Skara

AEG rubbers and barrels. These are pretty much the only aftermarket parts available along with the short axle motor, the rest is proprietary.

Yup, WellPro pumped out a few versions, some with increased mag capacity (from 1200 to 2800 rounds), longer barrels, different grips and in one photo there seems to be a retractable stock. Since we're here: I ordered some slightly wider o-rings (16.5mm ID x 2mm thickness against the stock 16x2 ones)to attempt to fix the air seal. I'm now looking at hop rubbers, usually I'd go with maple leaf but a) there's 5 and b) I only run 0.25s in this so ML is overkill, I don't need mega accuracy but I would like a few more metres of range to be on par with a half decent non r-hopped AEG. suggestions?

Snap it off with a pair of pliers, doesn't get easier than that.

Your system draws a lot of current then. I run 7,4v 1450mAh 30c batteries in my M4s and my average BB consumption per game day is about 2000 (say 5/6 fully depleted Lonex Flash Mags). The battery tester I use says that with the above conditions I get my battery from 99/98% charge down to 30ish, now I don't know that the percentage refers to, but all things considered I think my builds are at okay efficiency.. All this in full auto for the most part. Also keep in mind that semi auto fire draws way more than full auto, the current required to get the motor going is much higher than the current needed to keep the motor going once it's already spinning. It's not hard to imagine that thirsty motor + semi spam will deplete an average sized battery in a short time, but 500 shots is definitely a sign that something needs addressed in your gun. p.s. I'm confident I have butchered every electrical term and principle with this comment, sorry, I build houses and survey the land, not an electrician/electrical engineer

After 6ish years of use, my Crispi Boots started to fall apart, they became ultra rigid, lost all the grip, can't be resoled.. Gore-Tex membrane is still okay but they're not suitable for my needs anymore. So I bought these La Sportiva ones, Ultra Raptor II model: Hopefully they'll be comfortable and last a long time

My Crispi boots are giving up after 4 years of use, sole has become rock hard which is disappointing as I can't resole them without sending them back to the manufacturer, so I have decided to replace them with these: https://www.lasportiva.com/it/ultra-raptor-ii-mid-leather-gtx-uomo-marrone-34j805811 I *may* have fucked up the sizing as I may need the wide toe box version, but thankfully changing size shouldn't take too long.

Big necro Got tired of taking my Fiesta where it's not supposed to go, so I bought this two months ago: 1999 Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5. (I still love and use the Fiesta, just a bit less now)

A bit late, but it could be the trigger board or the harness that connects it to the etu++ G&G units aren't known for their reliability.

All these well maintained and well thought pistols.... And then there's me, doing silly things. There is a pistol only objective in next weekend's 27h event and I figured out I'd put together something that would still give me an optic to look through but at the same time comply with the "pistol" type of RIF.. Could have used my SMG'd AAP but the organizers specified that it cannot have a body kit nor a stock. Could have also used the TM G17 with its 6 seconds mount but I don't trust the AA mags as they tend to make the gun light strike at random. It looks front heavy and it is front heavy, I thought it'd help with eliminating whatever little recoil this thing has to begin with

Nope, massive over spin if I do.

Took the ak out for a spin today. Performed really well except for: Hop up, I need to slightly shave the rubber piece between the arm and tensioner as it was overhopping 0.32s without any hop applied; Mags, back then I had bought a few Cyma 5.56 flash mags, some fed flawlessly, others didn't feed at all; Stock, as much as I like the looks of the triangle, I think I will replace it with something else to give me room for adjustment (a touch too long length of pull for my liking). Game wise... Let's just not talk about it 😔 mags being iffy made me reluctant to push and play as I usually do. Or maybe I just had a bad day, sometimes it happens.

Yeah unfortunately I didn't take a picture when I took the box apart, all the bushings stick out inside the gearbox by 1/1.5 millimeters. No side to side movement, they're solid in there. But anyway, I think I managed to fix the mag issue, I was using the E&L magwell spacer because I thought it was better than the cyma one, big mistake. Cyma spacer in, went through a full cyma flash mag without skipping a beat. So next step is to play with it (tomorrow) and then take it apart to replace bushings and maybe throw a set of 13:1s in there.

No rof reduction, 20% ab, then irrelevant stuff like trigger sensitivity and no battery warning (warhead takes care of that), no precocking nor any other bollocks going on. I'm using the stock cyma solid bushings (I believe they're 7mm), that I do not really like but currently I am just testing things out, I will replace them with better quality ones once I have everything sorted (along with a set of 13:1s). Also in the gearbox there are currently 3 shims because that's all the bushings allow me to use. Overall it's decently shimmed with very little drag It is a couple of BBs per second faster than a bone stock gun, I say it's okay considering that a stock motor is 30ish-k RPM on 11.1s.

Tech question for the AK gods: Cyma shell and motor cage. 18:1 gears, 4 teeth short stroked from the pickup side. FPS/guarder/Slong compression parts. Warhead 36k, Perun Hybrid, shs m100 spring. 99.something m/s on 0.2s which is on the money for my limit. Here come the questions: 7.4v 1450mAh 30c nets me 14 RPS. 11.1v 1200mAh 15c nets me 20/21. Seems a bit low? 65% efficiency? Little drag on the gears, no drag on piston nor tappet plate. Motor height is set. Also, have you ever experienced having to pull mags towards the gearbox to make them feed? All my mags have 2ish millimetres of play at the back, I was thinking of either replacing the mag release or bodging a spacer for it.

To achieve optimal results you will have to fuck around with voluming For a bodge, I guess slap the supplied 120 spring in there and give it a go. Won't be pretty, but again it's a bodge. I do recommend you do things correctly, it'll preserve your internals and up the overall performance of the gun. Specna gearboxes aren't the strongest so correct voluming will avoid premature breakages (as of now the piston impacts when the BB has long left the barrel, which means that it'll dump its whole energy onto the cylinder head, which in turn transfers it to the front of the gearbox). You could also knock a few teeth off the sector to bleed some extra air volume.