Russe11

What is WW2 Airsoft?:
 
WW2 airsoft comes in 2 varieties. There are airsofters who turn up for normal airsoft skirmishes in WW2 gear. We shall ignore this for the purposes of this guide.
-Basic WW2 games. These are the best games to start with. Gear needed will be down to personal choice but basically avoid modern camo and if you don't have a ww2 era gun or wood stocked rifle you should wrap it in hessian. The more effort you put into your gear the more you will get out of the event, but no-one will expect you to spend a fortune if you cannot afford to.
-Niche WW2 games. The equipment requirements for these are bit more specific. There may be a specific era that gear should be based on. As an example, I have a game coming up set in 1940 with only rifles allowed. This means that uniforms must be correct for this time as far as is possible.
All WW2 games will require you to act as part of a squad. Running around as a lone wolf is frowned upon. In fact many games have a rule that if you are the last member of your squad alive, you cannot advance.
Usually the game will have some sort of story-line built into it so you have to achieve certain objectives.
The Uniforms, teamwork and story-line add together to produce games very different and more immersive than a normal airsoft game.
 
What gear should I get?
 
Choose a side. American, British or German will be usable for most games. Russian will get you 1 or maybe 2 games a year, Japanese have never been done in a game yet.
Get a hat. The helmet shapes for each side are very different so headwear is important in identifying teams, if you cannot afford the rest of the uniform, a helmet is a good start. Plastic replicas will do the job just fine.
Start with basic infantry uniform. Your bog standard infantry are the guys who do all the work and are at every battle but don't get the glory. The fact that they are at every battle means that once you have this look sorted, you are ready for most games. You can then adapt your gear to be a commando/airborne/SAS etc.
Guns!!!: Any WW2 era gun is fine for any side. You may feel you want the right one for your uniform though. Start with a SMG. The ASG Sten is very good, the ASG MP40 is quite good and there are several different Thompsons. There are also some SRC MP40's and MP41's which have a poor reputation.
Webbing: Each side has their own webbing and it can be a bit confusing working out what bits you need and how to attach them to each other. British webbing is probably the most confusing but is by far the best webbing of the period.
Boots, gaiters, anklets and puttees. Boots for most are low ankle combat boots with either anklets, gaiters or puttees. This means that you can get away with more modern cheaper boots if you can hide the tops with the anklets, gaiters or puttees.
 
How do you find the gear?
Ebay is good, Whatpriceglory.com is good for uniforms, Soldier of fortune http://www.sofmilitary.co.uk/ is good for most stuff but tends to be expensive, http://www.epicmilitaria.com/ have a lot of stuff and if they have it, are probably cheaper that SOF.
Other army surplus shops, web sites or re-enactment events may also be worth a look.
 
Time to find a game!
The place to find a WW2 airsoft game or get more detailed info about anything WW2 airsoft related is ww2airsoft.org.uk
Before you go there, some words of advice: The forums there are not as friendly seeming as they are here. Try not to take offence when on the ww2 airsoft forums, people are trying to help by telling you how to be more correct in your gear etc. Unfortunately often this comes across as unfriendly, nit picking etc. Until the internet allows tone of voice in forums, just assume people are trying to be helpful.
 
British Gear
Starting with basic infantry, you will need a helmet, battledress, pattern37 webbing, anklets, boots.
The helmet you will need is a brodie mk2 helmet. There are cheap plastic versions which will do the job just fine.
These cost about £10 on ebay
Steel versions consist of a steel shell with a liner bolted to the top of the helmet and a chinstrap. The liners come in different sizes and are sized by your head circumference in inches. You can cover the helmet with hessian or net and add hessian scrim. Ideally it should be brown but it was not unknown for them to get repainted with whatever paint was available (ie. whatever colour vehicles were being painted).
Battledress comes in several varieties. I use denim battledress mainly due to a wool allergy. Denim battledress was used everywhere as overalls so you didn't get your wool uniform dirty. It was also used in warmer weather so is very well suited to battles in Italy, greece, crete etc. The important thing though is it is better for staying cool and is usually cheaper although you will rarely find any original stuff. Soldier of fortune sell it in a green colour and What price glory sell it in brown.
Then there is P37 wool battledress, this is the most popular choice. It is usually some shade of brown but as it was made all over the commonwealth to different specs it varies from pale brown to dark brown and even green. P37 battledress has pleated pockets and concealed buttons. P40 Battledress is similar but pockets are not pleated and buttons are exposed so that it can be made faster and cheaper (basically after Dunkirk, the priority was to re-equip as fast as possible). Reproduction wool battledress is quite expensive and it is often cheaper to buy an original jacket. Unfortunately original trousers are very rare. You can get away with post war P49 battledress but it varies in having an open collar with lapels.
Pattern 37 webbing is complicated so heres a diagram:

 
 
 
 
The bits you need most are a belt, a pair of cross braces and a pair of ammo pouches. Try to get Mk3 pouches with popper fastening. Pouches with the quick release will do the job but are really post war versions. MK1 and MK2 pouches are slightly smaller and will not fit the Sten or MP40 mags. The best way to buy webbing is to watch ebay for a full set, expect to pay £40-50. Webbing should have brass buckles not steel ideally.
If the colour of your webbing bits doesn't match, don't worry. You should ideally use Blanco, think of it as paint for webbing. Get modern liquid blanco and brush it on your webbing. Soldier of fortune sell it in different shades, mid ww2 is probably best. Brush it onto the webbing making sure to get it into the texture of the webbing. Only use it on the sides of the webbing that show. Original blanco would rub off so it was not used on the bits of webbing that are against uniforms. Anklets should also be blanco'd but gun slings and gas mask bags should not.
When you want to add to your webbing, get a water bottle. These are enamelled steel covered in felt. If you are lucky the inside will be in perfect condition, otherwise you may need to insert a plastic bag and secure it with an elastic band. The stopper is a wine cork on a screw. There are skeleton water bottle carriers (as in the diagram) or envelope versions. You will need to get the carrier damp, put the water bottle in it and then pack cardboard between the bottle and carrier to stretch it while it dries. This makes it a less tight fit so you can actually remove the bottle and put it back in more easily.
Packs. There are 2 sizes of pack (large and small). Large packs were used to carry everything in when on the move. Small packs are what you would carry supplies and equipment in during battle. For either pack you will need a pair of L straps, these attach to the top of the pack and go over your shoulders and hook onto the ammo pouches, the narrow webbing then goes under your arms and to the bottom of the pack. On the small pack the L straps then attach to buckles on the bottom of the pack. On the large pack, there are loops instead of buckles, the L strap goes through the loop and then you attach blanket straps to the L strap. The blanket straps basically extend the L strap so it can go over the front of the pack crossing over and attaching to buckles at the top of the pack. This allows additional items to be strapped to the outside of the pack (a blanket perhaps).
If you have both packs, you can use an additional cross brace as a shoulder strap for the small pack and wear it as a shoulder bag (I often do this when travelling to games for extra carrying capacity.
 
Anklets or gaiters
They look so simple don't they? Just wait until you have a pair and try to work out which way they go. Basically they go over the top of your boots adding ankle support and preventing anything getting into the top of your boots. The buckles should be on the outside of your legs with the straps facing backwards. So the top one in the pic is the left one and the dip in the middle would be on the inside of your leg facing downwards. They come in different sizes 3 and 4 are most common and it depends how big your legs are.
 
Boots should ideally be ammo boots
They look similar to modern ammo boots but DO NOT buy modern ammo boots. Modern ammo boots have been redesigned so they do not flex. You can get repro ammo boots, but they are expensive. Next best is DMS boots these are effectively correct but with a rubber sole. Remember though that you are wearing anklets so the top of the boots is hidden, you can therefore get away with higher leg boots such as S95 boots. Avoid boots with padding around the ankles as this will make it hard to wear anklets. If you want to go all out on boot correctness, leather laces are preferred.
 
