Sitting Duck

Gay Femme Fatale G&G about £65 would have preferred the short Raider FF looks better and has a sexier lady on it too instead I got the long Carbine - but wtf I have some gay guns - just not in pink Ooh and a Krytac mk1, another HC05, a CM18 & some others but I guess the FF was one I thought wtf why not

LOL - the box I'm having grief with IS A JG Originally an early one with white plastic 7mm bushings that I replaced with some 7mm bushings/bearings (50/50 mix) But other than this fuckpig one, I really like JG v3's These seem to be finished better than cheapo Cyma's (an unpainted/unfinished 028a box, was fucking razor sharp edges & once closed the motor cage was loose across the width of base like the box closed up together way too tightly, even cage tightened there was play) Some JG's are just black on outside, some are painted on inside too They accept the v3 cylinder head with "lug" where as Cyma's don't... JG G36 & SIG use a weird COL with reduced arm cam ??? (silver) where as their AK's use a regular V3 COL like black SHS one in pic... Other than a couple of qwirks, they are a nicely finished cheap v3 imho Their stock cylinder head is a double o-ring type, that seals very well as std (fucking way better than shitty loose useless Cyma stock cylinder head) I've notice some spouts do vary in tightness - nozzle wise some glide nicely with a new nozzle, but another JG head, the spout is larger/tight fit (mind you some of these boxes & bits are over 6 years old so variation in manufacturing is expected) Piston head is a fatter/chunkier o-ring, on a flat 5 hole vent, which works well (slightly widen if you wish, but really works as is, and with cylinder head gives good compression Sometimes 7mm solid bushings, sometimes bearings - or older ones with white plastic bushings But they are a good box, the way they are finished & what is inside, req very little changed tbh I personally would give JG boxes the slight edge over say basic Cyma v3's due to finish & slightly better parts inside as standard, a slight tweak & service ends up costing very little but just my opinion for what it is worth

Shims UNDER the bevel are not too fussy either it is the one place you don't have to shim to perfection as the pinion once installed is never going to allow the bevel to move Not saying don't bother shimming under bevel... Just that you won't need to shim it to fine tolerance like other instances to hold in position Take up some of slack under bevel - but don't fret over say fine 0.1mm tolerance say like other instances Try not to use larger diameter shims under bevel, if you pack a considerable bit with larger diameter shims it can impede/rub slightly with teeth on spur meshing to bevel I've found So I tend to/try to use smaller diameter shims under bevel & on top of sector (smaller diameter shims on top of sector is to reduce possible catching/snagging of tappet fin on sector shim) Rough ball-park figure... Bevel gear: 0.1mm to 0.2mm, maybe 0.25mm on TOP OF BEVEL (take up some of slack underneath) Spur gear: 0.1mm to 0.2mm UNDERNEATH SPUR (whatever is required on top) Sector gear - roughly 50/50 centered, check for rubbing against COL if too low & sector cam rubbing on box if shimmed too high (or thick chunky delay clip installed) (often a ball-park is whatever the spur has underneath - then add 0.1mm or 0.2mm under spur, then 0.3mm (ish) under sector, then whatever req on top) When spinning gears, also lay box on its side to listen for more friction/rubbing from gears or against box (you'd be surprised how sweet it sounds upright, but a tin of wasps on its side, so investigate if you got OCD) Once you got the gears "roughly spaced" or as you got the sector/spur "stacked up" nicely Turn box over so the selector plate side is facing upwards.... lift sector gear up, checking for play - BUT look closely at spur axle... If when checking the sector play, the spur's axle lifts too... then they are stacked a little too close together and/or too much slack on those gears (if left unchecked - it can produce those "swirl marks" on spur gear) Another check & easier to see on a v3, once finished - have a look at how much of bevel's teeth actually mesh with spur's teeth through motor entry point... You want to aim for as much of the bevel/spur's teeth meshing as possible BUT you will never get it meshing as closely as say the sector-spur - you can get these close without touching but often the bevel-spur will not mesh anything quite as close... If there is very little meshing at bevel-spur, then try to shim the spur and sector higher by swapping some shims from top to underneath - keeping the gears together without becoming too tight (as said say shim the spur (0.3 or something now and also the sector increase underneath & less on top) Reason for this checking the bevel's teeth mesh with spur more... Moment you get any strain/lockup, the light meshing contact between the bevel-spur will result in those 10 teeth flying off as little may have made contact with spur You can view this as a weak point - at bevel to spur shim/meshing if you wish but it stands to reason, if little of the bevel's 10 teeth is making solid contact with spur's teeth only the tips of 10 teeth mesh with spur - then under load, the bevel's 10 teeth will tear themselves out at slightest sign of stress BUT - as said, you just won't get enormous near full contact across the width of the teeth like spur/sector Just check for hardly any contact width & adjust/lift up if possible, the spacing of spur/sector Some bevel's have chunkier and wider 10 teeth cut to spur, meaning better contact than others It is the instances where hardly any of the bevel's 10 teeth contact the spur (here is where a bevel may encounter "tooth decay" at some point under stress) Everybody's shimming technique varies & every box is different (heck some gear sets are smooth as silk in one box & rough in another box) But I check for sector lifting spur (selector plate side up) how much actual contact bevel to spur, if poor, look to lifting/shifting spur/sector shimming if required (as said it will never be extremely close, but look to ensure decent contact without throwing out stuff much) Spinning the gears upright AND on on both sides to listen for rubbing/contact of gears/gearbox case etc... TL-DR check for gears being too close together (sector/spur example) check for decent contact between bevel/spur, or as much as feasible to reduce tooth decay spin gears upright and on sides (both sides) for any excess rub/friction if you have OCD like moi or fuck it - just slap them in like the 5yr did at the factory sweat shop (and just say Homer Simpson style - it was like that when I got here/bought it) PS for the record - I know absolutely FUCK ALL tbh... my latest was a v3, shimming was the bollox - really smooth dropped motor, that was I thought meshing nicely at height/angle - even angle of cut of gears 90 degrees FUCKING PILE OF SHIT - 10.2amps, low draw but sounded absolutely fucking awful wobbled motor cage - still sounded SHIT - just doesn't make sense at all Had to shelve it on Monday & hope to look into it this weekend, likely change motor or investigate just WTF is up with it, never expected it to sound so crap after all the attention to detail & sweet it all seemed to go yet proof of pudding was a tin of angry wasps trapped inside a tin of rusty ol' nuts & bolts So what the fuck do I know - ignore my advice, I know completely fuck all

