JVacation
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Posts posted by JVacation
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When I wrote this post a couple days back I did not expect it to cause so much traction!
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I still think the best and easiest way to do it is:
1) Player goes to chrono and says what weight they are using
2) Marshall chooses a random amount of shots through the chrono
3) if all readings are in the limit; remove the mag and take a sample of bbs.
4) Weigh the bb on some micro scales (your typical drug dealer scale haha)
5) Approve the player if weight matches
Yes this can be somewhat cheated still but it makes it far harder
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1 hour ago, BigStew said:
That's why you measure by joules. If a person says they are using a lighter weight BB than they are the gun will chrono hot.
That's not true.
If you turn up to the chrono and say you are using a 0.2g; the fps limit will the be 350 with joules at 1.13j and that's what the person doing the chrono will be checking.
If you have a mag of 0.32g instead which is firing at 350 fps the joules is at 1.82j
48 minutes ago, Jez_Armstrong said:If you're going into the game already wanting to cheat then airsoft isn't for you
Unfortunately it happens- Rogerborg and Cannonfodder
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In reality it is quite easy to cheat the chrono by just saying you are using a different bb weight than you are actually using.
Some sites make you chrono and then take a single bb from the mag you used and weigh it. I understand it would take longer but it is something that would be good to see become the "standard".
Thoughts?
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You can try leaving it pre-cocked, just be careful with it and don't leave it too long.
The main thing to remember is that chronos read differently between each other. Even the same brand and model can read differently. I know that my chrono reads about 10 fps higher than the one at my normal site. No real idea which one is correct.
If you can't get it lower by leaving it on pre-cock you can also try changing the springs or shortening your spring but I don't think the arp 9 has a straightforward spring change.
Another option is looking at the bore and length of your inner barrel.
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Do you know which mosfet is in it? Some have cyma oem ones and some have eshooter in it.
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If I remember correctly they had a bit of a falling out with Warhead in general. I think it was due to the people at Warhead UK thinking that the support from Warhead global was inadequate and then warhead global tried cutting them off. Luke was posting stories on his Facebook saying that they were still offering support to customers regardless.
Please correct me if I am wrong, I am only going off on what I "some what" remember and I apologise if what I'm saying is not 100% true.
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On 23/04/2025 at 11:13, Adolf Hamster said:
Surely that aint gonna work for chinesium triggers?
Steel triggers like e&l that would work, but those also tend to be the ones that actually play ball.
One thing i did on my old jg was drill and tap a screw into the end of the trigger pin, which would hold it in place, and by extension hold the rest in place. Do that at your own peril though as it'll make a thin potmetal pin even thinner and more likely to snap.
I've had it work on Cyma triggers so would assume it would work on quite a few. You are right though mentioning the metal content.
AK triggers are in general a pain, The Perun Clicker does help a lot though if you are running a perun.
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A little trick with a V3 trigger and for other things. Use neodymium magnets to aid in holding the trigger in a little bit. Pop them on the opposite side of the case and most triggers will get held in by them. Also really handy for holding the anti reversal latch in.
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The annoying thing about LMGs in the UK is that the majority of sites do not have rules where they benefit over your typical assault rifle. I know Rift allow a little increase in joule limit and a longer full auto when mounted but it also introduces an engagement range. You also have to carry a sidearm due to most sites having semi auto only areas and under 10 metres.
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I wonder if the Cyma platinum v3 has been fixed yet. The first batch the 1st tooth of the sector gear would clip the 2nd tooth on the piston slightly. In theory it should be fine but not the quality you would expect from their platinum series.
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Yeah just hand tight until it stops twisting on.
Usually it will twist on easy at the start, then get a little harder stop until you are met with that "brick wall"
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The issue with TM is that they are designed for a specific market. Majority of that market is in Japan where joule limits are quite a bit lower. At that limit they are likely to last but once people start demanding more out of them that's where they start to struggle...
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@pyromancer6 regarding the hop unit and maple leaf. Barrels have a tiny amount of deviation in dimensions around the window. Some barrels go into the hop unit a tiny bit further than others, not much at all but means that the bottom lip of the maple leaf bucking goes too far into the unit meaning it blocks the feeding tube of the hop unit.
To test this assemble the barrel, unit and the bucking as you would and flip it over so the tube which makes contact with your magazine is pointing up. Drop a bb down it and see if it goes all the way into the unit. If it does then it's all good however if it gets stuck halfway use something to test the resistance to push the bb into the unit completely.
If you feel any resistance at all you will need to shave the bottom lip of the bucking a tiny bit just to give more space for it to drop.
