The_Lord_Poncho

Well, you have mad 3d printing skills - could you design up a hpa mag adapter similar to some of the airtac ones-using the we mag feed lips, valve etc, but taking eg. the stubby m16 vn mags?

Perhaps a very small air bottle hidden sideways on inside the box mag (with possibly some extra room created by using a short VN style tapped GBB mag) ? Or some way to rig an 88g co2 to the HPA tap on the mag?

Same applies to you then as my post above! With the additional advice of thinking carefully if you are tempted by 'Tactical Warfare' - the Croydon airsoft site. Very much suffers from mixed reviews - have a search on the forum to see why....

I think there are a couple of thoughts here - firstly, as you mention, inner barrel length is generally regarded as not being overly critical - up to a point. I believe that people have established that circa 300mm or so is about optimal in order to stabilise the bounce of the BB as it moves along the top of the inner barrel post hop unit. But the other consideration is the volume of your inner barrel - I'm not sure if that is usually an issue with HPA, nor indeed GBB (but it very much is for AEGs). However you mention that you have ordered an HPA 'kit' - some of the mechanical only HPA engines - such as the Mancraft PDIK require a minimum PSI in order to operate effectively - you might find that with a very long inner barrel, that minimum PSI would end up pushing you over your sites Joules limit for DMRs. I believe they have a table on their website indicating the power vs different barrel lengths - might be worth a read. Generally, with outer barrels, as long as it is sufficient to cover your inner barrel, you can choose whatever length you like the look of.

This seems an option, thanks! I'd not come across them before. Still a touch on the pricy side, but might be a go'er. I am rather wedded to the 'proper' external knee pad sections, as my knees are made of cheese these days. I had a look on eBay for the genuine crye stuff, but sadly it's multicam or nothing (I should have mentioned that I generally go for anything but). Yes, years ago I actually went to the trouble of unpicking the knee pad sections of some arktis trousers and restitching them lower onto the leg. The joys of life before kids when I had such time to burn!

Oh this could be very interesting! If nothing else, to benchmark the real world accuracy of the average airsoft rif. I, and I suspect many others, are possibly guilty for the Internet, you tube, and airsoft mate driven nonsense of "this gun here, and indeed all my guns, shoot like absolute lasers" nonsense. With the result of coming from such interactions feeling a little inadequate in terms of teching skills or our armouries capabilities.

All in the title really! I've struggled for years to find a source of adequate quality Crye style trousers that have a sufficiently long length inner seam - for around £65 or less. Most clones seem to only come with regular, and occasionally short length legs. Specifically I'm after a 36 inch waist, 34 inch inner leg. I'm a little fed up with ordering chinese XXXXL, and then having to get out the sewing machine to bring in the waist/seat, and lengthen the lower leg hem! I did find that Bulldog used to do them when UKMC Pro was open, but with the demise of that shop, my source has dried up, and my current bulldog combats are on their last legs.... Anyone have any pointers?

I appreciate that - I suppose that I have never thought the buckings would be contaminated from new.

It depends upon the sites that you play at. At the sites I frequent, there is no rule that states that a DMR must have a real world equivalent rifle that is employed in that type of role. But some sites do make this demand - e.g. that (with a couple of exceptions such as the Mk12 SPR), the rifle model is based upon a calbre larger than 5.56. Other than that - the standard rule is that full auto capability is deactivated.

Well, I've never done this - does it make a difference? Just to get any factory residue - silicone etc off it?

When i played (probably circa two months ago now - i lose track of time) at Dogtag, it was the same - probably went down to 10-15 per team after lunch. But to be honest, I preferred that. I tend to feel the same at Driver Wood too, my other local site - the lower number sessions seem to me at least to open up additional latitude for low cunning, or bold aggression - without such attempts being thwarted 99% of the time by a complete saturation of the playing area with enemy players.

Catch the train from Clapham Junction to Three Bridges, and there are a few good woodland sites within a very short taxi ride. As a rental player, my instinct says that, of those, you would have a better time at Driver Wood- where the terrain is a bit more of a leveller when you have the rental kit than at Dogtag.

Might as well, yes

In comparison to the above, just a rather modest real steel XM177/Car 15 slim handguard from Brownells as I'm fed up with the airsoft version that I previously slapped on the Cyma being really flexy and creaky. For something that you are in contact with all the time, it really detracted from the feel of the rif, and for £25 posted, I thought I couldn't go wrong. Might need to remove the internal heat shield to fit in the batteries though!

They don't have to be bad - I grew up on single shot spring BB guns! Back in the day through, you could only really buy Tokyo Marui versions, and you had to build them up from a kit. As you have only had it two days, perhaps return it and try and get your money back. If you can't be bothered/don't wish to do that, then from your description, all that can really be concluded is that the top of the magazine is too high or otherwise somehow catching upon/impeding the mechanism within the slide as its pulled back. Perhaps try racking the pistol without the magazine fully inserted - maybe not inserted fully home by only a mm or so. If they seems to work, then you can look at somehow filing down the inside of the magazine catch, or the slot on the mag that it locks onto so that the mag permanently sits a ;little lower.

