RAM

Handy hint #7 - To save carrying food simply capture some prisoners and confiscate their rations. Best done early in the day so their is more choice.

Thanks for the idea I did itand it created a small gap to let me see that there was a plate around the back and figure out how to do it which it use a flat head screwdriver and gently lever it forward from the receiver. It was binding on the mock gas tube.
 
Added a photo for reference just incase anyone else has this issue.
 

Both of these videos (albeit different airsoft manufacturers) indicate that it should just slide off:
 
 
 
Personally, I would use a flat/drift punch and gently tap the rail forward from the receiver end. And I mean gently (but frequently) tap on both sides of the rail - then see if there is any movement.
 
 

(Luke screams)
 
totally agree with ptfe if done properly & neatly - I still fucking do it
 
G&G cylinder heads are not awesome, needs about 2 or 3 wraps
Cyma cylinder heads just fall out & I mean fall out on there own (need about 6 wraps at least)
 
But I've found it is the G&G piston head - it is just semi shit to meehhhh at best
& I've tried lots of different size o-rings & types like different colour o-rings, black, brown, red
never got great results, even lining it with ptfe inside to push the o-ring out, NOPE little joy
 
Some people have disagreed, but most of the people I chatted to say yeah that ain't all that
 
JG (5 holes) & Cyma piston heads (8 holes) are very good, Cyma's need a stretched/new o-ring though
but G&G std piston heads are a bit wanked imho, I've yet to get really great awesome seal/compression with 'em
 
I think a fair bit of it is to do with the rear of the piston head...
You want a piston head with as large as possible diameter at back, without rubbing on cylinder wall
to provide max solid support to o-ring as it hurtles down the cylinder building compression as it goes
Some piston heads are smaller in diameter at rear, that allows less support and air to lightly slip past
Thus you end up with some compression tests as OK-ish and then some are "fuck me, that's awesome"
Obviously there is the o-ring itself and also the effectiveness of the ports/vents at the front pushing out o-ring
But discovered some piston heads are better than others and a considerable part of that imho is support at back
 
I will nearly always re-use the cyma stock piston head with a M3 bolt & nylon locking nut in a better piston
(or the cyma piston combo, but the piston head seals great with a new o-ring on it)
 
The OP could buy that from Pete...
https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons/cyma-15-tooth-reinforced-piston-piston-head
but it is also a 15 tooth, comes with 9mm spacer that will add more fps
but be a little looser - not too loose btw, in the G&G and work very well too
Just that SHS combo is a good buy too and unlike Cyma boxes, doesn't bind in G&G boxes
(so I'd lean towards the SHS tbh for a G&G box & Cyma combo for say a Cyma box)
 
you could pm Pete and he might be able to sort you out if buying a few bits @ak2m4
but just change a few essential bits than go nutz - yeah we all can get carried away sometimes
just change a couple of things than risk fitting shit that causes more grief than it fixes if possible

The cylinder head is fine tbh
it can be improved by wrapping some ptfe tape around it
about 3 wraps & trim off excess with scalpel/sharp knife
(yes it is a bodge but it does work well if done neatly,
plus change as little as possible if starting out teching)
 
The main crappy thing is the std G&G piston head
I have never really got great awesome compression with it
 
A good combo is the SHS TT0081
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHS-15-Tooth-Poly-Piston-Alloy-Head-TT0081-With-O-Ring-Airsoft/353103859892?hash=item5236a150b4:g:Z2kAAOSwRXxe4kEj
 
SHS pistons can bind, be a smidge tight in some boxes but not G&G's
and the head - though alloy which some prefer plastic/POM piston heads...
It is banging as it is - if you don't get good compression the o-ring must be missing
 
It might come with bearings inside, I would consider using the G&G's black spacer & collar
in the SHS alloy head - or apply some mild/blue threadlock to threads if using bearings
 
The piston is a 15 tooth, not a 14 tooth rack, so the 2nd tooth is still there on SHS rack
so really you might need to remove rack & dremmel the 2nd tooth off perhaps
BUT if you don't correct AoE you might just be OK leaving it as is,
though I'd look to remove the 2nd tooth if poss
or just use the alloy SHS piston head on G&G piston if unsure
 
Yes you could buy another piston head, but I have bought a few that were not much better than the G&G
plus for £11 for both say a £10 SHS piston with a nice good compression head for another quid
 
The SHS piston will bind in say Cyma v2 boxes but not in G&G's (tiny bit more room on rails inside)
You could buy a Cyma complete piston, might need to stretch o-ring a bit, but it will be a tiny bit looser in a G&G
So a SHS piston in a G&G box works very nicely imho, and piston head is top notch for compression (honest)
 
As said I'm not a great fan of alloy piston heads, but I know that TT0081 works really well for G&G CM16's
If I could only buy/replace only ONE thing only in a G&G Combat Machine box - that is what I would fit
 
The other thing I'd consider is a bearing spring guide, coz the bearings at back will give you more spring compression
aprox 20fps over the std solid spring guide...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rocket-Airsoft-Rotary-Bearing-Spring-Guide-Mechbox-Gearbox-M-Series-bbs/353033134403?epid=25032320745&hash=item52326a2143:g:QOgAAOSw8MpehgWH
 
if you grab this please make sure you select V2 type
 
(sorry Pete you didn't seem to have the piston combo in stock m8)
 
The piston combo will provide great seal/compression (seal cylinder head with ptfe) and get you say 314+fps on m95
the spring guide will give you about 20fps more to say 334fps
 