Following on to original topic... Binary triggers are one thing... 3rd burst bells n whistles etc... are alright But it is all down to the approach It isn't called a wanker gun due to the performance it is coz it is often used by WANKERS being real WANKERS GREAT have a fast ultra snappy gun but control it, use it wisely that hose other players Don't rely on spraying anything that moves to compensate for your lack of skill Try not to be a dick, arguing it is on semi But then spam the fuck out of a binary trigger Like some highly aroused lesbian bring herself off... BUT IT IS ON SEMI - frigg frigg frigg frigg frigg Stop being a wanker, or in friggin binary triggers Stop being a dyke having a wank... Remember wankers & dykes...

That TSG he has been kicking the idea around for yonks You got 30 teeth to play with... "You mean 32 as in 16 teeth plus 16 again..." NO the 16 teeth are actually like a clock face Eg 7 teeth appear from 12 to 1 to 6 But if you split the face you get half 12 & half 6 So you get 1/2, then 5 then 1/2 again = 6 Same as sector - half way is actually 1/2 then 14 them 1/2 again = 15 But they round it up on the teeth and cast 16 actual teeth (and the space AREA is 14 teeth, though it is a actually 15 as 16 teeth cast, is using 15 in reality teeth tip to tip) ANYWAY - 30 so-called teeth to play with or cast... So the spacing on sector allows for 30 teeth to be cast on a reg DSG you have 8 teeth and 7 space on a special DSG you can have 9 and 6 space (so timings are more critical for tappet) On the TSG you are left with 5 teeth & 5 space Which is more time pro rata than other sectors to piston teeth So it is feasible to do but still only leaves a timing of 5 teeth/space to feed/chamber a BB - which is very tiny Even the 9 tooth DSG has a space of 6 and can be tricky And the TSG would have around 17% less time to feed (no matter what speed the rof is) So the issue has always been the tappet cycling The lockdown has obviously given him some time So I presume he 3d printed a few Then cast it to make a few prototypes in metal to play with (likely without 3 COL cams yet, just get it working full auto Like a crappy G&G DSG in HC05 I expect) Get those cams sorted at a later date As said the space area for cycling the tappet/feeding is going to be the biggest issue which I think may prove beyond the reasonable limit to work OK Which in that case, the 5 teeth may end up get SS a tooth So that it is 4 teeth and 6 teeth spacing - which might work better SS the TSG to 4 teeth/6 space places it in the timings of a 9t DSG With 9 teeth and 6 space to chamber With just 4 teeth to provide power it is going to limit the options as the power will likely be about 30-33% of springs power And cylinder volume would be fuck all maybe a 110-140mm barrel tops So power expect 200-250fps tops with spacers and a bitch to install a m200 with spacers etc... So it has a limited viability in real terms the general concenus was BUT taking nothing away from Makeii, I admire him even more now For actually giving it a go and taking his original idea further Congrats to him, I'm sure it will work - but it will be limited as the boundaries or limits of an AEG are being stretched to fuck But hey with all this free time, why not give it a go But firmly believe a QSG is not going appear as the TSG is really pushing the limits to fuck on present boxes The timings & final power limits means it will be very tricky to perfect and limit its use in but the smallest barrels at quite low final FPS (in relation to spring power)

