Skara

nooooooo all my senseless ramblings!!

Well it's up to the server owner/mod, there are ways to make locked threads with guides and stuff like this, have threads dedicated to pictures/videos and anything in between. I'd stay away from huge servers like Airsoft International, that place is an absolute shithole and everyone there is mega entitled.. I prefer smaller servers, where new people are invited to (can't publicly join) and where discussions are actually enjoyable and knowledge is actually shared.

Kit for last weekend's National Finals (more, probably, on the horror story thread). SOD Gear combat shirt in A-Tacs iX; ClawGear Operator Pants in RG; LaSportiva Ultra Raptor II Leather-GTX; Mayflower UV Gen IV rig in RG; FRV Tailoring belt; Source Commander pack in Multicam. Gun is my carbon fibre wanker (eeh, kinda, 33 rps on a 7.4v) dsg with my wanker thermal, weather was actually perfect for this, cold and cloudy with a slight drizzle towards the end. Running 0.28s

Good times, when trees spoke Vietnamese

A bit late to the pary, but Lonex flash mags are your best bet. I recently replaced the ones i bought in 2016, they're still working after almost 10 years of absolute neglect (leaving them with springs compressed for weeks, they're rusty to all fuck) but never skipped a beat. 360 round capacity per mag, so two mags will be plenty. Battle rattle is a thing only if doing gymnastics while playing, otherwise they will only rattle if almost completely empty, and only if you REALLY shake the gun. I pick metal mags over plastic because they're thinner and fit all the pouches, whereas polymers are thicker and ribbed (for your pleasure) and for example don't fit my genuine mayflower gen 4.

Yes, as long as it isn't some stupid "high speed" motor. By high speed I mean those 40k+ neodymium motors, they're overly expensive for what they are and very limiting in upgrade routes. Usually it's the opposite, especially when a weak motor is trying to pull a somewhat stiff spring. Care to take a video of the issue?

Same, I still have it (old version, silver with red wheel) and it wouldn't fit any of the AEGs I had at the time... Be careful when picking hop units, due to tolerances and shit you may need a different nozzle or to make a few spacers.

Stock piston? I'd check for damage around the back of the piston body, i suspect what happens is that the piston jams itself onto the spring guide, or that the spring somehow stretches itself over the spring guide and subsequently jams the piston. I've seen this happen a couple of times and already on Dboys guns (same exact internals as specna, just red plastics instead of blue).. A few different ways to solve it, some involve a bit more labour and parts changes but permanently removes the issue (look up short stroking).

11.1v for me, stock performance is anaemic at best. I say do NOT get the pdw stock version, it's heavy and has no advantage over a regular stock except for looks. Get the regular and swap the stock for a stubby fixed one, so you can run whatever battery you want.

It was referred to the OP, who happens to have "lct ak105" written on his profile.. He could also source another barrel and have the m14 ccw thread cut on the existing 24mm

The 24mm CW thread on the Cyma AKSU is just a ring that threads onto the barrel's actual 14mm ccw thread. Here's mine with different muzzle devices, all 14mm ccw Although I see you have an LCT, in that case I don't think yours can accept 14mm ccw stuff natively...

Got a notification from tridos so bought a few things: 1x NaMech Flux trigger; 1x Mk23 TDC adjustment key (that threads into the LAM unit hole on the trigger guard); 2x AAP upper lock buttons in red; 1x AAP red mag release + stronger spring kit; 1x HPA threaded cap; 4x UV-5R protective kits for me and my mates. Now I'm eyeing up the Source Commander 10L backpack, saw it last week at a tournament and I liked it a lot.

Out of luck, all the 90° triggers I've seen for VSRs run about €100 give or take. Springer Custom has a very neat "budget" trigger, on the other end of the spectrum Sodium (NA-Mech) makes a supposedly god tier magnetic trigger that isn't that much more expensive than other offerings (bought one yesterday, paid €140 for it, will arrive Monday/Tuesday). You may want to look at 2nd hand sales, especially AAC T10/T11 owners, those triggers could be obtained for not much and still hold up to some abuse (rated to M120 from factory, but given how much my 1J T11 creeps, you can easily reach 2J on a M120 spring)

If going 16:1 or 12:1 I would suggest to use helical gears. The reason is that 16/12 spurs have a weird tooth profile that tends to wear bevel gears much faster than 18/13 ratio gears, while helicals have dedicated bevel/spur gears for those particular ratios. My Cyma Ak runs on: BOB (box o' bits) 13:1 gearset, short stroked by 4 on release; FPS high speed delayer; FPS tappet plate, modified to set the timing; Solink 35k Advanced Brushless motor (unibearing, so no arl needed); Unmarked spring, probably a M100/M110 to stay below 1J; Perun V3 Hybrid + Clicker; Lonex gearbox shell + motor cage; FPS 8mm solid bushings; FPS piston body, metal rack; FPS POM piston head; FPS alu cylinder head (I generally prefer plastic cylinder heads, this is just for testing); FPS cylinder (3/4 hole); FPS 19.70 POM nozzle; Begadi Nebo hop unit; Maple Leaf Super Macaron 70°; Prometheus 247x6.05 barrel; This setup gives me 24/25ish RPS on a 7,4v and just about 35/36 on 11.1, very snappy and somewhat "quiet". p.s. my barrel is shorter than the stock, I have removed the typical aksu flash hider and adapter. Stock barrel length is roughly 290/300mm iirc. Keep in mind that these lists are a rough guideline, the wonderful world of airsoft tolerances may result in your parts not fitting together like mine or someone else's did.

"nah mate, I'm good with guns, don't need more" - a blatant liar, circa 2025