Airsoft-Ed

1.2 joules equates to roughly 360fps at the muzzle on a .2g bb. For a blowback pistol using green, to chrono that high is pretty unusual, I'm almost inclined to suggest trying another chrono. If your mate has a cheap one it could be bugged out. Did you fire multiple shots to get an average of 360/1.2J, or just the once? 'Cos if it was just a one off reading there's a chance it could just be wrong, or it might've chrono'd gas particles instead of the actual shot or something. I'd say to try and re-chrono it before thinking of doing anything else. There are a few sites that would allow 360fps though, my regular site have a hard limit of 368fps for full auto capable weapons and sidearms, anything higher than that up to a limit of 500fps has to be locked to semi auto or be bolt action, and comes with a minimum engagement range of 20m.

Do they take spring changes well though? People always say to just leave TMs alone, which has always been something that put me off buying one. Since they're all built to sub 300fps tolerances, I've always had it in my head that upping the power to something more standard would see the trigger response and rof drop below and acceptable level, and I can't be arsed to upgrade the motor and the gears on a gun that already cost around £500.

Quiet you.

Would be better if they made the front screw off somehow, the amount of disassembly required to get to the back of the gearbox is far from "quick".

I didn't realise there were any quick change spring V2 gearboxes. Surely you'd have to take the gearbox out anyway because the stock tube would be in the way?

I ended up getting into airsoft through the exact avenue you're travelling along right now. I had air pistols and rifles, I saw a YouTube video showing a WE gas M4 and I just had to have it, so I researched their availability in the UK, discovered airsoft as a means to get one, then went to play 3 games purely so I could buy one in the proper colours. Once I eventually got my UKARA registration sorted out and bought it, I realised that it was a terrible mistake. I didn't know what I was doing with it and the performance ended up getting gradually worse and worse until I'd spent over £1000 on it and given up on trying to make it work because I was inexperienced. Ended up trading it for an AEG M4 worth a fraction what I paid for the gas rifle. So I effectively flushed about £750 down the bog. Based on my experience, I cannot stress this enough - do not buy a gas gun as your window into airsofting, or even for plinking. If you buy one, it's more the feel of firing it, and the manipulation of the weapon controls that you buy one for. An AEG will outshoot a gas gun 100% of the time in pretty much every regard except perhaps range, and if you're used to air rifles, airsoft guns will seem like the most inaccurate thing imaginable in comparison. For plinking air guns are much better, airsoft guns are for shooting at people, air guns are for target shooting.

That's genius, might look into doing it with my Mk7

Banned as in, won't deal with you anymore. As well as restricting your access to the shop's Facebook page. I can only share their posts for example, not like or comment on them.

Little bit of a controversial topic... But today, Milspec Solutions actually told Phil Bucknal (who either still is, or until recently, was UKAPU's chairman), to "fuck off" over the phone, in the middle of sale negotiations, because he was calling on a mobile from his car and the signal was sketchy. Literally throwing a sale away and then permanently banning someone for having poor mobile reception is utterly ridiculous. I myself was banned from Milspec a few months ago because I was sent a pistol grip for my L85 and I didn't return it when I didn't need it... Bearing in mind, I told Milspec I didn't need it before he even sent it and that was the last contact I had with him right up to me PMing him to ask why I'd been banned on Facebook. So considering I'd said I didn't need the grip before it was even sent, but it got sent anyway, I assumed it must've been a good will gesture because I'm always hearing about how good Milspec's customer service is. But apparently I'd been emailed 4 times asking for it back, he had me on Facebook, he had my mobile number, but he just kept emailing me even though he never got a response... Either he never emailed me at all and just wanted to make a point about something, or my email account was sending all the messages to spam for some reason. Despite myself being banned, I continued recommending Milspec whenever I was asked about my L85, because I thought my banning might've just been an overreaction after a long day or something, but after hearing about what happened to Phil this morning? Milspec can jog on. Either way, when I tried to explain my side of the story I was deleted and told I was being removed "on principle". Well, by my own principle, based on my and Phil's experiences, I will not be recommending Milspec Solutions to anyone from this point on. If you want a gas gun specialist retailer, I would recommend Tactical Quartermaster instead. It makes me wonder though, has anyone else had bad experiences with Milspec? Because aside from myself and Phil, everyone seems to rave about them like they can do no wrong.

The lower is a bit more of a pain to get to pieces, the hammer mech comes out of the back in a block though, there's a pin through the grip around where the joint of your thumb sits that you need to punch out, and there's a screw at the back right of the frame once the slide's been removed. Once they're out the hammer mech comes out in one piece, but there's an actuator and a spring that you'll need to make sure you don't lose, they're both on the left side. You'll have to unhook the trigger arm too, but that's not too hard. After that there's the trigger to remove, along with the slide lock lever which has the most fiddly spring in the entire gun attached to it, as well as the mag release and the take down lever section. Though tbh, I'm not sure you'd actually need to totally remove everything for hydro dipping, would you? Surely it's only applied to the outside of the frame? I would've honestly expected you to just be able to send them the frame without actually bothering to remove anything from it, but I might well be wrong, I'm not really that sure how hydro dipping is actually done. There's a 4 part strip down guide on YouTube by LaZouche Customshop, it's for the TM one but they strip down in the exact same way, I followed that guide to learn to strip mine down to individual components. They're actually really simple once you know what you're doing.