I'd look at the C-12 SA - about a 229mm barrel... Either normal version with crane stock bit cheaper Drop on a stubby if you find one Or the PDW version with nifty stock - but more expensive As said it is gonna be trade off no matter what But gotta look at pros n cons, Spend time/money only where needed EDIT - maybe the C05 with 12% off GF-SLADEAIRSOFT-163 comes out at € 124:92 plus GF shipping (and fees like paypal - bastards) maybe near € 140 but maybe one of cheapest options... That is about my best option, nice length, suppressor/flash hider looks just right at the end yeah I'd change little & just tweak the internals I guess to my spec However - there are a few options from your local retailer... Range of Specna Arms... https://www.softairgames.net/en/ricerca?submit_search=&search_query=specna+arms&orderby=price&orderway=asc&p=9 & 6 PDW Stock Gun options, 3 of which have X-ASR installed (but top of budget) https://www.softairgames.net/en/m4-m16-stubby/23441-electric-rifle-sa-c12-assault-replica-m4-short-keymod-pdw-two-tone-core-specna-arms-spe-01-027699.html https://www.softairgames.net/en/m4-m16-stubby/23437-electric-rifle-sa-c07-rra-logo-assault-replica-m4-noveske-cqb-keymod-pdw-black-core-specna-arms-spe-01-027694.html https://www.softairgames.net/en/m4-m16-stubby/23438-electric-rifle-sa-c07-rra-logo-assault-replica-m4-noveske-cqb-keymod-pdw-two-tone-core-specna-arms-spe-01-027695.html X-ASR: https://www.softairgames.net/en/m4-m16-stubby/20022-electric-rifle-sa-e10-edge-rra-m4-stubby-killer-pdw-replica-black-specna-arms-spe-01-026715.html https://www.softairgames.net/en/m4-m16-stubby/20024-electric-rifle-sa-e12-edge-m4-short-keymod-pdw-replica-black-specna-arms-spe-01-026717.html https://www.softairgames.net/en/m4-m16-stubby/23424-electric-rifle-sa-e21-edge-m4-m-lok-rex-short-pdw-replica-chaos-grey-specna-arms-spe-01-027067.html

What went tits up on the ARP ??? Thought you had the perun etu in there ??? Or mech failure ??? Well to each their own, old school or bells & whistles If a gun cycles at stock 13rps then that is slow to cycle and prone to lockup if you release trigger too early Where as if a gun cycles at say 19/20rps then less likely as it runs quicker to complete the cycle on semi (unless you are a wanker speedsofter spamming trigger to fuck) So as long the gun runs around 20rps & below 30rps then that will do most people If people want other bits, bells & whistles then is up to them I'm not bothered, but like to get a gun just nudging the twenties If possible, take up some trigger slack, not hairline BS (Can't really do hairline on reg mech trigger) Get it running sweet & a bit snappy on mild amps & that's it for me All guns have their flaws, so picking a base gun will be open to debate There is a lot to be said for a steady gun that is reliable Over another faster/more whistles one that is prone to failure No worries, you got the HB & now ARP to service So you got enough to keep you busy No real need to rush into another project whilst you got a couple needing attention Wait n see, see how it all goes

yup that is the one - it is designed to slip inside to centralise/improve alignment not space the hop unit that will drop fps ahhh well you got it sorted now

why did you install this ??? I've built up some tape between front of gearbox & hop which is effectively the same thing or seen posts saying remove hop spring that pushes hop unit back to gearbox etc... these measures are to lightly force the seal at bucking lips to blow slightly & usage is perhaps if you got a gun just a shade too hot, say 360fps for a 350fps limit and you know in a month or so the spring will bed in/fade a smidge & hop rubber and stuff gets "run in" (basically - guns do settle after a short time) so I'll assume you was a tad warm on chrono to add an o-ring like that some hops do have an o-ring on feed tube (can cause aggro) and sure I've seen a hop with an o-ring sitting in a groove, to centralise/reduce wobble/misalignment to box but set in a groove to not push hop away from box, purely for snug alignment reasons poxy guns still

