Darkmikey22

Now I am guilty of heavy wearing my collection. But alot can be hidden with spray paint. And sometimes I do believe that a good spray job looks better than any other weathering. So as pictured is my mk46 and GPMG barrel. I have worn the mk46 a small bit just around the edges. But then I sprayed it and then weathered the paint away without damaging the weapon, and leaving it looking like it's just come off the battle field. Same as my gpmg barrel. It's not worn like you thing. The original paint is untouched underneath. I sprayed it car trim steel colour, then sprayed it black over the top. All I did was white sprit some of the black away and now looks like it's been on the ranges for a few weeks. But if you feel like you want to weather then I do say less is more. Like above, unless your going for a specific look like I've done with the susats and gpmg. Just keep it simple and just do the outlines to give it a patina, but then let general use kick in like in the pick with the browning. But at end of the day it's down to the user. If you want it worn then that's great. If you want it looking new then that's great too.

My early 90's P226 is slowly getting there. It's a TM with full guarder kit along with a Genuine surefire, genuine early west german grips and a steel replica early rear sight. A few other little bit left to alter, but not looking far off.

Another eBay chancer..... How much for a replica mount?. I know they're hard to find these days, but damn....

It's all good bro. I was the same as nearly got scammed myself till I did some research. Here's how to tell. This is compared to the ARES/STAR version. So where the red arrows are. Position 1, there is a small hole not present of the airsoft. Position 2, here there are 2 circles that on the real one are on the left hand side and stick out. On the airsoft version they are on the right side and recess in to the body. Position 3, there is a small hole there, which is present on both sides. Also not on the airsoft version. Position 4, the way you get to the lense. It's on the rear on the real one, yet is on the front of the airsoft. Then there's the markings. The real one will always start with AVL, and year starts from 1985 up. ARES/STAR and a few other clones all start STX and the year is always 2005. Then is the NSN number. The airsoft one isn't even correct on any part of it. Now there are a few other really minor signs, but these are the obvious. Hope that helps bud.

I've come across this problem a few times in the last week, but seems to be a few people selling ARES/STAR susats as genuine real ones. There were 2 on here in last few days. But then there's this complete tool. Now usually I would message the seller on here as its airsoft related, but not quite sure how to word it on ebay. As would usually just keep scrolling, but this is alot of money to be scammed out of if someone unsuspecting believes it.

Evening. So I recently had made some SA80 QR codes stickers. But now I'm researching other British army platforms to possibly make others. Now the real one it actually a metal plate laser engraved with both serial number and NSN number. Only exceptions to the NSN are most scopes (Which are square with just serial Number) And pistols (Recrangular with just serial number). Now all I'm after is mainly any images (can pm direct instead of public posting) of real ones on their relevant platforms. Or atleast they're correct NSN numbers along with serial number layout. Here's what I have so far. Any I'm not sure on I will put a ? Next to and see if any one in the know can actually rectify me. So far; L7A2 gpmg - 1005 13 103 2524 L110 minimi - 1005 13 118 7438 L85A2 - 1005 99 250 9030 L85A3 - 1005 99 155 2342 L86 LSW - 1005 99 755 3033 L22A2 - 1005 12 362 1943 (?) L123 UGL - 1010 12 365 6037 L129 - 1005 99 226 6708 L119A1 10" cqb 1005 20 007 5878 16" sfw 1005 21 920 6546 L119A2 10" 1005 20 008 7499 16" 1005 20 008 7498 6x acog - 1240 01 585 6194 4x acog - TA31 - 1240 01 588 2220 (?) TA01 - 1240 01 412 6608 Now I know I still need others like hk417 (L2A1) and the acog with rmr and offset iron sights. But if I've missed any weapons that you know the nsn for, or have seen QR codes on, please let me know. Some pics to show my first batch

Made a batch of SA80 QR sticker. One for the Sa80 and one for SUSAT. Both with the ARES serial numbers. I also used some clear stickers to place over the top like they do for real too to finish the look. OK the numbers wouldn't be right, and looking at making more. But they do work on othe platforms too as I have done with my gpmg. Top one mine, bottom is a real gpmg with code. Here they are on my L22/susat and gpmg.

The kit is a good start. I would raise the holster and mag pouches a little higher up your legs. As the real ones would sit around your pocket area and not the thigh. As for the MP5, a few bits will need to change. The forgrip was early type, I believe octagon airsoft still have some. The lower will need to be the SEF type lower and not the navy type. The original torch was not a maglight, It's a streamlight SL20. I'm happy to help you go through the mp5 as built one myself.

The retro Diemaco C8 is almost there. So far; G&P M733 Upper G&P C8 lower G&P Steel flash hider G&P Steel 653 barrel G&P Steel M16A1 front sight GUARDER real delta ring RS buffer spacer plate RS diemaco but pad RS ar sling RS sling swivel RS barrel/muzzle washer Still to source. Correct style buffer tube and locking ring. Steel parts I.E mag release, selector lever etc.

Trying to do an old school look. P226 with guarder kit. Genuine surefire, correct older style rear sight. Just need to find the early style grips.

I must admit Im Showing my age, but I had a few of those from the catalogue. My springer xm177 used to have a lever that pulled down from underneath the handguard so you could cock the weapon. Not from that book, but the one I did miss was my centre meter master nbb pistol.

Its from a game called portal. Well infact it's portal 2. What a game..... Just to add, Zeroin has actually disappeared from Google search.

I know the action man you were in about. It was they're take on the pvs 4 night vision scope. Also used to fire something out of the 203 if my memory serves me correct. And I won't be doing that with these. As based of reference pics

Getting the retro band back together. All these are accurate takes on uksf AR platforms the best I can for AEGs. Sorry for poor phone pic. From top to bottom..... Colt model 715 (later known as C7) Diemaco L119A1 Colt model 725 (later known as C8)

I too have the G&P VLTOR. As said, the dust cover won't close, plus it comes with the sound hog as standard and not a normal flash hider. However your stock has definitely been changed. What's with your front rail? Has it been sprayed? Looks odd. As for price, hard to say. I was going to put mine up for around the 220-250 mark with everything on it. If your selling as is in the pics, then would hazard a guess around 180-200. Hope that helps bud

Heres all the British stuff I have at moment. Some are still wip. And currently working on a retro model 725 as used by sfsg. Next will be the G3 turned into a G3KA4.

Lovely as always Andy. Need to get my collection out for an updated family photo 🤣

Not a surefire either!!!! It's a streamlight SL20 used in embassy siege. Here's mine.....

That would be great buddy. So spent the day doing a second susat and LSW.

Thank you, means alot. Still got an LSW and UGL to work on to get to a high level. Just need to source a couple of bits, like a couple of broken or cheap element LLM01's to complete the looks on ugl and L22. Also need to source a replacement or real lsw bipod as mine stuffed. Also looking at getting the HK A2 logo laser engraved on all of my sa80s. Coz at moment I've used the scratch on stickers, which aren't great.

Update on the L22. Finally sourced a real HK foregrip. Plus after some help from a member on here, have designed and made some correct Sa80 and susat QR code stickers.

Done that to mine. So I'm looking forward to seeing yours.

Latest acquisition. Ares L22A2. Weathered it a little, still a wip. I've weathered susats before, but this was my first attempt almost close to accurate.

I do get where you're coming from. But on some items that are nearer the 1k mark, I'd bump a few times. Because some items are worth their value all day long, and gives people chance to find the funds. But on flip side I have seen people sell clone items and wanting real steel prices.