No. Waste of time and money buying barrel and hop parts for the WE Glocks. Mine is stock and it's good for 40m at least with .25s, I can and do run it as a primary, the only thing making it harder to use at longer range is the fact that it's a pistol so it's harder to hold steady without a stock to brace it against anything. They can definitely take the TM base plates, but I'm not so sure about the first ones. Only the KWA/KSC Glocks are perfectly 1:1 with the real steel, the Marui and WE are slightly wider, so it's likely that any real steel parts won't fit. It's a doddle getting all the internals out of the slide, field strip it to get the barrel, inner barrel, recoil guide rod & spring out, then there's a single screw holding the rear sight on, which also slots through the entire blowback mech. Undo the screw and the sights come off, and the mech just drops out in a block. Couldn't be easier. Front sight also removes with a single screw if you want to take that off too. You can post it however you want, might even go as a medium sized parcel with Royal Mail if you just whack it in a jiffy bag. Some additional pointers; Get the WE mags, I actually think they're better than the TM ones, they have silent fill valves whereas the TM ones don't, from what I've been told. My mags are all WE and I've not had a single issue with any of them in the 18 or so months since I got it. Additionally, due to the metal construction it takes a bit more gas to get the mech cycling right and the WE mags have slightly higher flow valves than the TM ones, the gun actually feels pretty weak and puny using TM mags. The gas routers are also slightly different; TM mags still fit and work, but the WE mags perform better on all accounts. Holster ought to be good since it's for a Glock 21 so that makes up for the WE's wider frame. Only thing else I can think to say is that they're actually pretty hard wearing, the only visible wear on any internal parts on mine is on the hammer sear, and the part that's worn is the part that the trigger arm pushes against to release the hammer, so the amount of wear on that particular area is largely irrelevant; as long as when you pull the trigger, the hammer falls, it's not worn enough to be an issue, so you ought to get at least 18 months out of the internals because I've hardly gone easy on mine. Two of my mates have the G18 and both have admitted that auto rarely gets used in games, it's more a party piece for mag dumping at the end of the day, I'd just get the G17 personally, the G18 has an additional sear in the hammer mech which to me just seems like an additional thing that could wear out or break. For all the use you're going to get out of full auto I think it makes more sense to just conserve the life of the parts by sticking to semi, and if you're going to do that you might as well just buy one without auto in the first place.

I ended up building up my British Army loadout for two reasons. 1) I just don't think L85s look as good unless they're coupled with the proper kit. 2) Since I already had the gun, I thought that limiting myself to one avenue of gear - Just British stuff, instead of everything I like the look of - it might save me some pennies because I wouldn't just impulse buy everything I saw. Turns out I spent just as much, just instead of it being limited by only buying British stuff, I just ended up researching British stuff a lot more and having just as much stuff to pick at... =/ Fail strategy. What I would advise doing, is making a note of things that could help you out whilst you're playing, and then buying something to fulfil that requirement. For example, if you're hiding in a bush and you get spotted, you might want some camo to make you harder to see, or if you run out of ammo you might want to buy a pouch to carry a spare mag or two. You might buy some pyro and realise you have nowhere to actually put it where you can quickly and easily get it, so look for pouches to hold it. Once you've bought a molle rig of some description and outfitted it with pouches entirely based on what you feel you need, it'll start looking like a pretty legit loadout anyway. Doesn't have to cost you the world, and it doesn't have to all be bought over night. Just buy what you think will help, work out where best to mount it to yourself, and add to it and move it all around as required. Practicality comes first if you want to have fun. Trying to tailor your look after a special forces unit will probably see you carrying too much stuff and being too overburdened to really get about effectively or quickly because remember who you're playing against - guys wearing nothing but combats and a t-shirt, with a polymer gun, no rig, and a pair of high caps.

Also, just wanted to say, I laughed so hard at this xD

7 pages? What the balls? I'm too tired to read it all through, but I personally would've taken the hit and if I had been in the sniper's position I would've kept my mouth shut until you were out of the MED, and then shot you lol. I think the sniper probably learned that the hard way in this instance. You didn't break any rules though, so no harm done. He took it on the chin like a champ, you felt a little guilty about it afterwards, fair's fair.

It can't have failed as hard as the XB1 announcement last year lol.

If you're going to go CO2, get something that can also take green gas as well. Like a WE Glock, as an off-the-top-of-my-head example. Guns that are just CO2 tend not to get a lot of parts support, the G&G Extreme 45, those cheap Palco Firepower USP-a-likes; struggling to think of any more lol, but trust me, it's easier to get parts for green gas pistols. Getting a green gas pistol that can use CO2 is generally the way forward.

That's actually become doctrine in the military now, your body armour is most effective if it's facing the incoming fire directly, as you have more on your front and back than your sides.

Holy. Fucking. Shit. That looks so much better than I thought it was going to.

