The_Lord_Poncho

I successfully received an AR receiver, an AR style outer barrel with hand guard/flash hider fitted, a buffer tube, and a grip all in the same package from Hong Kong, but each item was separate - i.e, it wasn't assembled into a RIF. That one got through without UKARA on the outside of the package - but i was nervous! I'm not sure if the toxicant kit is sent assembled or not?

I'm not familiar with that AEG, but from the pictures available, i looks like your rear sling mount (that hole in the rear stock near the hinge) is for a QD ('quick detach') type sling mount - e.g. one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191416931239?itmmeta=01HRS006PWDK24CSJ6RNEVRYRK&hash=item2c915693a7:g:~HAAAMXQlgtS78w6&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwJCTAfVE4%2BW0bpBhE4aIa%2BPp4TsNVv0fdi03cAE9IuIa6rQAlyJAyx%2BauRN3LiGg8g%2Fefh%2Bx8mkUZ5iY3IkQgk%2FwaqUocXjkz%2FaN%2BrgdK63F6PeslH9QzlCgwSt%2BZcGeVRX7KBwUcLJaOR5se2TGTqGzPKsXSc%2FVi80Zcb0Mx7%2BWWAvv6HtyxDpMRLfRkVIp63hjfb1jpDUWzveZ64zIEbVlvPOWyJTgsxu30OjoDvr7TNLa%2B3bokCWO%2BHoFsbN99A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9zrgKDGYw The mount on the front is a little odd - looking like it sticks out in front of the front sight rather than to the left like a usual AK. I might be tempted to use paracord to form a little loop through it, that would then be more forgiving an angle to clip the front of your sling into it - e.g. using an HK style clip: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285181190667?itmmeta=01HRS0A5Q5AV2HS9VK1YBZQZ8Z&hash=item42661fa20b:g:hLgAAOSwci9j~hlF&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwDRlQlHXZKHC93UCmme84kgQjGrfZL1fNuPAyS2HaWn2L8mXQ8Mnp%2Fwn5x3%2FR2JgHGpGOlfVQdCUjGqxMWzNciQiMuKBYZt25rO06JoZ7Vk4IbjlJesHKdt1DLS2mjbfx%2BcfbOnjdG7gc1%2F2WyYGeutRcJElNvmzaMzVDzfmEfOC%2FRN5nla360%2BftIKf%2BUgzSDmiGZLVETnIr0hYFW0%2BLMXBthdxz3L%2FlFOui3qTg2ouDQsb950lNdo18V4jssV9nA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR97bqKDGYw A neat set of knots you could try for the paracord loop would be a double fishermans bend - youtube will be your friend - ultra secure, and very tidy. edited - as I forgot to add that with those two attachment points sorted out, you could then pretty much use any two point sling you liked. I've made all of my slings out of 25mm webbing tape, a combination of the above attachment points, and triglide buckles that allow be to fix and remove the attachment points for use on other AEGs. I've also made adjustable two point slings, again you tube will assist. Making slings is super easy, and costs pennies - especially if you cut all the handy plastic buckles off old rucksacks before you bin the rest of the bag!

Welcome along. I'm not that far from you. I suspect that my regular sites will become yours!

I suspect that the OP would be very unlucky if the retailer were ever to know that a few bits have been out and then popped back in of course (apart from via this thread!) - unless they haven't been put back in correctly. I'd be inclined myself to watch a few videos, check i had reassembled correctly, and if it still doesn't work, sending it back to the retailer as it would be faulty - and morally, that fault unlikely to be anything to do with temporarily removing a few elements that are designed to be modular/replaceable...

I have two Well MB01 (L96) (actually one is an MB08, but that's just a different stock design - same working parts). One shot acceptably well of of the box, and could actually be fielded as a vaguely competitive rifle. The other, out of the box, was utterly put in the shade by every one of my GBB pistols, and required a few hundred spending on it to get it very good. So - at that price range, pure luck of the draw! That said, nothing ventured, nothing gained, and if it turns out it needs updgrading, that's pretty fun. For plinking, you still want something relatively accurate, otherwise there isn't any real point to it. I'd venture that, given the inherent accuracies of even the most amazing airsoft platform, you would have more plinking fun with the fast fire capabilities of a GBB or AEG, at closer range, and focusing more on speed etc.

Good thread - watching this with interest!

