Skara

11.1v for me, stock performance is anaemic at best. I say do NOT get the pdw stock version, it's heavy and has no advantage over a regular stock except for looks. Get the regular and swap the stock for a stubby fixed one, so you can run whatever battery you want.

It was referred to the OP, who happens to have "lct ak105" written on his profile.. He could also source another barrel and have the m14 ccw thread cut on the existing 24mm

The 24mm CW thread on the Cyma AKSU is just a ring that threads onto the barrel's actual 14mm ccw thread. Here's mine with different muzzle devices, all 14mm ccw Although I see you have an LCT, in that case I don't think yours can accept 14mm ccw stuff natively...

Got a notification from tridos so bought a few things: 1x NaMech Flux trigger; 1x Mk23 TDC adjustment key (that threads into the LAM unit hole on the trigger guard); 2x AAP upper lock buttons in red; 1x AAP red mag release + stronger spring kit; 1x HPA threaded cap; 4x UV-5R protective kits for me and my mates. Now I'm eyeing up the Source Commander 10L backpack, saw it last week at a tournament and I liked it a lot.

Out of luck, all the 90° triggers I've seen for VSRs run about €100 give or take. Springer Custom has a very neat "budget" trigger, on the other end of the spectrum Sodium (NA-Mech) makes a supposedly god tier magnetic trigger that isn't that much more expensive than other offerings (bought one yesterday, paid €140 for it, will arrive Monday/Tuesday). You may want to look at 2nd hand sales, especially AAC T10/T11 owners, those triggers could be obtained for not much and still hold up to some abuse (rated to M120 from factory, but given how much my 1J T11 creeps, you can easily reach 2J on a M120 spring)

If going 16:1 or 12:1 I would suggest to use helical gears. The reason is that 16/12 spurs have a weird tooth profile that tends to wear bevel gears much faster than 18/13 ratio gears, while helicals have dedicated bevel/spur gears for those particular ratios. My Cyma Ak runs on: BOB (box o' bits) 13:1 gearset, short stroked by 4 on release; FPS high speed delayer; FPS tappet plate, modified to set the timing; Solink 35k Advanced Brushless motor (unibearing, so no arl needed); Unmarked spring, probably a M100/M110 to stay below 1J; Perun V3 Hybrid + Clicker; Lonex gearbox shell + motor cage; FPS 8mm solid bushings; FPS piston body, metal rack; FPS POM piston head; FPS alu cylinder head (I generally prefer plastic cylinder heads, this is just for testing); FPS cylinder (3/4 hole); FPS 19.70 POM nozzle; Begadi Nebo hop unit; Maple Leaf Super Macaron 70°; Prometheus 247x6.05 barrel; This setup gives me 24/25ish RPS on a 7,4v and just about 35/36 on 11.1, very snappy and somewhat "quiet". p.s. my barrel is shorter than the stock, I have removed the typical aksu flash hider and adapter. Stock barrel length is roughly 290/300mm iirc. Keep in mind that these lists are a rough guideline, the wonderful world of airsoft tolerances may result in your parts not fitting together like mine or someone else's did.

"nah mate, I'm good with guns, don't need more" - a blatant liar, circa 2025

That's the normal mechanical trigger operation, experienced the same "issue" in our rental guns. What I believe happens is that by pulling the trigger softly and slowly, the gun cycles but the cutoff lever cannot release the trigger trolley, effectively letting off more than one shot per pull, whereas a decise and firm trigger pull will make sure the COL engages the trigger trolley properly.

https://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/dsg-semi-auto-question.167805/page-2?nested_view=1&sortby=oldest Read this again please, you even commented on it. Should also apply to the startup beeping.

Use those £100 to do the above and enjoy your ARP-9!

Are the wires thick and bendy or are they thin and rigid?

G&G ETU moment. Get rid of it, install a nice Perun Hybrid or Jefftron Scylla, profit. Throw in a Perun Speeder if that's your jam, or a Clicker if you want a less speedy boi trigger feel. While you're at it, have the bushings, nozzle and piston replaced. Check air seal and replace piston head o-ring if necessary. Fuck off the stock G&G hop rubber and go for a maple leaf.

256x192 is something I would avoid. Bare minimum should be 384x288, nowadays they can be obtained for not THAT much coin. Drop the wifi, range finder and bullet drop bollocks, change the base magnification to 2x instead of 3.56x, have the thing use an ACOG mount instead of the weird ass rail most thermals come with, include a glass protector of some sort. Even if the overall price rises to 1k, it's still going to be competitive.

If you can find them, La Sportiva Ultra Raptor II. I have the leather version and man, the most comfortable boots i have ever worn. Plus they're stupid light. Only downside is the price, they're not (too) cheap at €200ish.

Oh yes, by all means use it as a starter and feel free to bash it around! Unfortunately it's not a matter of IF, but a matter of WHEN it will break (just like everything in Airsoft tbf), so when it happens try and have some disposable cash available for something that can be upgraded down the road. Remember to ask around for advice, even to people on the field. This applies to guns and gear too!