Russe11

Couple of points: Yes I find WW2 weapons interesting and No I don't expect everyone to like them. This is why I suggested an SRC or JG G36 or a cyma AK before the sten.
A burst wizard Mosfet is a plug and play mosfet. It has 2 small Tamiya connectors and you plug it into the gun where the battery goes and you plug the battery into the mosfet. I would not consider that to be taxing for a beginner, although you can wire it into the gun as you would any other mosfet for additional functionality.
Yes a G&G combat machine is a good starter gun but so is a JG G36, a cyma AK, most MP5's... And yes the Sten is a suitable beginner gun if that person has stated that they play woodland (as opposed to CQB) and has said they would rather not have the same gun as everyone else. No-one is going to actually listen to that however, unless they see a Sten and think 'wow I want one', so I am safe in using it as a way to illustrate the range of guns available that are high quality, low budget weapons suitable for beginners. I just think we are too quick to think beginners gun=Combat machine without even reading the posts from the new players and asking questions. This is why I suggest that a new player gets a pic of their ideal gun, as I am sure we can between us match a gun pic to a suitable starter weapon and contribute to a bit more diversity at skirmish sites
 
From the original list that the OP made, I would suggest that the ICS L85 might be more of a 2nd gun rather than a beginners weapon. A TM G36 might be more money than you need to spend for a G36. TM guns are very high quality but there are some very decent G36's about for a lot less. CM16, yes a good choice for a beginner, all the previous answers about them cover it, I just think its the boring option.

If you want to carry the kitchen sink, you probably want a tactical vest rather than a chest rig. That way you will have molle space on your back for things like hydration pouches and radio pouches.
It sounds like your games are more milsim like if you need to carry that much? Why not get a small backpack with space for a hydration pouch, that will satisfy all your carrying needs and you can drop it off somewhere safe when you need more agility? I believe that NZ only permits semi auto guns, so you could get by with some of the mags in a backpack as long as you remember to swap out mags to your rig when you have the time.

The only reason for not getting a Sten that is worth considering is that you might not want a Sten, everything else can be sorted out. The simple addition of a burst wizard mosfet solved the indoor CQB site issue for me. I am really just trying to illustrate with the Sten that there are good options other than the Combat machine. The OP has made the above statement, which indicates to me that an M4 is really not the right choice for him. Yes you can customise an M4 but when I go to a normal skirmish, I tend to see 30-40 guys with M4's and maybe 2-3 AK's, L85's and G36's. I never really notice which rail system, torch, sight, peq box etc. is on the M4, its all just more of the same. I will notice an AK with nice wooden furniture or a G36 with anything other than the standard kit.
If you want a gun that is not the same as everyone else's, what you need to do is ignore all technical details, just look at the pictures and find a gun that you look at and it excites you. Then ask how to get one that is as good as possible within your budget.

Yes but I'd say it because with my Sten, I can pick people off at ranges where they can't even reach me with their combat machine M4's. I keep trying to tell u guys that the Sten is a really good gun, but no-one listens.
 
 
 

Australian Stens (Austens) were available in 2 tone. They also came with a tacticool front grip and even a folding stock. Now I just need to work out where to attach the tactical light!

One of the simplest sets of props I have seen is wooden disks for mines and a broom handle with a larger wooden disk for a mine detector. It is usually used such that you have 2 designated engineers who are the only ones allowed to enter a minefield and they have to hold the mine detector over each mine for a certain number of seconds to clear the minefield. This presents a challenge as the engineers are stuck out front in the open and thus require lots of covering fire.

If you look on taiwangun.com there are lots of different G36's with different looks. This will give you an idea of what you can do with a G36. I personally like the look of the ones with the longer railed fore-grip and suppressor that is partially inside the fore-grip. I would add a pic to show what I mean but am at work and this computer won't allow me.

The only reason to use a magwell converter is if you have an M4 as well and want to save on mags. Take it to a site and see how it chrono's. If it is in the 300-350 range and it manages to hit things at a reasonable range, then you're good to go. A mosfet can be a good idea with LiPo Batteries as the trigger contacts will last longer and some mosfets will prevent you using the battery up completely which is a bad thing with LiPo's.

I would suggest that unless you have a DMR or sniper, magnified sights are pointless. You are just limiting your field of view. Red dot sights are good for CQB but anywhere else, ironsights are the best bet (subject to how good they are on your gun).

5 meters of 4mm round leather cord in natural colour. This should make 2 pairs of boot laces.
Dubbin for my boots.
A 3ft by 2 ft Red ensign flag. Respawn points for a squad in ww2 airsoft are usually a flag in a backpack, you set the bag down and deploy the flag. Usually the flag is Stars and Stripes for the americans or the Union Flag for the Brits. The red ensign would be the correct flag for commonwealth troops.
Olive green Dylon dye. I plan to make my Aussie jacket a closer colour match to pictures I have seen of the real thing (I may also do a pair of trousers to match).

As said previously the law is very unclear on what is actually a defence but it is clear on when you need one. You need a defence (such as is provided by UKARA) to import or manufacture a RIF, you need to establish that the buyer has a defence in order to sell a RIF. You have therefore broken no rules by buying a RIF and there are no laws saying that you cannot own it. From here on in it's common sense, don't wave it around and keep it hidden so that no-one reports that you have a gun in university accommodation.