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Just take it nice and slow. Will be the opposite side to the patch. Keep testing it by putting it back in the hop unit and dropping a bb down the feeding tube. As soon as it passes with no resistance you are good.
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@Pollynator_bravo2 - The maple leafs are too long for the DE hop unit. You can probably shave the bottom lip a little bit though which should resolve it.
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Think I made a topic on this a while ago. I still strongly believe that ghillies should be bolt action only. This would naturally limit the amount that are present in a game. I think the problem is that if a large percentage of players are wearing them it makes the games very slow and makes the games less exciting for everyone as it means more people are moving slower.
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I don't see there being any real negative to having this. It protects staff and the players. So if a site feels like it's useful then so be it. I can see it being more useful for sites which cater for larger number of players for things such as recognition and for when things escalate on those larger sites where the next Marshall might be a 5 minute walk away.
In my own experience players do seem to be getting more frustrated if not aggressive in the last few years. Especially after covid.
Having more protection is never a bad thing.
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To be honest with the rain fall we have had airsoft won't be back to normal till late spring at the earliest. The ground conditions at so many sites is just so boggy and out right dangerous. I always choose to take a bit of time off when it's like this because firstly it's my weekend and I can't be bothered with all the mess. Secondly it makes gameplay too slow for me unless you have a death wish and lastly I don't want to break anything (me or my gear)
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Hello,
Just trying to work out the stance for selling lipos on here and then shipping them.
I have quite a few 11.1s that I need to sell however not sure what is the best way to send them out. I have had success in the past sending them out with Rifs via parcelforce 48 but never on their own.
Cheers
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Been recently having a play around and checking out the internals of the new Cyma platinum SLR AKs. A couple of things stand out to me.
The new hop unit (Yes the one with inbuilt tracer...) has had a lot of thought put into it. Tracers are not my thing however you can easily turn it off with a flick of a switch. The one thing however that I really like about it is that they have fixed the issue where the hop setting self adjusts. Usually this is done by an O-ring however as some as you know it is not always the most reliable. What CYMA have done with this unit is under the adjustment slider they have added a little hole where a spring sits with a plastic tip (Like the ones you get under M4 selectors to give the *click*). They have then serrated the the underneath of the adjustment slider. This means you can do tiny clicks of movement easily and it also sits nice and rigid.
The gearbox is a DYTAC gearbox which I believe CYMA are the OEM of so it should be nice and strong. It has the typical platinum internals with it being 13:1, mosfet and the cyma blue compression parts. One thing I have noticed is that I believe the shop where it is purchased it from has put in a different motor from stock. Usually CYMA platinum motors have a cyma logo on the side where as this one has a white stick label on on it that says 'To go into CYMA blue' or something alone the lines. It seems like putting in a m120 with the 13:1 it doesn't like it 100% so will be putting in a ZCI 22 in.
Overall quite impressed with it all. There needs to be a slight modification to the piston which I might update this post with once done. Also might put in a different mosfet if this one fails (Ideally a perun hybrid v3 but I'm not great at soldering).
- ak2m4 and RostokMcSpoons
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Hello,
Recently have been using Bloc lynx as my eye pro however the last two outings I find what happens is sweat keeps getting onto the lens and then makes it impossible to see until it evaporates. Anyone have any ideas how to get rid of this?
On other terms I have been thinking about moving over to mesh to get away from this issue completely. People used to recommend hero sharks however I am not sure if they still exist? So any recommendations for good mesh eye pro which give better vision than others would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
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One of the videos shows it here:
I have seen other videos of it walking around in the gamezone too and not just in the vehicle but those were your generic gameplay videos which I can't remember who posted them.
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Recently seen some photos / videos of a site where there is a dog in the game zone. It is wearing some eye protection and a high vis and walks around with the marshall who is the owner however what is everyone's opinions on it? As a dog owner I would never ever even think about putting my dog in any place of danger. Thing is marshalls are known to get hit by bbs on accident so it can easily happen to the dog and you never know there could be someone willing to hurt it. It's also hard to make sure that the eye protection stays on the dog 100% of the time.
- Nick G, Cannonfodder, Rogerborg and 1 other
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What is the quietest standard AEG?
in Electric Guns
Posted
The quietest aeg that you can make is most likely something like an Aug or previously mentioned an F2000. The gearbox is very enclosed and the areas around it can be padded out with foam and etc for further sound proofing.
Although that's only if all variables between all the different aegs are constant.
Noises come from every single part of the gearbox. The motor, gears, piston, piston head and cylinder head slapping and other bits.
The fact is if you take 10 aegs out of the box. All the same model and from the same manufacturer you will find each one sounds different