Speedbird_666

Surely it's worth a punt for less than £20 posted?

The only assumption I'm going to make is that you are not going to get along with other members of this forum with that kind of attitude. This isn't Discord or Facebook. Your first post is of a 'what am bestest m4?' variety - something that we have seen 1000x over on these forums. Your nebulous question immediately rings alarm bells and whilst the delivery of the UKARA advice above was slightly clumsy, it is somewhat understandable given that most who ask these things still live at home with mummy and daddy, and are looking to write their airsoft xmas list to Santa. Try introducing yourself on the forums - there is an entire section dedicated to it here.

I quite liked the look of it until I saw that changing the battery was a complete ballache.

From @ak2m4

Yes - I think 7.4v with a change of gear ratios is probably a good way to go.

Ok - I get it now. Slapped into one of my guns (ICS M4, Stock 18:1 gears, Perun Hybrid with AB disabled). No modifications needed - straight drop-in. Impressive. Most Impressive. Been spamming the trigger fairly hard on an 11.1v for giggles and the motor is cold, as is the wiring and the battery. Performance on 7.4 and 11.1 is fairly similar in Semi. Can't comment on long term reliability (obvs), but as a drop-in upgrade for a bone stock gun, it certainly seems to give a trigger responsiveness and ROF performance that will keep 95% of players very happy.

Alright - let's see what all the fuss is about...

My more pressing question - is TM making a Howa Type 20? That would be pretty amazeballs if they were. Not been following Airsoft developments quite so closely lately, so the answer might be already be common knowledge.

Looks like it also takes percussion caps? Kinda makes it part Airsoft, part 'Model' gun it that's the case?

You'll likely have better luck finding LCT parts, and MacGyvering them onto the Cyma (technically it should work as both designs are VFC based - but this is airsoft). They are in stock at Fire-support. Problem is - the wooden parts will cost nearly as much as the gun itself - would it be worth it? Probably not. You might find CM048 parts on the Asian t'interwebs. But by the time you've sourced the parts, imported them, hoped you've avoided any additional custom fees, and realise that they are bit shit in terms of quality - would it be worth it? Probably Not.

I am no NGRS expert - but there is a switch on the BTC Spectre board for what appears to be the bolt stop mechanism. I would also refer to this video with regards to how the mechanism works in the GB with the BTC Mosfet:

As an owner of 5 ICS M4s - I would say that this one is the amongst the least desirable of their lineup due to being somewhat ugly, front-wired with the gopping PEQ box for the battery. I would also wager that this has the older internals judging by the receiver markings and the white piston (anything made in the last 8-10 years has a black piston), with an old spec upper GB casing that doesn't like new spec CS4 receivers (ask me how I found that one out). You have to bear in mind that you can now buy an ETU-equipped gun, with a better internals and paths for upgrades, for not a lot of money. So on that basis - if I saw this for sale, I wouldn't pay more than £85 for it.

Nice PA Addiction in the background. I would just buy the RAHG rail sections from Daves Custom Airsoft - I'm not sure it's worth the hassle of replacing the whole rail.

How stiff if that material? I've been slowly working on a benchrest stock design for my HFT500 (quoted £750 to get a custom one done) and was looking at using PPS-CF - but at £115 a roll it ain't cheap. I need to minimise flex otherwise there could be POI-shift issues.