You could change nozzle, you could change cylinder head too - BUT change as little as possible
that way you minimise any issues like nozzle too long (feed issues)
or even in rare cases some cylinder heads were fatter and box didn't close up 101% (rare but has happened)
 
But as you are perhaps new to this and maybe unaware of the TM compatible BS at times
you don't want to gut it completely and run into potential issues coz 1 part is not quite 101% fully compatible
 
So I've suggested just 1 or perhaps 2 parts to consider changing to gain efficiency
without a big risk of shit not working on your first attempt - hence maybe keep cylinder head nozzle etc...
Keeping it simple & on a very modest budget with just one or two things that will yeild good results
 
you might have to tinker with the 2nd tooth on the 15 tooth rack - but it is a good buy for £11

are you sure the leak is at the cylinder head and not the piston?
 
that looks like a standard m4 type so either of the 2 you link to should work.
 
at the risk of invoking the wrath of negative airsoft you can also patch up the seal of the existing head with ptfe tape.
 
it's worth bearing in mind that the air tube on different brands of cylinder head can be slightly different, so a given cylinder head with a narrower tube can simply move the air leak issue on to the nozzle side if it's not matched with an appropriate nozzle.

Thanks guys for the help I have ordered from ak2m4.co.uk these parts hoping that I can get it working right for this coming Sunday game at Apocalypse.
SHS (RA) M4 Cylinder Head Aluminium (Pad)
SHS (RA) Piston Head (Double O-Ring Aluminium)
Rocket 15 Tooth Piston

This is a pretty common issue with mags.  You can use the fuzzy side of some adhesive velcro (available in the sewing section in most supermarkets) to sort out the alignment.  Either stick it inside the front of the magwell (although you might then have to file down the high cap), or stick it on the front of the mid cap mags.  You could also try adding epoxy / JB weld to the front of the mags or gluing thin plastic to them. I like to use pieces of cable tie for packing things out - the ridged side takes glue well, and the smooth side is, well, smooth.
 
I know it seems like this stuff should all just fit, but every manufacturer uses slightly different specs and tolerances. Fun fact internet anecdote, the STANAG "standard" appears to still be an unapproved draft after decades of practical use.
 
 

Mayhem airsoft near Abridge, Tactical near Croydon  (Though I dont recommend it), Sentinal in Dunstable and Driver Wood near Crawley. 

https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/43-longrange-aegs/55923-how-make-quietest-aeg-ever.html
 
Have a look at this.
Some useful bits, although it doesn't really work for anything that's not a bullpup (AUG, P90s, PDR-C, you get the idea)

Check the Nozzle length. ICS M4 Nozzles are shorter than standard M4s.
 
I would suggest this instead:
https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ics-m4mx5-metal-air-jet-nozzle
 
 

I'd look at running a mk23 as a sidearm and keep the hog as-is then, you'll get the gold standard of airsoft silence without sacrificing firepower.

You can get Heroshark specs direct from his website https://store1044560.ecwid.com/
 
With regards to AEG, my personal opinion is either buy a cheap one with a view to buying a newer better one down the line or buy a better one from the start. Don't kid yourself into thinking a "cheap-mid" initial will take upgradez down the line giving it some secret sauce of performance. You need a good canvas to start with.
 
My first AEG which I still have now as it performs OK is an Ares Amoeba AM-008. It's quite short with a 7" rail but there are a lot of other well priced brands out there now, the Low-Mid price range is rife and I'm really not the best placed to advise as I don't really fire anything that isn't a BASR these days.

I'd say 'SpecnaArms Edge' series are the best medium budget range

Hi all been lurking on here for the past couple of days reading and researching but still don't have my gun and won't do till the lockdown is finished and I can get the 1st few games underway with to get my UKARA.
 
I live in the Kent area a stones throw from the Apocalypse site, so maybe I will get to meet some of you when I get to go.
 
I have been looking at AEG's and whilst I love the G&P Salient Arms SAI GRY M4 (Short) (Yep another one who loves the film 13 Hours) I was also looking at a few others that are of a similar style but I am not sure as I have read so many reviews where some say that such and such make is good then another will say they have issues with it. I know a lot is down to personal preference.
 
In short me and a mate are really serious into getting into this so don't want to waste money buying the wrong setups. both of us are fairly short and not having very long reach plus we both like the idea of having a go at CQB but don't want to limit ourselves to just that so we was wondering if there was a AEG AR15 style that was able to be used for both assualt (More Open Spaces) as well as CQB in the way that the barrels are not to long so clearing rooms etc wouldn't be to much of an issue.
 
We have both decided that for the moment we will forget about buying sidearms till we have had more time to get into the play styles and such.
 
The rifles that we have looked at that we seem to like is these.
G&P Salient Arms SAI GRY M4
G&G GC16 ARP 556 FULL METAL MOSFET BLACK
G&G PDW15-CQB HONEY BADGER
EVOLUTION DYTAC M4 MK4 SMR 10.5" A-TACS AU LONE STAR EDITION
KRYTAC MK II War Sport LVOA-C
 
The type of things we are looking for in the rifle is as I mentioned above something that we can use in open spaces as well as CQB, also we want to be able to have the option to upgrade too. we know that it might not be possible to have all these options hence why I am asking you wonderful people (Passes over the sick bag) for your knowledge and advice.
 
I also have another question. this is about Face protection. I personally have to wear glasses and my eye sight is bad without them and I know from personal exprience that Goggles to tend to fog up with me from playing paintball before. What is a good fullface protection that is like the DYE full face mask and is there any out there that have a fan in them to help with the anti fogging ?