The_Lord_Poncho

Good haul there! If they are the nuprol mesh goggles,they actually aren't too bad. Ive trusted them for years, and they have taken countless hits without drama (retired my first pair they it began to look like the surface of the moon). I wouldn't wear them indoors,but for woodland, I think they are good. There is an argument that with mesh you avoid the temptation of kids to lift steamed up goggles....

Could be either way to be honest - who knows. If it were me, I might be tempted simply to pick up a replacement slide stop and send it to the buyer as a gesture - presume that its one of these? https://www.18airsoft.com/products/army-armament-original-slide-stop-for-r501-r601-gbb-airsoft-army-162 £4+ postage

No - that would be silly. Circling it above the head, before lassoing the objective is where it is at.

I've been hit there few times - one shot even generated t a blood blister! I still wouldn't bother faffing about with specific protection though.

I have one of the GE shotguns (albeit a model with the stock). With mine, I had to Hpa it to get any usable range (i.e more than 20m), and at that 20m range, the spread of shot from the three barrels is significantly bigger than a human body. Given the generally positive reviews of them, I can't help but feel I ended up with a bit of a lemon though.

As above.... worth reading that thread. I've not got mine working well just yet, but this is due to me buying just the gearbox, and dropping into another replica - and struggling with nozzle alignment. One would like to assume that would not present an issue for a complete off the shelf Ares build. The engine itself seems to work adequately in my (very limited) testing. Worth bearing in mind that you will need a suitably sized 11.1 battery to power it, with the correct connector type. Latest stand alone engines being sold have a deans connector, the originals had an XT connector. Best to check with the seller which one is fitted to the example that you wish to buy.

I've made a few orders (albeit not if i can help it!) - its all turned up eventually, but wow, does it take an age.

Probably quite easy to resolve that slam fire issue - likely either the trigger sear, or (as was the case with my S&T) the trigger box just needs to be screwed tighter to the receiver.

Most of the above are a solid choice. I'd personally stay away from the VMP1 - you will probably get on better with an AEG as your first primary. Don't rule out the Cyma MP5 for outdoor play - the barrel length doesn't particularly make much different in airsoft to range/accuracy - the mp5 will be competitive in woodland. It has a quick change spring to tune your power level, and strips apart very very easily if you want to upgrade the hop rubber for greater range and accuracy (extremely easy). The cyma mp5SD that i purchased not too long ago had one of the best shimmed and quietest gear boxes from stock that I have come across.

I presume that you have tried adjusting the motor height? Sorry if that's rather basic advice, but it caught me out at the start!

If you are meaning the loading fin, it is a common issue - with the C clip that (should) hold it to the cylinder nozzle pinging off fairly regularly - especially if you fill the mags to full capacity. It can be permanently resolved by using a brass C clip manufactured from a 'slice' of an old inner barrel, or the best solution is to use the aluminium Airsoft Pro L96 AWS loading plate, carefully filed to shape/size, and paired with the Airsoft Pro C clip (annoyingly they don't come with the plate). Look up the Airsoft Lee Enfield group on Facebook - all the info on there. If you are meaning the rear of the bolt itself was wobbly, this is again common, but very easy to resolve - the fake 'hammer' at the rear of the bolt needs to be removed to access the allen head bolt underneath - tighten, with a bit of locktite added. Again, details/videos in the facebook group. Worth the effort to get the gun shooting reliably - they are superb fun, and pleasingly accurate.

I've achieved a mechanical lock in several ways, the simplest is superglueing on a fake domed rivet head (3d printed) to limit the movement of the selector switch. Seems to be accepted by the sites I frequent (albeit to be fair, so does an electronic lock via the FCU at those sites).

Both will be playable options, unlikely to be any real difference in range and accuracy between the two. Metal body on the more expensive is a personal preference thing only. The electronic trigger unit in the more expensive offers a little more functionality, and would allow for a 'snappier' feel when shooting. In reality though, it is unlikely to translate into more eliminated enemy players.... Specna also offer some rifles (polymer bodies, but with electronic triggers) around the price of the cheaper of your two delta armory links - worth a look!

I'm really invested in this now. You can't ban him. It would be like a production company pulling the plug on the last episode of the season! We need to know what it is!

I finally jumped onto the El Cheapo Ares 'drop in' HPA gearboxes. Time will tell if it really does drop in without any alignment issues. It certainly seems to be working well out of the gun though. Pleasantly surprised to see that they appear to have upgraded the latest batch with the battery cable being wired to deans, and to be rear wired with a long enough length to go through the buffer tube (the first batch had a very short wire with an XT30 connector). Cautiously I have also obtained an Ares rotary hop unit, in case the gearbox doesn't play well with my usual hop unit choices. Not bad for £131 posted.....