Raider 1 is not a bad gun, I prefer the shorter version 233mm over the longer 350mm or so version (why I like the Cyma CM517 is coz it sits as a cheap Raider copy but in the middle at 295mm barrel) The Raider/Carbine sight is cast into the outer barrel end - not the two pins to remove front sight it is actually cast into the outer barrel end itself - some have actually hacked the front sight off coz it can't be removed The long/short versions have a final end barrel with sight cast into the piece - just a longer or shorter end barrel with cast sight The hop/dust cover on Raider v1's is sprung loaded shut, than pull charging handle to release & drop down this is how it is on V1 Raiders and slightly cheaper M4 carbines in the basic classic Combat Machines not a biggy - just letting ya know Bronze bushings likely - check wear & replace with steel ones under the gears the bronze bushing one under the spur wears rather quickly, if left unchecked it wears out of alignment then the gearset starts to go & teeth fly off Nice & easy to work on, weird screws on underneath as you'll know But mostly to let ya know the hop cover is sprung loaded which some are unaware of on classic CM Raider/Carbine guns Cheap low fps DSG project: grab a CM517, remove crap front sight - drift out small pin, remove tiny screw under sight - sight comes off take out outer barrel, give to a m8 with lathe - cut outer barrel down to say 15mm in front off RIS cut a 14mm ccw thread, shove in a 233~250mm inner barrel & better hop re-do box, leave most of it as is, but replace piston with full metal rack - usual mild tweaks drop in SHS dsg, maybe a m140 spring to get a 290fps or use existing m120 spring for low power German AEG rewire cheap mosfet budget light dsg sleeper gun (especially with a stubby stock & 11.1v block battery, yet not too insane wanker gun) TLDR - Raider is a nice base, a good starter gun to mess about with - just springy dust cover/flap

Glad you managed to split the gun now The Tamiya connector, normally there could be a join in wires Say 2.8mm spade connectors on most guns Or just one on negative, then disassemble fuse Failing that, just before you snip or desolder stuff On small tamiya find a tiny tube, maybe a pen/biro that just fits over the tamiya pins, that closes tiny pins So you can slide the pins out of tamiya connector Can also use a needle to pop the pin's tabs too (But a bit more tedious) Some small tamiya adapters from say large to small tamiya Well cheap Chinese fleabag adapters had the polarity/pinout incorrectly and when using them gun attempt to run backwards, stopped by AR Latch So it was not uncommon to pop the the adapter's pin and correct the polarity on cheapo adapters Large /small tamiya... Small tamiya has a SQUARE negative & ROUND positive But large tamiya has ROUND negative & SQUARE positive (cheapo connectors were the same & needed correcting) Sure it was something like a bic pen ink tube pen thingy That fitted inside to slip the pins out, but a needle works too

G&G CM18 is a nice gun - bit dated launched late 2014 older big white CM logo on receiver, same metal flip sights as FireHawk I call it the big brother/Daddy of FH came with better Blue Ferrite "Powerful Motor", sorta ferrite IFRIT motor However there is Raider 2.0E - E standing for ETU inside or the FFR A2... https://www.softairgames.net/en/m4-m16-stubby/4715-ffr-a2-cm16-ecu-black-gg-gg-egc-16p-fa2-bnb.html My FFR A2 - the ETU blew when I swapped motor after finding the slow lame std 18k grey motor inside (so went back to old school trigger/mosfet, new selector plate & 13:1 SHS motor etc...) G&G now also do a green 17k motor - really G&G, just make the Blue motor (ferrite) & Orange Ifrit (neodym) (Think there was a red motor, but reckon it was a forerunner to Ifrit, though honestly think 18k/17k should be shelved) here's a run down comparison of motors... as said Blue "Powerful" is a decent-ish ferrite motor not far behind the neodym Ifrit though weaker magnets means a bit less torque & slightly less rof under load maybe but better than the std 18k motor for sure, and both blue/orange motors are worth keeping for a cost effective build The Raider 2.0 E and/or the FFR A2 are about the cheapest G&G's with DairyLea ETU inside (dunno what motor is in Raider 2.0 (non ETU) or the 2.0 E (ETU) guns a 300 BOT "might" have a basic std mosfet but don't quote me on this & no clue about motor inside Unsure what is in the KR CQB, I'm guessing it is no mosfet like a CM18, but again dunno what motor is in there If trading on a used gun, then the motor's inside could be bit tired, needing a service/replacing but more in case you buy new or trade a hardly used gun perhaps, for a low budget build/project BUT - they are not QC spring boxes or receivers like SA c-10's etc... So you are unticking one of your boxes So me personally I'd still be leaning towards the C-10 or something... eg: maybe a CM18 type gun like the SA C05... https://gunfire.com/en/products/sa-c05-core-tm-carbine-replica-half-tan-1152215725.html or c08, c10, c11, c12 blah blah blah - no fancy pdw stock if changing to stubby Ideally, some base that matches the length/look you are aiming for without you needing external modding up front Best G&G option, find somebody with say a FFR A2 to swap with HB perhaps but as said, you are losing the QC option, which with strict field limits like you got then the QC option is a strong consideration if aiming for max 0.9999999j but not over What you are facing is a conundrum of minor trade offs most likely as I said against time/money/effort & availability/options in buying/trading/part-exchange etc... So this bit is like option 6 - maybe 7 & even option 8 Reckon you will be up to option 10+ by start of next week Though you got a few nice working guns to hand, so no need to rush making any decisions I would keep an eye out for a stubby stock, or some gun with it, to grab, mild tweak, replace with crane & sell on Then once you got a stubby, then look for light QC donor gun to go nutz on (other than that, I'd just bide my time as see what comes up)

