The_Lord_Poncho

I have fully switched to 18airsoft now for Hong Kong based sellers. A reasonable range, orders mostly turn up in circa 7-14 days, and comms are excellent.

Oh, that looks very different from mine. I think I'm going with JG for the time being, not least because of the black gearbox...

As above, 1 Joule tends to be the lowest limit for the various CQB sites in my local area too. They also have a limit on BB weight though - max .25. At 1J power, it might be worth experimenting with your BB weight outdoors, as .28 (and heavier) doesn't always equate to better range, especially when your gun is running at the lower power levels.

Thanks - some minor differences by the look of it. And I'm very jealous of your quick change spring!

If you are looking for getting new wheels moulded (great idea!), might it potentially be worthwhile looking at getting some tighter fitting arms done too? On all my ZCI rotaries (and i have a lot!) there is rather a lot of sideways play/slop when the arm is in its channel on top of the unit. I recently invested in a few Delta Armouries 'beserker' hop up bundles - rubber, nub - and an 'upgraded' arm - which fits the ZCI perfectly, and being a touch wider is a more snug fit on the unit with much less sideways play.

Many thanks - see below - does this give you enough detail? I'm not sure If SRC plastic is better than JG plastic - but this does feel pretty thick/solid/non creaky if that is anything to go by....

I use a mesh lower mask that includes separate mesh ear 'cups' - worst case would be that your hearing aids fall out but would be retained within the mesh for you to safely retrieve I would think. Something along these lines: My goggles strap sits above the top of the mesh ear cups, so i would presume that your current set up's strap would too. Certainly worth a try, they don't cost much, and your breath can rather freely escape (certainly easier than the balaclava style face protection that you seem to use) which helps with reducing fogging..

Thanks all. Yep, will strip it down further and see. Quite a nicely balanced little package actually.

That looks like a UK helmet cover loosely stretched over a US style mich helmet, and a generic M4 rather than an L119a1. And scrim scarves haven't been worn by anyone in the forces under the age of 50 for about 20 years. Definitely an airsoft image!

Picked up an old G36C+ a classic 'Bag of Bits' from a friend for £40. The rif seems pretty solid, nicely trademarked, and is marked with UMAREX licencing details on the magwell. Shoots quite nicely actually at circa 1J. I've been researching who the OEM could be, as I'm quite tempted to give the gun the love it deserves, and a bit of searching indicates Umarex have used a plethora of OEMs over the years for their G36s, including Cyma, JG, Ares, S&T. Does anyone know who the OEM is of this particular version? The gearbox is black painted metal - which makes me think it i possibly JG? If so, I'd be rather pleased! And if so, anything that I should look to swap out/replace for performance and longevity?

As above, first issue to check is that the mag is fully gassed. Remember to fill the mag with the mag and gas bottle upside down.

CM098/Cyma SR25 - i'm looking at you.....

I mean, we all know that we are each going to end up just getting both. I'm not sure why we carry on this pretence!

I'd be interested in your opinion when it arrives - for my next RIF I had been waiting for the S&T Lee Enfield No4. when it finally lands on these shores, but this might have just put the cat amongst the pigeons.

Just run down the left hand side of this table to find the FPS reading that you are getting, and then go across the table until you get to the weight of the BB you are using for the testing. https://www.airsoftmaster.com/fps-chart-for-airsoft-guns/

I hope not - otherwise i've been doing it wrong these past few years - i thought the trick was to fire a few shots in semi at the end of every game to ensure the spring was not under tension....

Looks really good - I've long been planning to make something similar. Is yours to be made from sheet metal? Mine is more likely to be an MDF creation.

Yes, some tighter than others. I've had both extremes - a very tight fit (eased with a bit of silicone oil), and very loose fit (rectified with a few wraps of PTFE tape). If you are needing force to seat yours in this case, after you have finished wrestling with it take care that the barrel hasn't got twisted within the hop (and therefore that the nub remains directly seated above the bucking patch).

Coincidentally, I'm three episodes into the first series - perfectly watchable on the train to while away the time, but my assessment thus far is that its not fabulous. I'll no doubt keep watching it though, partly because it requires zero thought!

I've had the same. In my case, it was midcap syndrome - i.e. i was just adding a few BBs into my mag for testing at home (lightly tensioned spring, no midcap syndrome), but loading the full mag up on the game day prior to chrono resulted in the FPS drop on the first few fired through the chrono from the highly tensioned spring in the mag.

Top stuff - good to see it adapted for use with a hat and different glasses than the standard goggles. I have had good service from my gen 1 nov antifog too.

On the original spring, or with the M120 monster? If the former, that FPS at 1.1J is about spot on. If you are achieving that with the M120, whilst the FPS is good for UK limits, you are losing a lot of air somehow and operating grossly inefficiently. I would also observe that 5 midcaps worth of shooting with a 1200mah battery is also not overly good, and inferring that this was what you achieved on the original spring, leads me to think that your battery might be somewhat tired and not giving you the advertised capacity. For reference, at circa 1.1J, I can usually happily get through about 8-10 midcaps on a 1.2 battery.

Quality morning at Driver Wood yesterday (Sunday). Numbers were rather lower than normal - something that I put down to a certain football match the night before. Indeed I overheard more than one person at morning Chrono pondering aloud whether they would be able to keep their stomach contents down during the game, and speculating as to the effect of vomiting through a mesh mask. To be honest, at circa 25 per team, rather than the usual 50 or so, I always have a good time -and yesterday was no different. Opting to run the L96 and MK23 during the the first game, my performance was rather lacklustre. Some memorable eliminations dealt out, but being the charitable sort, I provided the opposition with far more golden memories of 'slotting the tall idiot wearing partizan camo'. Second game I took off the viper hood, and picked up the STG44 to give it its first game. Totally stock, except for a deans connector soldered on, and a fake rivet epoxied to the receiver in order to semi lock it (it was shooting at DMR levels out of the box). Absolutely phenomenal game, with much mischief dealt out with the Sturmgewehr - it shot incredibly well on 0.28s- body size accurate at 60m+ (tested on the range). The only price I paid was using the canvas and leather repro ammo pouches - fast mag changes are really a thing of the past. Oh and the fact that the STG44 weighs a fraction more than an early 2000s Nissen Micra. Not that I'd change it for the world - the pleasure of humping that thing around with its meter long banana mags was immense.

I have had this before - in my case it was that the ultra cheap mounts that came with the scope were not actually clamping down evenly/fully on the picatinny rail - worth checking that first.

OP - for info, the whole sight should move on the elevation (if it works like the real one)- i.e. it doesn't just move the location of the 'pointer' within the optic tube.