RonLancs
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Posts posted by RonLancs
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19 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:
rentals you can kind of forgive a bit.
it's when you get the experienced players pulling the same shenanigans that losing one's shit is on the cards.
Aye, there was one regular of whom the rentals were with. To be fair to him he seemed to play the game however the G36C’s and the combat machines were having none of it. Definitely put me off from going for a while. Back in the day of old (a year ago) that particular site would not have stood for such behaviour but they seemed to carry on *+ they appeared to be new staff as oppose to pre-COVID.
Just now, RonLancs said:Aye, there was one regular of whom the rentals were with. To be fair to him he seemed to play the game however the G36C’s and the combat machines were having none of it. Definitely put me off from going for a while. Back in the day of old (a year ago) that particular site would not have stood for such behaviour but they seemed to carry on *+ they appeared to be new staff as oppose to pre-COVID.
Oh there was even a full auto incident from one of them. Directly into a teammates inner thigh which didn’t go down well as you can imagine. -
My regular site. Unfortunately first time rentals aren’t taking hits, blind firing.. the usual for a rental however after the 2nd warning people usually get the message and play the game with some integrity. On this occasion unfortunately this was not the case.
For the first time I’ve had to rage quit due to the fact of me loosing my shit and nearly being one of those c**** who take it way too seriously.
It was the 2nd game... A true shame and a waste of 20£.
The Marshall's are doing what they can and have even called in for support from another site. I’m teetering on whether or not to go back there.
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11 hours ago, GearTech said:
Is the model your working on made of steel? I think the coke method only works on steel bodied AKs
Tis steel mate but I think the paints different. I’m happy with it now. Project finished.
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21 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:
To be fair I have fitted SHS nozzle (short) so maybe that’s the problem. I will Try the stock solution thank you.
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2 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:
if it shoots straight no point worrying what the barrel is meant to be.
stock wobble you can try a thin strip of rubber glued under the catch so that when locked it's wedging the stock into the catch.
That’s the thing A-dolf. The consistency isn’t there even after barrel thoroughly cleaned and new o ring on piston head. Was jw if anyone actually knew.
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Here she is. I know TG advertise the barrel to be 6.03 but can anyone confirm? Also, does anyone know a remedy for the stock wobble? I know it’s an AK blah blah but it’s got more wobble than I’d like.
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ICS BM9...
Had this for a while and bought it off a fellow AFUK member. All was well when I was plinking in my back yard however I’ve taken it out just today for a spot of target practice before Saturday’s game and on both mags it fires, misses a shot fires, misses a shot and then just sh*** itself by blowing all of the gas out of the barrel.
Had a look online prior to this and I couldn’t really find this specific issue.
Any help o you gas gurus out there?
Thanks,
Ron
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I’m done haha.
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But when I go to re-scuff there’ll be a different shade of black and silver?
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Eurgh this is so much effort... just thought I could scotch brite it all off but what a task... kudos to cyma on the strength of the paint.
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So I tried the coke method... it’s been sitting there for 2 or more hours and still nothing. Might have to use Nitro-Mors.
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Anyone got a solution for removing the original paint from the body other than the coke method shown above?
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22 minutes ago, Sniper780 said:
You may want to try Hammerite Satin Black Metal spray paint that replicate enamel paint the Soviets/Russian use on their AKs. As they only blued the type 3 AK 47, then switch to a glossy enamel paint for the AKM onwards because it was cheaper and quicker.
There is also Voron Original Soviet Weapon Finish but that is expensive and a bit more time consuming to apply.
Yea not gonna go mad on it just want it to have a heavily worn look to it but well maintained at the same time. I do like the Russian red furniture. Something like the below.
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7 minutes ago, EDcase said:
Its not too bad but yeah, the hard part of wearing is to know when to stop 😉
Could try bluing. You'll need different stuff for aluminium and steel but both are quite expensive.
Easiest and cheapest would be to spray it again.
Yea man, I just can’t stand the look of a pristine AK.. I was considering blueing and really bringing the read out on the hand guard. Definitely not gonna Krylon. I dunno why people rave about it.
Also, reckon I’d need to fully strip the original paint before re-spraying?
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13 hours ago, Speedbird_666 said:
Is the silver disc still behind the motor? If it's missing, the grub screw will be bearing down on the motor stator hole and not applying pressure to the back of the motor itself.
Turns out there was still a bit of China in the grub screw and I had to use force to pierce the Allen key through. All sorted.- Rogerborg and Speedbird_666
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18 minutes ago, Speedbird_666 said:
Is the silver disc still behind the motor? If it's missing, the grub screw will be bearing down on the motor stator hole and not applying pressure to the back of the motor itself.
Yea the disc is still there. She works fine but when I come to re-shim I’ll need to adjust motor height. I can’t seem to adjust the grub screw to it press against the disc. -
On 07/09/2020 at 18:25, Speedbird_666 said:
Yes - but not massively increased, the stock motor is quite torque-y (neo magnets). ROF will go up from 11ish to around 15RPS in full auto though. If you delete the fuse and solder on a deans connector, that will also help a bit.
I have also tried an SHS High Speed motor, and that was bit mental. 21RPS. But the fuse blew in minutes and the wiring, motor and LiPo got hotter than I was comfortable with - it was sucking down the amps.
Hey buddy, so adjusting motor height. I note that under the motor cage there’s a wee hole with a screw in it. I’ve tried multiple hex keys and unfortunately I can’t adjust the motor height. Any ideas?
Ron
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58 minutes ago, Lozart said:
In that case, yes a high torque motor will improve the response a bit which will improve once you put your chosen mosfet in. Just be aware though that the V3 trigger will always be a bit squishy by its very nature so don't expect the featherlite response you'd get with a Titan in an M4 for example.
hmmm I might get onto Charles at AE to create a trigger for me. -
1 hour ago, Lozart said:
Yes, but I'd stick a small mosfet into it so the motor can take advantage of all the current it needs. Mine had a Gate Pico wired in and stashed under the top cover. Worked a treat!
mm lots of sticking and slapping. The end result will be a warfet as mentioned previously above. I really thought I was an m4 man but when you nail those speed reloads with the AK mag in front of a rental.. something special. -
If I slapped a SHS high torque into her but kept the rest stock on paper that would give me increased trigger response?
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Mmm loving the little beast! Got some range on it too out of the box!
- Speedbird_666 and Rogerborg
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7 minutes ago, Shaydee said:
I only watch a few of Luke's videos, but boy would I like him to get a hold of one of these things when they inevitably shit the bed. Swear quota would go up a bit more I reckon.
Mmm indeedy! Imagine the froth .
First and Only - the Mill
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Indeed. I wouldn’t have even written a post today should it have been the normal, average day at the Mill. The only thing that would have been salty is the sweat in my stash.
I feel better now I’ve had a winge, nicotine and nursed my welts in spoons.