BrightCandle

In the end all the guns fail and you will learn how to maintain its internals. So yeah it really doesn't matter all that much, externals are basically what counts as everything inside can be repaired and replaced, most of the bits that have a tendency to break are usually cheap so long as you learn how to do it yourself.

I fog on just about anything because I sweat more than anyone I know. Fogging is a real issue for me generally. I have tried a few full seal solutions (Bolle Raiders and now Desert Locusts with a fan) and in both cases I have tried glasses inserts and its not worked out. The inserts for me fog immediately, they are much more prone to fogging/rainout than the lenses of the goggles themselves. But if contacts don't work then you don't have a lot of options, you have to try a prescription insert. Get a set of goggles you are happy with and that take a prescription insert there are a lot of choices from ESS, Revision, Bolle and Oakley that can do this. You can take the inserts to your opticians to get them glazed but ask for polycarbonate lenses, and if they do it also get an anti fog coating on that as well. If they don't do an anti fog coating you can at least get an anti fog spray, they are pretty much all the same, they delay the inevitable if you are getting hot and wet then they are going to eventually impair your vision but at least its not immediately. The other option is some really big goggles that go over the top of the glasses, some mesh ones might be very appropriate here as they wouldn't fog up. But I can't say I have tried any that allow glasses underneith, but I know airsoftgi has a video about goggles and mesh masks and which ones they have tried over glasses which might help you out.

Personally I would choose either a close quarters M4 or more likely a sub machine gun. MP5, MP9 or UMP. The shorter barrel length really is an advantage when trying to clear doorways in close environments.

Those Scar's a pain in the backside to take apart, more than one reviewer mentioned how awkward the SCAR design is for maintenance internally. The accuracy tests I have seen look to put it a bit below average but more than acceptable. FPS varies quite on G&G guns, some of them come in below site limits and some really don't. They seem to produce a very high variance and you don't really know what it will do until you get it.

I had the same problem with 0.25g's in the same gun. I have issues with the GR16 magazines, if I load them past 100 rounds I get quite a few poor feeds in the beginning of the magazine and its made worse by a heavier BB. The issue is almost certainly in the tappet spring strength and it seems to be a design flaw on these guns (you and I both have it). Either we both have exactly the same fault or the gun itself has a bad part. Without voiding the warranty I don't know of a way to fix it and so far I have been living with loading 100 rounds in and using 0.20g's. I am hoping fixing my hop will fix my accuracy issue I have with the gun but so far its been a disaster this T4-18 in general.

I had a look through one of the 3x flip to the side magnifiers at pro airsoft, although its the same model we basically see everywhere else. It was slightly coloured but my main concern was the eye relief, which was only 2cm. The problem I have with an eye relief that low is that with goggles on you really are looking at having it on the glass of the goggles or very near to it in order to fire, and that isn't going to be very comfortable. Your picture has double the eye relief of what I tried. So I would recommend you go to a shop, ring up anyone you intend to buy one from and confirm the eye relief and colouration before you buy anything. I haven't personally found a good one yet and its the reason I am considering buying a short dot instead (the short dot will also be less heavy) which is 1-4x zoom.

Based on my experience with G&G rifles so far I would say try the G&P. I have had some pretty poor performance out of my G&G's so far, both have required replacement parts to work correctly.

Add yourselves to the skirmish map (http://www.airsoftmap.net/Skirmish/) so that airsofters can find you easily.

G&P has the better externals usually, G&G typically has better gearbox, although all this really depends on which models you are comparing.

No don't do that. Even if the G&G mosfet does burn out (its a quality control issue, some of them are fine and others really aren't) then you can just replace the mosfet if it does burn out with a better one. The Gen 3 however will already be wired for the mosfet, have the thicker and higher quality wire and won't double fire with a high voltage lipo. The gen 3 despite its mosfet issues is still a better option than a gen 2.

All that says is that G&G has quality control issues and someone could still get a good gun or a bad one. That in itself is one of the major complaints people throw at WE so its not like its OK that I have received two lemons, it just goes to show G&G has problems still.

