The_Lord_Poncho

I have had a similar issue with the MK23, but only when in the game area - e.g. bending down and somehow pressing the hammer in when it's holstered. It should never be an issue for you in the safe area, as your magazine should always be removed from the pistol anyhow. I use a DTD holster for the MK23 when playing which effectively blocks the trigger, so for me i simply have got into a discipline of cocking the hammer back before a game starts+ after using the pistol during a game.

I'm not sure it 100% translates to this situation, but I read somewhere that at room temperature, normal green gas is around 120-130PSI. So on any GBB running on an HPA adapter, I treat this as the maximum PSI that i am prepared to go to without putting undue stress on the internals.

If you are after extracting maximum performance from a pistol, the conventional wisdom is the avoid using gases that contain a silicone lubricant mixed in. Theory being that the lubricant gets blown by the action onto the hop rubber, reducing the hop effect or providing inconsistency. The downside is that the various orings and seals in the magazines and gun itself like some silicone on them to keep them sealing nicely. This explains the Honourable Puceflange's post above where he mentioned the use of UltraAir (a silicone free airsoft gas) with the occasional use of a 'green' gas with added silicon to lubricate the seals. If your pistol is reserved only for close up engagements, then you aren’t going to notice much of a difference if you were to use a silicon containing gas however - so your choice whether the extra (potential) maintenance hassle is worth it. Personally I run without any silicon mixed into my gas, but that's more me just being tight (I use a plumbers bottles of pure Propane in conjunction with an adapter). I add a few drops of silicone every now and then to the pistols blow back unit, and whenever one of the mags starts leaking (pretty rare to be honest) and tightening the baseplate or valves doesn't do the trick; depending where the leak is, I either remove the base plate and use silicone grease around its big oring/gasket before re-sealing, or work some silicone oil into the internals of the valves. It's all dead easy, and dead quick to do - like 5 mins max...

Whereabouts did you get the carpet from? I'm quite interested in its backstory

I'd second the recommendation for the AAP - they just work, and work rather well. They are very cheap, but will out perform pistols three times as expensive, and a plethora of after market parts for them means you can bling them out to your hearts desire if you ever feel the urge to splash the cash. If they really aren’t your thing, then WE Glock 17s and Glock 19s are reasonably well regarded (I have a couple, and they have been great - I confess to not knowing much about the G23you mention). As said, WE's do seem to be hit or miss sometimes, but their Glocks generally appear to have a good reputation.

A number of options, for all budgets.... Note that unless you are very lucky, some trial and error is required for most in order to manoeuvre the gearbox about to get a good nozzle alignment with your hop unit (plenty of online guides how to do this). Personally I'm a huge fan of Mancraft - they are a great company to deal with, and if my experience is universally true, have amazing aftersales. The Mancraft PDIK will fit inside your existing gearbox (or you can buy them that come within Mancrafts own fancy gearbox), and is mechanical only - i.e. you don't need to worry about batteries and fancy electronics. this does mean it is semi auto only, but is spot on for a DMR type set up. https://shop-mancraft.com/en/pdik-hpa-conv-kits-for-aeg-rifles/195-539-mancraft-pdik-v2-gen3-hpa-engine.html#/154-gearbox_model-v2_with_gearbox_shell There are lots of other options for systems that can be retrofitted to a V2 gearbox - e.g. Wolverine and Polarstar are established brands in the market, and provide full auto capability. If you are happy to go out on a bit of a limb with a new 'drop in' and budget offering (which because its new, doesn't have much feedback yet), Ares have just brought their HPA gearbox to the market too. e.g. https://highpressureairsoft.co.uk/collections/ares-engines/products/ares-conversion-v2-hpa-gearbox-set-tm-ares-amoeba-compatible . They are built around the TM standard V2 gearbox design, so, although Krytac can be a little quirky, I might suspect they would fit without too much drama. If you go down this route with the Ares box, please report back on your findings!

Hmm - I've had something on 'pre-order' since November. Time to get concerned i think!