I'm thinking that is only possible if the bearing is physically reversed? It's a while since I changed any bearings in a gearbox, but from memory they are 'lipped' so can't push through the holes in the gearbox casing like that, unless you've inserted it from the wrong side of the shell (or the holes in the gearbox case are massively enlarged/rounded off from a previous seized bearing).

Locally, its about £25 rental, vs £15 walk on - so your three games to get UKARA would only cost you an extra £30. If your local sites are much more expensive than that, why not just buy a cheap two tone, and sell it on once you get your UKARA?

Another possibly obvious question - noting that the gun contains a mosfet, there may well be a drain on the battery when it is connected. Are you leaving the battery in it, and connected? If you have done that, even for a few days, it is possible that you have drained the lipo to a voltage that has caused damage to the battery - i.e. it won't really take charge any more. When you buy a replacement battery, as per the suggestions above (i have found Turnigy batteries, purchased from Hobbyking good and super cheap), ensure that you never store the battery connected, and ideally store the battery at a 2/3rds charge (a so called 'storage charge' if you aren't using it for a month or so,

Decided to roll out the AAP (TTI) carbine for the first game at Driver Wood on Saturday - now sporting a 310mm new maple leaf inner barrel, and running on mini MP5 mags via an Airtac mag adapter. Accuracy and range were now pretty good on 0.36 BBs - with the HPA reg set on circa 110PSI/1.8j. The odd flyer, but got some good hits, and the clack clack of the bolt+ slight feedback was great fun. Second game I switched to the Noveritsch SSX303. I've never been that happy with the accuracy from it, but I'd recently swapped in a new silicone MR hop bucking, and a mini TDC screw+ CNC hop arm from Tridos - and, wow, what a difference they have made! Again, running an airtac adapter (this time taking 30rd shotgun shells), the gun was getting incredible range on 1.8j, good accuracy, and is super quiet. At the start of the second game I legged it , and spent the first ten minutes of the game taking out the their team as they advanced past the side of me - not one of them had a clue where they had been shot from, enabling me to to achieve the same results in the second wave until I got bored and moved off. The Driver Wood game play has become so much better now they have moved to roving spawns and ditched the 'medic' arm bands - marshals seem to be able to equalise game play a little by moving the spawns from very dominant teams back a little further to the rear, game play is more fluid around the playing area, and hit taking seems to have dramatically improved - no doubt as there is no longer a 5 min trudge back to spawn.

I played at Driver Wood on Saturday morning - and the orange arm bands are no more! Looks like someone was listening..... After the briefing, out came a big box of much more subdued purple arm bands. Now to see if any of the regulars who always stand on the 'green team' side of the briefing area prior to the bands being given out start to migrate across to other side of the safe area!

A bit of grease in the cylinder too whilst you have it apart! The anti reversal latch is a right pain, and to a slightly lesser extent, the trigger (at least for me). Both will frequently pop out when you try to put the two halves of the shell back together.

In that price bracket/between the two you are considering, go with the WE. Many WE products get mixed reviews, but the one thing that most people can agree on is that their Glocks are pretty good. I have a Gen 5 Glock 19 from them, and a Gen 3 Glock 17 - both have been great. Prices can vary significantly on these, so do shop around. Also, the WE Glock mags are generally pretty well regarded, and can be had from overseas sellers (e.g. Hong Kong based) a little cheaper than from the UK if you are prepared to wait a few weeks for them to turn up. I've never had a Raven pistol, but from what I read, they are a bit of a budget gun, and the quality/QC is variable.

Agreed that his prices are bonkers at times (that said, I put an order in a year or so back for a few non overpriced items, and the service/comms were very good). I don't particularly have a moral judgment on his pricing though - people don't need to buy anything from him - we just live in a capitalist world!

The other thing to be mindful of is of course the condition of your battery. An old, or poorly made battery that has been left to drain below it's lowest recommended voltage previously will not be holding the capacity it says on the sticker..... I have bought a few aliexpress batteries as I'm a sucker for such things, and had very mixed results. But if the battery gives you good performance in other guns, or swapping in a similar capacity battery into the mp5 gives the same results, then might be the gun. I tend to swap my 1300mah batteries out after each 1hr game in most of my guns that use them, whether they run down or not - that's probably anything from 300 to 700 shots for me.

To be fair, 450mAh is tiny - which gun was this in? I can happily (well, reasonably happily - it's a squeeze) get a 2200 7.4v nunchuck battery in the front handguard of my Cyma MP5 - which looking at your list might have the tightest battery space of your current guns..?