Ian_Gere

I tried some Bolle Cobras - not the same, but no doubt with the same anti-fog properties. The anti-fog works, but it does not stop liquid condensation accumulating on the interior of the lenses, which is a ball ache for sniping in a counter sniper role, since you're looking for camouflaged people in cover... I can only use them for about 30mins before the distortion makes me depressed. Mesh is the way forward for fog free, or ESS Turbofan goggles.

Just bought a Burst Wizard BW3 MOSFET - there's an offer on fb to get it for $39.99 posted instead of $49.99 which runs until 31/10/14 / you have to whore it onto 3 friends timelines. TBH I'm taking a punt because the cost is good and i was going to buy an airfet anyway, which would have cost me £20, but my experience with BW MOSFETs has led me to believe that it will be a pig to set up. However the geezer who makes 'em reckons these are simpler to use than previous types and he has offered to fully support my efforts to set it up... I'd tend to suggest that you wait until I've had a go so you can learn from my experience, but the offer ends soon and, at the very least, you will get a decent power handling FET with easy to use burst control as factory standard, and there is a reset function, so if the rest of it gets away from you (which IME it probably will), you can always use it simply and not feel ripped off... or start fiddling again from scratch

You will not be dissatisfied with Condor kit. It is well tough enough for airsoft - I mean shit, it is tough: you'd have to be wearing it through mud, sand, and shite for days on end to kill it. I have a drop leg dump pouch of theirs, which I wear with my sniper rig, so it gets a bit more abuse than average and it's fine - some threads have come loose from the edge of the velcro, but nothing a lighter couldn't sort out.

^^Funnily enough, since I ordered some LX components earlier, I have been thinking along the same lines... good luck!

BTW, once the TAG's have gone off, could you reuse the duds as a practice rounds?

^^Well that is majorly disappointing

We should club together for a hit man...

The thing with the Acog on the CX-4 is whoever did it is just a cock. Whoever mutilated that L85 needed a fair bit of skill... the dastardly fuck!

Don't be fooled - the internals of D-Boys AK's are not to be trusted. I wouldn't bother with most of their externals either, but they do make a steel AKS-74 which is a VFC clone, the same as LCT and CYMA CM.048 and above. It turns out cheaper to buy the gun, than to buy the steel body parts separately. Also buying the whole gun, allows the new internals to be fitted, before i have to pay for the new externals I want, so it will not be so expensive all at once.

HPA doesn't guarantee hop up stability. I bought a CYMA CM.048 - so far I have refinished the woodwork, replaced the pistol grip, replaced the hop up bucking, replaced all the wiring, replaced the small Tamiya connectors with Deans, and added a MOSFET. The spring was downgraded to a Guarder SP100 by taiwangun. It is good fun as it is and i am happy to skirmish it. It's good for 55m, snap shooting, man sized targets. But I will eventually replace most of the internals... My next new AK will be a D-Boys (Boyi) AKS-74, and I will replace all the internals, before i even skirmish it. I will also replace the handguards with those from a real steel AK-74, and wrap the stock with a real Soviet era rubber tourniquet. ...oh yeah, and that's an Element Butt Pad, and the straps are from a Soviet issue portupeya.

Soviet Tanker's kecks - £42 posted ~ kapterka on fleabay

Farkin'ell John!* Just bought the rest of the bits I need for the distraction device i'm building - £3.37 for the 555 IC's and capacitors and another £1.98 for the resistors (already have some IR LED's, a poxy motor, and an 18650 battery tray) - you can't actually buy the resistors or capacitors in 1's and it's only £1.49 for 5 IC's as opposed to 99p for 1 so I thought i may as well make 5 units), but still £5.35 for pence-worth of components... V^^VGrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! *I'm watching "Cockneys vs Zombies" so I can't help it... Oh yeah, and... KGB Border Guards Shoulder Patch - $8.00 posted ~ fleabay (for my berezka jacket that i bought t'other day)

Patrolbase are oos for Goblin shells, Russe11.

^^That's true, Loz, and let's be fair people, if the boot was on the other foot, if we were getting hundreds of orders with specific requirements written in Polish, we would have a procedure to translate them, right? And if people didn't stick to it, bugger 'em, right? TBH though, that checkbox to open the comments box is poor web design. And I must be lucky, because I have had good email comms with them...

And that, may friend, is the name of the game! Ahhh... the "spray and pray" approach. I used to do that, and it is a lot of fun. But games often go to stalemate that way; with each side behind cover, at sufficient range that they cannot get an accurate shot on target, because the BB's are out of energy, just dropping. Which is when a well tuned gun, is worth every €uro you have spent and more, because you can pop someone who only shows his gun and head, and do it quickly, which is important, because once they know you can shoot that far, they will not sit there looking at you so long! But to get that performance, you need very consistent power, which requires a better air-seal than any stock gun is supplied with, and very stable hop up, which few stock guns have, and even those which do have it, lose much of that stability in the barrel. Plus you need quick trigger response, which requires a gearbox cycle speed of at least 18/s, which is faster than most stock guns, unless they can use 11.1V LiPo batteries. Most stock gearboxes will wear out fairly quickly, if you use an 11.1V battery, and those which do not are actually not cycling that fast anyway - much of the battery energy is being wasted on high resistance circuits, and poor friction characteristics of gears, shims, piston, etc. so, although they are cycling faster than average, say 16/s, that is still not impressive, when you consider that a good rewire, MOSFET, grease, and shim job, will get that from an 8.4V NiMh battery...