I can't recall whether DE (or at least your model) uses a hop arm with a captive nub. If you are getting no hop really at all, there may be a possibility that, in the process of changing the bucking, a non captive nub had dropped out of the hop chamber entirely, and become lost. Possibly able to be checked by removing the hop chamber, holding it upside down, and applying hop to see if the nub moves into view. If it is missing, and the hop arm really can't be removed, then you might be lucky enough to be able to place the nub back into position with the hop unit upside down, and hop fully off - and slide the nub into position via the main body. Or you could install the original bucking back in assuming you haven’t damaged it when you removed it, check the range, to verify that loss of the nub isn't the issue Of course, the other possibility is that the process of changing the bucking, and maybe the bucking itself, has messed with your air seal - i.e. the nozzle from your gearbox isn't playing nicely with the lips of your bucking, and you are losing a lot of air (and therefore power) this way. When you are sure the gun is unloaded, turn it upside down and without a magazine in place, place a small bit of tissue over the bb feed tube part of your hop unit. If the tissue is dramatically blown about (and not just from vibration) when you fire the rifle, that would start to indicate that this is the case. You can either try other buckings (not all buckings are compatible with all hop units/nozzle lengths), or try a cheap ZCI hop unit in the gun which appear reasonably universally adequate. The 4uantum buckings seem reasonably well regarded, so they should be doing the business if there isn't a compatibility issue (or you haven’t lost the nub!)

There is rather a lot to unpack here! I read that the DT4 is a double barrel M4, with a single gearbox but containing two separate compression systems. Presumably that therefore means that your poor motor is having to pull back two of your M115 springs with each cycle. That's brutal punishment for the motor, and it's no wonder that it is getting warm. You mention that it is doing 400fps - what weight BB are you using? On anything usual - e.g. a 0.20g bb and up, 400FPS will be over any UK site power limit, and more importantly, the UK legal limit for something that is capable of full auto - in its present set up, it is possible that your gun is classed as an illegal firearm. I'd recommend removing the M115 springs and popping in something around an M90 (or possibly an M95) - which, given the inner barrel length is quoted at 290mm, would likely give you powers within UK site limits, and give your motor an easier time. It will still heat up though, albeit to a lesser extent. The battery that you are using - you say its a big one from an RC car) hopefully that is no higher than 11.1v, if it is, you will be stressing the electrical system, and risks destroying your mosfet.

Might this be an alternative option for you (presuming that the nov 249s aren’t entirely proprietary)? https://eu.novritsch.com/product/ssr249-hop-up-unit/?_gl=1*z6cbzu*_up*MQ..*_ga*MjMxMjI5Mzc4LjE3Mzc0MDcxMzA.*_ga_K9359NZ65D*MTczNzQwNzEyOS4xLjEuMTczNzQwNzE0MS4wLjAuMTU4NjkyMjkxOA..*_ga_B99L79801L*MTczNzQwNzEyOS4xLjEuMTczNzQwNzE0MS4wLjAuMA..

If you have installed a like for like replacement G&G green bucking, then that rules that one out. But in my view the fact that the mags are no longer locking in place indicates that the failure to feed is unlikely to be down to the bucking lips being e.g. longer, but rather that the hop unit isn't sitting where it was previously - which you have probably worked out already. I presume that you are confident that the spring that was either around the inner barrel in front of the hop unit or the little bendy spring that is attached to the front top part of the hop unit were reinstalled (I’m not sure which design your hop unit has, but I presume that it is one of those two options)? This keeps the hop unit pushed back onto the front face of the gear box. The upper receiver is fully located as far back as it should be on the lower receiver, and the front retaining pin was able to be inserted with the similar level of friction as when it was first removed? You didn't take the opportunity to do a few wraps of tape around the inner barrel, which if overdone might somehow be preventing the inner barrel and hop unit sitting where they previously were inside the outer barrel? If it's none of those, then I’m out of ideas!

This rather nice 1911 from 18Airsoft. It's an E&C, nice trades, seems to work well - and only £52 (plus a minimum of about £20 for postage I seem to remember). Grips are Ivory effect G10 from Aliexpress for about £8 posted - only a small amount of dremmeling required to their undersides to achieve a perfect fit.

I couldn't agree more. If nothing else, it might help shake up the market a little and bring out a few more keener priced offerings from other manufacturers.

Yep, I've never had an issue with Aliexpress either. Plenty also from 18airsoft, MLE Mart, Airsoft Tiger that also arrived without additional charges.

I'm not sure if there is an open invite to add other items to this thread, but....to add to the list (and apologies, because it is Ares) - the new Ares HPA drop in gearbox could potentially be a bit of a game changer. Single and select fire versions available, supposedly works well even at very low pressures, and only £140 posted from HK (or £199 from the UK). We'll see if it turns out to be any good, but looks promising.