Use a small robust screwdriver - like an old insulated electricians one... something like that, if it is a bit blunt sharpen with file for fine flat tip pop motor in a vice, DON'T FUCK ABOUT, get a vice (nearly gouged my hands thinking I'll be alright - DON'T BE A SILLY SOD, GET A VICE) slight angle, strike the driver down, inward slightly and lever out Fine tip to slip between tab & end bell and prise back sometimes the brittle plastic end bell gets muller'd, but reckon I got a 8 or 9 out 10 success rate A word of caution on Japanese motors, like Tokyo Marui, Systema etc... Their motors are slightly different by design, the end bells are not fully interchangeable there is some difference in end bell height or something & Systema use more chunky brushes and a bespoke Systema O pinion with grub screw - really weird Also - don't expect Japanese magnets to knock out of cans easily like cheapo China motors Them Jap's really glue their magnets in well and when tried to knock ferrite TM 1000 & Systema ferrite magnets Well they just chipped and shattered - yeah they ain't coming out like then China ones close them back up with screwdriver and a couple of taps of small hammer (after a while the tip blunts so sharpen or use another device/punch/screwdriver to close, or file the tip again) What to do with a load of weak magnets ??? well for poops & giggles you can wrap them around a pipe that is SUPPOSED to reduce hard water scale build up.... Yeah - like the old car fuel saving bollox, add a water tank in your boot to extract the Hydrogen & Oxygen to boost fuel economy and fed into fuel line saving you thousands in fuel costs - developed by NASA (Numpty Academic Scientific Arseholes) Don't delay - buy today, our operators are standing by you will be amazed at the savings (FUCK ALL), you will wonder how you got by without it before Your fiat Punto will be instantly transformed into a BMW M3.... naaaaahhh it's bollox - and never fucking worked despite all the claims they try to say Some old bollox device magnetic water softener that BS science says the magnetic field stops deposits forming in water pipes last time I looked into it it was sceptical if it really helped at all so the science says But what else you gonna do with all them crappy curved sets of ferrite magnets not sure if I'd use them on actual drinking water pipes but have chucked one on a cloakroom basin a while back didn't make my car go any faster, but my toilet is much cleaner thanks to the new improved H20 steam cleaner When the guy says: one of my favourites, I love cleaning the toilet with my H20 YEAH - fuck me m8, you need to get a life (ergh - says the bloke waffling about pipe magnets & other dumb shit) TLDR - just buy a £30 replacement and quit being a sad sod like moi, messing about with crap that usually ain't worth it

AY-0026 is all metal, tinpot metal receiver, slightly qwirky o-ring nozzle/hop unit and that bit missing off front of box (wouldn't build a DSG or stressy build in that box) AY aka ForceCore v2 gearbox, with chopped front end on top ??? only very very minor radius this box, coz fuck all there to begin with But after you get past it qwirks/flaws it still is a lot of bang for ya buck (bit of a cheap bang in quality - but still worth it for "must be metal" peeps) The real clincher is the rarer than rocking horse shit stubby stock than the so-so quality - but good bang for ya buck (maybe) Not QC, so really something SA like C-10 or whatever that nigh on fits the bill on looks/length (so altering little externally) If you got the ETU bits n bobs spare then yeah, worth a go like you proposed sounds good just saying wouldn't buy ETU kit new & then Perun upgrade on top As said - it needs a selector plate for DMR/single shot only hence why they include a selector in the G&G kit... (But your m8 is including the DMR/ETU selector plate so no biggy) coz it relies on COL popping up/down even in AUTO to inform ETU of sector's position/just fired/cycled But the way it always completes the cycle & parks is very clever Sure possible flimsy tiny micro tactile switches - damn fucking small But then fancy stuff with optical sensors can go all crazy if grease/dirt gets on them or misaligned sensors So the ETU's 3 x switches can be a little more simplified - with less likely to be effected by flying grease just don't pull the trigger ultra hard that it wrecks the tiny micro switch on trigger (The COL micro switch & the rear switch that detects semi/auto mode, are usually OK, it is the trigger one that can fail) But it is mainly the picky G&G ETU unit, where most of the problems are, thank fuck for Perun (G&G should just quit making their ETU unit, negotiate with Perun on bulk pricing and just use these instead) Then they might start selling more ETU guns, once they stop being so unreliable or temperamental (reclaiming some of their reputation they lost from iffy ETU's)