I have both a transparent combat machine and I have a T4-18 gen 3. In terms of problems out of the box they both had issues with their hop unit, the CM16 overhopped with no hop applied and the T4-18 has high variance. The CM16 in addition came at 340 fps and I had to downgrade the spring to play CQB with it. The end result of all the internal upgrades between the CM16 and the T4-18 gen 3 is a grouping about half the size at 10metres, a bit more range and a 15 rps instead of 12 rps. The top tech has more consistent crono, its more accurate and it looks a lot better. It also weights twice as much due to the metal body, and while its tough its also a pretty heavy gun and its all on the front because of the metal rail system at the front. The T4-18 is a decent gun in its own right, I don't think its a good idea to get one for the purpose of two toning it however. Either get a CM16 transparent or pay your rental and then go about buying the T4-18 once you have your UKARA,

The Combat machines do not have a dust cover that comes down with the charging handle pull, nor is there a bolt. The charging handle isn't attached to anything but a spring, it has no function at all. On the higher end G&G guns the charging handle does flip the cover open but not the on combat machines. My Combat machine fired quite high and too the right out of the box. I had to wrap the barrel with tape to reduce the wobble and replace the standard nub with a H nub to get it firing within an adjustable range. I also had to downgrade the spring to an M90 to get it below 328 fps as out of the box it was firing 340. The other problem I had with it was the stock hi cap that came in the box, it was rubbish. It didn't feed BBs very well, really unreliable. I also bought it a flash mag and that was a lot better, completely reliable. My CM16 came out of the box firing 12 rps on a 7.4V 2400mah lipo (25C). That isn't very impressive but it was sufficient. Other than the changes I had to make for accuracy/hop and the magazine it worked reliably until it was retired for my now hated T4-18.

I don't carry a first aid kit on my gear nor do I take one to the game. I can see why some people would but I just don't want to carry the weight and waste gear space on it when the site will almost certainly have more gear than I would bring.

Then maybe heroshark is the way to go. It took me a lot of hours to get this right and multiple goes, but in the end I got it into a reasonable state. Part of the reason it didn't fit perfectly the first time is I didn't want to cut too much off (you can always take more off but never put more on) and because with the elastic off its hard to measure perfectly I kept on that caution side. On the dremel I used two tools. The cutter wheel for the main cuts and the sander parts for taking away the sharp edges and smoothing it out. That sanding wheel really helped a lot to clean up the cuts where the wire cutters especially left spikes.

Getting a mesh mask to fit under the goggles takes a bit of effort. I used a dremel, some wire cutters and a hot glue gun. I followed these instructions: I see a lot of people with mesh masks that don't fit under their goggles very well, the picture above being a great example with the big gaps under the eyes. With the big goggles Revision Desert Locusts the nose doesn't get covered and with small goggles the face under the eyes doesn't. I also think in a lot of cases the mesh mask is too long for peoples faces, it should just come to the chin and no further, but based on the way the headband pulls you often have to cut from the top and not the bottom so it naturally sits in the right place. You just need to spend some time with the right tools. I ended up cutting my mesh mask 3 times. The first time got the right shape but I had it sometimes interfering with the goggles at the sides, it could fit just not most of the time and it depended too much on where the goggles were on the face and it wasn't the ideal place. The second time I fixed that but then what would happened is the mesh would have a tendency to push the goggles up a little. I fixed that by trimming off the top and reducing the overall length and now its just 1cm past the chin. So its going to take a little while to get it right and its going to take a few attempts at cutting before you have it working as you want. But don't do what most people do and just live with it. Its easy enough to fix with some glue and some wirecutters, just make sure you can pull the glue off to modify it again in the future because you'll almost certainly want to tweak it.

I use green gas on my We P228. FPS on a hot summers day seems to be right around 300.

In the end I decided while I had the gun open to try a G hop using a prometheus inner and outer bucking. I didn't do anything else with it, I didn't open the gearbox although I do have a replacement 110 spring for it at some point in the future but I want to test each part individually. I have just done a chrono and FPS is at 305 with .2g blasters. Its not the 315-320 it came out of the box but its also not varying very much at all, the lowest I saw was 303 and the highest was 306, so its really consistent again as well as only a little below its out of the box performance. The groupings on paper at 10m with 0.2g's are down to 1 inch horizontally again, but vertically its less than 1cm. The 0.28g BB drops the grouping further and I am pretty certain I am seeing my limits in those and not the guns, its less than 1cm and its about the sort of groupings I get with a 22 olympic class rifle off the block. I'll try it out this Saturday at TWA and I'll see how the g hop performs. I am hoping based on this initial accuracy and zeroing in that the gun is now going to shoot a lot more like it ought to and I might finally be impressed with it again. Its funny my other G&G also needed work to its hop up unit as well.