I have the S&T no.4 mk1. Points to note: The bodywork is quite nice - I’ve not felt a compelling urge to refinish/stain the wood (but I probably will at some point for the fun of it) Mine had a horrible bolt pull at first (they all have this) - easily rectified with a bit of good lube, an aliexpress thrust bearing on the spring guide, and a cut down L96 spring (M130 or M150 flavours depending on whether you want a MED or not). The back of my bolt was wobbly out of the box (a two minute fix) Out of the box, the trigger box on mine wasn't attached to the receiver -at all. all four screws were entirely missing! But these things are super easy to take apart and it was quick to sort - plenty of video guides about They use a bb feed ramp+ a loading plate/fin on the cylinder to guide a bb from the magazine. It seems luck of the draw from what I can read, but the C clip holding my loading fin on keeps popping off. The accepted mod is to make (or buy) a C clip made from an AEG brass barrel, and optionally fit an airsoft pro metal feeding fin intended for the TM L96 AWS, and slightly filed down to fit. The both the front and rear sights are non adjustable (unless you count the rear flip up 'volley sight' as 'adjustable' - but that is not a problem really They take VSR cut barrels and VSR/GBB hop rubbers The range and accuracy is outstanding, even if you run it at 1.1j In summary - lovely rifle, but unless you get super lucky, be prepared to spend a few hours doing some (easy) work to it in order to get it perfectly ready for a skirmish. The jury is out as to whether the Vector Optics No.4 scope mount will fit it - I suspect that it would though - which together with the readily available stock cheek pieces would allow for a passable No.4 T sniper version to be created.

After many hundreds of chinese purchases over the past few years, i got stung for VAT (and a small handling charge) for the first time this month. The value of the package was about £135. The value declared by the sender of the package on the sticker on the outside was £50!

Personally I'm a member of the peg board posse. Sounds like we need to hold an annual 'Skadis Invitational' skirmish- Grid Wall Gang vs Peg Board Posse to settle this once and for all!

I've a Cyma 028 with wood effect plastic furniture. The range and accuracy are obscene (mine has a traditional style Guarder hop rubber and an old school H nub), and it's very light. The grey body is an acquired taste, but a can of matt black spray paint sorts that out. I might be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that the gun can be lightened even more by easily removing a weight that usually sits inside the (fake) gas tube.

If it assists to widen your search, I use double M4 mag pouches with a full flap (i.e . pouches that fit 2x m4 mags each) which fit a single M14 magazine well.

It's not just you - today I've found it painfully slow (using firefox). I'm also unable to open various links/forums etc in new tabs.

I've mostly found my springs settle down a little, and I lose up to 15fps (assuming a 0.2g), usually takes a month or so. Presuming though that you haven’t got an enormous inner barrel, and that you intend to use something heavier than the 0.2s that you Chrono'd with, one might think that when the hop is set for heavier BBs, you might scrub off the rather small amount of power that you need to lose? Using it on auto, and stopping mid cycle may leave the spring cocked back under tension, which if left that way for a few days would likely also reduce its power somewhat.

Yes, I do 50% hpa, and 50% aeg- I enjoy both. The Chinese regulator and line I got was a solution to different HPA guns shooting at wildly different power levels despite the same regulator setting. As I like to cycle through different guns each game, it was becoming a pain to re-chrono before each game, so having two sets of everything solved that

I've got both. The Chinese version is almost the same, but is adjusted by an Allen key rather than the two pronged key thingy, and doesn't seem to refresh as fast (fine for me as all my hpa stuff is semi only). Aside from that, the Chinese version functions well, as does the line (albeit I didn't buy them as a bundle) from memory I only paid circa 20 for the regulator from AliExpress a few months ago- it was worth it at that cost.

In addition to the above, perhaps double check that the hop unit is hard back against the gearbox too. I'm unfamiliar with the SVD, but presuming its the same rough idea as many other designs, adding a few o-rings onto the inner barrel at the front of the hop unit can work to push it back nice and snug. You mention that some shots are veering off - if you are using your original inner barrel it is possible that the MR Hop and the Omega combo are too big for the window cut into the barrel, and you may be getting irregular pressure/hop as a result.