Trying to help (sell it) but seriously... SRC are meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I just don't know why but their receivers can still have the "loops" at the back of upper receiver and if you try to open a plastic SRC LOOP receiver - shitty loops can/will will break off Now some receivers are the more regular type Certain crappy BullDog or SRC Dragon guns have had "regular" (no loop) receivers with top part loopless, but have the usual rear lip/guide that slips into rear of lower receiver What you "might" have is a LOOP'd receiver and will run into some resistance trying to split it In which case, the safest/recommended option might be to remove pistol grip (along with all pins), mag catch etc... and then... the top receiver separates with the gearbox attached to it - WTF ??? WITH ALL PINS OUT it might separate like this... and as it is the SR4 series, the only generic manual I can find is this... https://www.unit13shop.eu/download/SRC-SR4.pdf which seems to show a LOOPED SM4-81 receiver on left... (416 type maybe) and perhaps a more regular receiver SM4-51 on right So it seems you might need to strip the gun, remove grip, all pins, don't forget tiny pin AND mag catch etc... clear wiring ensure it is all free etc... then slide slightly forward & up and it should separate with box perhaps like video shows if does - it is a bit of a wank just to get into the gun ffs & if looped would be a big wank to change hop/bucking oddly enough - SRC can't even get the name of their own gun correct... it is the MAMBA as in snake, but they keep referring to it as the MANBA instead of MAMBA I'd be concerned if the company can't even get the friggin' name of their gun correct on their own site (makes you wonder what else they made a pigs ear of inside) could be 6mm or 8mm bushings/bearings - steel they say better than shitty green plastic bushings they was using say 8 years ago or worse - NO BUSHINGS in their shit plastic gearboxes in some of the ultra cheap Dragon's (gears just popped into the 3mm holes in the plastic v2 gearbox and the alloy sector was made of DairyLea) But at least they stopped using the dated two part M4 hop unit... But those loop receivers - jeez what a ball ache to change stuff

Thunder Maul is front wired & just a load of extra plastic glitter sprinkled over a turd But a cheap gun - but so is a Cyma CM517 Could take a 517 and pull it about - but not QC Could take a SA-C02 & pull it about Could grab a SA-C18 & hunt for a rocking horse shit fixed stubby stock Though I'd be tempted to see if you can source a C10 locally in Italy... https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/specna-arms-rock-river-arms-sa-c10-core-stubby-cqb-carbine?pv=7952 or nearby... https://www.toysoldier.pl/product/SPECNA-ARMS-Replika-karabinka-RRA-SA-C10-CORE--s413 Still need a fixed stubby, shame you couldn't grab the AY-0026 https://gunfire.com/en/products/ay-a0026-carbine-replica-black-1152225576.html nick the stock, fit the c10 crane on it & tweak/flogg it Personally - something like the C10 ticks most of the boxes - except the stock reason I'm leaning towards it coz I would change little - likely keep the front end as is trying to mess about with it as little as possible & just focus on tweaking the internals a bit add a tiny basic mosfet like perun, maybe take up any slack in trigger... Or wait for m904G to come back in stock but then you got the HB anyway ??? Realistically - you are never get everything without work, hassle or a trade off So you could also get the HB running sweet & stick with it mostly as is than change loads & loads just seen your reply... The JG is an option, but not QC box OR RECEIVER - so more work I was going to suggest buying the JG stubby AND the SA-10, swapping stocks then flogging the JG stubby with crane stock - bit like the AY-0026 option but JG is more money new, but if you get it cheap from a m8 then is an option The ETU is a POS, mostly the mosfet unit - but perun option, though say £40 on top but the ETU switch unit is not exactly ultra robust & those 3 tiny micro-switches can/do bust sometimes BUT - it does work well (When it fucking works) You flick the trigger for a nano second and it will always complete the cycle 101% it will fire once on semi or once if full auto (if just tapped a slit second) & fully complete the cycle or if using burst, a quick flick for a fraction of a second & it will fire 3 rounds and park perfectly (using mild AB too I think) It is very clever - just the G&G reliability is shit Perun upgrade is great - but another £40, which is OK if you already have a ETU gun that is fucked But to consider building a ETU gun, then the Perun upgrade - hmmm, why not buy the Perun optical to begin with ??? Unless you are talking about buying the ETU upgrade for the ARP at some point Also the G&G ETU guns, the selector plate is a modded DMR type = so no lifting of COL for old school full auto not that this matters, but if you ever rip out the ETU and go old school you need a new selector plate too (of if buying the G&G full ETU kit, they should supply a modded DMR type selector, so never lifting COL) Again it is where do you start & where do you stop scenario I'd be tempted to maybe go with a SA-10, stick with old school snappy stuff see if you can get the JG stubby for just the stock, swap stocks over & flogg JG maybe Take the SA-10 with stubby to its limit for very snappy old school response Maybe consider the Perun ETU upgrade for the ARP at some point to run a snappy 13:1 7.4v if battery space is tight & perhaps get the HB running well, run with that for a while whilst you consider all options 7 if it is all worth it in the end yeah it is all do-able, but at what cost: time, money, aggro etc... So you have to weigh all these things up & I'm sure you could talk yourself into & out of various options (and STILL think to yourself - yeah but what if....) But what else are we all doing, looking at toy gun options & wondering what our next project will be

