alxndrhll

FWIW you're kind of talking around in circles at this point with the whole 'learn curve' thing. Without intending to be confrontational or offensive, though undoubtedly being both, based on the follow up question regarding what gas to use you'd have still been out of your depth had it been a Hi-capa or a Glock you were working on because your foundation of knowledge is so low. Bit too late now, but the 'Probably not the best choice for a new guy, but you don't learn without a challenge.' doesn't hold a huge amount of water given it would have still be a challenge had you started with a platform better suited to someone with your level of experience. Granted in my opinion, when it comes to airsoft work you're at the mercy of generally shite QC and tolerances so outside of wider/more convenient parts availability I'm not really sure that the starting RIF makes much of a difference... the largest difference being the size of the knowledge base around the platform. Which is likely why you've found getting answers more difficult alongside how awkawrd it is to actually diagnose issues as has already been highlighted. As for the gas question, there are a few variables that go into it. The main question is longevity versus performance. In a Marui 144a is enough to get them to function and is what is recommended by Marui. Bear in mind Marui are a Japanese company, that manufacture their RIFs for the Japanese market and such, Japanese limits. They couldn't give a monkeys about the limits anywhere else. You can get higher power out of them with green gas, but as you've said they'll likely hit a point of failure sooner than they would on 144a. Much the same as running a battery powered RIF that's advised to be run on a 7.4v battery with an 11.1v battery, it'll work with either but it wasn't manufacturered to deal with the additional strains of an 11.1. You'll want to be operating within legal limits (which I'd hope you know for wherever you're located), green gas is what the majority use in the UK (perfumed propane with some lube in).

Unless I've been wildly misinformed pressure in gas mags is rarely a bad thing, at least at the pressures all conventional propellants used in airsoft over here operate at. Not that I imagine it's at all significant when it comes to storage but I wouldn't be shocked if the pressure in there drops between now and Thursday evening, can't speak for where you're located but it's been roasting hot here today!

You want to leave gas in your mags at all times (unless you're doing maintenance or shipping them somewhere). Whatever your green gas of choice is, is fine inbetween games. If you're leaving them in storage/not using them for an extended period of time then some form of maintenance gas is the smarter play (it tends to have more lube it in, keep the o-rings fresh for longer). If pure propane is your propellant of choice I've always emptied the mags (by firing rather than purging) and then popping some maintenance gas in while not in use, purely because propane without any lubricant is very dry so this helps keep the o-rings healthy and saves on the requirement for more frequent 'proper' maintenance. Worth noting this isn't limited to the MWS, same goes for all gas powered RIFs. Not to say I think there is an exact science to it, I'm sure folks have their own ways... this is just how I do it. Not the question you were asking but linked, I don't know if it's particularly necessary but I always make sure the mags are empty in terms of BB. Main reason is to keep the springs happy... secondary benefit being for safety reasons... means I'm not guessing what weight BBs are in mags when it comes to chrono time.

If you're asking for a valuation you'll want to make a post in the appraisals section here. You'll want to take some photos of your own of everything you'll be looking to sell and be as specific as you can about everything you're looking to sell. The less specific you are, the harder it is to give an accurate valuation. Once you've had an appraisal if you wish to list it read the forum classifeds rules which can be found here. Then, once you've figured out your price you'll want to list in the 'spring rifles' classifieds section which can be found here.

Assuming you're in the UK, or a handful of other places which are listed on HAOs website, shipping is currently suspended so I expect they'll get round to a cancellation/refund before it'd be getting sent out.

It's what I'd imagine is a clone of an Accu-Shot V8 Atlas with a grip attachment. I certainly wouldn't vouch for it partially because I personally think bipods are additional weight for no reason when it comes to airsoft, and partially because it isn't a brand I'm familiar with. But you aren't here asking for opinions on how useful they are, so this would be my best bet as to precisely what it is.

If I was to draw any correlation it'd tend to be the dreamer/borderline dreamer posts tend to increase around paydays. I'm assuming that's folks seeing a new shiny they want from their hard earned coin but falling slightly short, dipping into the collection to make up the difference. In the case of that admittedly overpriced CM.041 my initial thoughts were 'I wouldn't pay that, but also find me another in stock' (which is now somewhat moot because TG have had a restock, granted some aren't willing to buy from TG at present). Very much priced to catch someone impulsive that's in a rush to get one. Do I think it's a dreamer price? Yup. Do I think there is someone out there that might if you wait long enough? Probably. In terms of actual advice should the seller read this, after shipping fees and potential import charges you're probably looking at a similar cost from TG as you would be Patrol Base (you might get lucky and skip the fees but we'll go with 'worst case'). The arbitrary starting point of 60-70% of £230 (it's useful as a baseline if nothing else) falls at £138-161. Considering they're seemingly relative hard to get your hands on at present, if it were me I'd likely list it for £180 including all fees and postage.