You can fix the tight fit. What I did was grind out the spine at the back of the magwell, which isn't there on an M4 magwell. This will loosen up the fitting. I have messed with the hop and bucking today and found that the bucking isn't coming down straight into the barrel. I fitted a Prometheus purple bucking I have and twisted the barrel until its actually straight so that the hop applies correctly. Will test it out tomorrow to see if that fixes the spread (although hard to tell at 10m) and also test the airseal to see if I need to do anything there as well.

I have a T4-18 and I am pretty unhappy with the range and accuracy. At 30m the spread of fire is at least 3 feet horizontally and more vertically. I really can't get any more range out of it, the rounds drop off shortly after that. Since getting the gun FPS has dropped from 315 to 290 and I can literally see the inconsistency in the hop being applied to each round, its taking a lot of overhop to reach that far at all and accuracy is impacted as its impossible to zero the gun properly due to the high flight path BBs take at that range, I am using a substantial hold to be able to fire at all. Online accuracy tests with my gun reviewed and others seem to suggest mine is not achieving what you would expect, groupings down to the inches at 30m would be a dramatic improvement. I can't hit a human in the open at 30m at all, so I am fairly certain the gun is not functioning as it should. From tests I have done indoors at 10m my accuracy has dropped off. Initially I could get 1 inch groupings, now its more like 4 inches at the same range as before. Chronograph tests show a fairly stable FPS, its not varying by more than about 5fps across 10 shots, so I think the air seal is consistent but I would have to void the warranty to do an airseal test on the cylinder/piston/head. I have a couple of thoughts about how to go from here: 1) Just get a different gun and sell the T418 CQC. One thing I keep seeing on forums is that accuracy tends to be best around 450mm inner barrel length, below that there is a reduction (how much I don't know) and past that it can have no benefit or even be a bit worse. Thus I would likely replace it with a more standard M4 instead of the CQC model I have now which is only 350mm. 2) Replace the hop bucking, replace the spring to restore power (site is 350 fps so 110 spring) and potentially upgrade the barrel. Void my warranty and try and get the gun to function better with upgrade parts. If the air seal turns out to be an issue then do cylinder head (Double O ring), piston head and fit a nozzle replacement and get that air seal behaving as it should. Would have to keep the cylinder do to the EBB. 3) Should this sort of problem be covered by the warranty and hence I should just send it back for repair? 4) All of (2) + a new inner barrel. The G&G top techs are meant to have 6.03 tightbore barrels already, so I am wondering if I should get a higher quality 6.03 like a Prometheus or PQI and whether that will be a decent improvement. Will replacing the bucking help as well? I am certainly considering trying a G hop since its relatively simple to do and the current hop looks like its terribly inconsistent. I don't really know what to do with my lemon gun, my opponents have more range and better accuracy in these moderate range engagements and I am loosing engagements I ought to win if the gun was more accurate. I am typically using 0.25g Blaster BBs if that makes any difference here (ie decent quality somewhat heavier BBs although I have bought some 0.28g Blaster Devils to try as well). Thoughts?

Lipo batteries can set on fire if you damage them enough to pierce them. They can also set on fire if you overcharge them (ie you don't use a smart charger). If you run it empty it will stop working. But this type of battery is basically everywhere these days, because its energy density for weight and space is better than anything else. A 7.4 V lipo battery will fit about 40-50% more power in the same space. They also don't need to discharged and recharged, you just top them up.

I am using a universal holster off the belt. It can also be used as a drop leg setup but I really didn't get on with that, it didn't really hold very well. Because I wear a chest rig instead of a plate carrier I have a bit more room between the belt and the magazines so I find the two don't interfere with each other.

Personally I just go buy a rough estimate of 1mah = 1 shot. I can roughly track how much ammo I have used and hence track when my gun likely needs a battery change. More nominally the efficiency is more like 1.5 shots per 1mah but I am not trying to empty my battery out, I am just ensuring I swap it before it runs out. But honestly I swap it at lunch regardless, and there is no way in a couple of hours of gameplay that I rack through enough ammo to get through a 2400 mah battery anyway. I don't carry that much ammo, more like 1200 rounds. The battery testers are basically worthless when the estimation is so easy and the batteries relatively cheap.

My T4-18 gen 3 runs on a 7.4V 25C and its survived 6 weeks or so, all fine so far.

You know about the position of the gears and the selector lever being in the right places before you put it together? I found getting it apart dead easy, but putting it back together, well that requires a little more knowledge. Not much, its not super complicated but you need to know a few key things.