Congrats - I know you was after one, bit rare like hens teeth they are (especially the stubby ones) Not all of them come with the fixed stock ring... some do - quite a few don't, easy to grab a cheap plastic M4 stock ring and chop it up (can hack a metal stock ring up but a lot more work) but think you needed the back mostly for the opening door on ICS so no biggy, but you got the back you wanted and the option of stubby or full stock now (if I'm correct it was for the ICS M4 & don't need the fixed stock ring on ICS I think) Bolt lengths are a little different - shorter bolt on ICS coz of stock tube thingy than into spring guide so the full size fixed stock m5 bolt may be about 20mm to 1 inch or 25.4mm too long Guess you could shove the full stock with closed back on a M4/SR25 DMR setup if you wanted (or keep it as spare as it took so long to find something) But yeah fixed stocks, seemed to have fizzled out & a little tricky to source for a couple of years well done anyway

CUNT - soz, mods delete this at some point but scammers are the lowest of all thieves where they fully plan their deception & theft from innocent victims often on genuine normal working folk deeply impacted by the theft opportunist thief, smash n grab is one thing but scammers are scum **** RANT OVER **** - MODS DELETE THE ABOVE Sorry to hear this Pete, Protonmail is a no questions asked email Sim card was likely a PAYG basic burner phone too Hope you are protected, order wasn't too much (maybe introduce an initial first order limit - but might put people off) as you said just aggro you can do without

my initial reaction... Don't worry too much about nozzle position - it is just a bit slight overspin (and I mean slight, if it was seriously pre-cocking, the nozzle would have retracted & returned) Too many people worry about nozzle position thinking something is wrong - it isn't if all operates OK By the looks of things you have more pressing issues to concern yourself with 6mm bushings, how old is this gun ??? Which might indicate a bit of wear (so much the bushing worn away completely - sarcasm) think you might want a pack of shims too - coz can't see any on that sector/missing bushing-gear take pics (loads), but try to change as little as possible - just get her working again on your first attempt do a couple of dry runs closing up box without spring, so you get the hang of fiddly trigger & Cut Off Lever (all trying to jump around as you close it all up) Get the hang of how it closes up - springless, will help you when you finally close the box fully Best of luck

The Yanks over say at Airsoft society forums, pulling 400fps DSG's Have to drill the box and use cable ties to hold the m180 springs down Whilst they close up the regular box The FH is such a short barrel it needs a bit more powerful spring So it REALLY was a struggle to close the box up like a normal one on my own Took many attempts, hands now greasy and once it was closed the tappet spring wasn't attached So have to open it up and do it all over again -aaarggghhh It was real challenge, was very pleased with results but still a wanker gun on reflection Actually it is a fucking wanker gun coz no semi In hindsight I should have just gone SHS DSG & fitted COL - but hey ho improved upon it (Even with STD motor before fitting the mental motor) *** Don't buy a FH HC05 and find out no semi like I did **" I think the real accomplishment is squeezing the most efficiency out of a box By changing as little as possible or keepingthe amps as low as possible when making a gun ultra snappy But as said if you got that DSG itch, then sometimes you gotta scratch it We done though - it takes some time and skill and you can say you've done it

DSG' are highly over rated imho... Now 40rps is coz of using a very fast motor which is dumb and is a high stress DSG' it is fucking dumb But not as dumb as G&G making a gun full auto only But imho they are wanker guns And you can obtain similar rof if doing a 13:1 & SHS HT 30K build People might say ahhh but trigger response is better... Yes we'll you can do pre-cock to get near that response Ahhh but you can pre-cock the DSG to get even greater response Oh FFS, just how small is your penis you are trying to compensate for Now no offense it is a bit of fun & a challenge Just getting that box closed up with a m160 spring But on reflection I don't rate them myself There are possibly two scenarios where I could see me using them If I had say a cheap base gun like a 74 like the CM.521 Or maybe a G36c like JG - both guns with a 223-250mm barrel If I wanted to go nuts on a budget changing as little as possible Then using strong cheap box, drop the DSG in, metal rack piston Basic MOSFET and if lucky the std motor might pull a m140 on 11.1v Change as little as possible, probably total cost £20 to £25, £30 tops (Probably include a steel COL, but change as little as possible) The other instance would be in Germany where full auto is 250fps and on the low power, you can't increase rof much or get PME Which is likely one of the reasons behind the HC05 In which you build a DSG' with say m130, get high rof even stock motor at their low 245fps or whatever without risk of PME The issue with DSG's is that they draw high amps So to lower that you use a slower torque motor which lowers the rof AND when all things taken into account... You get similar results from a 13:1 SS 3 Teeth 30k To say a DSG on a 22tpa, plus the 13:1 SS can be applied to most guns Not just limited to say 250mm barrels like a DSG The 13:1 build can be run on 7.4v without being a wanker @ 24rps Or a mild 11.1v maybe, but PME can take place at near 40rps If you get say 20rps on 7.4v then 32rps on a beefy 11.1v should be OK You get a similar rof, not quite the exact same response perhaps But way better than stock, without the higher amp draw of DSG's (plus without the insane spring, tappet timings of a DSG etc...) I think most capable people who have an itch should build one Just to get it out of their system - I really do believe this But after you have built one & a few "normal" snappy SSG's I reckon 9/10 people will likely come to the same conclusion as I did DSG's in general are not really that practical & yeah they are basically a wanker gun which on reflection, I'll stick to snappy 13:1 builds instead *** Disclaimer *** This is just my personal opinion, I said if you have an itch - scratch it But overall if you take your time a 13:1 SS build gets near a DSG Using a m120 say will be easier to close up box blah blah blah Some will agree, some will disagree - still very proud of doing the HC05 I learnt a LOT from it The point of me posting is not to rain on anybody's DSG parade (Honest) But more to point out, that you should only scratch that itch If you very competent and have to scratch it so to speak If you build a couple of good 13:1's Then with the experience you gain build a DSG I think most people will say - yeah I'll stick to the 13:1 stuff Which to some reading this thinking I gotta have/build one Hmmm no you don't HAVE to build one Unless you got a really really bad itch as I said

