Fatboy40

The no.1 reason why I sold my Armorer Works drum mag (the same as the WE one mechanically). Spare parts are as rare as rocking horse shit with you having to use places like WGC Shop (who are actually very good), the winding mechanism craps out regularly requiring a replacement, and generally they're a lot more fragile than you think. You're probably going to have to bite the bullet and get the park from HK.

Regarding battery it's great when you suddenly find that your battery lasts twice as long as it did on a full charge. Also, as the torque is so incredible, you then start to think about lower gear ratios and just using 7.4v!

So @ButcherBill can reminisce (mods, please delete if inappropriate)... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bK9DCPl2nHQ

This post from me is a little blunt but why "take your gun in" as it's so easy to get a better setup yourself... Buy a Snipetor r-hop patch from their website that matches your inner barrel. Buy a Modify flat bucking. Buy a Maple Leaf Omega nub. Enjoy.

As plain and white bread as they can come, a scruffy boneyard job, but I've spent money on the internals... PDI inner barrel. Snipetor r-hop patch + Modify flat bucking. GATE Titan v3. AK2M4 / XT brushless motor. ... and it runs very nicely on 7.4v (I've no 11.1v's that fit). I'm quite tempted to stick with 7.4v and pop in a lower ratio gear set ? Edit: It was bought with the intention of using as a cold weather / winter sidearm, but as the upper is metal it weighs a ton and is tricky to use single handed.

"What Y'all Think Of My New M4", "Where Do Y'All Play In Tallahassee", basically loads of inane post with "Y'all" somewhere in the subject r/airsoft takes a lot of browsing to find any nuggets of gold, and I always tell any UK players to come here instead ? Back to this threads subject though there's no single answer to this, you just need to follow and watch a few until you get a feel for them and how they operate. If you watch the above recommendations, and maybe thrown in Airsoft Camman (who does get a lot of freebies), YouTube will see what you're watching and make reccomendations.

We need to organise an AF UK members vs site locals, imagine the carnage / reviews ?

Is this the MTW Wraith, with a small bottle in the stock (it's only good for 500 to 1,000 shots though before you have to refill / swap it out). A very well setup AEG will be just as good as HPA though, so what you gain with HPA is the reduced noise and variability of power depending upon sites (so if you always play at the same few sites your AEG is probably already setup for them).

I can see around Christmas time that I'll probably be in a position to buy myself my first bolt action, and I don't plan on building a collection of them so I want to get things right first time. Overall I'm drawn to the TAC-41 platform and the TAC-41 L due to it being light with the slim stock but with the aluminium receiver and other parts. There are a few things though that I'd value others comments on as I don't want to make any mistakes... # Inner Barrel Length: Most TAC-41 models come with the 330mm inner barrel, with only a couple the 510mm. I'd be planning to get as close as possible the UK joule limit on 0.43 to 0.48g BB's, so is 330mm fine or without going longer am I limiting my range and accuracy? # It seems the concave chubb nub is a given to improve hop, but do I stick with the standard flat hop rubber? # What spring / Newton's, from Silverback, should I go with to just sit under UK limits? It seems to be the 120N and you may have to remove a coil? # Is the TDC dial "good enough" or is it best to immediately install the Medusa? # With the TAC-41's feed ramp does your magazine immediately "lose" 20 or so BB's with them sat in it? (so when you play pop the mag in, take it out and load it up fully again, then put it back in?). Do people at the end of a game just empty the ramp and put the BB's back in your speed loader? (I don't mind losing say the three that remain in a Maxx model hop unit each time, but not 20). # Are the mags fiddly, until you get used to them, and it's easy to just accidentally empty them? Do any of the 40 / 100 round mags fit in existing pouches? Thank you

Well, I suppose it's cheaper than getting into using TAGinn rounds (which if I won the lottery I 100% would).