Additional accessories you may be tempted by:
Gas mask bags come in 2 main types; Early war versions are the big bag mounted on your front, These are excellent as dump pouches and if you keep speedloaders and bb's in them you always have everything to hand to refill mags when things are quiet. Lightweight gas mask bags can be used as a shoulder bag for you lunch, or they can attach to the belt.
Entrenching tool or E-tool comes in 2 parts, the helve has a bayonet fitting so you can attach the spike bayonet from a No.4 Lee Enfield to probe for mines or cook sausages. The head fits inside the carrier and the helve goes on the outside and the carrier attaches to the tails of your cross braces. It adds a lot of weight, get one for show but don't wear it during the game.
Bayonet frog for holding a bayonet
Pistol Holsters, don't bother. Only officers had pistols so if you need a pistol keep it in a pocket, gas mask bag etc.
 
 
Okay so thats pretty much everything an infantryman could possibly want or need. Now you want to be something more elite? Airborne loadouts are quite common. All you need in addition to the above is a denison smock and an airborne helmet. The smock will cost about £100+ but you can save a bit of money by getting a belgian denison smock, which is similar. The helmet will cost about £80 but the same shell was used in tankers helmets until the 80's. If you buy a tankers helmet is is possible to modify it at a later date, with a new liner, chinstrap etc but it will cost just as much in total. Once you have the Denison you can do commandos by switching to a wooly hat, green beret or normal helmet. Similarly SAS is just a different beret.
 
If anyone wants to do an American or German guide, just post it in this thread and PM me so I can add it here

If you play at Spartan, they are Bio only and you will have to buy from them anyway.

Bloody Americans, the theft is in the UK, they are obviously investigating in the UK, why then is the reward in US$??

2nd AIF (2nd world war Aussie). Australian Imperial Force is an organisation created separately from the normal army (militia). The Australian Army was not allowed to operate outside Australian Territory by the constitution. The AIF was not the army so it was not bound by this rule but had to be entirely formed of volunteers.

1st 2 pics are early war. A mix of WW1 Australian gear and British gear. This is based upon pictures of Aussies during the early Libya campaigns

Late war (jungle). By now the Aussies are working with Americans so you see American influences such as the lace up gaiters and I am using US HBT trousers, which the Aussies are known to have managed to obtain.

Better Photo of Matilda:

2nd AIF (2nd world war Aussie). Australian Imperial Force is an organisation created separately from the normal army (militia). The Australian Army was not allowed to operate outside Australian Territory by the constitution. The AIF was not the army so it was not bound by this rule but had to be entirely formed of volunteers.

1st 2 pics are early war. A mix of WW1 Australian gear and British gear. This is based upon pictures of Aussies during the early Libya campaigns

Late war (jungle). By now the Aussies are working with Americans so you see American influences such as the lace up gaiters and I am using US HBT trousers, which the Aussies are known to have managed to obtain.

2nd AIF (2nd world war Aussie). Australian Imperial Force is an organisation created separately from the normal army (militia). The Australian Army was not allowed to operate outside Australian Territory by the constitution. The AIF was not the army so it was not bound by this rule but had to be entirely formed of volunteers.

1st 2 pics are early war. A mix of WW1 Australian gear and British gear. This is based upon pictures of Aussies during the early Libya campaigns

Late war (jungle). By now the Aussies are working with Americans so you see American influences such as the lace up gaiters and I am using US HBT trousers, which the Aussies are known to have managed to obtain.

2nd AIF (2nd world war Aussie). Australian Imperial Force is an organisation created separately from the normal army (militia). The Australian Army was not allowed to operate outside Australian Territory by the constitution. The AIF was not the army so it was not bound by this rule but had to be entirely formed of volunteers.

1st 2 pics are early war. A mix of WW1 Australian gear and British gear. This is based upon pictures of Aussies during the early Libya campaigns

Late war (jungle). By now the Aussies are working with Americans so you see American influences such as the lace up gaiters and I am using US HBT trousers, which the Aussies are known to have managed to obtain.

2nd AIF (2nd world war Aussie). Australian Imperial Force is an organisation created separately from the normal army (militia). The Australian Army was not allowed to operate outside Australian Territory by the constitution. The AIF was not the army so it was not bound by this rule but had to be entirely formed of volunteers.