I often rest the very bottom of my stock very near the top of my shoulder, it's a pain to shoulder the full stock on my full shoulder with an Osprey on, and when no one else is going to the effort of doing it properly either, it just seems like a disadvantage. Brings the sights to your head, instead of head to the sights, easier, faster, more comfortable; the only reason people don't do that with real steel is precisely because of the recoil, if real guns didn't recoil, then all these "shooting stances" would be totally different. I've never seen anyone hold anything like a bazooka though, not ever. When I show my guns to family members they tend to tuck the stock under their arm pit and then try to become on-the-spot contortionists to get down the sights, or they'll do this really weird thing where they lean back a stupid amount and hold the gun out in front of them, as if the sights only work from 3ft away lol. The guns have no recoil and we're playing a game though... Who cares? Unless it's dark looking down the side of the gun is often just as easy as sighting in, sometimes easier because you can see the immediate effects of the hop better. I'd expect everyone to act accordingly at a milsim even though, it wouldn't be much of a military simulation if no one was doing anything the correct, real life way.

Sounds awesome, and the F&O Midlands guys aren't half as bad as Jamie's crew. Shame it's so far away =[

Worse, no extended mags and the range and accuracy limitations feel a lot worse. It's also imo even harder to manage the recoil, and the two shot tap firing mechanic doesn't work anymore. The saving grace is that you have a wider variety of attachments to help controllability, but they're not really enough because you can't have a barrel attachment due to it being silenced permanently. I think on the whole BF4 is an easier game to play, the guns on the whole are far easier to control, they all seem to perform significantly better at range compared to BF3 (with a few exceptions) and the biggest bonus for me is that now I've got a PS4, my analogue sticks allow me to actually stand still! My old 360 controllers were so fucked that I'd constantly be strafing very slowly in whatever direction I was last moving in - which ruins your accuracy. (That's another BF mechanic actually, moving increases your firing spread, for the best accuracy, stand still) I thought that going from 12 v 12 on the 360, to 32 v 32 on the PS4 would really screw me over with regard to my stats, but I think it's actually easier with more people lol. My overall k/d ratio is 2.9 on BF4 vs the 2.5 or so on BF3, and my score per minute on BF4 is more or less double what it was on BF3. I'm also within 10 ranks of the max rank on BF4, after around 400 hours play, compared to the 1400 hours it took me on BF3 to get within 5 ranks of the max. But then again, I could have better stats on BF4 because I played BF3 so much, since a lot of the game mechanics are largely comparable, if not exactly the same.

I don't like unrealistically high rof either, but if you want your gun to be snappy and responsive on semi-auto as well then you're going to end up with it shooting over 20 rounds a second for it to not feel sluggish. That's what I love about gas guns, instant trigger response without the rof needing to be moronically high on full auto. As for this SCAR in question though, I'm betting there's all sorts of air seal issues for it to be shooting at 190, there's no way in hell anyone would downgrade something that low, there's no call for it whatsoever. I'd check the hop, the piston and the cylinder head, it's possible all the seals are shagged, there could potentially by piston wear too, making it release early. Or perhaps the cylinder is ported and it was put in backwards...

It doesn't take that long to get to rank 45 though, I forgot there even were those lower ranks lol. BF3 technically has 145 ranks, but once you get to 46 to starts from 1 again... If I remember right. It's once you break rank 45 that it starts taking a long time to grind for things. The AS VAL is a weapon for the pro level player though, I found it near impossible to get along with in multiplayer. In campaign it's a piece of piss to kill people, it doesn't take much ammo at all, but in multiplayer you'll have to use a lot more ammo. The VAL has poor range and a very very slow bullet speed, so it's hard to lead targets, hard to even hit them at range, and until you unlock extended mags for it the rof is so high that you die mid reload a lot. Key to using it is tap firing, the first two shots are dead nuts accurate, so just tap tap tap 2 shots at a time and it's actually pretty rapey. If you hold the trigger down for extended bursts then I just always found it too hard to use because of the recoil. Watch X-Factor Gaming on YouTube, he's a bit good, he loved the VAL in BF3. It's changed a lot for BF4 though.

There isn't really a definitive line you can cross in order to say you're good at the game; there are a lot of ways to play it. Someone could be a totally mindless retard but have exceptionally good reflexes and just run about like a headless chicken and manage to come out on top (I fucking hate those people). I put over 1400 hours into BF3 by the time BF4 released and due to my play style I still wasn't even at the max rank. I'd say it'll take you a good hundred hours or more to really get to grips with it. I'm still trying to break bad habits even now. When someone catches me unawares I tend to strafe instead of turn to try to get the crosshairs on people, often putting me in a more shit position. Though that's probably easier to do on console than on PC, where you movement and aiming controls are very significantly different. I'm also still teaching myself to cancel reloads by switching weapons and back again. So often I die in a reload when I didn't even really need to go for one. Getting over stuff like that is the hardest part of the game, knowing where you need to be and what you need to do in order to win is easy, and if everything I plan to do, goes to plan, then I can pretty consistently score in the top 3. It's when people aren't where you expect them that fucks you over lol.