I've settled into a groove now with my DMR and becoming a mobile bush, it also suits the fact I'm in my early 50's and really don't like running around (which I leave to others). I'm happy that my AEG DMR is the best it will ever be, with doubts that HPA would improve anything at all consistency / range wise and I don't fancy the hassle of bottles and lines. A little bit of my brain always wonders what gameplay would be like though with a good bolt action and if I should bite the bullet and invest in one and the many upgrades over time. Currently I shoot 0.40g with my DMR, it's almost spot on for 1.6 joules at this weight, and is accurate up to 80 meters or so in the right weather. For those of you with both a well tuned DMR, and a well tuned bolt action, do you really notice that much of a difference between the two? (range, accuracy, consistency etc.). I quite like the DMR life, in that I can hide and be sneaky but when needed be a little more rapid moving around within my MED. A bit of me worries that the bolt action life in comparison could be a bit more dull, waiting for the perfect shot, and all you need is a player to spot the incoming BB / move a little and all the effort is wasted?

The prime reason why I now rarely play at my most local site, where it's somewhat become a battle of who has the fittest people who can sprint on their team and claim the areas that cause bottlenecks I'd 100% play The Mall if it still existed as Z-Mart is great but it's too dark and scary for me (I'm a wimp).

My son's backup AEG, a modified G&G Firehawk with a 160mm inner barrel (120mm is stock length for it), says otherwise. Shooting 0.32g, with a Max Model M4A-PRO + o-rings rather than a spring in front of the hop unit, it has a huge amount of range and is very accurate. Looking at inner barrel length in isolation is not the whole picture. (I've also a CYMA MP5K, running a Snipetor r-hop patch + Modify flat bucking + 0.32g BB's, and it's range and accuracy is also way better than you'd expect)

Don't use this very close location / proximity to assume they're the same business. You may already know this but like minded manufacturers in China often congregate in very small areas, often unique businesses but they all use very local suppliers for parts / sub-assemblies.

I've no experience of either, but things I'd consider... Maybe add the Nonvritsch SSR90 into your shortlist. I've always been told Krytac use many unique to them parts in their RIF's, so beware vendor lock in from them. If any of them have the Perun P90 controller installed as standard this would be a big plus point. ... and don't forget to search the forum...

I'm really not sure it's worth it when AK2M4 sell complete spring guides for a very fair price. However, like many airsoft things there's no guarantee that they'll fit all gearbox shells perfectly (especially if QD).

And now the uncomfortable question... are you quitting Airsoft? (If yes UK sales of TAGinn rounds will drop off a cliff)

Hijacking your thread I hope this doesn't mean you won't be around for the Red Alert "Battelsim Lite" in October ?

Red Alert is 100% my favourite site now, roll on 27/10/2024 and the next Battle Sim, and the sausage + mash + gravy was lovely on Sunday...

... just don't forget a little Loctite / threadlock on the motor height screw

Agree that it sounds like the perfect test bed for playing around with a very cheap controller from T238, maybe even bought from AliExpress to make costs lower

Ding ding ding, we have a winner That's the joy of mechanical trigger contacts and no "controller" in the gearbox that has optical sensors for the sector gear. Controllers, optical sensors, and "cycle control" make life so much easier.

Does this occur for both semi and full auto?

My airsoft headgear journey has followed the Michael Fassbender "Perfection" meme, three different things until perfection was achieved. I prefer real head protection: Started with a Viper Tactical baseball cap, occasionally using a Jack Pike camo one, and both suffered with the same problems... too thin / fell off too easily / peak would catch on things / BB's magically find any gaps. I said real head protection: Then a good FMA ballistic helmet, a very large one that fitted my melon head. I was very happy, I could mount an ExFog, but then being sneaky came along and it didn't fit the bill (but has been passed to my son who happy with it). Perfection: Then onto a boonie for trying to pretend to be a bush or a clump of bracken (with added mesh etc. and my ExFog). But, ignoring the camo side of things, I found that it was "perfection" in that... it's light on my head / sits well with my Delta Mike / the fabric has some "give" rather than a restrictive helmet / it's so easy to store in my kit bag / it has a wire brim so I can mold it to by head (no BB gaps) / the material is thick enough to protect me but I will notice hits. I love my "UF PRO Striker Gen.2 Boonie" and need to buy another to craft ready for winter.