1st 2 pics are early war. A mix of WW1 Australian gear and British gear. This is based upon pictures of Aussies during the early Libya campaigns

Late war (jungle). By now the Aussies are working with Americans so you see American influences such as the lace up gaiters and I am using US HBT trousers, which the Aussies are known to have managed to obtain.

Better Photo of Matilda:

Better Photo of Matilda:

2nd AIF (2nd world war Aussie). Australian Imperial Force is an organisation created separately from the normal army (militia). The Australian Army was not allowed to operate outside Australian Territory by the constitution. The AIF was not the army so it was not bound by this rule but had to be entirely formed of volunteers.

1st 2 pics are early war. A mix of WW1 Australian gear and British gear. This is based upon pictures of Aussies during the early Libya campaigns

Late war (jungle). By now the Aussies are working with Americans so you see American influences such as the lace up gaiters and I am using US HBT trousers, which the Aussies are known to have managed to obtain.

Better Photo of Matilda:

Better Photo of Matilda:

2nd AIF (2nd world war Aussie). Australian Imperial Force is an organisation created separately from the normal army (militia). The Australian Army was not allowed to operate outside Australian Territory by the constitution. The AIF was not the army so it was not bound by this rule but had to be entirely formed of volunteers.

1st 2 pics are early war. A mix of WW1 Australian gear and British gear. This is based upon pictures of Aussies during the early Libya campaigns

Late war (jungle). By now the Aussies are working with Americans so you see American influences such as the lace up gaiters and I am using US HBT trousers, which the Aussies are known to have managed to obtain.

Best airsoft Sniper rifle= Matilda. My Iron Airsoft SMLE. This is purely on the basis of appearance rather than everyone else's silly accuracy criteria though

It's time Matilda made an appearance on this thread:

 
I will produce some better photos when I can take them outside. Its hard to get the whole gun in and artificial light doesn't do her justice.

It's time Matilda made an appearance on this thread:

 
I will produce some better photos when I can take them outside. Its hard to get the whole gun in and artificial light doesn't do her justice.

It's time Matilda made an appearance on this thread:

 
I will produce some better photos when I can take them outside. Its hard to get the whole gun in and artificial light doesn't do her justice.

It's time Matilda made an appearance on this thread:

 
I will produce some better photos when I can take them outside. Its hard to get the whole gun in and artificial light doesn't do her justice.

Best airsoft Sniper rifle= Matilda. My Iron Airsoft SMLE. This is purely on the basis of appearance rather than everyone else's silly accuracy criteria though

http://www.surplusandoutdoors.com/shop/british-militaria/wwii-1940-s/new-wwii-wartime-and-1950-s-army-320119.html
 
The WW2 version is cheaper. They are usually hung on the outside of the backpack and make a great sound if you manage to hit them

Try a thicker oil. Aerosol ones are very thin in order to spray well, that means the oil has to be applied more often. Look for silicon gun oil in a dropper bottle. be warned, you may get some adult sites when googling it, as it has other uses apparently

It's no problem staying in semi auto. I have a Sten and a Lee Enfield. The Lee enfield is bolt action so, one step further than just semi, the Sten I use a gadget called a mosfet that allows me to program the max burst, so I often use it in semi only. It would probably be a good thing if players were forced to start with a semi only gun, it would teach them to use the sights and not spray and pray
I would go as far as to say that if I gave 2 beginners a semi auto only gun and a full auto and semi gun, the one locked to semi auto would probably end up doing better. Sometimes full auto is helpful but most people seem to use it instead of aiming.
The other reason to start with a sub machine gun is rifles are long and heavy, rifles made out of steel and wood are long and really heavy. You will have to carry it all day. A steel and wood sub machine gun is still a lot heavier than a plastic M4 but it's short so still easy to use when you're getting tired.

If you like old guns, then there are 2 types: Sub Machine guns and Rifles. Rifles are bolt action or semi auto. The MP44 is the 1st assault rifle so it is an exception. In airsoft, there is little real difference between a sub machine gun and an assault rifle.
If you are wanting a Garand but want to start with something easier to use, a sub machinegun means that you can get the outfit to go with the Garand and the submachinegun will fit in with that outfit.