Well thanks for your 200% honesty on the shimming as said EVERYTHING went 101% perfectly I'd say Your team's tech is very pleased too at the results I'd expect 24rps would be a good build say 340fps on that spec (30k + 13:1 etc...) the extra 3.5rps could be 12:1's or if the slightly lower 325fps would equate to that much extra zest Yeah that Alpha wire is damn good stuff - max wire capacity available wrapped around a very very thin but tough insulation bit stiffer than usual wire but is 16awg in 18awg thickness so easy to install in tight spaces (maybe leave a review for the Alpha Wire as Pete took the plunge to stock it) Not only did you get expected good results - you got fucking AWESOME RESULTS Congrats to both you & your tech friend effectively doubling the rof & turning it into a sleeper gun or wolf in sheep's clothing 11 out of 10 - nope make that 12 out of 10

it is good for people that know what they are buying... some prices are cheaper than the bigger Gunfire.pl range of stock is not as vast as GF but delivery is cheaper and TWG don't bolt you up with a paypal fee They don't offer two-tone afaik, so defense required to order range of spares is not as big as GF, some spares are cheaper/more expensive some parts/accessories are from lesser known manufacturers & some are very good and some not so good & a few are shit tbh (really should have a feedback/review section for items but hey ho) They used to offer free shipping to UK on 350 orders like GF but stopped that about two years ago - bastards, (still do free ship to Ireland so blame Brexit) used to do a points/loyalty thing like GF but stopped that about 5 years ago (GF points is completely shit now - fuck all being offered for points, not even free delivery for XXX points) TWG stock some stuff that GF doesn't, some stuff is same similar (eg budget cheapo Cyma CM.5xx is renamed Spartac on GF) You won't find VFC, G&G etc... on TWG but likely something that floats your boat as said - it is a good site if you know what you are looking for read up, compare with GF and decide for yourself a close second to GF, sometimes better than GF depending on what you are after

Just saying... Pete has had incorrectly labelled stuff in before

The more I keep thinking about this, the more I think you got 12:1's I mean you 16rps on the motor at first even if you got 18rps on std 18:1 gears when you fitted the 13:1's you gained over 50% rps ??? Even 12:1 @ say 12.75:1 compared to 18.65:1 = 46.25% and with the extra strain from gearing ratio expect a 40% max increase and on 13:1 over 18:1 expect say a 33% increase in rps than say 38% actual increase in rps Even so @ 18rps std gears a 40% increase from gearing = 18 x 1.4 =25.2 rps and even if you obtained the full ratio increase from 12:1 @ 46.25% equates to 18rps x 1.4625 = 26.325rps and you never quite get the full stamped/marked ratio or true actual ratio in real use coz the ratio slightly adds to the force of the drive chain hence 12:1 vs 18:1 never means 50%, not even true 46.25% but more like 40% (and 13:1 vs 18:1 = say 33% increase) so even a 12:1 set which it "could" be the rps would only go up by 40% or 1.40 and it seems you was about 17rps tops than 18rps Though I think with very thick wire and ultra lucky assembly you could have nudged near 19rps on 18:1 SHS HT but to get 27.5rps - you gotta have 12:1's than 13:1's imho unless the spring dropped in power and you got a much superior seal & transfer of power/bucking/nub etc.... (basically dropping the spring power say m10 & excellent seals, gaining fps, resulting in a couple more rps etc...) Or motor is say 35k not 30k but then you would have got more than 16rps initially I'd have thought I tend to lean it was a lucky fortunate build where EVERYTHING went 101% perfectly and perhaps gears were 12:1's instead of 13:1's I'm not try to take nothing away from ya though, it really is a FUCKING AWESOME BUILD sir, seriously 11 out of 10 sir on bushings too ffs but just trying to defend & justify where my Vulcan calculations may have differed from the final result or failing that Mr Spock would simply say...