As said previously the law is very unclear on what is actually a defence but it is clear on when you need one. You need a defence (such as is provided by UKARA) to import or manufacture a RIF, you need to establish that the buyer has a defence in order to sell a RIF. You have therefore broken no rules by buying a RIF and there are no laws saying that you cannot own it. From here on in it's common sense, don't wave it around and keep it hidden so that no-one reports that you have a gun in university accommodation.

Firing range?

My Rifle is having a bit of an identity crisis, inspired by the TM Pro Hunter, And maybe a little from the new Jurassic World trailer
 
It started all black, then became a bit camo'd
 

 
And today has transformed to ...
 

 

 

 
I stripped all the Camo tape off the scope and sprayed it with some Plastikote Brilliant Metallic chrome effect paint. Its not chrome at all, its very flat, but still retains a metallic look. Unfortunately you cant lacquer it as it turns the paint a dull grey akin to primer.
The barrel and receiver of the gun was blinged up with some Aluminium tape. Its used by builders who need alloy tape for stuff. It only cost £5 for 10m and is pretty good. I got the idea from watching a Tested Video on Youtube, apparently Hollywood prop makers use it to make chrome things. A quick bit of brasso and it can polish up quite shiny, or a quick once over with wire wool gives it a matt stainless steel look.
Its just like tin foil, but thicker and sticky backed. just lay it in an smooth it out. It does wrinkle if not careful and my first attempt Its not perfect when you get close up, but it is non permanent and just peels off.
I'm working on a velcro veil made of a shemagh and scrim to cover it up for when i do want to play stealthily.
 
What do you think, I like it, but i'm not sure i'm going to keep it forever.

Persuade your Mum. I bet we can find some gear for both of you. WW2 airsoft is very much more friendly than normal airsoft. It's also educational. I bet your Mum would actually enjoy it, even if she doesn't like guns. The WW2 games are not about running around shooting people, they are about teamwork, dressing up and the social aspects with a bit of running around shooting people thrown in
The Aachen game already has 2 women signed up so she wouldn't be the only one there. It's also a way for her to see what airsoft is about, without forking out for guns etc. straight away.

I learned recently that Godfrey from Dad's army was actually a bit of a hero. He was badly injured with bayonet wounds to his left arm and groin, shrapel wounds to the legs and head injuries while serving on the Somme. This left him with a left hand he could not use and prone to blackouts. He was discharged on medical grounds from the army in 1916. In 1939 he enlisted again and went out with BEF as a conducting officer showing newspaper reporters around during the phoney war. He returned to England on the last destroyer to leave Boulogne. On his return he was discharged again due to medical reasons. Then he joined the Home Guard reaching the rank of Major.

I learned recently that Godfrey from Dad's army was actually a bit of a hero. He was badly injured with bayonet wounds to his left arm and groin, shrapel wounds to the legs and head injuries while serving on the Somme. This left him with a left hand he could not use and prone to blackouts. He was discharged on medical grounds from the army in 1916. In 1939 he enlisted again and went out with BEF as a conducting officer showing newspaper reporters around during the phoney war. He returned to England on the last destroyer to leave Boulogne. On his return he was discharged again due to medical reasons. Then he joined the Home Guard reaching the rank of Major.

I learned recently that Godfrey from Dad's army was actually a bit of a hero. He was badly injured with bayonet wounds to his left arm and groin, shrapel wounds to the legs and head injuries while serving on the Somme. This left him with a left hand he could not use and prone to blackouts. He was discharged on medical grounds from the army in 1916. In 1939 he enlisted again and went out with BEF as a conducting officer showing newspaper reporters around during the phoney war. He returned to England on the last destroyer to leave Boulogne. On his return he was discharged again due to medical reasons. Then he joined the Home Guard reaching the rank of Major.

Getting hit in certain areas hurts. None of these areas are the chest or back. Neck, Ears, face, head and hands are where it hurts. In terms of protection a helmet is more worthwhile than a vest as although a hat is usually enough protection from bb's, it doesn't prevent you smacking your head on branches, low beams etc.

Enter here: https://promosimple.com/ps/616b

Back when I used a tactical vest, I took the foam padding out after an embarrassing incident where I was tapped on the shoulder by a guy who explained he had been shooting me in the back for a while. Foam will protect you from hits, but it also makes it hard to feel the hits.

Enter here: https://promosimple.com/ps/616b

Enter here: https://promosimple.com/ps/616b

Getting hit in certain areas hurts. None of these areas are the chest or back. Neck, Ears, face, head and hands are where it hurts. In terms of protection a helmet is more worthwhile than a vest as although a hat is usually enough protection from bb's, it doesn't prevent you smacking your head on branches, low beams etc.

Getting hit in certain areas hurts. None of these areas are the chest or back. Neck, Ears, face, head and hands are where it hurts. In terms of protection a helmet is more worthwhile than a vest as although a hat is usually enough protection from bb's, it doesn't prevent you smacking your head on branches, low beams etc.

To be honest, a vest is not necessary for protection. Baggy clothing will stop bb's just as well. The places that bb's will do damage are the face, ears, neck and hands.
Do a search on amazon for childs tactical vest, it will bring up several options.