A great day yesterday at Dog Tag. I took a whole load of rentals there in the morning - who seemed to have a good laugh despite the rental G36's having pretty dodgy performance (the site really does favour guns that can land hits at long range, and the effective range of the rental guns seemed pretty poor to be honest). We played a few fields that I hadn't played on before (the last time I visited the site was a good few years ago now) - possibly due to the waterlogging issues that @Impulse mentioned in his post earlier. During the morning fall back games (attackers have unlimited spawns, defenders only get one life per field and have to fall back to the next once taken out) once again some confusion over people shooting across boundaries from the subsequent fields that weren't yet in play occurred - both the field boundary marking, and the briefing/direction that marshals gave could possibly have been improved upon. No major issue though, and hit taking was good from what I saw. The rental masks that the site issued out to my companions incorporated mesh for the goggle section - which, despite some peoples misgivings, I think makes a lot of sense for a rental. The likelihood of a BB shattering on mesh, and fragments penetrating with enough retained velocity to do harm would seem an awful lot lower than the likelihood of a frustrated kid lifting his rental mask mid game to wipe the fogging out. In the afternoon, the numbers dropped right down to mainly regulars (plus me!) and no rentals at all - 11 per side. And, along with the sun being out for the first time in forever, it was one of the most enjoyable aisofting sessions I've had in a very long time. Game play was great, the games active, and people were talkative and sociable - exactly how airsofting should be. And the old faithful Krytac that I ran post lunch was giving me more BB's on target than the SR25 that was providing my arms a workout in the morning.

Back in the days of black and white when I wore british 58 pattern webbing, the rear Kidney Pouches suffered from the same issue. The solution then was to put everything in a plastic tub, and then inside the pouches. I'd imagine a more up to date solution would be to use a small canoe sack/stuff sack to keep it all together, and reduce the likelihood of bits falling out.

I've been tempted by a Lee Enfield for a while. Hopefully this has ironed out the minor kinks that existed with the original - which I understand was somewhat better regarded than the Ares, despite being cheaper? And if so, once I've been able to see a few reviews I might have to cave in! The weathered examples of the original model earlier in this thread look fantastic, and I suspect that's a rather fun process to undertake.

Llooks quite tasty that....

Awesome, well that is reassuring! Fairly standard O-ring sizes? Ignore - i've just alighted upon the following image that shows the O-ring sizes.

I’ve recently picked up a second hand Mancraft PDIK V2 gen2, and I’ve built it into a very nice Knights SR15 kit (shout to 18airsoft for the parts- very rapidly becoming my favourite overseas retailer- with this latest order taking slightly over one week to drop through the door). Problem is, when the regulator is turned up to any practically useable pressure, the Mancraft has an audible air leak from its main body. I suspect that I need to bite the bullet and strip the thing apart and replace the seals. Has anyone done this before? Is it a particularly involved/tricky task? And any tips? There seems to be a bit of a lack of the usual Youtube 'how to' videos on this particular bit of kit!

As an observation, that is quite a restrictive DMR rule at that particular site. Only 1.48j/400FPS AND a 30m MED is fairly punitive, and I'm not sure the extra few meters range that could be achieved with the additional circa .3J would in any way outweigh the disadvantage of a 30m MED. As a comparison, I'm used to playing at a site whose DMR rules are 1.88J (equivalent of 450fps on a 0.2g BB), and has a MED of 25m. The additional power allowable gives you a more meaningful edge over the typical AEG, and the slightly lower MED gives you less occasions when you need to switch to a sidearm, and more of a fighting chance to be within the useful range of your side arm when you do have to switch. Honestly, with the DMR rules at your site as they are, it would seem better to focus on squeezing all possible performance out of the gun whilst remaining below the standard 1.13J limit in my view. edit: to add, i would expect that the measures which you have listed would do a very good job of extracting maximum performance out of the rig, at whatever power level you decide upon, but i will defer to the opinions of others who have better knowledge of this particular platform.

I've reflected on whether to contribute to an old thread, but decided i might as well - as people could alight here when searching for info! For large hands, I've had good success with the SPR type grips - even those cheaply available from e.g. 'army force' - looks and works superb on the SR25, and a similar grip about to be fitted to my SR15. The palm swell and thumb shelf are just so comfortable, and it has a very 'DMR' look about it. Only downsides being that SPR grips definitely can only be used right handed, and that the right side of the top of the grip extends high up the receiver and therefore will likely foul an ambidextrous safety. However, I actually managed to turn this latter point into a positive attribute for the SR25 - with a little modification with a dremel, the grip acts as a physical stop to the selector being moved past semi - thus being one of the two reversible methods that I have used to semi lock the SR25 for DMR use.

Good read! I started off at Dogtag a few years back but haven't been there for at least two years - Driver Wood is my regular site - it's closer to my home, and I just enjoy the way it is run - much tighter and a little more professional. But....I am heading back to Dogtag in a fortnights time - taking a load a scouts as its a little cheaper for a rental package, and just a bit easier all round for a group to book. It will be interesting to see how it compares to Driver Wood now that I'm a bit more experienced in the game (and will no longer be outranged by everyone without a rental G36)- must admit that I am looking forward to a little change in scenery!