Yeah, it's a real shame that Goblin Solo and Duo did not live up to how good they looked, but I expect you can still find shells for them in HK, China, or Japan.

There is no visible light from proper IR illuminators, either IR LED or an incandescent or xenon bulb behind a proper filter. I have a set of surplus Soviet PNV-57A tank driver's NV which I've equipped with a pouched 12V LA battery. It works fine in the back bedroom, but whether this will translate into success during a skirmish has yet to be seen. I wouldn't bother for dark CQB unless I was going to a known site, as part of a team, with a plan for how to use them in a predetermined tactic. For woodland night games however, I expect to find them very useful. It will take some practice using them however, because each eyepiece is focussed individually and they are a bit fishbowl-y anyway. Using the IR illuminator they come with turns total dark into monochrome green complete visibility though, so yeah, if i can step over things that go crunch in the night and my opposition cannot, I will have an advantage... The transformer does make a very quiet sound. This is not something the average adult, with their clothing and gear making a noise, nevermind their breath, would notice, but a yoot... quite possibly. I'm going with a distraction device, which I intend to make similarly subtle so as to confuse the issue, rather than something blatant which would alert the opposition to my presence if not my location. I am concerned about 'green glow face', but I believe it should be possible to attach a shield to the goggles to hide this if it turns out to be an issue - they do come with some 50mm-ish rubber circular eyepieces though, so it may well not be... Of course, despite the sub £100 price tag, 70's Soviet equipment is not for everybody, however if anyone states that Soviet NV X-rays your eyes, I will ban them from posting for a period consistent with the stupidity of the rest of their post. I'm only half joking...

Goblin shells are basically mini moscarts, which sounds like what you're describing.

^^If that's an HFC HG-106, Chock, I paid what turned into an extortionate amount to have the RIF version sent from UNCompany - basically to have something site legal to fit in my leather Makarov holster. The good news is that, for a shitty little gun, the performance is pretty reliable. I have only had 1 kill with it, but then again I have only drawn it 'in anger (er... mild frustration perhaps)' once, so not bad stats

The motor does not affect the FPS. A weak motor gives a poor trigger response time (the milliseconds between pulling the trigger and the gun firing). It may also result in a lower rate of fire, however once the motor is turning, it may run at an acceptable speed, so full-auto fire may not feel too slow. You must understand that when we (at least Unrustle_T_J and I), are comparing the performance of guns and/or specific parts of guns, we are comparing them to the performance, of custom upgraded and tuned guns, plus the best parts available at sensible prices, that we know of. The truth is that no 'off the shelf' guns, would get our stamp of 100% approval. But you may very well be happy with what you get out of the box. It is only after you upgrade a gun yourself, or pay a gun-tech to do it for you, or borrow a well set up gun, that you may feel disappointed with a stock gun. I feel very sure, that you would not be disappointed by the performance of one of the CYMA CM.048 range, but the externals are not as good as LCT, especially the woodwork. I have some doubts about the performance of LCT guns, out of the box, but I doubt you would be disappointed straight away - and the externals are definitely very nice. But hey, if you want a pretty gun, out of the box, you will have to pay more for it. But if you want pretty and good performance, you will have to upgrade something. The choice then, is whether to buy a cheap gun, and spend your money upgrading the externals and a few internal tweaks; or buy expensive and replace a few key internal parts. If you want the holy grail, great externals and great performance*, you will need to replace and/or tune almost all the internals, of almost any gun you buy, and you will also need to either start with a very nice looking gun, or spend a lot of money on replacement parts, and/or a lot of effort refinishing the externals you have. *60m head shots, first shot, raising the gun to your shoulder from muzzle down, with an AEG firing 0.25g BB's @310FPS Edit: and if you do spend €500 on a gun, and another €350 on upgrade parts/work, you will still get shot by some 14 year old with a €100 G36

What, in Poland? That well known island off the coast of China?

SSO Knife Scabbard for my Cold Steel Black Bear Trainer - 39PLN Splav Radio Pouch - 29PLN +21PLN shipping from Poland = £17.22 total + AA Battery tray and 2 push button latch switches for that weird distraction device i was on about a while ago (I've decided that I need to build it specifically for the purpose).

Yeah, the more i've been thinking about it, the more i'm tempted to get a long bergen as well. I've recently bought ladders so i can now access my flat's attic, which will inevitably mean more toys

They are both great looking guns - I could not choose between them! I was talking about the gas tube RIS - here. Unfortunately it is out of stock also but you can get it on eBay. fire-support.co.uk have 2 G-03 NV's in stock and 2 TX-63's also...