Skara

- Invader Gear short sleeve combat shirt in a-tacs fg - 5KU (i know, it's shit) PT6 something AR stock adapter for my Cyma AK - Bit kit for my leatherman wave+ (not for Airsoft, it was on discount and couldn't let it go) Next will be a helikon 2 piece belt for work, so i can strap some pouches on it.

We're talking silly long barrels though, 400mm + Your average 360mm-and-below barreled AEG can take some short stroking. My 7" SSG is short stroked by 4 teeth and I'm pretty sure I can knock five more off without worrying in the slightest about running into voluming issues.

Varying levels of QC. Mostly depends on how much profit the brand wants on their BBs. I've seen it with a "local" brand, they were cheap and good at first, then lost the cheap part and now lost the good part as well, to the point I'd rather overpay for G&G bbs instead. A true shame that warhead decided to fuck UK users like this, after all they were a key part of development and marketing in general (Luke pushed them real hard before Solink/T238 took over)

Ugliest Ak ever. Lonex gearbox shell + Lonex motor cage Perun Hybrid + clicker Solink 35k Advanced motor (unibearing) 13:1 gearset short stroked by 4 on release Random SHS spring (low powered at 0.88J, but still has silly range) FPS compression parts Begadi Nebo hop unit Maple Leaf 70° Super Macaron Prometheus 6.05x247 brass inner barrel Oddly quiet, does 24 rps on a 7.4v and about 36 on a 11.1v Stock triangle buttstock is too long for my short arms so I'm considering heresy with a M4 buffer tube adapter, or maybe a zenitco style adjustable stock.

Does the sector gear properly activate the cut-off lever? Is there enough contact?

Sad day... The Lonex flash magazines i used almost every single game day and tournament since 2016 finally died.. Today i broke three out of the four survivors... Fixing them is not worth it so i ordered a box of 5, hopefully they'll last just as long. Games went well, 9 people on the field, fun was had, dsg sniping was on point and got to test an arm mounted map pouch before the upcoming 27h game in two weeks (spoiler alert: it's a useful torture device).

Worst case it's a reshim and slight modification to the pistol grip (or a new pistol grip altogether) to achieve a proper engagement angle.

Very odd.. Do you happen to have an amp meter you could plug to check the power consumption? My experience with 22tpa motors is limited to the good ol' ZCI one (bought from Pete when Brexit wasn't a thing) and it didn't pull more than 13 amps in full auto on a 7 tooth DSG. on 13:1s it pulled 12 amps and no sign of overheating even after full mags spammed in semi.

Nah, piston has no part in this. The nozzle resting position is set by the position of the sector gear after a shot, the position of the tappet cam, the dimensions and shape of the delayer if present and the shape of the tappet plate. All my guns have the nozzle fully forward when in their resting positions, others have it fully retracted, most guns have it somewhere in between.

Phone mics for some reason like to enhance high pitch noises, but overall it looks like it's a little too tight.

When shimming the sector gear you will need to take into account what components it interacts with: On one side you have the spur gear, on the other side you have the tappet plate and on top you have the piston rack. Spur gear interaction is easy, shim the sector low enough to have a tiny gap between the upper flat side of the spur and lower flat side of the sector. Rack is also easy, as most piston racks allow for plenty of movement anyway. Tappet plate is where it gets tricky. At first, have the gearbox with just the tappet plate installed, close it and check if the plate moves freely, if not the plate needs slight trimming. Then open the gearbox, install the shimmed sector gear and close again with the tappet plate. Tappet plate should be able to still move freely while the sector gear is in there, also try to rotate the sector gear as if it was actually cycling the piston and check for binding. Should there be rubbing, you will need to lower the sector gear. I recommend using 0.15mm shims along with 0.1/0.2s because you get an extra level of adjustment.

As a non native english speaker (more like I can read and write okay, but when I open my mouth I sound like a demented australopithecus), it has always puzzled me how easily y'all can fuck those up....

Just make sure you get the pinion/bevel meshing right, as most of the gear noise comes from those two.. Having good meshing also ensures that the energy transfer from the motor to the rest of the gearset is as smooth and less violent as possible. At the same time do not shim the sector gear too high in an attempt to get the most contact surface between teeth, it's a common mistake that leads to the tappet plate rubbing and binding against the sector and that is bad for air seal and in general tappet plate longevity.

13:1 for me. Any 22tpa motor can pull pretty silly springs without any issues, pulling 13:1s at UK powers won't strain them in any way possible unless you get a lemon motor, but if you're buying from @ak2m4I'm sure he'll provide excellent service should anything happen. For reference, at 0.99J a 22tpa + 13:1 setup powered by a 11.1v will produce around 30 rps and a VERY snappy semi, on 7.4v performance will be similar to a stock gun on 11.1 (so 20ish rps). 22tpa + 18:1 ratio is going to be painfully slow and it'll feel like you just wasted money. Also your X-ASR will be fine.. It's not the greatest electronic unit out there, but it is "free" (read already included with the gun) so use it and replace with a better ETU once it breaks.

Keep in mind that past a certain bb threshold those mags really take a toll on AEG nozzles. ALL of them, some brands more than others but it's still an issue.