No worries at all, I'll pop your name at the top of the list. As for trades, I don't believe so. Cash is going into the 'buy an MWS before my UKARA runs out' fund 😂.

Hi folks, Picked this up as part of a bundle, I already have 4 Glocks so this is something I'm looking to move on. Not a brand I'm at all familiar with, from what I can gather a lot of the value is in the mags but I'm not sure how accurate that statement is. Absolutely zero idea what would be considered reasonable in terms of a price to list it at, though I would ideally be looking to sell it altogether. Everything seems to work as it should in regard to function and the mags all hold gas. Doesn't have the weird rail section that looks to fit on the front, outside of that everything is present and correct (including paperwork, what I assume is a hop adjustment tool and what I assume is a speedload attachment of some description). Condition wise the photos below do a better job than I ccould do with words, I'd probably go with 'decent condition but definitely used'. Cheers, Alex

Among a variety of other bits and bobs, finally managed to grab some of these puppies for the NGRS (not long after conceding I didn’t think I’d ever get any and picked up some EPMs... such is life). 😍

Round two of my Zenitco parts finally arrived from Russia, the build is finally ready for someone much more capable than I to put it together. Had a B11u, B18 and some different length rail segments in this one.

Don't have a horse in this race (nor a suggestion for what is and isn't a good first RIF). Just wanted to clarify that assuming it's the angle of the inner barrel/the gap around it that is the guilty party here I wouldn't have said that's a miscast or anything like that. Simply a case that the usual centering plug and o-ring isn't present, so when the inner barrel isn't being supported by an outer barrel you'll get one hell of a lean going on... as seen in your photo. If it's not this we're supposed to be looking at and I'm missing some really obvious miscasting, I apologise in advance. Is that a booboo on Specna's part? Yes. Is this post largely just splitting hairs? Also yes. Figured I'd 'show my working' below as this is a thread started by a newer player, I've circled the missing things in the image below:

'Welcome to the IPSAR family, please join the back of the line when the time comes.'

More food for thought than anything else, but on a more serious note I just think a broader consideration of what you’d consider ‘needing in a hurry’ might be worth having. So much of the, being blunt, what I’d call unnecessary junk that you’d have down as wanting to carry on a rig would at best be in a backpack/rucksack for me. In no way trying to say there is a right way of doing things, if there was I imagine all of the answers here would have been identical (budget permitting). It’s just kinda clicked for me that you ultimately want to carry a whole load of stuff, conveniently, comfortably, in a balanced capacity all on a chest rig with no direct counter ballast. Something like the Thing 2 from Spiritus would do a much better job of spreading/supporting that much weight but I ultimately think you’d wind up in at a not entirely different experience to the TMR after a few hours (at least without a better harness, i.e. the AirLite one but we’re in silly money territory at this point). I’m open to being wrong, it’s been a long time since I felt the need to carry all but the kitchen sink with me. Just my thoughts having considered what it is you’re seemingly looking for. Especially in the longer games you have more than enough time to whip a backpack off and scoop out what you need, the only stuff you need immediate access to would be the same shite you’d want on what I’d call a ‘regular skirmish day’ i.e. your ‘combat stuff’ and hydration (mags, speedloader, maybe additional ammo on top of the speedloader contents, water, a spare RIF battery, pyro if that’s something you care for).

Is it this per chance?

This. I’d definitely be lying to a degree if I said my concern wasn’t self serving in some capacity. Irrelevant of whether is was down to their dodgy eye pro or not, if mine was the shot that caused someone permanent loss of vision in some way/shape/form that guilt would follow me. I get that getting injured is a risk of the hobby, and is why you sign your life away before getting to take to the field at sites... but fuck me if me being partially responsible for something like that wouldn’t take the shine off my favourite pastime.

'Issued there (their 🤦‍♂️) paper work' What an absolute character this chap is turning out to be haha. I too expect the solicitor thing is entirely a bluff, because any legal advisor worth their salt would have the same first question as every fucker else. That being "Do you have test certification to show they meet safety standards to be used for what you're selling them for?" 🤡

That's fair, I guess my perception of a micro rig is warped by having used an SS Mk4 with a Ferro mini dangler. 3 AR mags in the back, speedloader and gubbins in the front compartment and either water or an addition pair of mags in the mini dangler. That's everything I'd consider 'essential' in such a small form factor, but as you say, a conversation for another time/thread. The Peacekeeper and Mayflower are the main two I'm aware of that seem to cover what you're after, the only other potential option being the Crye Airlite (or TMC clone of it). It's modular enough to set up for whatever you want and has without doubt the best harness... which also makes it the most secure and most comfortable. But all of these things all come at a cost, it's a bit of kit I wish I could recommend to literally everyone that plays the game but I'd consider the cost to be prohibative of me doing so.