It's entirely plausible that the variable here was the marshal/ the marshals mood when you chrono'd rather than the gun shooting at different power levels between the visits. If you were only just over this time, they may have let you have the benefit of the doubt on your previous visit? Other possibility is that the hop had loosened off (MP5 hops are susceptible to this - I had to sort my Cyma with a small rubber o-ring between the tightening screw and the hop body) without you necessarily touching it during your last game. A reduction in hop can lead to a higher FPS. Might be worth investing in a Chrono at some point if you are sticking with the hobby and will start tinkering with your guns - mine was very cheap (from memory, less than £40), yet has been reliable for years and always matches the readings that I get from the more expensive chronos on game days.

I must admit, I probably fall in a different category then! Primarily I enjoy the game rather than the LARPing element, and dress/arm accordingly for function over military realism. In reality these days, those two aspects come rather close - e.g. Crye style combats+ UBACS possibly being the best of the two worlds. Where I don't think the worlds align is helmets - comfort and situational awareness is reduced by any helmet (albeit considerably less these days than with e.g. the good old Mk6!). That said, I do wear one for up close and personal CQB and its protected me rather a lot!

As above, I suspect that your bottle simply isn't at high enough pressure - the feed of air should be continuous. Possibly your regulator could need a service if it is on the old side, but I strongly suspect that you simply haven't got your bottle up to a high enough pressure with your stirrup pump.

Hey, I'm keen on this Leia - she makes me feel good about myself LOL. If only my wife were as keen on my 'fantastic weekend DIY projects' !

What the guy has done in that link - and the amount of time he must have invested...wow!

That's an interesting idea! Certainly, when I ran the shotgun last night in the Epsom tunnels, my attempt at fixing the torch to the top rail and actuating with a thumb or forefinger didn't really work out. That said, the whole shotgun performance was pretty poor. Despite cleaning a metric tonne of what looked like grease out of the barrels, and gently cleaning the fixed hops with a alcohol soaked patch, the range on the Golden Eagle was pathetic, 15m, with no appreciable hop (on 0.2s), and a spread larger than person sized at that 15m range. Not sure if i have got a lemon, but at the moment, investing the time in rigging a torch onto the lower tube doesn't seem worthwhile unfortunately.

Some great ideas,thanks! I'll try to work something out this evening. Including if I dare screw anything into the pump/foregrip. I don't tend to use a torch much in CQB, as I subscribe to the above wisdom that 95% of the time it unesssarily advertises your position, but when you need it, you need it!

In a few days time I'm looking at running my new Golden Eagle M870 (https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/golden-eagle-type-870-m8871-railed-gas-shotgun) in the Epsom Tunnels (CQB). I'm struggling to identify a viable way of mounting a torch with pressure switch - what do people suggest? I imagine that its a problem common to all types of pump action....

Ok, problem solved! A bit of a roundabout way to get there, but I ended up buying a WE Glock17 Gen 3, and then fitting the army Armament R34 slide to it (fits perfectly), hand stippling the WE lower to match the Taran Tactical/JW2 look with a soldering iron (dead easy, and looks really good), and fitting the flared magwell from the Army Armament to the WE (again, fits perfectly). Pistol now works well with all mag types - highest FPS with WE and Action Army/AAP, slightly lower with army armament magazines. The magazines mostly have flat routers, and the BBU is curved as the original mags have curved routers, but this doesn't seem to be an issue as far as I can tell.

I've made a few courses in the garden before - a couple of hours cutting out a lifetimes supply of IPSC carboard targets from old boxes, mounted on garden canes, inc. a few white 'no shoot' targets partially obscuring a couple on each course. A wooden framed plate rack with steel discs held loosely in place within 3d printed cradles, lots of steel disc 'gongs', and a few falling plate steel 'popper' and disc targets. I've cut up an old mesh trampoline net which I use as screens to restrict field of views/arcs (perfect for the job as once cut up as each 'panel' has a sleeve either side for garden canes to be inserted). Mild steel discs can be readily purchased online of various sizes and thicknesses - I tend to find FH Brundle a good supplier (ebay is more expensive). These can be painted (e.g. white line marking paint) and drilled to be hung as gongs etc. Also, I've made a IPAS (Iron Plate Action Shoot) set up - which is good fun - 5 mild steel squares, 4 of them painted white and a fifth in red, paired with 5 simple wooden stands that allow the targets mounted at various heights/configurations. To be shot as fast as possible with a pistol, always ending on the red - various mobile phone shot timer apps will work. Both are mildly diverting BBQ side activities for guests....! But of course, old tin cans stuck on top of garden canes also works...