to switch to an E&L - CYMA are good for the money, but are some way off being as good as the higher-end manufacturer's offerings. The biggest issue with CYMA metal AKs (IMO) is the fact they are still using pot metal for front sights, receiver sight block/trunnion, and crucially - the rear receiver hinge points for the folding stock. I don't have any criticism of the internals though. But now I've gone E&L, I don't think I would go back to CYMA AKs. Yeh, the CM.04x and .07x series have steel receivers.

Not quite. I have an ICS Peleador - one of the newer 'sportline' models. To bring it roughly up to 'proline' standard internally, I replaced the Spring Guide (plastic), Piston Head (un-ported), Nozzle (plastic with no O-ring) - all with ICS' own 'upgrade' parts found on their higher-end guns. The piston isn't the newer orange POM version and the Hop Unit is plastic rather than metal - I'll be replacing these eventually. I'm pretty sure the motor is slightly downgraded compared to my CXP-15 too. I've switched to an SHS Hi-Torque which really makes the gun come alive. But I really quite like ICS M4s, despite their oddities. And to be fair the Peleador shot just fine without updating the parts.

I don't think it intended for the reservoir itself. You pour the paint from the tin into another container (or spray pot, depending on what type of brush/gun is being used), through the strainer, to remove any lumps from the paint. You either pour the paint from said container into the Airbrush, or screw the spray pot onto the gun.

No way this is a metal bodied gun. You can tell the ICS plastic bodies by the rear receiver area, there's extra reinforcement around the take down pin.

Well that sounds like a complete Clusterfuck on UPS's part. I hope you get your order at some point. It could be worse - around 20 years ago (around the dawn of internet shopping) my team mate and I ordered ~$500usd of Paintball gear from the states. Never showed. No tracking number. Couldn't get a refund (no buyers protection back in those days). Seller (a major manufacturer that still exists) couldn't give a shit. We had to write off the money and forget about it. 2 years (yes, years!) later, a big box shows up at my mates house with 'Christchurch England NOT Christchurch New Zealand!' scrawled across it. Turns out it had been stuck in New Zealand customs for years because some dumb fuck in the US Paintball company warehouse forgot to write the country on the box. We've come a long way in terms of shopping since then.