Platatac Peacekeeper might be worth a look, but I genuinely think you’re on the hunt for something that doesn’t really tick the boxes you’re after. I think you’re right that you can carry far more than you’d ever need in the smersh, but I’d put the TMR down as a more ‘mid sized’ chest rig (so not entirely different in what you can carry versus something like the Peacekeeper). The main thing you seem to be missing is a ‘micro rig’, not to say I think you need one... but I think you’re already kinda covered for that middle ground rig with the TMR. Entirely open to being wrong, just my take from your initial post.

Can’t say I’ve ever got something directly from a wanted ad, granted wanted ads tend to be for very specific/rare items so tend to be a stab in the dark anyway. I did get a few messages from folks when I had a wanted listing for an MWS but decided not to go for any of them in the end. I’ve definitely seen others post wanted ads, and then the exact item/RIF they’re after gets listed shortly after... so perhaps they can function as a final nudge of ‘I don’t use this so I’ll list it because it’s worth something’ to would be sellers. The main ‘risk’ with wanted ads is to be wary of potential scammers. By openly saying what you want you’re putting all your cards on the table for someone who could try and pull a fast one... so that’s another reason that folks may opt for creating a listing rather than directly messaging the person asking. The wanted ads most commonly marked as complete tend to be for parts, and imagine that’s where they’re most effective. Most folks have bits boxes full of shite that is precisely what someone else is looking for.

I think the part that gives me the most anxiety is that I'm not sure how unlikely I think this 'I really hope that the buyers realise they’ve been had when their purchases arrive' is. We're talking about the same people that bought protective equipment from someone selling things on Facebook... and that's without considering the astonishing cost. I wouldn't dream of buying protective kit from anywhere other than verified stockists of well-known and correctly tested gear (and it genuinely blows my mind that there are folks that think this precaution is 'a bit OTT'), let alone fucking Facebook of all places. What folks consider adequate PPE for airsofting makes me uncomfortable at the best of times, but this is a whole other level.

Aye, very much been there done that. But there are a whole host of things which ultimately contribute to accuracy. The reason I tend to find bolties somewhat infuriating is you can get them shooting absolutely perfect, and then everytime you take them apart to do maintainence (and you should at the very least be properly cleaning the barrel after every outing imo) chances are it won't be as perfect as it was. Just the nature of the platform, everything needs to be well lubed and clean to get that consistency... but to ensure everything is well lubed and cleaned you have to take them apart alot. It's a weird vicious cycle, I'm sure many would echo the frustration of having your RIF shooting exactly as you want and knowing you need to tear it down at some point... and be forever be chasing 'how it was' 😅. Just looks like a bit of 'flash' from the moulding process, wouldn't be enough to disrupt anything imo... largely because it looks to be on the bottom edge of the piston cup. It's hard to say really, given they're made in batches and seem to iterate on the design/manufacturing of components for each run outside of general advice of what usually works it's difficult to provide much else. Given yours is from the most recent batch I'd say the best bet if none of the standard stuff seems to be working would be to jump into a SRS Facebook group and see what other owners of RIFs from the same batch have to say. They'll likely wind up asking exact what parts are in there, so brace yourself for the irritation of having to explain that it's irrelevant what hop chamber you're using because the leak seems to be from the cylinder/piston. I don't tend to advise anyone toward Facebook groups (outside of the Wolverine MTW Owners group because the folks in there are genuinely helpful regarding that platform), but I'm not sure how useful historical/general information on prior models of the SRS is at this point.

Can't say it's something I've heard before, granted it looks like they may have changed the design of the piston again. Only real way of testing to see if it's making much of a difference is to get a chrono out and see what the consistency is like. By my understanding the main reason air seals are seen as so important is largely down to consistency. The worse the air seal, the more variance there is in the amount air sending the BB down the barrel, and such the consistency of FPS/joules per shot is worse... though this is very much me piecing together why it's important, truthfully I've never really looked into why from anyone better informed than myself. (If this is incorrect please let me know, I'll happily edit it to prevent the spread of misinformation) If it's consistent when you're chrono'ing it then I suspect it's by design because across all the bolties I've used over the years it's not something I've ever experienced. Leaks have always been from the hop unit/where the nozzle meets the hop unit, a bit of lube on the inside of the cylinder and a bit of lube around the edge of the piston head has always ensured that's all air tight for me. Might be worth 'working' the piston head (assuming it's still the 'cup' design) just to loosen it up a bit. Just massage (for lack of a better word) the edges of the piston cup, if the piston cup is too stiff they may not be creating the proper seal against the cylinder. I remember this being an issue with some of the earlier WASP pistons so could well be a similar case here.